Rockfax Description
III, 400m, 4 -5 hours. The most popular route on the face and something of an autumn classic, worth the walk up!
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb 50 degree snow to reach the gully. There is often a few pitches of easy mixed ground at the foot of the route proper. Above this, 50 degree snow leads to a belay on the right at the foot of a steep icy runnel.
2) Climb the runnel, which (depending on conditions) is at least 80 degrees and can be delicate. Step left at the top to a belay.
3) Follow the couloir for 150m up 50-55 degree snow and ice to reach a col overlooking the Chardonnet's northEast Face.
4) Traverse left across the face for 15m and climb the wide 60 degree gully above to reach the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
New alpine grade: III 4, (ice crux 80°)

Jean Escarra, Etienne Payot & Emile Borgeat 29/Aug/1929.

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