Outstanding route climbing the great corner in the middle of the crag. Despite the notoriety of the Scoop pitch, the subsequent pitch is the crux. Lovely climbing but on the descent take care not to dislodge loose rocks onto other climbers.

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, Best slab climbs of the UK, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Top Five HVSs In The UK?.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
glenngordon 01/Oct Lead O/S
gregor, kenny o'brien
Hidden 28/Sep AltLd O/S
oliverk 19/Sep AltLd
Scott, Tim E
herrettscott 19/Sep AltLd dog

Crux pitch wet streak, didn't fancy smearing, so used tension traverse to reach good hold below cracks. Great route once on it, shame about the veg approach scramble (stuck cam), dampness

tomdude 02/Sep Lead O/S

Nice route but not in the same league as Pause etc. Good luck finding a way to scramble to the base...

marie_p 02/Sep 2nd
dav_713 09/Jul -
Andy Hague
Hidden 09/Jul AltLd
james1978 08/Jul AltLd O/S
Tightsgirl 02/May 2nd

Awesome! The traverse in the 4th pitch is hard, but the second can be well protected from the overhang way above them. Great route otherwise, even when the scrambly vegetated start doesn't seem to suggest a 3star classic!

arose 02/May Lead

Great route. Still think that the crux move right out of the crack is pretty hard for 5a (even for the slabs!)

arose 19/Apr AltLd

great route. thought the 4th pitch was the hardest

Helen Rennard
plain kitten ??/2015 -
jev 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Mike-W-99 14/Sep/14 AltLd dog

Led odd pitches plus Fiona did a wee pitch up to the start proper after failing to find the scramble. Unfortunately I got a foot wet seconding the traverse and came off, grrr.

Fiona Reid 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2 and 4 plus an extra pitch to find the start. Scoop and corner above lovely. Traverse on pitch 4 rather wet and very tenuous, very glad to get across it. Got Mike to move the belay up and send me some gear up after the traverse. Turns out I didn't actually need it but my nerves were a bit shot. Brilliant route.

Hidden 01/Sep/14 Lead
UncleMephisto 26/Jul/14 AltLd dnf

Had to bail as the weather crapped out big style. This happened just as Sam was on the crux, he finished the main pitch in the pouring rain, props to that man!

Samuel Wainwright 26/Jul/14 AltLd dnf

Had to bail after crux due to downpour. Favour was no longer smiling on the boys! Went wrong finding the start climbing through hanging gardens. Quality!

abbeywall 29/Jun/14 AltLd

Led 2 and 4

Tim Hamlet 29/Jun/14 Lead

Fantastic route. Ran pitch 2 and 3 together, rope drag made the scope a bit more interesting.

Caroline dougal, Iain Smith
fizzycat 29/Jun/14 2nd
Iain Smith, Tim Hamlet
Graham Westbrook 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led scoop pitch

joesmith 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Ran first 2 pitches together. Lead pitch 4, very delicate moves on the traverse half way up pitch 4, and no sign of the ancient peg mentioned in the Glencoe guide.

Nick, Jack
JackM92 30/May/14 AltLd

Slipped seconding the P4 traverse and slid slowly down before being caught by the rope!

Hidden 30/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
chris skipton ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 AltLd
mzchambers 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 2,4,5

Dave, Fioan
Hidden 29/Sep/13 AltLd dog
Bron 29/Sep/13 AltLd dog

Dave led the 2 5a pitches.

hlegge 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I climbed the first hard pitch, then james led the second one. These two pitches were world class and gorgeous. The newer scottish guide sandbagged us at the top. Incredibly sketchy scrambling up heather with no decent holds or protection. After looking at the old guide, we realized that the new guide just got the top pitch wrong. Two sketchy abseils/ traverses eventually got us to the descent path but after an avoidable epic couple of hours.

James Oakes 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led p3. The main pitches are fantastic climbing however would recommend climbing off right instead of the direct final pitch, the description and topo for this is very confusing (Scottish Rock) and we ended getting very off route and in a pretty dangerous position ended up abing diagonally to the descent path.

Andrew Sloan 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Tim led first pitch, I led the rest. Lovely climbing on the 5a pitches.I thought the crux was the delicate traverse acoss on pitch 4....more like 5b, made more intimidating by the residual seepage on the slab at this point.My first visit to the Etive slabs.

