Awesome! The traverse in the 4th pitch is hard, but the second can be well protected from the overhang way above them. Great route otherwise, even when the scrambly vegetated start doesn't seem to suggest a 3star classic!
Tightsgirl - 2nd - 02/May/15 with Ali Rose
Great route. Still think that the crux move right out of the crack is pretty hard for 5a (even for the slabs!)
arose - Lead - 02/May/15 with Hannah Francis
great route. thought the 4th pitch was the hardest
arose - AltLd - 19/Apr/15 with Helen Rennard
plain kitten - 2015
jev - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Reuben
Led odd pitches plus Fiona did a wee pitch up to the start proper after failing to find the scramble.
Unfortunately I got a foot wet seconding the traverse and came off, grrr.
prog99 - AltLd dog - 14/Sep/14 with Fiona
Led 2 and 4 plus an extra pitch to find the start. Scoop and corner above lovely. Traverse on pitch 4 rather wet and very tenuous, very glad to get across it. Got Mike to move the belay up and send me some gear up after the traverse. Turns out I didn't actually need it but my nerves were a bit shot. Brilliant route.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Mike
Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/14
Had to bail as the weather crapped out big style. This happened just as Sam was on the crux, he finished the main pitch in the pouring rain, props to that man!
UncleMephisto - AltLd dnf - 26/Jul/14 with Sam Wainwright
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 26/Jul/14
Led 2 and 4
abbeywall - AltLd - 29/Jun/14 with K
Fantastic route. Ran pitch 2 and 3 together, rope drag made the scope a bit more interesting.
Tim Hamlet - Lead - 29/Jun/14 with Caroline dougal, Iain Smith
fizzycat - 2nd - 29/Jun/14
Led scoop pitch
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14
Ran first 2 pitches together. Lead pitch 4, very delicate moves on the traverse half way up pitch 4, and no sign of the ancient peg mentioned in the Glencoe guide.
joesmith - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14 with Nick, Jack
Slipped seconding the P4 traverse and slid slowly down before being caught by the rope!
JackM92 - AltLd - 30/May/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/14
Hidden - AltLd dnf - May/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14
mike mo - 2014
chris skipton - 2014
Hidden - AltLd - 2014
mzchambers - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Dave, Fioan
Hidden - AltLd dog - 29/Sep/13
Dave led the 2 5a pitches.
Bron - AltLd dog - 29/Sep/13 with Dave
I climbed the first hard pitch, then james led the second one. These two pitches were world class and gorgeous. The newer scottish guide sandbagged us at the top. Incredibly sketchy scrambling up heather with no decent holds or protection. After looking at the old guide, we realized that the new guide just got the top pitch wrong. Two sketchy abseils/ traverses eventually got us to the descent path but after an avoidable epic couple of hours.
hlegge - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with James Oakes
Led p3. The main pitches are fantastic climbing however would recommend climbing off right instead of the direct final pitch, the description and topo for this is very confusing (Scottish Rock) and we ended getting very off route and in a pretty dangerous position ended up abing diagonally to the descent path.
James Oakes - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Hamish Legge
Tim led first pitch, I led the rest. Lovely climbing on the 5a pitches.I thought the crux was the delicate traverse acoss on pitch 4....more like 5b, made more intimidating by the residual seepage on the slab at this point.My first visit to the Etive slabs.
Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Tim
Hidden - 11/Jul/13
Tubs - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Tim C
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13
traverse on p4 is spicy but a quality rote nonetheless
simon_D - AltLd - 26/May/13 with Ross
Led pitches 1 and 3, fell off the Scoop and left large chunk of right knee smeared over rock, but caught hold so still clean! Got back on feet and finished pitch. James couldn't face pitch 4 so abbed down.
stevelismore - AltLd dnf - 25/May/13 with James L
An early season ascent of Hammer and we paid for it by having to deal with alot of dampness! The quality pitches on this route are 3 and 4, both utterly superb. Beware the topo in Scottish Rock for pitch 5. The description says undercut the overlap but the topo directs you over it and up a lower portion of the headwall. Due to our confusion we ended up climbing the headwall in some pretty untravelled, exposed, 5b/c terrain and then a lot of heather pulling to reach the descent path! Unpleasant at the time but a suitably epic end to a great route.
