Gargarin's Groove** HVS 5a
[Chris Smith on top section, 3 kb]13m. Steep and exhilarating. Move right from the crack to access the hanging groove which is followed with interest. © ROCKFAX
uses common start with Christmas Tree Arete

Photo: Chris Smith on top section © David Cowley
View all 4 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 270 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Tried to lead but bottled out of the final move. Toproped clean after lunch
sarah hawker - TR - 23/Nov/14 with bob

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Oct/14

andrew sandercock - 2nd rpt - 18/Oct/14 with andy lole

MightyStew - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/14

jev - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/14 with HWUMC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/14

sebbi30 - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/14

Sara - 2nd - 18/Oct/14 with MightyStew

cpforbes - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Fraser McLelan

FraserMcClennan - 2nd - 28/Sep/14

Klingon - Lead - 21/Sep/14 with Andy, Dave

Dervey - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/14 with Rich

Fiona Reid - 2nd - 16/Aug/14 with Alison

abbeywall - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Fiona

TizzyA - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Stephen, Jude

barney_edin - Lead - 16/Aug/14 with Tizzy, Jude

Steep and fun!
Jude - TR O/S - 16/Aug/14 with barney_edin, TizzyA

benchwarmer - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Jamie

Susan lead vdiff and I took the harder finish.
yehti - 2nd - 15/Aug/14 with Susan Young

Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14

dakidunn - 2nd - 03/Jul/14 with Gabe Oliver

kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Emma Reynolds

Emma Reynolds - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Ky Aizawa

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jun/14

robertmichaeladams - 2nd - 07/Jun/14 with Chris Down

Adamski1986 - Lead - 05/Jun/14 with Stuart Bennett

Climbed with JM.
carlh - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/14

redshapedfriday - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with tom anderson

Elsier - 2nd - 18/May/14 with Adrian

Excellent finish.
salix - 2nd - 14/May/14 with Aaron

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/14

Sean Bell - Lead - 02/May/14 with Justyna

jazzyjackson - Lead - 18/Apr/14 with stuart

stugreen75 - 2nd rpt - 18/Apr/14 with Jase

PittPauly - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/14 with Gordon McAllan

JonnoP - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Malcolm, Zoe S

oliverk - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/14 with Pam

Woodiee - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/14 with Tom Pitchforth

Tim Rodgers - Lead - 16/Mar/14 with Mark Anstiss

radioshed - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with James Priestly

radioshed - Lead - 08/Mar/14

watson.b - Lead dnf - 01/Mar/14 with Stu Bennett

Klingon - Lead - 22/Feb/14 with Nimble

Adamski1986 - 2nd - 09/Feb/14 with Richard Gage

Klingon - Lead - 09/Feb/14 with Nimble

chris smith - Lead dog - 2014 with Malcolm watson

stub1990 - 2nd - 2014 with Adam Gregg

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Oct/13

mot1 - Lead β - 05/Oct/13 with shanala

Hidden - 31/Aug/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 30/Aug/13

EalCapitan - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Andrew Young

andrewyoung99 - Lead - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13

Did proper more direct line over bulge this time.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/13 with Ben Pearce

dakidunn - Lead - 18/Jul/13 with Ian Hope

IanHope - 2nd - 18/Jul/13 with mark dunn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13

NaomiHart - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Nige

Klingon - Lead - 12/May/13 with Nimble

Richard Fletcher - Lead rpt - 01/May/13 with Tom Hopper

oliverk - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/13 with Tim Clarke

dakidunn - TR - 02/Mar/13 with Ian Hope

IanHope - TR O/S - 02/Mar/13 with mark dunn, John L

Simnel - TR - 02/Mar/13 with Ian, Mark

tom.e - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/13 with Clare Muir

Klingon - Lead - 18/Nov/12 with Nimble

gibbermonkey - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead β - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12

Tim Rodgers - 2nd - 15/Sep/12 with David Forster

Mark Bull - 2nd - 12/Sep/12 with Mike

Fiona Reid - 2nd - 09/Sep/12 with Mike

prog99 - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/12 with Fiona

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Sep/12

Mark Bull - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Mike

Adrianw - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/12 with Sarah Follmann

Fun finish
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead - 29/Jul/12 with Andy Night

Klingon - Lead - 13/Jul/12 with Nimble

mwatson - Solo O/S - 08/Jul/12

Jake Young - Solo O/S - 08/Jul/12

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 08/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/12

welchy29 - May/12

Ed's lead
sarah hawker - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Ed (Malta), Neil Morbey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/12

