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Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Ian Jones 29/Jun AltLd β

Bob agrees this is Welsh E3. Stupendous with a hell of a sting in the tail. Top pitch is 5c+ at least. THIS IS NOT THE SAME GRADE AS THE STRAND OR A GRADE EASIER THAN GRASP THE NETTLE..

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27/Jun AltLd O/S

I'd always been worried about the Cormorant on the nearby ledge, but it's actually quite a distance away from the route itself and therefore easy to avoid.

Duncan Campbell 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 (and 3 as per Rockfax - better to string together). A brilliant route, though as we had gone down for West Face we had no big cams and suffice to say I fully shit my pants scrabbling up the wide, dirty top crack and over the mud cornice - would recommend taking at least a blue camalot. Fortunately there is a chockstone low down in the crack. Wild!

with Robbie
soph 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Both pitches brilliant

with Michaela Tracy
mikeshewring 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

with sharpie
Misha 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Superb! An awesome line which is as good as it looks. Much of P1 was slightly damp, which heightened the grip factor. The initial corner to the ledge was bloody hard and the open groove above was pretty sustained as well. The gear is good if you can hang on to place it! Felt more like E3 5c in the conditions (which I suspect were fairly average) but it's probably only top end E2 5b when dry (then again...). Set up a hanging belay a few metres lower than shown in the Rockfax. The slab on P2 was thought provoking as it was a bit run out on the traverse leftwards and one of the holds was wet but it was straightforward 5b slab work for a few moves and otherwise enjoyable 5a. I traversed higher than shown in the Rockfax, moving left across the top hanging slab to a spike - that made sense but there are probably alternatives. The P3 offwidth was kind of fun - exciting swing out on jugs, then more jug hauling and finally a bit of udging and leg jamming. Placed a BD cam 4 but not essential as there's a chockstone in place. Zillions of large spiders in the heather at the top. Bet they found the route easier! Led all pitches. Started at 4pm, topped out at 7.30pm, in St Just chippy at 8.30pm! Ed dropped a crab and nut so the following morning I abbed in to retrieve it and shunted back out using a prussic and belay device up the tottering choss below the spike abseil. That wasn't much fun...

with Ed
eduardo 24/Aug/13 2nd dog

Found first pitch very hard. Even Misha didn't find it a pushover. Pleased to get the rest of it clean. 2nd pitch is more technical, nice moves. Top pitch is an awkward, stenuous, leaning, abrasive, lichen encrusted off-width. Much straddling and shuffling plus levering off protracting foot / leg / ankle bars/jams needed for this, something I rarely practise at the climbing wall.

with Misha
nickdonohue 14/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Struggled up first 15-20m. Not only generally greasy but sopping wet in the corner. Decided it wasn't our day, and escaped from a convenient ledge. Hard to imagine when you would get it in condition.

with Ashley Hold
Justin T 08/Jun/13 2nd dnf

Not a "get back into trad" route! P1 only then we "escaped" off right (an interesting experience of much unattached grass sketching), both cold and gripped. Considerably thinner and more sustained than expected - neither of us fancied more of the same but bolder!

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/11 Lead dnf
Ian Jones 28/Apr/11 AltLd dnf

Obvious sandbag. Clearly E3 5c. Pabbay quality. Started at 4pm and ran out of light. Resigned ourselves to a long night on the boulders.....

with Major Daniel Moore
Hidden 27/Apr/11 AltLd dnf
pezzerrr 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

P2 and 3 run together

Hidden 12/May/10 AltLd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
wojt ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Bern ??/2006 -
lukea 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Al
jfletcher 12/Jul/03 AltLd
with Tom Wells, James Strongman
Hidden 28/Jul/01 Lead
William Robertson ??/1999 Lead O/S

First pitch 6a. Entire route deserves E3.

with Lee Clement
Mark Kemball ?/Aug/98 Lead
with Paul Chantrell
Hidden 26/May/97 AltLd O/S
Hamish Leslie ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Ste Lawler
Hidden 23/May/95 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1991 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/88 AltLd O/S
shark 22/Jul/85 AltLd

pulled on a piece on off width overhang near top

keefe 29/Aug/84 -
charlesmfrench 23/Apr/84 AltLd O/S
with Ian Milne
Roy Stuart ??/1982 Lead O/S

Very hard on both pitches. E3.

with Billy Bones
petemeads ?/Aug/76 Lead

Nicky spooked by the style of climbing, and that it was not gritstone, so I got to lead P1 and P2. Probably worth E3 but it was pretty dry for us...

with Nicky Stokes
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
skellymax, johnpr, Master Chief, nickstephens, Hidden, Ian Jones, Hidden, Dan_Carroll, Hidden, JerryD, Hidden, Kyuzo, Hidden
High E3
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High 5c
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High 5a
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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