2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fairly popular expedition that provides a good alternative to Bottomless Buttress. Start at a crack in the wall around 25m right of the base of the abseil line, below a huge roof at the fault-line - not shown on the topo.
1) 4b, 21m. Climb up the crack and then move leftwards to a corner below the roof. Climb the corner, over a bulge and traverse left to a belay on a big jammed boulder.
2) 4a, 18m. Climb up a groove for 5m and move left to ledges. Move along the ledges to a crack in a wide groove and take this to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb straight up to the right of the small roof. Make an exposed bridging move to good holds on the fault line and traverse this left to a belay on a stuck block. Second pitch continues up and to the left across a vegitated ramp and finish straight up the small corner. Belay on one stake and bushes.

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, Orange Spot Swanage, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Hidden 27/Sep AltLd
herman0055 13/Sep Lead

No stakes or anything at top

paultaylor ?/Aug AltLd rpt
with Matt Roberts, Will I Am
sonic46 05/Jul AltLd O/S

Wow, what a fantastic first pitch - cannot believe I haven't done this one before :)

mikehenesy 04/Jul AltLd β

Did second pitch, all was well.

with Sonia
bridget143 21/Jun 2nd O/S
with Simen
Steve_T_Taylor 10/Jun 2nd O/S
with louise kennedy
Buccaneerbilly 07/Jun AltLd

Lead the second pitch after Dave had cruised the first.

DaveGarrity 07/Jun AltLd O/S

Cracking route, lead first pitch. Willie had to contend with the horrid top out. Pre-placed rope a must.

with Willie
tobydunford 16/May Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Shane Willis ??/2015 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Russell Lovett ??/2015 AltLd O/S

Seconded first pitch, lead pitch two. Date not know early 1980,s.

with Tim Freeman
Pero 10/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

P1 very good, P2 less so.

with Emily
Emily 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Did this in three pitches: I was leading the second one and got spooked by some combination of nasty grassy ledges, running low on quickdraws, and a hard looking section above, so decided to belay and get back on the friendly end of the rope

with Nick
MontyH 23/Aug/14 AltLd
with brian and Pete
brian watson 23/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Got properly rained on at the belay!!!

with Pete Frost
mikehenesy 12/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

The newly converted Swanagophile Phil romped up the crack and bounded over the buldge. Second pitch is a bit steeper and scaryier than I remember. A right good adventure.

with Phil Blight
Sophie Nunn 20/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
with Andy J
Nexonen 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
Hidden 24/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd rpt
joedoherty 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Anna Gibson
elfka 20/Jun/14 AltLd
with Joe Doherty
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Monkey_Alan 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Anne-Marie Shepherd
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 13/Apr/14 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
sonic46 13/Apr/14 AltLd

Alt lead. I took the second pitch

with Lee Mercer
Big Lee 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch.

annak 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/14 Lead rpt
McPhail92 31/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Exposed traverse - protect for second with sling. Hard crack on second pitch.

Jamiet297 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Nice climb, but think loose rock on P1 gets it 4b

nickdonohue 01/Mar/14 2nd

good climbing & solid on both pitches, unusual for the grade!

Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd rpt
LozM 04/Aug/13 AltLd

Led P2

with Mark J
Cheese Monkey 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Excellent exposed moves before the traverse on p1. Shame about the ledge walk on p2

with Mike
Mayaculpa 19/Jul/13 2nd
with Ben
sonic46 14/Jul/13 2nd
Monkey_Alan 04/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Matt Tyson, John Knight
Mattzx6r ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with luke goble, Sonia
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
mikehenesy 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Did it years ago with Chris, not logged it. Remember leading the first pitch and standing on the wedged belay boulder wondering what would happen if it went. Tom was pretty cool on it, hey I think he might manage a VS next.

with Tom Stanford
MarkCunnington 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

Lead First Pitch

with Arul Umapathy
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
Nexonen 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Sophie, Floris
Sophie Nunn 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Andy J, Floris
Hidden 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/13 2nd dog
LukeyG 27/Oct/12 AltLd
Ciderslider 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Nice route, pitch 2 is a bit of a walk though the garden

ciderspider 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Ed Babs 12/Oct/12 AltLd O/S


Hidden 12/Oct/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/12 AltLd
Pete Nugent 14/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1.

eroica64 06/Sep/12 Lead

Lovely straightforward and easy climb. Stake at top hidden by vegetation and found after belaying on shrubbery stems. Bah!

with Audrey Morrison
pippa_g 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Nice climb, managed this despite exhaustion brought on by Silhouette Arete. Belay very friendly with 3 on it!