John 'B' Hutchinson - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Stewart Rattray
Hidden - 2013
Hidden - 2013
bloody good climb
Ross Kirkland - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Simon Mathers
great smearing and laybacking need a competent second, which i had!
scott gibson - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with paul hainsworth
Led p 2 & 4. A lot of messing about trying to work out where to go on the last pitch: we were misled by the topo in the Gary Latter book, which is wrong & at odds with the description
cem - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Paul Bolton
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/12
Was planning on leading the fourth pitch but wussed out, sort of wish I'd got the third. Class route.
cookacat - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Dafydd
APRS - AltLd - 02/Jun/12 with Lawrence Furse
Led the two crux pitches, brilliant route with great variation!
Dafydd Llywelyn - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Alex Minshall
David Stevens - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Reuben Crook
crookachili - AltLd - 26/May/12 with Dave Stevens
Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/12
2 stars?!? more like 3, 4 if it was longer. I probably messed up the 'crux', as it felt pretty tricky. After that traverse there's a section that looks fairly gearless, but isn't. Safe as houses.
Euan Strachan - Lead - 25/May/12 with Simon T
Lead pitch 2 and 5. Slabs are hideous...
Elsier - AltLd O/S - 23/May/12 with Doug, Ian
Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/12
Lead 1st crux after some hestitation but chickened of the delicate step right on the following pitch
ianwb - AltLd dog - 23/May/12 with Doug, Elsie
olekemi - AltLd O/S - 20/May/12 with Mark G
Leonard Tedd - 29/Apr/12 with Danny Carden
Great route. Wet streaks in the middle of the crux traverse, and exiting the crux pitch.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 31/Mar/12 with Hannah Evans
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Mar/12
once established a very fine outing. http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/25-03-12-hammertrapeze-glen-etive-glen.html
PAJames - 24/Mar/12
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11
Ommuff - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with Rob, Toby Burrell
Lead all pitches up to and including scoop, which is fun. Crux pitch wet, parker led briliantly and i finished up the wrong (wet) line and took first leader fall and had to use point of aid. Descent in dark.
D_Wills - AltLd dog - 01/Jul/11
Led crux pitch, took a while to find right height to make the traverse.Real quality climbing up the scoop, corner and overlap.Sore toes/calves/bum muscle.
Sean Bell - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11 with Scott Elliott, James Dunn
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11
alkira - 2011
adie84 - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
lead 1st and rd pitch's then jamie had problems on the 4th so i starrped them on and dispatched that too. great route. finished in the dark
Harry Holmes - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Jamie Sparkes
pimpy - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with hertha
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Harry Holmes
jack_eadie - AltLd - 24/Sep/10
mikemartin - AltLd - 24/Sep/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10
good dry conditions and breezy enough to keep midgies at bay! the crux is the slabby traverse on p4of 5, not the scoop on p3 as the guidebook describes.
brianrunner - AltLd - 20/Jun/10 with martina
MonkeyDawson - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Simon, Liz Brooker
Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/10
A fine climb but don't forget the midge repellant. We got eaten alive at the top.
gjd - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Lesley Ann
Lead p2 & 5. Great route!
isi_o - AltLd O/S - 26/May/10 with Lorenzo
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10
fantastic route!!, traverse on pitch 4 was brilliant!
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with kevin mcgrath
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/10
The corner proper is excellent with technical and boldish slab crux moves, but the start and finish to the route is lacking. Linked p.1 and 2. Linked p.3 (wet at crux) with first part of p4. An overall humbling (bumbling) experience.
bnewman - AltLd O/S - 08/May/10 with danimal88
In the dark of Fri night and Sat morning
pete87abs - AltLd O/S - 08/May/10 with Dave Brigham, Richard Clarke
Night time ascent using headtorches! Simply outstanding!
dj_brigham05 - AltLd O/S - 07/May/10 with Rich Clarke, Pete Abernethy
in the dark. best climbing to date!
rclarke - AltLd - 07/May/10 with pete87abs, Dave Brigham
Hidden - 2nd - May/10
jaggy bunnet - AltLd - 29/Apr/10 with frazzy4
Clean apart from slip on (wet) 4th pitch. Led 1, 3 and 5. Bold traverses!
rcammack - AltLd - 17/Apr/10 with liam ingram
Lead pitches 2 and 4. Pitch 4 was wet in places and scary at the traverse! Also dropped a No 1 wallnut on the belay ledge before the scoop...