Hidden 11/Jul/13 -
Tubs 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
simon_D 26/May/13 AltLd

traverse on p4 is spicy but a quality rote nonetheless

stevelismore 25/May/13 AltLd dnf

Led pitches 1 and 3, fell off the Scoop and left large chunk of right knee smeared over rock, but caught hold so still clean! Got back on feet and finished pitch. James couldn't face pitch 4 so abbed down.

John 'B' Hutchinson 28/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

An early season ascent of Hammer and we paid for it by having to deal with alot of dampness! The quality pitches on this route are 3 and 4, both utterly superb. Beware the topo in Scottish Rock for pitch 5. The description says undercut the overlap but the topo directs you over it and up a lower portion of the headwall. Due to our confusion we ended up climbing the headwall in some pretty untravelled, exposed, 5b/c terrain and then a lot of heather pulling to reach the descent path! Unpleasant at the time but a suitably epic end to a great route.

Stewart Rattray
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Ross Kirkland ??/2013 AltLd O/S

bloody good climb

Simon Mathers
scott gibson 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S

great smearing and laybacking need a competent second, which i had!

paul hainsworth
cem 03/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led p 2 & 4. A lot of messing about trying to work out where to go on the last pitch: we were misled by the topo in the Gary Latter book, which is wrong & at odds with the description

Hidden 03/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
cookacat 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Was planning on leading the fourth pitch but wussed out, sort of wish I'd got the third. Class route.

APRS 02/Jun/12 AltLd
Lawrence Furse
Dafydd Llywelyn 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led the two crux pitches, brilliant route with great variation!

David Stevens 26/May/12 AltLd O/S
Reuben Crook
crookachili 26/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Euan Strachan 25/May/12 Lead

2 stars?!? more like 3, 4 if it was longer. I probably messed up the 'crux', as it felt pretty tricky. After that traverse there's a section that looks fairly gearless, but isn't. Safe as houses.

Simon T
Elsier 23/May/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 and 5. Slabs are hideous...

Doug, Ian
Hidden 23/May/12 2nd
ianwb 23/May/12 AltLd dog

Lead 1st crux after some hestitation but chickened of the delicate step right on the following pitch

Doug, Elsie
olekemi 20/May/12 AltLd O/S
Mark G
Leonard Tedd 29/Apr/12 -
Danny Carden
Ken Applegate 31/Mar/12 AltLd

Great route. Wet streaks in the middle of the crux traverse, and exiting the crux pitch.

Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd
PAJames 24/Mar/12 -

once established a very fine outing. http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/25-03-12-hammertrapeze-glen-etive-glen.html

Hidden ??/2012 -
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Natalie feather ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
dan doran 14/Jul/11 AltLd
Ommuff 03/Jul/11 AltLd
Rob, Toby Burrell
D_Wills 01/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Lead all pitches up to and including scoop, which is fun. Crux pitch wet, parker led briliantly and i finished up the wrong (wet) line and took first leader fall and had to use point of aid. Descent in dark.

Sean Bell 02/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch, took a while to find right height to make the traverse.Real quality climbing up the scoop, corner and overlap.Sore toes/calves/bum muscle.

Scott Elliott, James Dunn
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
alkira ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Harry Holmes 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

lead 1st and rd pitch's then jamie had problems on the 4th so i starrped them on and dispatched that too. great route. finished in the dark

pimpy 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
JamieSparkes 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
jack_eadie 24/Sep/10 AltLd
mikemartin 24/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
brianrunner 20/Jun/10 AltLd

good dry conditions and breezy enough to keep midgies at bay! the crux is the slabby traverse on p4of 5, not the scoop on p3 as the guidebook describes.

MonkeyDawson 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Class route

Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd
gjd 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

A fine climb but don't forget the midge repellant. We got eaten alive at the top.

isi_o 26/May/10 AltLd O/S

Lead p2 & 5. Great route!

Hidden 25/May/10 AltLd O/S
Ginger McGrath 24/May/10 AltLd O/S

fantastic route!!, traverse on pitch 4 was brilliant!

kevin mcgrath
bnewman 08/May/10 AltLd O/S

The corner proper is excellent with technical and boldish slab crux moves, but the start and finish to the route is lacking. Linked p.1 and 2. Linked p.3 (wet at crux) with first part of p4. An overall humbling (bumbling) experience.

pete87abs 08/May/10 AltLd O/S

In the dark of Fri night and Sat morning

dj_brigham05 07/May/10 AltLd O/S

Night time ascent using headtorches! Simply outstanding!

rclarke 07/May/10 AltLd

in the dark. best climbing to date!

