Cornwall > Great Zawn >
 
Xanadu*** E2 5b

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This climb is in 30 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

2nd pitch
mikeshewring - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with sharpie

Superb! An awesome line which is as good as it looks. Much of P1 was slightly damp, which heightened the grip factor. The initial corner to the ledge was bloody hard and the open groove above was pretty sustained as well. The gear is good if you can hang on to place it! Felt more like E3 5c in the conditions (which I suspect were fairly average) but it's probably only top end E2 5b when dry (then again...). Set up a hanging belay a few metres lower than shown in the Rockfax. The slab on P2 was thought provoking as it was a bit run out on the traverse leftwards and one of the holds was wet but it was straightforward 5b slab work for a few moves and otherwise enjoyable 5a. I traversed higher than shown in the Rockfax, moving left across the top hanging slab to a spike - that made sense but there are probably alternatives. The P3 offwidth was kind of fun - exciting swing out on jugs, then more jug hauling and finally a bit of udging and leg jamming. Placed a BD cam 4 but not essential as there's a chockstone in place. Zillions of large spiders in the heather at the top. Bet they found the route easier! Led all pitches. Started at 4pm, topped out at 7.30pm, in St Just chippy at 8.30pm! Ed dropped a crab and nut so the following morning I abbed in to retrieve it and shunted back out using a prussic and belay device up the tottering choss below the spike abseil. That wasn't much fun...
Misha - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Ed

Found first pitch very hard. Even Misha didn't find it a pushover. Pleased to get the rest of it clean. 2nd pitch is more technical, nice moves. Top pitch is an awkward, stenuous, leaning, abrasive, lichen encrusted off-width. Much straddling and shuffling plus levering off protracting foot / leg / ankle bars/jams needed for this, something I rarely practise at the climbing wall.
eduardo - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/13 with Misha

Struggled up first 15-20m. Not only generally greasy but sopping wet in the corner. Decided it wasn't our day, and escaped from a convenient ledge. Hard to imagine when you would get it in condition.
nickdonohue - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/13 with Ashley Hold

Not a "get back into trad" route! P1 only then we "escaped" off right (an interesting experience of much unattached grass sketching), both cold and gripped. Considerably thinner and more sustained than expected - neither of us fancied more of the same but bolder!
Justin T - 2nd dnf - 08/Jun/13 with John Mcshea

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/11

Obvious sandbag. Clearly E3 5c. Pabbay quality. Started at 4pm and ran out of light. Resigned ourselves to a long night on the boulders.....
Ian Jones - AltLd dnf - 28/Apr/11 with Major Daniel Moore

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 27/Apr/11

P2 and 3 run together
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

wojt - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Rob Kennard - 2007

Bern - 2006

lukea - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/05 with Al

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/01

First pitch 6a. Entire route deserves E3.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1999 with Lee Clement

Mark Kemball - Lead - Aug/98 with Paul Chantrell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/97

Hamish Leslie - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Ste Lawler

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/95

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 1991 with Gordon Jenkin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/88

pulled on a piece on off width overhang near top
shark - AltLd - 22/Jul/85 with Dave Marsh

keefe - 29/Aug/84

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/84 with Ian Milne

Very hard on both pitches. E3.
Roy Stuart - Lead O/S - 1982 with Billy Bones

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
johnpr, Master Chief, nickstephens, Hidden, Ian Jones, Hidden, Dan_Carroll, Hidden, JerryD, Hidden, Kyuzo, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 46
hard E32 of 15
E32 of 15
easy E33 of 15
hard E27 of 15
E21 of 15
easy E20 of 15
hard E10 of 15
E10 of 15
easy E10 of 15
hard 5c3 of 15
5c2 of 15
easy 5c7 of 15
hard 5b3 of 15
5b0 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
hard 5a0 of 15
5a0 of 15
easy 5a0 of 15
3 Stars15 of 16
2 Stars0 of 16
1 Star1 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead11 of 30 (36.7%)
Followed2 of 30 (6.7%)
Alt Leads12 of 30 (40.0%)
Unknown5 of 30 (16.7%)

'Climbed'9 of 30 (30.0%)
clean O/S15 of 30 (50.0%)
dogged1 of 30 (3.3%)
dnf5 of 30 (16.7%)