Hammer** HVS 5a
[Layback crack above the Scoop. Crux traverse above, 2 kb]Outstanding route climbing the great corner in the middle of the crag. Despite the notoriety of the Scoop pitch, the subsequent pitch is the crux. Lovely climbing but on the descent take care not to dislodge loose rocks onto other climbers.

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, Best slab climbs of the UK, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Top Five HVSs In The UK?.

Photo: Layback crack above the Scoop. Crux traverse above © Leonard Tedd
View all 29 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 238 logbooks, and on 123 wishlists.

dav_713 - 09/Jul/15 with Andy Hague

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jul/15

james1978 - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/15

Awesome! The traverse in the 4th pitch is hard, but the second can be well protected from the overhang way above them. Great route otherwise, even when the scrambly vegetated start doesn't seem to suggest a 3star classic!
Tightsgirl - 2nd - 02/May/15 with Ali Rose

Great route. Still think that the crux move right out of the crack is pretty hard for 5a (even for the slabs!)
arose - Lead - 02/May/15 with Hannah Francis

great route. thought the 4th pitch was the hardest
arose - AltLd - 19/Apr/15 with Helen Rennard

plain kitten - 2015

jev - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Reuben

Led odd pitches plus Fiona did a wee pitch up to the start proper after failing to find the scramble. Unfortunately I got a foot wet seconding the traverse and came off, grrr.
Mike-W-99 - AltLd dog - 14/Sep/14 with Fiona

Led 2 and 4 plus an extra pitch to find the start. Scoop and corner above lovely. Traverse on pitch 4 rather wet and very tenuous, very glad to get across it. Got Mike to move the belay up and send me some gear up after the traverse. Turns out I didn't actually need it but my nerves were a bit shot. Brilliant route.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Mike

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/14

Had to bail as the weather crapped out big style. This happened just as Sam was on the crux, he finished the main pitch in the pouring rain, props to that man!
UncleMephisto - AltLd dnf - 26/Jul/14 with Sam Wainwright

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 26/Jul/14

Led 2 and 4
abbeywall - AltLd - 29/Jun/14 with K

Fantastic route. Ran pitch 2 and 3 together, rope drag made the scope a bit more interesting.
Tim Hamlet - Lead - 29/Jun/14 with Caroline dougal, Iain Smith

fizzycat - 2nd - 29/Jun/14 with Iain Smith, Tim Hamlet

Led scoop pitch
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14

Ran first 2 pitches together. Lead pitch 4, very delicate moves on the traverse half way up pitch 4, and no sign of the ancient peg mentioned in the Glencoe guide.
joesmith - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14 with Nick, Jack

Slipped seconding the P4 traverse and slid slowly down before being caught by the rope!
JackM92 - AltLd - 30/May/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/14

Hidden - AltLd dnf - May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

mike mo - 2014

chris skipton - 2014

Hidden - AltLd - 2014

Lead 2,4,5
mzchambers - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Dave, Fioan

Hidden - AltLd dog - 29/Sep/13

Dave led the 2 5a pitches.
Bron - AltLd dog - 29/Sep/13 with Dave

I climbed the first hard pitch, then james led the second one. These two pitches were world class and gorgeous. The newer scottish guide sandbagged us at the top. Incredibly sketchy scrambling up heather with no decent holds or protection. After looking at the old guide, we realized that the new guide just got the top pitch wrong. Two sketchy abseils/ traverses eventually got us to the descent path but after an avoidable epic couple of hours.
hlegge - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with James Oakes

Led p3. The main pitches are fantastic climbing however would recommend climbing off right instead of the direct final pitch, the description and topo for this is very confusing (Scottish Rock) and we ended getting very off route and in a pretty dangerous position ended up abing diagonally to the descent path.
James Oakes - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Hamish Legge

Tim led first pitch, I led the rest. Lovely climbing on the 5a pitches.I thought the crux was the delicate traverse acoss on pitch 4....more like 5b, made more intimidating by the residual seepage on the slab at this point.My first visit to the Etive slabs.
Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Tim

Hidden - 11/Jul/13

Tubs - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Tim C

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13

traverse on p4 is spicy but a quality rote nonetheless
simon_D - AltLd - 26/May/13 with Ross

Led pitches 1 and 3, fell off the Scoop and left large chunk of right knee smeared over rock, but caught hold so still clean! Got back on feet and finished pitch. James couldn't face pitch 4 so abbed down.
stevelismore - AltLd dnf - 25/May/13 with James L