Hidden ?/May/10 2nd
jaggy bunnet 29/Apr/10 AltLd
rcammack 17/Apr/10 AltLd

Clean apart from slip on (wet) 4th pitch. Led 1, 3 and 5. Bold traverses!

Liam Ingram 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 and 4. Pitch 4 was wet in places and scary at the traverse! Also dropped a No 1 wallnut on the belay ledge before the scoop...

KeithAlexander 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

I led scoop, Jelle led traverse.

colinthrelfall ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 18/Sep/09 AltLd
s kennedy 18/Sep/09 AltLd

Confirmed my inability to climb slabs

mark mosgrove
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
benclimbing 09/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
jazzyjackson 02/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Good intro to the slabs.Lower pitches are poor but interest increases with every pitch. Alt leads Jimbobs start.

Hidden 17/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/09 2nd
Neilm18 15/May/09 AltLd O/S
Michael Mcghee
michael83 15/May/09 AltLd

had a little slip while seconding... i blame the new shoes ;)

French Erick 14/May/09 AltLd O/S
Alex Heude
jonnie3430 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hannah and Gilles
hwackerhage 18/Apr/09 -
Steve Holmes
mikemartin 17/Apr/09 AltLd
joe larner 17/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
stuaart 12/Apr/09 2nd dnf

Got to pitch 4 and Neil had problems with the traverse right due to going up to far along the corner... will be back to claim it another day.

Neil Redgrave
Jamie Simpson ??/2009 -
Andy Munro
jess ??/2009 AltLd O/S
windy100 ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd rpt
Hidden 07/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd
D.Russell 26/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
adw07 30/May/08 AltLd dog
Hidden 25/May/08 AltLd
mulletcocktail2000 24/May/08 AltLd O/S

another great rote. only two consistent pitches of hvs climbing. the scoop is very bold and delicate but good and the traverse is very airy!

Paulww 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
Callum T 14/May/08 AltLd
Kat Torr, Emily Ward
Hidden 12/May/08 AltLd O/S
Adam1973 09/May/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 1,3 & 4 ... traverse from corner on pitch 4 'is' the obvious thin band for your feet. My partner was trying slightly higher up where there was some slight 'bumps' for your hands before backing off and swapping the lead.

Big Ian
jaybob ?/May/08 AltLd
Lawrie Brand 21/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Classic! 5a traverse pitch was wet, made it a bit trickier

andymoin 20/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Scramble up to the start wasn't very scrambly, so pitched up to the the heathery ledge, were we in the wrong place)? Route its self was great with loads of laybaking up slabby corners, was like something you'd see in America. I got the scoop which was easy and was followed by 20m of lovely layback corner. Also climbed the 4th pitch after Tim came down not liking the bit of wet on the critical traverse; scary leaving the corner but the moves were fine once committed. An awesome route in an amazing location and much easier than I thought it would be, canny wait to get back for some e1s.

sandy, Tim Cross
beegsyboy 20/Apr/08 AltLd

Led 2nd. Led 4th upto the traverse, but couldn't commit to stepping across the wet streak on non-existent holds - terrified! Lowered off and Andy climbed it like a pro.

Sandy + Andy
westaway ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
sgl 17/Feb/08 AltLd O/S


Russ82 ??/2008 -
Russ82 ??/2008 -
PeteH ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Fantastic. "The scoop" is purely psychological, but the corner afterwards is pure enjoyment! And the crux traverse is astonishingly unnerving with a wet streak down it!

Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
figfour ??/2008 Lead
Dr Toph ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Climb itself was great fun, and went quickly. Unfortunately I had an attack of stupid at the top and missed the walk off path, ended up on an epic trying to finish up the overhanging headwall! Numpty.