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Robbie Cammack
I led scoop, Jelle led traverse.
KeithAlexander - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Jelle Muylle
colinthrelfall - 2010
Hidden - 2010
Hidden - AltLd - 18/Sep/09
Confirmed my inability to climb slabs
s kennedy - AltLd - 18/Sep/09 with mark mosgrove
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09
Hidden - 2nd - Jul/09
benclimbing - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/09
Good intro to the slabs.Lower pitches are poor but interest increases with every pitch.
Alt leads Jimbobs start.
jazzyjackson - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Jimbob
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/09
Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/09
Neilm18 - AltLd O/S - 15/May/09 with Michael Mcghee
had a little slip while seconding... i blame the new shoes ;)
michael83 - AltLd - 15/May/09 with Neil
French Erick - AltLd O/S - 14/May/09 with Alex Heude
jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Hannah and Gilles
hwackerhage - 18/Apr/09 with Steve Holmes
mikemartin - AltLd - 17/Apr/09
joe larner - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/09
Got to pitch 4 and Neil had problems with the traverse right due to going up to far along the corner... will be back to claim it another day.
stuaart - 2nd dnf - 12/Apr/09 with Neil Redgrave
Valdres Fjellguider - 2009 with Andy Munro
jess - AltLd O/S - 2009 with martin
windy100 - 2009
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 2009
Hidden - AltLd - 07/Sep/08
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/08
Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/08
D.Russell - AltLd - 26/Jul/08 with Adam
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/08
adw07 - AltLd dog - 30/May/08 with Mark Jarvie
Hidden - AltLd - 25/May/08
another great rote. only two consistent pitches of hvs climbing. the scoop is very bold and delicate but good and the traverse is very airy!
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with paul
Paulww - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with Ryan
Callum T - AltLd - 14/May/08 with Kat Torr, Emily Ward
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/08
Lead 1,3 & 4 ... traverse from corner on pitch 4 'is' the obvious thin band for your feet. My partner was trying slightly higher up where there was some slight 'bumps' for your hands before backing off and swapping the lead.
Adam1973 - AltLd O/S - 09/May/08 with Big Ian
jaybob - AltLd - May/08 with russell
Classic! 5a traverse pitch was wet, made it a bit trickier
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/08 with Pete Hart
Scramble up to the start wasn't very scrambly, so pitched up to the the heathery ledge, were we in the wrong place)? Route its self was great with loads of laybaking up slabby corners, was like something you'd see in America. I got the scoop which was easy and was followed by 20m of lovely layback corner. Also climbed the 4th pitch after Tim came down not liking the bit of wet on the critical traverse; scary leaving the corner but the moves were fine once committed. An awesome route in an amazing location and much easier than I thought it would be, canny wait to get back for some e1s.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/08 with sandy, Tim Cross
Led 2nd. Led 4th upto the traverse, but couldn't commit to stepping across the wet streak on non-existent holds - terrified! Lowered off and Andy climbed it like a pro.
beegsyboy - AltLd - 20/Apr/08 with Sandy + Andy
westaway - Lead O/S - Apr/08
sgl - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/08 with helena
Russ82 - 2008
Russ82 - 2008
Fantastic. "The scoop" is purely psychological, but the corner afterwards is pure enjoyment! And the crux traverse is astonishingly unnerving with a wet streak down it!
PeteH - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Lawrie Brand
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008
TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
Hidden - AltLd - 2008
figfour - Lead - 2008 with dave
Climb itself was great fun, and went quickly. Unfortunately I had an attack of stupid at the top and missed the walk off path, ended up on an epic trying to finish up the overhanging headwall! Numpty.