Hidden - 09/Apr/12

malteserEd - Lead - Apr/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/12

dakidunn - 2nd - 16/Mar/12 with Matt Poole

Simnel - 2nd - 16/Mar/12 with Matt, Mark

Matt Poole - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/12 with John Lambert, Mark Dunn

ukinio - 12/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd β - 11/Mar/12

andybroadway - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Brian Whitworth

Want to lead this next time
y2keable - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with John

aleckirby - 2nd O/S - 13/Jan/12

Ben lad - 2012 with The Wallace

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11

Heike - 22/Oct/11 with Brian

Richard Fletcher - TR O/S - 21/Oct/11 with Aaron Robson

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

daWalt - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Lisa

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

Failed HVS top out again. Missing something.
Klingon - Lead rpt - 23/Sep/11 with Nimble

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11

JRae - Solo - 10/Sep/11

Didn't do final mantle. Wimp! Couldn't find hold so went left onto arete.
Klingon - Lead rpt - 04/Sep/11 with Nimble

top route, looks improbable, thin holds.
mav - Lead - 29/Aug/11 with Ashley

Hidden - TR rpt - 30/Jul/11

Snap - TR O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Rab

Hidden - Solo - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - Jul/11

Nice moves at the top.Love this wee bit of the crag
Sean Bell - Lead - 25/Jun/11 with Sophie

sophiecb - 2nd - 25/Jun/11 with Sean

rgd1977 - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/11

beckybray1 - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/11

Adamski1986 - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Richard Gage

iceicebaby - 2nd O/S - 28/May/11 with Sam Wood

Hidden - 2nd - 21/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

el cholo - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Apr/11

HeatReactor - 2nd β - 08/Apr/11

andrew sandercock - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/11 with Dave Sandercock

Favourite route done in months. Loved it.
MDowson - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Jonathon Powell

Had to hand the gear near top to retrieve stubborn nut.
Klingon - 2nd - 02/Apr/11 with Albert

pete87abs - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Richard Clarke

Nice route, bit pumpy, helmet fell off.
adamjc13 - 2nd - 21/Mar/11 with Paolo Thige

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

lisafer - 2011

Never too hard, probably quite easy for HVS if you know what is coming.
fall-line - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/10 with Khalid Abdulla, Mark Hammonds

markhammonds - 2nd β - 13/Nov/10 with Donald Slater

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/10

nice.
sneaks - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with janey

Harry Holmes - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Adam Russel, Claire Muir

rick cawthra - Lead - 10/Aug/10

Klingon - 2nd - 04/Aug/10 with John

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - 01/Aug/10

Cacyn - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/10 with John Jackson

Lawrie Brand - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Ian smith, John Chivall

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Jul/10

Shaun Parkin - Lead - Jul/10

mr_nsglover - Lead O/S - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Not as bad as it looks.
Richard Alderton - 2nd - 05/Jun/10 with Sean

alisonsmigova - 2nd - 30/May/10

Fiona Reid - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Mike

prog99 - 2nd - 22/May/10 with Fiona

Hidden - 2nd - 19/May/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 08/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/10

Still v.hungover
KMoeckell - 2nd - 08/May/10 with Tom Kingston

make - 2nd - 26/Apr/10

j0shwyatt000 - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

hawkins321 - 2nd β - 10/Apr/10 with craig mcmahon

Em66 - Lead - 08/Apr/10 with Mat

Easy for HVS.
David Bulley - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/10 with Andy Chisholm

simon_D - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/10 with Tiso boys!

the real dave - 2nd β - Apr/10 with joshua wyatt

Really good fun, hope to lead it on my next trip.
Roberttaylor - 2nd O/S - 17/Mar/10 with Marcus Horgan

abreen - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with Katie Hemus

smollett - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with oliver

scott gibson - 2010

GAHarris - Lead - 2010

TomKingston - Lead - 2010

danjw - 2010

sergio46 - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Ian Jones

Absolutely superb and absolutely overgraded. A total path, more like Severe.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Serge Gomez

Hidden - Lead - 25/Oct/09

oliverk - Lead - 25/Oct/09 with Malcolm

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09

brilliant - never hard - amazing position on good gear (although spaced) - the top holds are to dream for!
Woodiee - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/09 with Ian Birtwistle

andybroadway - 2nd - 26/Sep/09 with Martin Fitzsimons

odox - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with Sam Webb

nice wee route
tomdude - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with andy ventham, lawrence

wence - 2nd - 19/Sep/09 with Andy V, Tom

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09

Mark pulled me over the final overhang.
sarah hawker - 2nd dnf - 30/Aug/09 with Mark G (NCC), Anne K Amble, John Tucker

stukent - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/09 with Steven Walker

stoat - 2nd - 19/Jul/09 with markfairbank

Very nice; good moves into the groove and above through the overhang. Steady at HVS.
markfairbank - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/09 with Mick D