Ally Hill
CurlyStevo ??/2008 AltLd

Henning lead the 2 crux pitches, I lead the ones before and after this

Captain Solo 26/Sep/07 AltLd
jaybob ?/Sep/07 AltLd
Boistelle 31/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Guy Stevens
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
mike71 ?/May/07 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
timothee ?/Apr/07 AltLd
alan wilson ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
jamestheyip 17/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Miguel Ciriza, Garry Hugh
ollybowman 22/Aug/06 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/06 Lead O/S
barney_edin 04/Jul/06 AltLd
a_hein ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/06 2nd O/S
joe king 05/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
steve petit
steveP ?/Jun/06 AltLd rpt
gaz.marshall ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
HIGHTOWER ?/May/06 AltLd dog

I had 2 falls on the scoop pitch.

steev 29/Apr/06 -
jim.macp 29/Apr/06 -
fireman_al ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Paul McDonald
jim robertson ??/2006 -
john irving ??/2006 -
Neil Adams ??/2006 AltLd
dangates ??/2006 -
Tim Darlow
steveP 03/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Simon Flower
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Jamie B ?/May/05 AltLd

Lead crux on third attempt

Rich Parker
Hidden 03/Apr/05 2nd
Sandy P ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Will Cadell
akhughes ??/2005 AltLd
alan moore ??/2005 -

Grim, hot, showery, midgey day.

dave o 10/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/04 2nd O/S
Paul L ?/Sep/04 Lead
John Pickles 31/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/04 AltLd
andyinglis ??/2004 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
Stuart Macfarlane 31/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
220bpm 19/Apr/03 Lead O/S

Outstanding route, but thought it was 5a? Despite the notoriety of the Scoop pitch, the following pitch is the crux. Take care on the descent not to dislodge loose stones on other climbers.

snowboarder 19/Apr/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 2nd O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/2003 -
Chris Cracknell,Various
phardman 04/May/02 Lead O/S
IanMcC 06/Apr/02 AltLd
Ewan Moffat
Andy S ?/Apr/02 AltLd dog

Had a proper epic. I would recommend doing Spartan Slabs first if you haven't climbed here or somewhere similar before. Despite my little epic, I can still see that Hammer is a real classic.

Hidden ?/Jun/01 AltLd
Dave Kerr 15/May/01 AltLd
Karl Atherton
Hidden 06/May/01 AltLd
frost ?/Mar/01 AltLd
J Hubbard
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
jcw ??/1999 -
Simon Richardson
Hidden ?/Oct/98 AltLd
Jamie B ?/Aug/98 2nd
Pete Morgan
Hidden 30/May/98 AltLd O/S
Iain Thow 24/Jun/95 Lead

Superb line, brilliant climbing, one of my favourite routes ever. Retired bloke in front of us had brought along a 20something to lead the hard bits. The lad failed on them and the old guy had to make his first HVS lead. He cruised them.

Liz Jolley
auld al ?/May/95 AltLd O/S
Evoman ?/Jun/94 -
Kev T
Hidden ?/May/92 Lead
Yourlead 15/Oct/91 2nd
Graham Penny
Hidden ?/Oct/91 Lead O/S
babymoac 05/Jul/91 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/90 AltLd
michael burrows 23/May/90 AltLd O/S

and steve williams

steve williams, brian jones
graham lawrie ??/1990 Solo
uphillnow ??/1990 -
lithos ??/1990 AltLd

i led he scoop, found the traverrse (p4) hard

john byrne
RichardMc 03/Jun/89 AltLd O/S
Angel Vila
Neil Henderson ?/May/89 Lead
Martin McLoughlin
amcleish ??/1988 -
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Moses 18/Aug/86 AltLd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/86 Lead O/S
Jean Williamson
Hidden ??/1986 AltLd
Falko ??/1985 AltLd
Howard Lancashire
mark-abz 15/Jul/84 Lead
Liam M
Hairy Welshman ??/1984 2nd dnf
Ross Robinson
Hidden 04/May/80 AltLd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
rogerskews 12/Jun/79 -

Back at the Loch, triumphant, we brewed up with water from the Loch, discovering it was part of the Atlantic Ocean !

Keith Jenkins
Nigel Bond 27/May/79 Lead
Martin Crosby
Lord of Starkness ?/Apr/78 AltLd O/S
Dave Bowen
Lone Rider ??/1978 Solo

Soloed up to traverse and sensibly got a rope across the travers

neil3965 ?/Jul/77 Lead
Julie Blythe
Hidden 30/Aug/76 AltLd
Peter Main 09/Jun/76 2nd

A fine route once we had found it,super impressive cliff

Pete Long & Les Berrow
petemeads 29/Oct/74 Lead
pneame ??/1973 AltLd O/S
Eric Holligan
Hidden 09/Jun/68 Lead
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 66
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 65
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set