Bob agrees this is Welsh E3. Stupendous with a hell of a sting in the tail. Top pitch is 5c+ at least. THIS IS NOT THE SAME GRADE AS THE STRAND OR A GRADE EASIER THAN GRASP THE NETTLE..
Ian Jones - AltLd β - 29/Jun/15 with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
I'd always been worried about the Cormorant on the nearby ledge, but it's actually quite a distance away from the route itself and therefore easy to avoid.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Duncan Campbell
Lead pitch 2 (and 3 as per Rockfax - better to string together). A brilliant route, though as we had gone down for West Face we had no big cams and suffice to say I fully shit my pants scrabbling up the wide, dirty top crack and over the mud cornice - would recommend taking at least a blue camalot. Fortunately there is a chockstone low down in the crack. Wild!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Robbie
Both pitches brilliant
soph - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Michaela Tracy
mikeshewring - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with sharpie
Superb! An awesome line which is as good as it looks. Much of P1 was slightly damp, which heightened the grip factor. The initial corner to the ledge was bloody hard and the open groove above was pretty sustained as well. The gear is good if you can hang on to place it! Felt more like E3 5c in the conditions (which I suspect were fairly average) but it's probably only top end E2 5b when dry (then again...). Set up a hanging belay a few metres lower than shown in the Rockfax. The slab on P2 was thought provoking as it was a bit run out on the traverse leftwards and one of the holds was wet but it was straightforward 5b slab work for a few moves and otherwise enjoyable 5a. I traversed higher than shown in the Rockfax, moving left across the top hanging slab to a spike - that made sense but there are probably alternatives. The P3 offwidth was kind of fun - exciting swing out on jugs, then more jug hauling and finally a bit of udging and leg jamming. Placed a BD cam 4 but not essential as there's a chockstone in place. Zillions of large spiders in the heather at the top. Bet they found the route easier! Led all pitches. Started at 4pm, topped out at 7.30pm, in St Just chippy at 8.30pm! Ed dropped a crab and nut so the following morning I abbed in to retrieve it and shunted back out using a prussic and belay device up the tottering choss below the spike abseil. That wasn't much fun...
Misha - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Ed
Found first pitch very hard. Even Misha didn't find it a pushover.
Pleased to get the rest of it clean. 2nd pitch is more technical, nice moves. Top pitch is an awkward, stenuous, leaning, abrasive, lichen encrusted off-width. Much straddling and shuffling plus levering off protracting foot / leg / ankle bars/jams needed for this, something I rarely practise at the climbing wall.
eduardo - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/13 with Misha
Struggled up first 15-20m. Not only generally greasy but sopping wet in the corner. Decided it wasn't our day, and escaped from a convenient ledge. Hard to imagine when you would get it in condition.
nickdonohue - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/13 with Ashley Hold
Not a "get back into trad" route! P1 only then we "escaped" off right (an interesting experience of much unattached grass sketching), both cold and gripped. Considerably thinner and more sustained than expected - neither of us fancied more of the same but bolder!
Justin T - 2nd dnf - 08/Jun/13 with John Mcshea
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11
Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/11
Obvious sandbag. Clearly E3 5c. Pabbay quality. Started at 4pm and ran out of light. Resigned ourselves to a long night on the boulders.....
Ian Jones - AltLd dnf - 28/Apr/11 with Major Daniel Moore
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 27/Apr/11
P2 and 3 run together
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/10
Seymore Butt - 2010
wojt - Lead O/S - Sep/09
Rob Kennard - 2007
Bern - 2006
lukea - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/05 with Al
jfletcher - AltLd - 12/Jul/03 with Tom Wells, James Strongman
Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/01
First pitch 6a. Entire route deserves E3.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1999 with Lee Clement
Mark Kemball - Lead - Aug/98 with Paul Chantrell
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/97
Hamish Leslie - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Ste Lawler
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/95
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 1991 with Gordon Jenkin
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/88
pulled on a piece on off width overhang near top
shark - AltLd - 22/Jul/85 with Dave Marsh
keefe - 29/Aug/84
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/84 with Ian Milne
Very hard on both pitches. E3.
Roy Stuart - Lead O/S - 1982 with Billy Bones
Nicky spooked by the style of climbing, and that it was not gritstone, so I got to lead P1 and P2. Probably worth E3 but it was pretty dry for us...
petemeads - Lead - Aug/76 with Nicky Stokes