|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
gregor, kenny o'brien
Scott, Tim E
Crux pitch wet streak, didn't fancy smearing, so used tension traverse to reach good hold below cracks. Great route once on it, shame about the veg approach scramble (stuck cam), dampness
Nice route but not in the same league as Pause etc. Good luck finding a way to scramble to the base...
Awesome! The traverse in the 4th pitch is hard, but the second can be well protected from the overhang way above them. Great route otherwise, even when the scrambly vegetated start doesn't seem to suggest a 3star classic!
Great route. Still think that the crux move right out of the crack is pretty hard for 5a (even for the slabs!)
great route. thought the 4th pitch was the hardest
Led odd pitches plus Fiona did a wee pitch up to the start proper after failing to find the scramble. Unfortunately I got a foot wet seconding the traverse and came off, grrr.
|Fiona Reid||14/Sep/14||AltLd O/S||
Led 2 and 4 plus an extra pitch to find the start. Scoop and corner above lovely. Traverse on pitch 4 rather wet and very tenuous, very glad to get across it. Got Mike to move the belay up and send me some gear up after the traverse. Turns out I didn't actually need it but my nerves were a bit shot. Brilliant route.
Had to bail as the weather crapped out big style. This happened just as Sam was on the crux, he finished the main pitch in the pouring rain, props to that man!
|Samuel Wainwright||26/Jul/14||AltLd dnf||
Had to bail after crux due to downpour. Favour was no longer smiling on the boys! Went wrong finding the start climbing through hanging gardens. Quality!
Led 2 and 4
Fantastic route. Ran pitch 2 and 3 together, rope drag made the scope a bit more interesting.
Caroline dougal, Iain Smith
Iain Smith, Tim Hamlet
|Graham Westbrook||21/Jun/14||AltLd O/S||
Led scoop pitch
Ran first 2 pitches together. Lead pitch 4, very delicate moves on the traverse half way up pitch 4, and no sign of the ancient peg mentioned in the Glencoe guide.
Slipped seconding the P4 traverse and slid slowly down before being caught by the rope!
Dave led the 2 5a pitches.
I climbed the first hard pitch, then james led the second one. These two pitches were world class and gorgeous. The newer scottish guide sandbagged us at the top. Incredibly sketchy scrambling up heather with no decent holds or protection. After looking at the old guide, we realized that the new guide just got the top pitch wrong. Two sketchy abseils/ traverses eventually got us to the descent path but after an avoidable epic couple of hours.
|James Oakes||28/Aug/13||AltLd O/S||
Led p3. The main pitches are fantastic climbing however would recommend climbing off right instead of the direct final pitch, the description and topo for this is very confusing (Scottish Rock) and we ended getting very off route and in a pretty dangerous position ended up abing diagonally to the descent path.
|Andrew Sloan||14/Jul/13||Lead O/S||
Tim led first pitch, I led the rest. Lovely climbing on the 5a pitches.I thought the crux was the delicate traverse acoss on pitch 4....more like 5b, made more intimidating by the residual seepage on the slab at this point.My first visit to the Etive slabs.
traverse on p4 is spicy but a quality rote nonetheless
Led pitches 1 and 3, fell off the Scoop and left large chunk of right knee smeared over rock, but caught hold so still clean! Got back on feet and finished pitch. James couldn't face pitch 4 so abbed down.
|John 'B' Hutchinson||28/Apr/13||AltLd O/S||
An early season ascent of Hammer and we paid for it by having to deal with alot of dampness! The quality pitches on this route are 3 and 4, both utterly superb. Beware the topo in Scottish Rock for pitch 5. The description says undercut the overlap but the topo directs you over it and up a lower portion of the headwall. Due to our confusion we ended up climbing the headwall in some pretty untravelled, exposed, 5b/c terrain and then a lot of heather pulling to reach the descent path! Unpleasant at the time but a suitably epic end to a great route.
|Ross Kirkland||??/2013||AltLd O/S||
bloody good climb
|scott gibson||14/Aug/12||Lead O/S||
great smearing and laybacking need a competent second, which i had!
Led p 2 & 4. A lot of messing about trying to work out where to go on the last pitch: we were misled by the topo in the Gary Latter book, which is wrong & at odds with the description
Was planning on leading the fourth pitch but wussed out, sort of wish I'd got the third. Class route.
|Dafydd Llywelyn||02/Jun/12||AltLd O/S||
Led the two crux pitches, brilliant route with great variation!
|David Stevens||26/May/12||AltLd O/S||
2 stars?!? more like 3, 4 if it was longer. I probably messed up the 'crux', as it felt pretty tricky. After that traverse there's a section that looks fairly gearless, but isn't. Safe as houses.
Lead pitch 2 and 5. Slabs are hideous...
Lead 1st crux after some hestitation but chickened of the delicate step right on the following pitch
Great route. Wet streaks in the middle of the crux traverse, and exiting the crux pitch.
once established a very fine outing. http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/25-03-12-hammertrapeze-glen-etive-glen.html
|Steven Carter||??/2012||Lead O/S|
Rob, Toby Burrell
Lead all pitches up to and including scoop, which is fun. Crux pitch wet, parker led briliantly and i finished up the wrong (wet) line and took first leader fall and had to use point of aid. Descent in dark.
|Sean Bell||02/May/11||AltLd O/S||
Led crux pitch, took a while to find right height to make the traverse.Real quality climbing up the scoop, corner and overlap.Sore toes/calves/bum muscle.
