Rockfax Description
Well-protected but tough crack-climbing. Start below the fist size crack in the buttress on the left of the face.
The crack can be laced with good gear but the ascent is still a good test of jamming especially the first few metres. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An awkward entry into the crack which eases with height.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Master Chief 16/Oct Solo rpt
with Jeremy
robertmills4 21/Sep Lead O/S
with Katie Welch
Hidden 06/Sep Lead
Hidden 29/Aug 2nd
alexporter 29/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug Lead O/S
emc110502 16/Aug 2nd O/S

offwidth in wrong sized shoes

with Diane Mangan, Jim Croft
DreadyCraig 29/Jul Lead O/S
DreadyCraig 29/Jul Lead O/S
clams ?/Jul 2nd
with Cat, Doug and Coral
CatMc ?/Jul Lead
with clams
dynodean 22/Jun Lead rpt
with Dean P, Paul
Connie-Em 15/Jun Lead O/S
maddy92 15/Jun Solo rpt
helen.baldwin 15/Jun Solo O/S
Rob McGurk 15/Jun Lead O/S
myrddinmuse 15/Jun Solo O/S
huwtheenigma 15/Jun Solo
Hidden 14/Jun 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun Lead O/S
mclancy50 11/Jun Lead O/S

Not a huge amount of gear for a S... Had to bring big cams!!

with Maddy
Alextreme 05/Jun Lead O/S

Placed one hex from the ground and then practically solo'd the rest... maybe I suck at spotting gear.

with UBMC
John1458 05/Jun 2nd O/S
67hours 24/May Lead O/S
with Erinna
nmott 04/May 2nd
with Donald
bigbear86 ?/May Lead
crater 26/Apr Lead O/S
with nicky
phil456 21/Apr Lead rpt
with Graham M
Jamo Walker 20/Apr 2nd rpt
with Simon Raulf
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
Merlin Fincken 05/Apr Lead O/S
with DG
Listy35 04/Apr Lead O/S
with Dom Tatton
Chrismaccers ?/Apr Lead O/S
JazS 31/Mar Lead
Hidden 06/Mar Lead O/S
M_Payne ?/Mar Lead
andork123 28/Feb Lead O/S
NathanTurnock29 04/Feb Lead O/S
dannibunt 30/Jan Lead O/S
rubywaterfield 30/Jan Lead RP
phil lewis 30/Jan Lead RP
DredStripe 04/Jan Lead O/S
with Claire Falck
Jackislav 27/Oct/14 Solo O/S
with Alex
duckhead ?/Oct/14 Lead
runwildjohn 18/Sep/14 TR

Self belay

kel1989 02/Sep/14 2nd
with Joe Lewis, Heather Handy
Alex Hallam 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Rosie Hoare, Pete Mack
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd
Carter 20/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Anna
Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead
JordanH 14/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Joel Perkin 02/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Terry Tibbs
Tommyt 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Glad Joel took the big cam

with Joel
omaskrey 18/Jul/14 Lead rpt
DaveGoesClimbing 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S

nice climb, one hard move

PaulRickard 05/Jul/14 AltLd

Cornish severe, easier climbing towards the top.

with John Smith
dynodean 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Alan, Paul
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
maddy92 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
HardmanJ 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
edjenkins 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
helen.baldwin 16/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Greeny8053 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
steven703 ?/Jun/14 Lead
Forrest4556 29/May/14 -

Fell off!

Poco Loco 26/May/14 2nd rpt

Good lead from Lucy, first 4b! Another big cam would help higher up. Crux at the start, easing higher up.

with Lucy
lucyh 26/May/14 Lead

Not as well protected as I would have liked

snook 18/May/14 Solo rpt
supersouthward 18/May/14 -
with valentine verrijken, Selen Thyssen, alex snook cox
guy757 17/May/14 -
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Mike Soulby 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
scott.hill 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
monkeytennis 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Nice route. Gets easier higher.

Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Skip 30/Mar/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 26/Mar/14 Solo rpt
chasingthelotus 12/Mar/14 Solo O/S

little tricky to start

Hidden 22/Feb/14 Lead rpt
froggs88 19/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jan/14 2nd rpt
arandall 19/Jan/14 Solo rpt
JoeCoxson 19/Jan/14 Solo rpt

Soloed again just to get another climb in before the weather turned.

matt_read 11/Jan/14 2nd
Jenny Dart ?/Jan/14 Lead
Jen_George ??/2014 -
nickdonohue 29/Dec/13 Lead
with Jim Barritt
whiteexplorer 29/Dec/13 2nd O/S
with Dave Piper
Ribbit 29/Dec/13 Lead
with Tom
kn 29/Dec/13 2nd
duckhead 25/Dec/13 2nd
ChrisGard 20/Dec/13 Lead
Jack J Keogan 17/Nov/13 Lead O/S

direct start up the face

with George Thorne, Lottie Thorne
Lottie Thorne 17/Nov/13 2nd

took Dodge on his first trad climb!

Hidden 16/Nov/13 2nd
jbclimb 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S

My first Severe and a cracking one at that :D

hatchek ?/Nov/13 -
payne93 15/Oct/13 Lead O/S
SimonMarcYoung 15/Oct/13 2nd O/S
omaskrey 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Hannah S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 -
Hidden 02/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/13 Lead β
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead
Hellflame 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd
snook 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

First climb at Roche. Good little line. Did a traverse at the end and carried on up to the Chappel. Didn't have any spade size cams so just kept going on good holds and amazingly grippy rock.

A Walker 07/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Solo rpt
Jackislav 03/Aug/13 Solo
badgerjockey ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Luke
angie 30/Jul/13 2nd
with Paul turner
jamesnorton 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Martin
tobydunford 22/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Panick 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

My severe climb for SPA Assessment, felt very difficult.. pressure added to the hottest day of the year. Need very large gear.

Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Marktrin 06/Jul/13 2nd
with Phil
phil456 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Solo
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
BenBird 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Ouch, I lost some skin on my left hand from doing this, maybe even some sleep. Tough times in a big crack!

with Stew Nutter
Stew nutter 18/Jun/13 2nd
iainstap 15/Jun/13 Lead
Ian JL 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 21/May/13 -
Hidden 15/May/13 2nd O/S
s.thursz 15/May/13 Lead O/S
maresia 13/May/13 2nd rpt
with Josh Ravenscroft
fire_munki 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Jack J Keogan 06/May/13 Solo O/S
stuieb123 06/May/13 2nd O/S

nice easy climb. large holds and the rock is so grippy.

neiloutdoors 06/May/13 Lead
tracyclimber 06/May/13 2nd
Popkids 05/May/13 2nd O/S
with Baz
skeight88 ?/May/13 Lead
with Johanna
Merrick796 ?/May/13 Lead
Stew nutter 26/Apr/13 Lead
Hamish777 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
andrea83 20/Apr/13 2nd β
with Rachel, Hamish
tc7118 18/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Jackislav 26/Mar/13 -
Hidden 25/Mar/13 TR O/S
Matthew Robinson 17/Mar/13 Solo
JoeCoxson 10/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Didn't place any gear, but a climb none the less.

Chris316 15/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
willc91 ??/2013 -
Jamo Walker 07/Dec/12 Lead
Sam Diago Coward 05/Dec/12 Lead
Maywood96 30/Nov/12 TR O/S
George Nichols 21/Nov/12 Solo

Just layback it.

jackappleby 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Skip 16/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 16/Oct/12 Lead O/S