An early season ascent of Hammer and we paid for it by having to deal with alot of dampness! The quality pitches on this route are 3 and 4, both utterly superb. Beware the topo in Scottish Rock for pitch 5. The description says undercut the overlap but the topo directs you over it and up a lower portion of the headwall. Due to our confusion we ended up climbing the headwall in some pretty untravelled, exposed, 5b/c terrain and then a lot of heather pulling to reach the descent path! Unpleasant at the time but a suitably epic end to a great route.
John 'B' Hutchinson - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Stewart Rattray

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

bloody good climb
Ross Kirkland - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Simon Mathers

great smearing and laybacking need a competent second, which i had!
scott gibson - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with paul hainsworth

Led p 2 & 4. A lot of messing about trying to work out where to go on the last pitch: we were misled by the topo in the Gary Latter book, which is wrong & at odds with the description
cem - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/12

Was planning on leading the fourth pitch but wussed out, sort of wish I'd got the third. Class route.
cookacat - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Dafydd

APRS - AltLd - 02/Jun/12 with Lawrence Furse

Led the two crux pitches, brilliant route with great variation!
Dafydd Llywelyn - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Alex Minshall

David Stevens - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Reuben Crook

crookachili - AltLd - 26/May/12 with Dave Stevens

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/12

2 stars?!? more like 3, 4 if it was longer. I probably messed up the 'crux', as it felt pretty tricky. After that traverse there's a section that looks fairly gearless, but isn't. Safe as houses.
Euan Strachan - Lead - 25/May/12 with Simon T

Lead pitch 2 and 5. Slabs are hideous...
Elsier - AltLd O/S - 23/May/12 with Doug, Ian

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/12

Lead 1st crux after some hestitation but chickened of the delicate step right on the following pitch
ianwb - AltLd dog - 23/May/12 with Doug, Elsie

olekemi - AltLd O/S - 20/May/12 with Mark G

Leonard Tedd - 29/Apr/12 with Danny Carden

Great route. Wet streaks in the middle of the crux traverse, and exiting the crux pitch.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 31/Mar/12 with Hannah Evans

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Mar/12

once established a very fine outing. http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/25-03-12-hammertrapeze-glen-etive-glen.html
PAJames - 24/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Steven Carter - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11

dan doran - AltLd - 14/Jul/11 with Rab mcmurray

Ommuff - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with Rob, Toby Burrell

Lead all pitches up to and including scoop, which is fun. Crux pitch wet, parker led briliantly and i finished up the wrong (wet) line and took first leader fall and had to use point of aid. Descent in dark.
D_Wills - AltLd dog - 01/Jul/11

Led crux pitch, took a while to find right height to make the traverse.Real quality climbing up the scoop, corner and overlap.Sore toes/calves/bum muscle.
Sean Bell - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11 with Scott Elliott, James Dunn

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11

alkira - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

lead 1st and rd pitch's then jamie had problems on the 4th so i starrped them on and dispatched that too. great route. finished in the dark
Harry Holmes - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Jamie Sparkes

pimpy - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with hertha

JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Harry Holmes

jack_eadie - AltLd - 24/Sep/10

mikemartin - AltLd - 24/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10

good dry conditions and breezy enough to keep midgies at bay! the crux is the slabby traverse on p4of 5, not the scoop on p3 as the guidebook describes.
brianrunner - AltLd - 20/Jun/10 with martina

Class route
MonkeyDawson - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Simon, Liz Brooker

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/10

A fine climb but don't forget the midge repellant. We got eaten alive at the top.
gjd - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Lesley Ann

Lead p2 & 5. Great route!
isi_o - AltLd O/S - 26/May/10 with Lorenzo

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10

fantastic route!!, traverse on pitch 4 was brilliant!
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with kevin mcgrath

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/10

The corner proper is excellent with technical and boldish slab crux moves, but the start and finish to the route is lacking. Linked p.1 and 2. Linked p.3 (wet at crux) with first part of p4. An overall humbling (bumbling) experience.
bnewman - AltLd O/S - 08/May/10 with danimal88

In the dark of Fri night and Sat morning
pete87abs - AltLd O/S - 08/May/10 with Dave Brigham, Richard Clarke

Night time ascent using headtorches! Simply outstanding!
dj_brigham05 - AltLd O/S - 07/May/10 with Rich Clarke, Pete Abernethy

in the dark. best climbing to date!
rclarke - AltLd - 07/May/10 with pete87abs, Dave Brigham