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Ally Hill
Henning lead the 2 crux pitches, I lead the ones before and after this
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2008 with Henning
Captain Solo - AltLd - 26/Sep/07 with Ewan
jaybob - AltLd - Sep/07 with ally
Boistelle - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Guy Stevens
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07
mike71 - Lead - May/07 with antonia
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/07
timothee - AltLd - Apr/07
alan wilson - 2007
Hidden - 2007
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/06 with Miguel Ciriza, Garry Hugh
ollybowman - AltLd - 22/Aug/06 with Tomas
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/06
barney_edin - AltLd - 04/Jul/06 with Kati
a_hein - Lead O/S - Jul/06
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/06
joe king - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/06 with steve petit
steveP - AltLd rpt - Jun/06 with Paul Rowlands
gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - May/06 with Steev
I had 2 falls on the scoop pitch.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd dog - May/06 with Tim
steev - 29/Apr/06 with Gaz
jim.macp - 29/Apr/06
fireman_al - Lead O/S - Mar/06 with Paul McDonald
jim robertson - 2006
john irving - 2006
Neil Adams - AltLd - 2006 with Andy Inglis
dangates - 2006 with Tim Darlow
steveP - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/05 with Simon Flower
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/05
Lead crux on third attempt
Jamie B - AltLd - May/05 with Rich Parker
Hidden - 2nd - 03/Apr/05
Sandy P - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Will Cadell
akhughes - AltLd - 2005
Grim, hot, showery, midgey day.
alan moore - 2005
dave o - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/04 with Julia H
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/04
Paul L - Lead - Sep/04
John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/04 with Zac Poulton
Hidden - AltLd - 31/Mar/04
andyinglis - AltLd - 2004
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/03
Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/03 with Laura
Outstanding route, but thought it was 5a? Despite the notoriety of the Scoop pitch, the following pitch is the crux. Take care on the descent not to dislodge loose stones on other climbers.
220bpm - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/03 with Snowboarder
snowboarder - 2nd - 19/Apr/03 with Mark
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2003
BRUCESTRAC - 2003 with Chris Cracknell,Various
phardman - Lead O/S - 04/May/02
IanMcC - AltLd - 06/Apr/02 with Ewan Moffat
Had a proper epic. I would recommend doing Spartan Slabs first if you haven't climbed here or somewhere similar before. Despite my little epic, I can still see that Hammer is a real classic.
Andy S - AltLd dog - Apr/02 with Keith
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/01
Dave Kerr - AltLd - 15/May/01 with Karl Atherton
Hidden - AltLd - 06/May/01
frost - AltLd - Mar/01 with J Hubbard
graeme gatherer - 2000
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - Lead O/S - 2000
Hidden - AltLd - 1999
jcw - 1999 with Simon Richardson
Hidden - AltLd - Oct/98
Jamie B - 2nd - Aug/98 with Pete Morgan
Superb line, brilliant climbing, one of my favourite routes ever. Retired bloke in front of us had brought along a 20something to lead the hard bits. The lad failed on them and the old guy had to make his first HVS lead. He cruised them.
Iain Thow - Lead - 24/Jun/95 with Liz Jolley
auld al - AltLd O/S - May/95
Evoman - Jun/94 with Kev T
Hidden - Lead - May/92
Yourlead - 2nd - 15/Oct/91 with Graham Penny
Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/91
babymoac - Lead - 05/Jul/91 with Howard
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/90
and steve williams
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 23/May/90 with steve williams, brian jones
graham lawrie - Solo - 1990
uphillnow - 1990
RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/89 with Angel Vila
Neil Henderson - Lead - May/89 with Martin McLoughlin
amcleish - 1988
Hidden - AltLd - 1988
Moses - AltLd - 18/Aug/86
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead O/S - May/86 with Jean Williamson
Falko - AltLd - 1985 with Howard Lancashire
mark-abz - Lead - 15/Jul/84 with Liam M
Hairy Welshman - 2nd dnf - 1984 with Ross Robinson
Hidden - AltLd - 04/May/80
Chris Craggs - 1980
Back at the Loch, triumphant, we brewed up with water from the Loch, discovering it was part of the Atlantic Ocean !
rogerskews - 12/Jun/79 with Keith Jenkins
Nigel Bond - Lead - 27/May/79 with Martin Crosby
Lord of Starkness - AltLd O/S - Apr/78 with Dave Bowen
Soloed up to traverse and sensibly got a rope across the travers
Lone Rider - Solo - 1978
neil3965 - Lead - Jul/77 with Julie Blythe
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/76
A fine route once we had found it,super impressive cliff
Peter Main - 2nd - 09/Jun/76 with Pete Long & Les Berrow
petemeads - Lead - 29/Oct/74
pneame - AltLd O/S - 1973 with Eric Holligan
Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/68