Nice on Lead.Quite a steady climb with gear all over.I agree its not HVS, but folk that think it is 'Severe' are off the mark
Sean Bell - Lead - 02/Jul/09 with col

robinsi197 - 2nd - 10/Jun/09 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/09

oliwarlow - Lead - 06/Jun/09 with Polly

david morse - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with andy+ben

French Erick - Solo O/S - 09/May/09 with Dave Kerr

Hidden - 2nd - 09/May/09

jameshall - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Jane

Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 25/Apr/09 with Kiwi Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09

odox - Lead - 18/Apr/09 with Sam Webb

AndrewShanks - 2nd β - 18/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09

Snap - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Rab

T Break - 12/Apr/09 with Rab

jimstanton - 2nd - Apr/09 with Tom

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Mar/09

ShelleyRhodes - 2nd - 17/Mar/09 with Chris Morrish

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Mar/09

Felt a lot easier than last time!
Andy Moles - Lead rpt - 22/Feb/09 with Burton

Mithral999 - 2nd - 17/Jan/09

Sean Bell - 2nd - 09/Jan/09 with Neil C

jess - Lead O/S - 2009 with martin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2009

Phill_ Thompson - Lead - 2009

Chris wilson - 2nd - 12/Oct/08 with John F

Should be 2 stars.
clive-greenwood - 2nd - 01/Sep/08 with Mike Nuttall

MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/08 with Clive Greenwood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08

burto - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08 with marcus

pimpy - Lead - 28/Jun/08 with ian burton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/08

Had a bit of a tamtrum, the fanny gene surfaced!!
beegsyboy - Lead O/S - 06/May/08 with Sean + Andy

Sean Bell - 2nd O/S - 06/May/08 with Tim, Andy

andymoin - 2nd rpt - 06/May/08 with Sean, Tim Cross

alaan - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/08

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Jenny Clarke

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Jonnie Williams

jonnie3430 - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with dj_brigham05

fritz_in_aotearoa - 2008

PaulWillis1973 - 2008

jimstanton - Lead - 2008

Maz J - 2008

andyandy - Lead - 14/Oct/07 with Ben

oliverk - 2nd - 11/Aug/07

First HVS lead, 1 day before my birthday! Lovely jubbly.
Sam Judson - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/07 with Phil Steadman, Caroline Judson

Some steep rock at height on this one but a great route.
Rocky0911 - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Neil

First HVS lead (on the same day as my first VS lead), was pretty scared at the top!
Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/07 with Calum

Another great route with some nice moves getting up to the nose into the scoop and over the roof. Good gear, but some suspect rock!
andymoin - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/07 with Mark Jarvie

Russell Lovett - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/07 with richard ?

Xav - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/06

Russell Lovett - Lead - 10/Sep/06 with tony lickes

Piglet - Lead - 12/Jul/06

A good lead by Steve and pleased with my ascent - no wimpering or scrabbling - just enjoyed it
snowcat - 2nd - 17/May/06 with Steve Orrell

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/05

barney_edin - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/05 with Nicole

French Erick - Lead O/S - Sep/04 with Stewart Richardson

betamonkey - TR O/S - Jul/03

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 25/May/03 with Sean Canavan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2002

Can't remember who I led this with. 2nd with Kenny years later.
stugreen75 - Lead O/S - 2002

gypsy3006 - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/99

Climbster - 2nd β - 24/Jul/99

Hidden - Lead - 27/May/99

Roget - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/98 with jim

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 1998

greenroom - Lead O/S - 1996

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Apr/94

David Smith - Aug/92 with Margaret Smith

Marti999 - Lead - 1992

kato'sdad - TR - 1992

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/90

Hidden - 1989

Hidden - 2nd - 1980

Paul Clarke - 1980 with NUMC

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 1974 with Will Walker

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
blackreaver, EalCapitan, Richard Fletcher, rexybo

Voting
Total votes cast 129
hard E10 of 44
E10 of 44
easy E10 of 44
hard HVS1 of 44
HVS21 of 44
easy HVS18 of 44
hard VS4 of 44
VS0 of 44
easy VS0 of 44
hard 5b0 of 45
5b0 of 45
easy 5b0 of 45
hard 5a6 of 45
5a26 of 45
easy 5a9 of 45
hard 4c4 of 45
4c0 of 45
easy 4c0 of 45
3 Stars9 of 40
2 Stars28 of 40
1 Star3 of 40
0 Stars0 of 40
Bag of .....0 of 40
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf