Derbyshire > Stanage Popular >
 
Narrow Buttress (Direct Start)** VS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Narrow Buttress
 
Straight and Narrow >>
Avoid using the right arete (which I've never bothered with anyway!)

Ticklists: Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 181 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

dom94 - 2nd - 29/Mar/14 with Calum Harvey

Olli-C - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Linden Clark

Cowdu - Lead O/S - Mar/14

Cowdu - Lead O/S - Mar/14

Si - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/13

pimpy - Lead - 14/Sep/13 with Berta

chancer - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Bob Stones, Iain Gray

Hardcore Pat - Solo O/S - 04/Sep/13

Gambit - Lead rpt - 31/Aug/13 with Josh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/13

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Charles Moreton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/13

Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Paul G, Michael H

aking12 - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13 with Ester Knowles

Clay C - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Emma

Submit to Gravity - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/13 with Andy

Mr. K - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Fred Mainwaring

jack01 - Lead O/S - 17/May/13 with lan

in trainers
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Shaun Humphreys

Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13

Not a proper onsight as I've climbed all over this buttress previously
deacondeacon - Solo O/S - 04/Jan/13

Metalbear - Lead dog - 2013 with Matthew Brown

Nick Sillem - Solo O/S - 2013

Nice climb with a delicate traverse followed by a steeper juggy finish.
Ragingpossum - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/12

Sol Armer - 2nd O/S - 28/Oct/12

Bold in the middle but easy, nice finish!
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Sol Armer

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Oct/12

Wayne S - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/12

samsimpson - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/12 with Tom Dolden

Hidden - Lead - 22/Sep/12

tricky start in the cold. balancy good
rurp - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/12

Dibdawg - Solo O/S - 10/Sep/12

HarryB - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Mike

joedoherty - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12

Wayne S - 2nd - 09/Aug/12

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/12 with Jem

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/12

Wayne S - 27/Jul/12

sgl - Lead - 09/Jul/12 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/12

ColinD - 17/Jun/12 with Seth Barber

sonnenstern - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Toby Vye

Tenko - 26/May/12 with John McEvoy, Guy Williams

Hjort - 2nd - 26/May/12 with Sophie Wilmes

considering you get no gear at all for the first half with the direct start, I'd probably give it HVS...
Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Laetitia

jon59 - Lead - 16/May/12

the power - 2nd - 28/Apr/12 with neil

nrhardy - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/12 with the power

pie_eater_pete - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/12

slacky - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/12 with Andes

davewsargent - Lead β - Apr/12 with peter sargent

SteveM - Solo - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Mar/12

matthomas79 - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Tala M

Marq - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Tom Jones

nutty_didz - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12 with Josh Dickerson

teamrob - 2nd - 14/Jan/12 with Dan

Hidden - 2012

jon clayton - Solo - 22/Oct/11

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Claire

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/11

andysroom - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Lizzie

al123 - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/11

joemallia - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/11 with Tim Rolfe, Fidel Sciamanna

Jack Whiteley - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with SMB

santobugito - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Patrick

Direct 5a start is well worth it. Didn't feel like stopping to put gear below the roof so the haul over the top felt a particularly long way from the last, not really inspiring piece of gear. Bellyfloop finish. Excellent.
treg - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Beka

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Martin

cat22 - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Mike

Dafydd Llywelyn - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Jamie

adamjeffs - Lead O/S - 02/May/11

RKernan - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11 with Tom Prebble

tprebs - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/11 with Rónán Kernan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/11

Tricky direct start, highly escapable after that, maybe a star for the finish, not overly pleasant.
catt - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with George

georgel - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with iain

tompilgrem - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Dad

Direct start on sight- had done rest of route before- excellent climb
bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Bob/Tom

Iain Thow - 2nd - 25/Mar/11 with Ed Austin

harold walmsley - Solo rpt - 14/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

katiep - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

joe.91 - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Lizzie Waterhouse, Laura Evans, MUMC

Alex T (RAFMA) - Lead - 25/Sep/10 with Gilbert

bullwinkle - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/10 with Kim

mattime18 - 2nd O/S - Sep/10 with olly burrows

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10

chipdidychip - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10 with dan miller

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 15/Aug/10

PeteH - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Craig + Sarah

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Nick, Claire

squidgebob - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/10 with jamie, Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Jamie

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10 with jigi

wazir.safeer - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Jess

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/10

jose.climbing - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/10

Hidden - Solo - 12/Jun/10

philbish - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10

LakesWinter - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with AD

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/10

troutbeck - Solo - 13/Mar/10

Direct start- hard move. Matt did it without hesitation. Good top out too.
Cake - 2nd - 2010 with Matt

