The Gash IV 4
[Top pitch The Gash, 1 kb]3 pitches. The obvious chimney line just left of Hourglass Gully. Start at the bottom left of Hourglass gully. Traverse left along a ledge to the foot of the the chimney which is climbed in three pitches. The first is straightforward, while the second contains an awkward but small chockstone. The crux is the last pitch a huge chockstone on the left wall and then take the mixed ground above. A squeeze route behind may be an alternative in lean conditions for the anorexic.

Ticklists: Great routes in the Coe.

Photo: Top pitch The Gash © Mike Franks
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 21 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/15

Climbed in two pitches. One long pitch up the gully and over an initial chockstone leaving a shorter second pitch round the second chockstone and up through the squeeze. The ice is in good condition at the moment and the protection normally emerges with a bit of digging. The squeeze chimney goes but not how you might expect at first.
team fat belly - 15/Feb/15 with Max

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jan/14

A very good climb. Steady for the grade but nothing too difficult in todays condition, it was in good nic. Certainly worth a couple of stars, but its a long plod to get up to it. We started with a high belay so managed to do the route in two pitches which worked out well.
010paw - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/14 with Andy Watt

Soft snow on the approach, but the route was in brilliant condition, with chewy ice all the way. Not much gear to be had though!
Ken Applegate - Lead - 02/Jan/14 with Dirk

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13

Hidden - 19/Feb/12

Great Climb, so good I had to do it again. Managed to do the squeeze top out this time!
shugsan - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Marie, Jason King

Great fun route. Another subterranean adventure with the Boyd.
JasonK - AltLd - 29/Jan/12 with Euan Boyd

Brucemacrosson - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Simon Opit

Tight squeeze through cave to finish
WilliamBurnside - AltLd - 25/Jan/10 with John Workman

Fun Cave at the top, didn't manage to fit through the hole.
shugsan - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/10 with John Nelson

Boxy - AltLd - 18/Mar/06

Superb; chockstones and awesome 'trapdoor' squeeze. Joe had to remove his jacket to get through (not easy to reverse with legs dangling in mid-air!)
nickdonohue - Lead - 15/Dec/02 with Joe Brown

DerwentDiluted - AltLd - Jan/02 with Chris Pearson

Hidden - 01/Feb/99

Hidden - 1995

cornishmackem - 23/Mar/93 with Chris S, Tim Bantam

Hidden - Mar/93

frost - Solo - Jan/92

Great condition, did the through route option
uphillnow - Lead - Feb/78 with john page

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 26
hard V0 of 9
V0 of 9
easy V0 of 9
hard IV0 of 9
IV8 of 9
easy IV1 of 9
hard III0 of 9
III0 of 9
easy III0 of 9
hard 50 of 8
50 of 8
easy 50 of 8
hard 40 of 8
47 of 8
easy 41 of 8
hard 30 of 8
30 of 8
easy 30 of 8
3 Stars7 of 9
2 Stars1 of 9
1 Star1 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S