Hidden - 2nd - May/10

jaggy bunnet - AltLd - 29/Apr/10 with frazzy4

Clean apart from slip on (wet) 4th pitch. Led 1, 3 and 5. Bold traverses!
rcammack - AltLd - 17/Apr/10 with liam ingram

Lead pitches 2 and 4. Pitch 4 was wet in places and scary at the traverse! Also dropped a No 1 wallnut on the belay ledge before the scoop...
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Robbie Cammack

I led scoop, Jelle led traverse.
KeithAlexander - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Jelle Muylle

colinthrelfall - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Sep/09

Confirmed my inability to climb slabs
s kennedy - AltLd - 18/Sep/09 with mark mosgrove

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/09

benclimbing - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/09

Good intro to the slabs.Lower pitches are poor but interest increases with every pitch. Alt leads Jimbobs start.
jazzyjackson - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Jimbob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/09

Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/09

Neilm18 - AltLd O/S - 15/May/09 with Michael Mcghee

had a little slip while seconding... i blame the new shoes ;)
michael83 - AltLd - 15/May/09 with Neil

French Erick - AltLd O/S - 14/May/09 with Alex Heude

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Hannah and Gilles

hwackerhage - 18/Apr/09 with Steve Holmes

mikemartin - AltLd - 17/Apr/09

joe larner - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/09

Got to pitch 4 and Neil had problems with the traverse right due to going up to far along the corner... will be back to claim it another day.
stuaart - 2nd dnf - 12/Apr/09 with Neil Redgrave

Jamie Simpson - 2009 with Andy Munro

jess - AltLd O/S - 2009 with martin

windy100 - 2009

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 2009

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Sep/08

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/08

D.Russell - AltLd - 26/Jul/08 with Adam

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/08

adw07 - AltLd dog - 30/May/08 with Mark Jarvie

Hidden - AltLd - 25/May/08

another great rote. only two consistent pitches of hvs climbing. the scoop is very bold and delicate but good and the traverse is very airy!
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with paul

Paulww - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with Ryan

Callum T - AltLd - 14/May/08 with Kat Torr, Emily Ward

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/08

Lead 1,3 & 4 ... traverse from corner on pitch 4 'is' the obvious thin band for your feet. My partner was trying slightly higher up where there was some slight 'bumps' for your hands before backing off and swapping the lead.
Adam1973 - AltLd O/S - 09/May/08 with Big Ian

jaybob - AltLd - May/08 with russell

Classic! 5a traverse pitch was wet, made it a bit trickier
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/08 with Pete Hart

Scramble up to the start wasn't very scrambly, so pitched up to the the heathery ledge, were we in the wrong place)? Route its self was great with loads of laybaking up slabby corners, was like something you'd see in America. I got the scoop which was easy and was followed by 20m of lovely layback corner. Also climbed the 4th pitch after Tim came down not liking the bit of wet on the critical traverse; scary leaving the corner but the moves were fine once committed. An awesome route in an amazing location and much easier than I thought it would be, canny wait to get back for some e1s.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/08 with sandy, Tim Cross

Led 2nd. Led 4th upto the traverse, but couldn't commit to stepping across the wet streak on non-existent holds - terrified! Lowered off and Andy climbed it like a pro.
beegsyboy - AltLd - 20/Apr/08 with Sandy + Andy

westaway - Lead O/S - Apr/08

sgl - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/08 with helena

Russ82 - 2008

Russ82 - 2008

Fantastic. "The scoop" is purely psychological, but the corner afterwards is pure enjoyment! And the crux traverse is astonishingly unnerving with a wet streak down it!
PeteH - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Lawrie Brand

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

figfour - Lead - 2008 with dave

Climb itself was great fun, and went quickly. Unfortunately I had an attack of stupid at the top and missed the walk off path, ended up on an epic trying to finish up the overhanging headwall! Numpty.
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Ally Hill

Henning lead the 2 crux pitches, I lead the ones before and after this
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2008 with Henning

Captain Solo - AltLd - 26/Sep/07 with Ewan

jaybob - AltLd - Sep/07 with ally

Boistelle - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Guy Stevens

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07

mike71 - Lead - May/07 with antonia

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/07

timothee - AltLd - Apr/07

alan wilson - 2007

Hidden - 2007

jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/06 with Miguel Ciriza, Garry Hugh

ollybowman - AltLd - 22/Aug/06 with Tomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/06

barney_edin - AltLd - 04/Jul/06 with Kati

a_hein - Lead O/S - Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/06

joe king - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/06 with steve petit

steveP - AltLd rpt - Jun/06 with Paul Rowlands

gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - May/06 with Steev

I had 2 falls on the scoop pitch.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd dog - May/06 with Tim

steev - 29/Apr/06 with Gaz

jim.macp - 29/Apr/06

fireman_al - Lead O/S - Mar/06 with Paul McDonald

jim robertson - 2006

john irving - 2006

Neil Adams - AltLd - 2006 with Andy Inglis

dangates - 2006 with Tim Darlow

steveP - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/05 with Simon Flower

