Cornwall > Great Zawn >
 
Xanadu*** E2 5b

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Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

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This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Superb! An awesome line which is as good as it looks. Much of P1 was slightly damp, which heightened the grip factor. The initial corner to the ledge was bloody hard and the open groove above was pretty sustained as well. The gear is good if you can hang on to place it! Felt more like E3 5c in the conditions (which I suspect were fairly average) but it's probably only top end E2 5b when dry (then again...). Set up a hanging belay a few metres lower than shown in the Rockfax. The slab on P2 was thought provoking as it was a bit run out on the traverse leftwards and one of the holds was wet but it was straightforward 5b slab work for a few moves and otherwise enjoyable 5a. I traversed higher than shown in the Rockfax, moving left across the top hanging slab to a spike - that made sense but there are probably alternatives. The P3 offwidth was kind of fun - exciting swing out on jugs, then more jug hauling and finally a bit of udging and leg jamming. Placed a BD cam 4 but not essential as there's a chockstone in place. Zillions of large spiders in the heather at the top. Bet they found the route easier! Led all pitches. Started at 4pm, topped out at 7.30pm, in St Just chippy at 8.30pm! Ed dropped a crab and nut so the following morning I abbed in to retrieve it and shunted back out using a prussic and belay device up the tottering choss below the spike abseil. That wasn't much fun...
Misha - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Ed

Found first pitch very hard. Even Misha didn't find it a pushover. Pleased to get the rest of it clean. 2nd pitch is more technical, nice moves. Top pitch is an awkward, stenuous, leaning, abrasive, lichen encrusted off-width. Much straddling and shuffling plus levering off protracting foot / leg / ankle bars/jams needed for this, something I rarely practise at the climbing wall.
eduardo - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/13 with Misha

Struggled up first 15-20m. Not only generally greasy but sopping wet in the corner. Decided it wasn't our day, and escaped from a convenient ledge. Hard to imagine when you would get it in condition.
nickdonohue - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/13 with Ashley Hold

Not a "get back into trad" route! P1 only then we "escaped" off right (an interesting experience of much unattached grass sketching), both cold and gripped. Considerably thinner and more sustained than expected - neither of us fancied more of the same but bolder!
Justin T - 2nd dnf - 08/Jun/13 with John Mcshea

Hidden - 2012

wojtt - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/11

Obvious sandbag. Clearly E3 5c. Pabbay quality. Started at 4pm and ran out of light. Resigned ourselves to a long night on the boulders.....
Ian Jones - AltLd dnf - 28/Apr/11 with Major Daniel Moore

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 27/Apr/11

P2 and 3 run together
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

wojt - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Rob Kennard - 2007

Bern - 2006

lukea - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/05 with Al

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/01

First pitch 6a. Entire route deserves E3.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1999 with Lee Clement

Mark Kemball - Lead - Aug/98 with Paul Chantrell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/95

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 1991 with Gordon Jenkin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/88

pulled on a piece on off width overhang near top
shark - AltLd - 22/Jul/85 with Dave Marsh

keefe - 29/Aug/84

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/84 with Ian Milne

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
johnpr, Master Chief, nickstephens, Hidden, Ian Jones, Hidden, Dan_Carroll, Hidden, JerryD, Hidden, Kyuzo, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 37
hard E30 of 12
E31 of 12
easy E33 of 12
hard E27 of 12
E21 of 12
easy E20 of 12
hard E10 of 12
E10 of 12
easy E10 of 12
hard 5c1 of 12
5c1 of 12
easy 5c7 of 12
hard 5b3 of 12
5b0 of 12
easy 5b0 of 12
hard 5a0 of 12
5a0 of 12
easy 5a0 of 12
3 Stars12 of 13
2 Stars0 of 13
1 Star1 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent

Lead10 of 27 (37.0%)
Followed2 of 27 (7.4%)
Alt Leads10 of 27 (37.0%)
Unknown5 of 27 (18.5%)

'Climbed'9 of 27 (33.3%)
clean O/S12 of 27 (44.4%)
dogged1 of 27 (3.7%)
dnf5 of 27 (18.5%)