A few nice jams but only well protected if you have huge cams

with Skip
Maywood96 15/Oct/12 TR O/S
arandall 06/Oct/12 TR rpt
with CUC Climbing Club
gingerking ?/Oct/12 Solo
Mark Kemball 09/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
scmertes 07/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Lizzie Irvine
s.scott 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Danny_boulders ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Whitmoreaa 25/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Dan Pinkney
Hidden 15/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
kozzi 11/Aug/12 TR
Hidden 06/Aug/12 Lead
argyle_dude 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S
MinHazeldine 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Joemanglerocks 11/Jul/12 Solo
JamesGibson 25/Jun/12 Solo O/S
with ToddB
Loner_Starlight 13/Jun/12 Lead dnf
SurferStan 12/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Lead by Dave

samfayers 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Dunton
georgedunton 11/Jun/12 2nd O/S
ToddB 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with James
aljezurusrf08 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Willow
blackrose 02/Jun/12 TR O/S
sam0000 ?/Jun/12 Solo rpt
Hidden 11/May/12 Lead O/S
whiteexplorer 01/May/12 Lead O/S

my 1st lead with my son Kieran seconding me..which was nice!!!!!

with Kieran
tmather 30/Apr/12 Solo
Westcorkman 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Bob Dawson
1906johns 04/Apr/12 Lead O/S
gingerking ?/Apr/12 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Mar/12 Lead
JamesGibson 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with ToddB
ToddB 26/Mar/12 2nd
with James
Hidden 25/Mar/12 TR O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Matt Smith 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Take very large gear.

with Jack Fellows
scmertes 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Vicky Barns
Joel Perkin 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Big gear needed if you want to protect it well.

with Mike Garret
katiep 04/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Fiona Addie
rose394 03/Mar/12 TR O/S
John Forster 03/Mar/12 AltLd
John Forster 03/Mar/12 2nd
with Richard Green, Andy Freedman, Andrew Gritten
Doug miller ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Stroppy ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
tombushell ?/Mar/12 2nd
with Ed
ewanthomson 29/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Steve Salisbury
SteveoS 29/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Ewan Thomson
pete87abs 19/Feb/12 Solo O/S
arandall 05/Feb/12 2nd rpt
Wendy Watthews 05/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Wendy Watthews 05/Feb/12 2nd
CatherineSwan 05/Feb/12 Lead O/S
SamChessell 05/Feb/12 2nd rpt

Catherine's first severe, and a bitch of a severe at that.

gingerking ?/Feb/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/12 Solo
ollie_e 29/Jan/12 Solo
with Chris
Lewis Stewart 23/Jan/12 Solo O/S
with Cameron
Hidden 23/Jan/12 Solo O/S
mike hooper 07/Jan/12 Lead
with jobey martin
sam0000 ?/Jan/12 Lead O/S
tombushell ??/2012 2nd
with Ed Hastrop
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Mr Tickle 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
oowhey000 07/Nov/11 TR
paco 07/Nov/11 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
J.Hine 25/Oct/11 2nd
JUSTXMike 15/Oct/11 TR O/S
pow22 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S
MGrock 03/Oct/11 Solo
neilstubbs ?/Oct/11 Lead
Chilidog ?/Oct/11 Lead
with Phill Matthews
alice fuller 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S

1st lead with Pete.

migs493 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Felix Ottey 10/Sep/11 Lead
J.Hine 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
ollieben 31/Aug/11 -
with harry henson
Ade Lane 28/Aug/11 TR
Jon Olliffe 28/Aug/11 TR O/S


Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S
BelayBunney 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
mwicks1968 09/Aug/11 Lead

Yes quite a bold protectionless Severe - hmmm!

tobydunford 01/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
jac.c123 24/Jul/11 2nd
with Alister, andyc123
FragOcon 29/Jun/11 2nd
colonelreginald 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
flyinfrenchy 19/Jun/11 Solo rpt
Dave192939 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Alex Small, Christian Moore
Stepanek 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
zard 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tom_holdsworth 08/Jun/11 Lead
mark_jee 07/Jun/11 TR
with Vicky
vickytee 07/Jun/11 TR
with Mark
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/May/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/May/11 Lead O/S
SamChessell 14/May/11 2nd O/S
tmather 14/May/11 Lead
with Samuel Chessell
amyb 12/May/11 Lead
with Rubber boy Kev
Hamish777 06/May/11 Lead O/S
mark sharples 06/May/11 2nd O/S
milkyjoe 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with andy
Hidden 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
dale1968 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
BALD EAGLE 25/Apr/11 Lead
with Rob Horler
benlawlor85 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Interesting start, ran out of Hexs! but really enjoyed it!

