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Judas* E1 5b

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[Incorrect line shown in "Cornish Rock". The correct line of route is marked., 3 kb]Sadly mis-described in the past and all available topo's are wrong (it does not visit the flat topped pillar). The West Cornwall Supplement has improved the description and given a grade of E2 5b/c.

Photo: Incorrect line shown in "Cornish Rock". The correct line of route is marked. © Roland Edwards
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/10

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/90

keefe - 1985

I'll post two photos showing the original line of Judas as I first climbed it in 1970 with Dave Steel and Ian Duckworth. The first picture is of the 1st ascent showing me belayed on the final stance with Dave at the start of the leftward undercuts. The picture was taken on my camera by artist & climber Clifford Fishwick who watched the ascent. The second picture is from Roland Edwards' & Tim Dennell's "Cornish Rock" which shows the line (marked 19a/19) incorrectly over most of its length. I have marked the correct line, which doesn't share any climbing with Xanadu apart from the first few metres. The description in Andy March's "West Cornwall Supplement" is not correct when it says "step right to a belay at the end of Xanadu pitch 2" - the route continues up leftwards towards the top of the large black seam and the higher belay that I'm on in the photo. Although not marked, this line is clearly visible in the photo on page 218 of Mark Glaister's "West Country Climbs". Here's the original description from the 1973 Cannings / Littlejohn "Great Zawn" guidebook: Judas 240 feet Mild Extreme This takes a line up the centre of the overhung slabs to the left of the corner of Xanadu. A long and interesting climb. Start at the bottom of the groove of Xanadu. 1. 50 feet. 5a. Climb the groove for 10 feet then step left on to a ramp. Climb this then a shallow groove to a good stance. Peg belay. 2. 50 feet. 4c. Traverse left along the obvious horizontal line then climb the steep wall to a narrow ledge. Peg belay. 3. 90 feet. 5b. Move up from the left hand end of the ledge to an undercut flake. Move right to a shallow corner then back left on a slightly higher line using the obvious undercut holds. Climb over a bulge to good flakes then follow a black seam in the slab to the main overhang. Traverse left to a small but comfortable stance beneath the roof. A fine pitch. 4. 50 feet. 4b. Step up left into a corner and follow this, as for Garden Walk. Exit to the right on to steep grass slopes near the top.
Frank Cannings - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/70

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