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/05

Lead crux on third attempt
Jamie B - AltLd - May/05 with Rich Parker

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Apr/05

Sandy P - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Will Cadell

akhughes - AltLd - 2005

Grim, hot, showery, midgey day.
alan moore - 2005

dave o - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/04 with Julia H

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/04

Paul L - Lead - Sep/04

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/04 with Zac Poulton

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Mar/04

andyinglis - AltLd - 2004

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/03

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/03 with Laura

Outstanding route, but thought it was 5a? Despite the notoriety of the Scoop pitch, the following pitch is the crux. Take care on the descent not to dislodge loose stones on other climbers.
220bpm - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/03 with Snowboarder

snowboarder - 2nd - 19/Apr/03 with Mark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2003

BRUCESTRAC - 2003 with Chris Cracknell,Various

phardman - Lead O/S - 04/May/02

IanMcC - AltLd - 06/Apr/02 with Ewan Moffat

Had a proper epic. I would recommend doing Spartan Slabs first if you haven't climbed here or somewhere similar before. Despite my little epic, I can still see that Hammer is a real classic.
Andy S - AltLd dog - Apr/02 with Keith

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/01

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 15/May/01 with Karl Atherton

Hidden - AltLd - 06/May/01

frost - AltLd - Mar/01 with J Hubbard

graeme gatherer - 2000

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

jcw - 1999 with Simon Richardson

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/98

Jamie B - 2nd - Aug/98 with Pete Morgan

Superb line, brilliant climbing, one of my favourite routes ever. Retired bloke in front of us had brought along a 20something to lead the hard bits. The lad failed on them and the old guy had to make his first HVS lead. He cruised them.
Iain Thow - Lead - 24/Jun/95 with Liz Jolley

auld al - AltLd O/S - May/95

Evoman - Jun/94 with Kev T

Hidden - Lead - May/92

Yourlead - 2nd - 15/Oct/91 with Graham Penny

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/91

babymoac - Lead - 05/Jul/91 with Howard

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/90

and steve williams
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 23/May/90 with steve williams, brian jones

graham lawrie - Solo - 1990

uphillnow - 1990

i led he scoop, found the traverrse (p4) hard
lithos - AltLd - 1990 with john byrne

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/89 with Angel Vila

Neil Henderson - Lead - May/89 with Martin McLoughlin

amcleish - 1988

Hidden - AltLd - 1988

Moses - AltLd - 18/Aug/86

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead O/S - May/86 with Jean Williamson

Hidden - AltLd - 1986

Falko - AltLd - 1985 with Howard Lancashire

mark-abz - Lead - 15/Jul/84 with Liam M

Hairy Welshman - 2nd dnf - 1984 with Ross Robinson

Hidden - AltLd - 04/May/80

Chris Craggs - 1980

Back at the Loch, triumphant, we brewed up with water from the Loch, discovering it was part of the Atlantic Ocean !
rogerskews - 12/Jun/79 with Keith Jenkins

Nigel Bond - Lead - 27/May/79 with Martin Crosby

Lord of Starkness - AltLd O/S - Apr/78 with Dave Bowen

Soloed up to traverse and sensibly got a rope across the travers
Lone Rider - Solo - 1978

neil3965 - Lead - Jul/77 with Julie Blythe

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/76

A fine route once we had found it,super impressive cliff
Peter Main - 2nd - 09/Jun/76 with Pete Long & Les Berrow

petemeads - Lead - 29/Oct/74

pneame - AltLd O/S - 1973 with Eric Holligan

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/68

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Total votes cast 187
hard E10 of 63
E10 of 63
easy E15 of 63
hard HVS8 of 63
HVS48 of 63
easy HVS2 of 63
hard VS0 of 63
VS0 of 63
easy VS0 of 63
hard 5b0 of 62
5b1 of 62
easy 5b29 of 62
hard 5a4 of 62
5a18 of 62
easy 5a7 of 62
hard 4c3 of 62
4c0 of 62
easy 4c0 of 62
3 Stars56 of 62
2 Stars6 of 62
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