with Jack
culmclimberRob 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with adrian
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Solo
MJAS82 16/Apr/11 Lead dog
MissMuddypenny 16/Apr/11 2nd
SurfingRock ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
M govier 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tom parsons 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Mike Govier
josh88 23/Mar/11 Lead
with Stan
Stan011 23/Mar/11 Lead
cmars89 23/Mar/11 Solo
cmars89 15/Mar/11 Lead
PeteBall 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/11 Lead
climbhannahclimb ?/Mar/11 Lead β
Ed Babs 22/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Darren
Tom Seccombe 12/Feb/11 Solo O/S
Tj murray 12/Feb/11 Solo
carlgodfrey 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/11 2nd
flyinfrenchy 05/Feb/11 Solo O/S
tmather 05/Feb/11 2nd
gingerking ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Pricey06 ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Tj murray ??/2011 -
stevorobs3 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
chris687 12/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Jo sumner 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Gibbo 13/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with Andy Strachan
Rock Lizard ?/Nov/10 Lead
gingerking ?/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Tom Last 14/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/10 TR O/S
Yong_Welsh 06/Oct/10 Solo O/S
andrea83 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Got a bomber jam!

with Pete
Hidden 21/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/10 Solo O/S
paddymitton ?/Sep/10 Lead
edpd1b 31/Aug/10 Solo
crag_monster 31/Aug/10 Solo
crag_monster 31/Aug/10 Solo
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Solo O/S
katiep 14/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Freddie 1 12/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Andyh83
jonnyridleylogan ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/10 Lead
joeyj 13/Jun/10 TR
ParkFace ?/Jun/10 2nd
with Ben Mayo
jakenichol 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
haylow 08/Apr/10 2nd
Ashhampson 07/Apr/10 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead
Harry Webdale 03/Mar/10 Lead O/S
nickstephens 06/Dec/09 Lead O/S
pielander 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with elaine
Poco Loco 29/Aug/09 Solo rpt

Followed Guy up, good fun as I remembered it.

with Guy Pomeroy
harvie 28/Aug/09 Solo
Rusty2406 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Timmy
Master Chief 23/Aug/09 Lead rpt


with Moe
crobinson 30/Jun/09 Lead

short but good climb, large cams very useful in the crack.

with Dad
Dilwat 10/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Richard
Poco Loco 03/May/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/09 Lead
Samuel P 10/Apr/09 Lead
with Tommy
Hidden 10/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd
Tom Styles 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Reuben Richardson
neilstubbs ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/09 Lead
Master Chief 01/Nov/08 2nd rpt
with Moe
Ed morris 31/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with stefan
Stefan_Morris 31/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Solo
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/08 Lead
Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Solo
Master Chief 12/Jan/08 TR O/S
with Moe
Marti999 12/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Marti999 12/Oct/07 Solo O/S
El3ctroFuzz ?/Oct/07 Solo O/S
with Liam Cock and Louise Street (watched)
hapymike 04/Jun/07 Lead
Merlin 10/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Solo O/S
dickjonesocp ??/2007 -
with al
dickjonesocp ??/2007 -
with al
Hidden 01/Nov/06 2nd
Salsicha 26/Jun/06 2nd O/S
maresia 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Stuie 31/Mar/06 Solo O/S
JackMountains ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S

First trad lead

Ben Snook ?/Nov/05 2nd
with n0ph33r
simon kimber ?/Feb/04 2nd
with Lucy Filce
andy_pemberton ??/1999 Lead
with Katharine Pemberton
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DaveGoesClimbing, Kellz, alexporter, Hidden, DreadyCraig
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 39
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set