The Great Valerio*** E1 5a
[Alex looking lonely, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
40m. Brilliant; one the crag’s strongest lines. Low in the grade. Climbing with your hands in the break provides the best protection, feet in the break is less strenuous and much more scary! Climb up to the square pocket, then follow the rising break all the way to Left Edge, and finish up this. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Alex looking lonely © Matt Harle
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This climb is in 150 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

Pretty serious and scary on second, sustained, long, and really wouldnt want to fall off first half but wonderful climbing.
oddtoast - 2nd - 06/Sep/14 with Gav

clairemathews - 2nd - 28/Aug/14 with Martin Bagshaw

Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/14 with Claire Mathews

Rested after a prolonged struggle to remove gear.
spearing05 - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/14 with Andrew

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/14

3 Names - 2nd - 22/Aug/14 with Robert Dufton

rd20 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/14 with Vince

andy dunn - 2nd - 16/Aug/14 with Darren, J

Matthew Glenn - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Sam Ford

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14

quiffhanger - 2nd β - 31/May/14

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Ross McKerchar

Graham Westbrook - 2nd - 28/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/14

Dan Hostford - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Maddie Sweetman, Remi Richards

Didn't lead it but would give it E1 as would take some pretty huge swings if you slipped off one of the times you don't have mega footholds. Dans cam decided to be a nut aswell which was a pain in the arse
Maddie - 2nd O/S - 05/May/14 with Remi, Dan Hostford

Remi Richards - 2nd - 05/May/14 with Maddie, Dan Hostford

Awesome traverse! went high a tad early, but just fantastic climbing
hlegge - Lead O/S - 02/May/14 with Adam Knightly

mike lawrence? - 2nd - 29/Apr/14 with Metal

Nice nice nice. Shame about faff for gear. Solo with tide in?
clairejane - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with will

Fine lead from the lady.worth e1 I'd say as the ledge is never far away!
w.pettet-smith - 2nd - Apr/14 with claire jane carter

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Martin Doyle

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/13

Bonkers traverse, great fun! Wouldn't argue with e1 5a due to the 20 ft pumpy run out in the middle
Wilbur - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/13 with Paul Winder

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Ed Mitchell, Ellen Cobby

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Liam

E1 in the guide book!
JClimb - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Vince Brown

AlexD - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/13 with Alasdair

a13x - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Matthew Keeves

Matt Harle - Solo O/S - 14/Jun/13

Great Route. Sustained and pumpy climbing until the break, which arrives just when you want it. Afterwards becomes relatively easy. technically not above 5a moves, however potential for big swings if you fall, even on second. Well worth it.
RUDIN.J.D.H - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/13 with Mike Mason

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Andrew1 - Lead - 09/Jun/13 with Hulda

led worth the E1 i think. Bold particularly without micro wires. it felt like a long pitch. Will come back in cool weather with the right equipment!
alasdair19 - Jun/13

Jillybean - Lead O/S - 30/May/13 with Tim jepson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/13

Jacob k-d - Lead O/S - 21/May/13

monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Andy C

Great fun
Daniel Heath - Solo β - 06/May/13

Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 03/May/13 with Adam Knightly

Olli-C - Lead O/S - 03/May/13 with Rachel Slater

Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 03/May/13 with Olli Crudge

some large gaps betweeen gear, climbed with hands in the break mostly.
hutchay - 2nd - 29/Mar/13 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13

Excellent traverse line, don't forget your micro wires
cbeard - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Dickon Morris

Pretty scarey, thought I was off just before the great flake but thankfully adrenaline took over! Cool route though, pleased to survive.
mcglenr25 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Francis Charlesworth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/12 with jim, Dan

simonsclimbing - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/12

givemetea - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Rachel Somerville

Rachel Somerville - 2nd - 21/Jul/12 with Ros M

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/12

LukeyG - Lead - 08/Jul/12

simonp - Lead O/S - Jul/12 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Ed morris - 2nd rpt - 28/Jun/12 with Dickon

pembrokeshirecaver - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/12 with Edmund Morris