RossG - 2010

Sean Kelly - 2010

Hidden - 2010

JulesV - Solo - 09/Nov/09

The Bad Cough - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/09 with John Sealey, John Nesbitt

hembug - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09

markytaylor - Lead dnf - 02/Oct/09

matsavage - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09

V nice climb
Andy S - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/09 with Dave H, Luke

Hidden - Lead - 13/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 07/Sep/09

Pete Graham - Solo - 07/Sep/09

catblack - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Dad

Si dH - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/09 with Gary and Pete

Good route but bloody hell it was midgy
KeithW - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Paul Lucas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09

adi bryant - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with Lee

wolverine - 21/Jun/09 with jamie Restoric

Sandrine - 2nd - 24/May/09 with Chris Wyatt

chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with sandrine

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with muppetfilter

nice but I was frozen
SGD - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/09 with DW2

first of the year
Mick r - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/09 with Al, Mikey and Guy

Did the direct start as I fancied it! Theres a bad cam placement just below the hard move, but if your clever there is a bomber cam in the break above it (above where you can see). Very tricky balancy move to get onto the ledge, using very shallow flaring breaks to balance over to it. Got it eventually, if my fingers weren't as strong I would have gotten a bit worried. Easy climbing upto the overhang, make sure you take small cams as this route uses any which you might have on you! Overhang wasn't perfectly protected, a very poor cam, and a misangle cam. But its very juggy and as the guidebook describes it "wild", especially when its blowing a gale and you cant feel your hands! A nice gargoyle helps you over the top! Andy took a couple of attempts at the direct before opting for the right hand start. Did the rest easily if with slightly numb fingers!
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/09 with Andy

maybe_si - Solo O/S - 2009

Goose4 - 2009

djking1983 - 2nd - 21/Nov/08 with Rich Brammall

Pleased with this.
Becky E - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Marilyn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08

tommytuffa - Solo O/S - 21/Sep/08

coombsy - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Neil D

thinair48 - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Ben Stone

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/08 with scottish kris

inuklm - 2nd - 27/Jul/08 with Dave Gent

Another James - 2nd - 15/Jul/08 with Graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08

rob wmc - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Alan & Sarah

Matthallinan - Lead - 19/May/08 with Phil Parker

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

vvanhinsbergh - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Hamish Dunn

Hidden - 2008

C.J.Horsfield - Solo O/S - 30/Oct/07

scullymammoth - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Karl Wooffingdon

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Steve Chapman

Pythonist - Solo - 30/Aug/07 with Matt CC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/07

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/07 with Chris FitzHugh

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 01/Aug/07 with Jade

Joe Costello - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/07 with James

Nick Smith - UKC - Solo rpt - 03/Feb/07

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/07 with Stan

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Dave Latimer - 2nd - 05/Nov/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Oct/06

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - TR O/S - Oct/05

Pete Graham - 2nd - 2005 with Rick Graham, Becky Graham

Via the 5a direct start. Scary - more like HVS?
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - May/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Mar/03

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 2003 with Clare

antroy - Lead - 12/Jul/00

Hidden - 2000

danm - Lead - 2000

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - 1996

John Southworth - Solo O/S - 16/Jul/95

NorthernRock - Lead - Sep/92

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 1990

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, jeffsheard, b.hayley

Voting
Total votes cast 85
hard HVS0 of 29
HVS0 of 29
easy HVS3 of 29
hard VS8 of 29
VS17 of 29
easy VS1 of 29
hard HS0 of 29
HS0 of 29
easy HS0 of 29
hard 5b0 of 28
5b0 of 28
easy 5b0 of 28
hard 5a0 of 28
5a19 of 28
easy 5a8 of 28
hard 4c0 of 28
4c1 of 28
easy 4c0 of 28
3 Stars6 of 28
2 Stars17 of 28
1 Star4 of 28
0 Stars1 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed21 of 181 (11.6%)
Lead94 of 181 (51.9%)
Followed47 of 181 (26.0%)
Toproped1 of 181 (0.6%)
Alt Leads2 of 181 (1.1%)
Unknown16 of 181 (8.8%)

'Climbed'57 of 181 (31.5%)
clean O/S111 of 181 (61.3%)
clean β1 of 181 (0.6%)
clean rpt10 of 181 (5.5%)
dogged1 of 181 (0.6%)
dnf1 of 181 (0.6%)