UKC

Restricted Access

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden and there are old signs on approach indicating no climbing.

8m.

Rockfax Description
Well-protected but tough crack climbing. Start below the fist size crack in the buttress on the left of the face. The crack can be laced with good gear but the ascent is still a good test of jamming especially the first few metres. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An awkward entry into the crack which eases with height.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , I want a Pasty! , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall

Feedback

User Date Notes
BuzyG 22 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The start is the crux. Once into the crack it is a nice straight forward climb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The start is the crux. Once into the crack it is a nice straight forward climb
rccurrie 10 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Nice wee S, do this to de-slug yourself
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice wee S, do this to de-slug yourself
alex505c 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Difficulty is probably very dependent on hand size. I have large-ish hands and got good fist jams in the early section where you have little choice but to jam. My second, who has small hands, found that section very insecure. In any case you need big gear to protect it. My BD size 3 (blue) was only good for the very beginning, and then I used a size 4 (grey), bumping it progressively higher as I went up.
Show beta
βeta: Difficulty is probably very dependent on hand size. I have large-ish hands and got good fist jams in the early section where you have little choice but to jam. My second, who has small hands, found that section very insecure. In any case you need big gear to protect it. My BD size 3 (blue) was only good for the very beginning, and then I used a size 4 (grey), bumping it progressively higher as I went up.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Roche Rock

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 58
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pendulum Chimney

Grade: S 4b ***
(Chair Ladder)

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