This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.
Hidden - Lead RP - 19/May/11
I got through the crux on the onsight when a hold broke. Gutted! got it 2nd go.
westyb3 - Lead RP - 02/May/11 with Alan Sarhan
Wow, didn't expect to be clipping the belay on this one tonight! As far as grade's concerned I've no idea, I'll reserve my vote until I've got more experience at this level.
gejones - Lead RP - 24/Jun/10 with Sean
2nd go. Tough!
marric - Lead RP - 02/Jun/10 with sharpie
Really amazing route, did the crux on my 6th go, really happy with that, just struglying with the roof at the top, have no finger tips left now! only route i can compare it to is Skin Ed at dinas and this is a lot harder. Goi mentions not going right handed from the moves out from the matchstick, how did you do it?
Got on it after Onsighting Encore! 7b+, this is a diffrent League, 8a all day long, if not is 7c+.
Guna spend a night on it soon, its guna go soon!
MorganPreece - Lead dog - 09/May/10 with Monty
How do the grades at the Gap work? This climb can be broken down into Font 7c to halfway (harder than Rock Atrocity and Jerry's Roof which are both Font 7c and considered comparable to French 8a), followed by a hard V5 to get over the roof to the chain; so how can this be 7c? This felt as hard, if not harder than H1N1 (8a). Also, it was first climbed in 1990, yet has had less than 10 ascents. I can only think of 7, Crocker, Goi, Pickford, Ally, Si Rawlinson, Sharpy, myself; that's less than Action Directe! I would have voted for 8a as the grade, but it only goes up to 7c+. *** A huge thank you to Paul Bowen for adding the extra belay bolt ***
KH - Lead RP - 04/Oct/09 with Luke Maggs
Interested to see the recent video. I notice a lot more moves than we used to do. The climber is moving up from much lower footholds, and going right handed from the moves out from the matchstick. Might be harder that way. The route was quite popular in the mid 90s, before the jug came off (at the lip) and smashed the belayers knees in (ouch). In reply to Morgan - Left Handed. The route has had a lot more than 7 Ascents - I know 5 others not listed here. This used to be considered Fr7b+, I'm glad I held out and graded it Fr7c :)
goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 10/Jul/94 with Matt Hirst
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, guy xavier percival, Hidden, Tyson Broad, richardr, MorganPreece, Hidden