Scott Elliott, James Dunn
|Harry Holmes||25/Sep/10||AltLd O/S||
lead 1st and rd pitch's then jamie had problems on the 4th so i starrped them on and dispatched that too. great route. finished in the dark
good dry conditions and breezy enough to keep midgies at bay! the crux is the slabby traverse on p4of 5, not the scoop on p3 as the guidebook describes.
Simon, Liz Brooker
A fine climb but don't forget the midge repellant. We got eaten alive at the top.
Lead p2 & 5. Great route!
|Ginger McGrath||24/May/10||AltLd O/S||
fantastic route!!, traverse on pitch 4 was brilliant!
The corner proper is excellent with technical and boldish slab crux moves, but the start and finish to the route is lacking. Linked p.1 and 2. Linked p.3 (wet at crux) with first part of p4. An overall humbling (bumbling) experience.
In the dark of Fri night and Sat morning
Night time ascent using headtorches! Simply outstanding!
in the dark. best climbing to date!
Clean apart from slip on (wet) 4th pitch. Led 1, 3 and 5. Bold traverses!
|Liam Ingram||16/Apr/10||AltLd O/S||
Lead pitches 2 and 4. Pitch 4 was wet in places and scary at the traverse! Also dropped a No 1 wallnut on the belay ledge before the scoop...
I led scoop, Jelle led traverse.
Confirmed my inability to climb slabs
Good intro to the slabs.Lower pitches are poor but interest increases with every pitch. Alt leads Jimbobs start.
had a little slip while seconding... i blame the new shoes ;)
|French Erick||14/May/09||AltLd O/S||
Hannah and Gilles
|joe larner||17/Apr/09||AltLd O/S|
Got to pitch 4 and Neil had problems with the traverse right due to going up to far along the corner... will be back to claim it another day.
another great rote. only two consistent pitches of hvs climbing. the scoop is very bold and delicate but good and the traverse is very airy!
Kat Torr, Emily Ward
Lead 1,3 & 4 ... traverse from corner on pitch 4 'is' the obvious thin band for your feet. My partner was trying slightly higher up where there was some slight 'bumps' for your hands before backing off and swapping the lead.
|Lawrie Brand||21/Apr/08||AltLd O/S||
Classic! 5a traverse pitch was wet, made it a bit trickier
Scramble up to the start wasn't very scrambly, so pitched up to the the heathery ledge, were we in the wrong place)? Route its self was great with loads of laybaking up slabby corners, was like something you'd see in America. I got the scoop which was easy and was followed by 20m of lovely layback corner. Also climbed the 4th pitch after Tim came down not liking the bit of wet on the critical traverse; scary leaving the corner but the moves were fine once committed. An awesome route in an amazing location and much easier than I thought it would be, canny wait to get back for some e1s.
sandy, Tim Cross
Led 2nd. Led 4th upto the traverse, but couldn't commit to stepping across the wet streak on non-existent holds - terrified! Lowered off and Andy climbed it like a pro.
Sandy + Andy
Fantastic. "The scoop" is purely psychological, but the corner afterwards is pure enjoyment! And the crux traverse is astonishingly unnerving with a wet streak down it!
VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
|Dr Toph||??/2008||AltLd O/S||
Climb itself was great fun, and went quickly. Unfortunately I had an attack of stupid at the top and missed the walk off path, ended up on an epic trying to finish up the overhanging headwall! Numpty.
Henning lead the 2 crux pitches, I lead the ones before and after this
Miguel Ciriza, Garry Hugh
|joe king||05/Jun/06||AltLd O/S||
I had 2 falls on the scoop pitch.
Lead crux on third attempt
|Sandy P||??/2005||AltLd O/S||
Grim, hot, showery, midgey day.
|dave o||10/Sep/04||Lead O/S|
|John Pickles||31/Mar/04||AltLd O/S|
|Stuart Macfarlane||31/Aug/03||AltLd O/S||
Outstanding route, but thought it was 5a? Despite the notoriety of the Scoop pitch, the following pitch is the crux. Take care on the descent not to dislodge loose stones on other climbers.
|Andy S||?/Apr/02||AltLd dog||
Had a proper epic. I would recommend doing Spartan Slabs first if you haven't climbed here or somewhere similar before. Despite my little epic, I can still see that Hammer is a real classic.
|Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor||??/2000||Lead O/S|
Superb line, brilliant climbing, one of my favourite routes ever. Retired bloke in front of us had brought along a 20something to lead the hard bits. The lad failed on them and the old guy had to make his first HVS lead. He cruised them.
|auld al||?/May/95||AltLd O/S|
|michael burrows||23/May/90||AltLd O/S||
and steve williams
steve williams, brian jones
i led he scoop, found the traverrse (p4) hard
|Paula Hamilton-Gibson||?/May/86||Lead O/S||
|Hairy Welshman||??/1984||2nd dnf||
Back at the Loch, triumphant, we brewed up with water from the Loch, discovering it was part of the Atlantic Ocean !
|Lord of Starkness||?/Apr/78||AltLd O/S||
Soloed up to traverse and sensibly got a rope across the travers
A fine route once we had found it,super impressive cliff
Pete Long & Les Berrow