Monkey_Alan 12/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with James Bridger, Pippa Gillingham
Julian Prieto 11/Aug/12 Lead rpt

Led P1 and P3 (climbed in 3 pitches)

with Hector Prieto, Ollie Dorrell
hector 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Ollie Dorrell, Julian Prieto
Geoffers 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Lauren, Tim
Headjamm 28/Jul/12 2nd
with Geoff
Steve27 01/Jul/12 AltLd
gilmourheid 01/Jul/12 AltLd
with Steve27
Joemanglerocks 30/Jun/12 AltLd

Led P1

TimKnight 30/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2

LJC 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Now with in-situ bomber dmm alloy offset just before the traverse.

with Theo
Hidden 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
patrickc 16/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with oli, neils
The Ivanator 13/May/12 AltLd rpt

Led pitch 1 this time.

with Rich
Rich God 3 13/May/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
Steve27 26/Feb/12 AltLd

Led first pitch

gilmourheid 26/Feb/12 AltLd
with Steve27
Hidden 19/Feb/12 -
Norman_P_W 19/Feb/12 -
with Bob M
Ian JL ??/2012 -
steve taylor ??/2012 -
Hidden 09/Oct/11 AltLd rpt
Monkey_Alan 09/Oct/11 AltLd rpt
with Jeremy, Viskii Chicu
tev 09/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Tom S
tomshanti 09/Oct/11 Lead β

thomas led to corner below roof and downclimbed.i climbed(tr) to cnr and led crux thro to belay.finished up higgins(careful what you pull on!)

leonjones 14/Jun/11 AltLd

First pitch only. Finished up Higgins. Roy P1, me P2.

with Roy Smith
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd
nick hawkins 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Led p1 really nice route

with steve
Steve27 09/Apr/11 AltLd
Monkey_Alan 24/Oct/10 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

tev 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

p1 Alan, p2 me.

with Alan B
jezb1 16/Oct/10 Lead

Lead P1, move near top of P1 felt 4b to me. Enjoyable.

The Ivanator 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Good route, felt fairly stiff for the technical grade, thought both pitches justified 4b. I led p2.

with Jez
Hidden 06/Oct/10 AltLd
gibsond 19/Sep/10 AltLd rpt

Lead first pitch. Much better than second pitch.

gibsond 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Andre lead first pitch and I lead second pitch. First pitch is the best. Nice move at the top of the first pitch.

Andre Clarke 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Darrell Gibson
Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
andyfeds 15/Aug/10 Lead rpt

I must remember not to place the size 3 camalot out of reach on the traverse!

with Jo W
risby 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Leon first pitch, me second. On second pitch, moderately difficult bit was accompanied by noticing my shoe lace was untied, my hand hitting the cliff to the sound of watch breaking ( i haven't worn one for several years, it was a snail) and turning my head into a bunch of dry plant that ended up down my throat. Much fun. I won in the end.

leonjones 01/Aug/10 AltLd

Me P1, Ris P2. Abismal rope management on my part.

Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead dnf
brian watson 14/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with gary mason
Julian Prieto 25/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

cliffy 25/May/10 AltLd O/S
andyfeds 03/May/10 Lead rpt

Finished up higgins to avoid traffic on "due care & attention". Earthy top seemed particularly loose today - otherwise lovely.

with Ed W
Monkey_Alan 11/Apr/10 AltLd rpt

Led 2nd pitch

with Cat Tabbner, Max Streeton
Richard Morgan 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 08/Aug/09 AltLd rpt

Lead 1st pitch

with Stella Moggs
uncontrollable 08/Aug/09 AltLd β

lead pitch 2 - alternate finish to the right

with bob
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd
leonjones 19/Jul/09 AltLd
Indy Nile 19/Jul/09 AltLd rpt

P1 me, P2 Leon

leonjones 04/Jul/09 AltLd
Indy Nile 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

P1 Leon, P2 me

MontyH 06/Jun/09 AltLd
with Paul Milton
Hidden ??/2009 -
Alaric 12/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

garywong 12/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch.

Hidden 08/Oct/08 Lead
Monkey_Alan 21/Sep/08 2nd
MontyH 30/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 11/Nov/07 AltLd
MontyH 18/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
Andy Chubb 16/Jun/07 Lead
with Mike Hewson
Hidden 14/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Ybot Htulk ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Dave
Rob Pitt ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 08/Oct/06 AltLd
five ?/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/06 AltLd
Gareth 05/Mar/06 AltLd O/S

Andrew lead first

with Andrew
kristofferalpsjo ?/Jan/06 Lead
with Toby Kluth
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
mart rich 28/Aug/05 AltLd O/S


with Steve Moody
Hidden 24/Aug/05 AltLd
Ybot Htulk ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Pete
Hidden 03/Apr/05 AltLd
brian watson ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/04 AltLd
pezzerrr 09/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
colin milton 14/Sep/03 Lead rpt
with Dave V
Hidden 04/Aug/03 AltLd
Alaric 19/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Karen B
Hidden 18/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/02 AltLd
aged_ape ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Rob B
andybenham ??/2001 -
climbtim ?/Nov/00 AltLd
with ghost
Hidden 14/May/00 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 23/May/99 -
Hidden 20/Apr/97 -
andyfeds 13/Apr/97 Lead rpt
with Shep
andyfeds 12/Oct/96 AltLd
with Andy C
Hidden ?/May/96 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
colin milton 18/Sep/94 AltLd dog
with eric milton
Hidden 09/Aug/93 2nd
Dave Musgrove 17/Mar/91 AltLd
with Pete Finklaire, Keith Bostrum
MoWalker3 16/Jun/89 -
Nigel Coe 22/Jul/84 Lead
with Ian Birch
Andy Chubb 10/May/80 AltLd
with Saxon Ridley
Nigel Coe ??/1977 AltLd
with Allan Yeend
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, jing, Hooo, lukerathmell, andycash, Hidden
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High 4c
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Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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