17m. Next route to the right of get flossed, Hard!

A Sharp, P Lewis 15/Jul/1989


ClimberDateStyle
Ricky Rocks 14/Mar/14 Lead dog
guy xavier percival 07/Feb/13 Lead RP

Finger shredding

with rob
DafSWMC 02/Apr/11 Lead RP

Can't take full tick for now as wasn't tempted by rotten rock of second half, but felt about V6 but those micro-holds feel bigger the smaller your fingers are!

with Gareth
RD 07/Sep/10 TR dog

Top roped the bottom and then lead through to 2/3rds height. It was getting a bit dark! Holds very sharp - really only one move. Difficult to grade - crux is hard for a 7b. So probably 7b+ ish.

tombeasley 29/Aug/10 Lead dnf
with Chris Cleave
gejones 22/Jun/10 Lead RP

Gap grades! For me this route can be summarised as a short sharp V6 followed by a straightforward Fr6b+/6c - I agree with Simon, hard Fr7b seems about right - but it's always hard to find a consensus of grade when there's one short section that's massively harder than anything else on a route. I find the crux moves of Mad harder than anything on Loctite, but in isolation not that much harder; on the whole though, Mad is an entirely different proposition and at least a full grade harder.

with DafSWMC, Sean
simonr 05/Jun/10 Lead

So close to onsighting this - fell off at the belay! Way easier than Mad At The Sun though - it's my type of route, but it can't be more than hard 7b, maybe soft 7b+

MorganPreece 09/May/10 Lead dnf

Ok, i didunt do it, buuuuutttt how is this giveun 7b? the moves on the micro edges are harder than the crux on mad at the sun and thats geting on 7c+ maybe 8a! if kevs right and its V7 that makes it a Fr7c. when the hole in my finger heels i will be back!

with Monty
Billg ??/2010 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Sep/08 Lead RP
Mark Walter 19/Feb/08 TR dog
Hidden 27/Apr/94 Lead RP
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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set