Great line but more HVS 4c
Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/12 with Harry Yarrow

yarrow - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/12 with Ross.Cooper

Dibdawg - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12 with Will Twiggers

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

jacobjacob - Solo O/S - 26/May/12

jacobjlloyd - Solo O/S - 26/May/12 with Jacob

jossjones - Lead - 22/May/12

Aid@n - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12

Just brilliant...
Dafydd Llywelyn - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Will Hunt

Will Hunt - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with Dafydd Llywelyn

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/12

vanderz - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/12 with patrick dawson

dodfoster - Lead O/S - Apr/12 with esther seddon

esther - Lead - Apr/12

Adam Coles - Lead O/S - Mar/12 with ben park

The Green Giant - Lead O/S - 2012 with Dan with the van

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/11

AlexD - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Sophie

Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Alex

mjeffery - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/11 with Ando

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/11

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Laura D

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/11

What a route! Really struggled to find good quality protection on the early stages when treating it as a hand traverse, getting pretty knackered in the process. Then opted for the feet-in-break option which felt technically very easy indeed and still had just about adequate protection.
jonny taylor - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Andy B

ablackett - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with Jonny

Scary one to second!
Oliver Sherman - 2nd - 29/Jul/11 with John Eales

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 27/Jul/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Hidden - 22/Jul/11

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/11 with rob lay

pipof747 - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/11

Sweet route, balancey climbing on small feet at the start. Lead it next time!
Fatboy1000 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Chris

Gets E1 in the guide...ukc has it right
chriscarroll - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11

nice climb not that hard but spaced gear at times.
vertically_challenged - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/11

Great E1, technicle to start off with but the holds gt bigger as you go along, very little food placements so in parts spearing is paramount. In total, a great climb.
Will Horton - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Tom Horton

awesome climb, in my books worth 3 stars. plenty of gear (just need time to find it).
TM_Horton - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with will

Soft, but well worth doing!
Tommy Cole - Lead O/S - Jun/11 with Max Stanley

mjeffery - 2nd rpt - 24/May/11

benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 01/May/11

Long and with fairly spaced gear, but really nice climbing! Started with hands in crack with nice big ledges for feet every so often, then put feet in crack and edged along the last half. Easy climbing with plenty of rests but big fall potential.
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Ben Kelsey

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/11

jkarran - Lead - 29/Apr/11 with Aly

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Mark Sheridan

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Feb/11

feilx - 2nd rpt - 30/Jan/11 with Floris

williamsd79 - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

muttley_109 - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Gary Lewis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

RobRock84 - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Robin neath

Finished up Metamorphosis
metal arms - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/10

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/10 with James Kay

Used the crack for the feet, nothing callenging but so great looking back across the traverse to see where you've just been!
Jams Crwca - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with pete

02jmmoran - 03/May/10

02jmmoran - 2nd - 03/May/10

hardoreVdiffBen - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/May/10

Easily worth three stars!
Byronius Maximus - 2nd - 02/May/10 with Alex Twist

Twisty - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with Byron Buck

Hidden - Lead - May/10

good route.
Ed morris - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Ronan Kemp

Exciting! Hands in break.
Becky E - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Phil Lee

Brown - Solo O/S - 10/Apr/09 with John

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Feb/09

In the pembroke supplement its graded E1 5a **, probably deserves this grade. An awesome climb well worth doing.
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/09 with Paul, Caspian

feilx - Solo rpt - 01/Nov/08 with Floris

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Sep/08

jonnybull - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Alban

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/08

quite bold even seconding
BenJacobs - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/08 with PeakDJ

sonnenstern - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/08 with James Marjot

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/07

Chris the Tall - 2nd - 12/Nov/07 with Dave J

girdle traverses, always great
david morse - Lead - 18/Jul/07 with Stu Corns

stuc - 2nd - 2007

feilx - Solo - 18/Nov/06

Mike H - 2nd - 30/May/06 with Jamie Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06

cem - 2nd - 28/Aug/05 with James Gill

al99 - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Nick Record

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/04

VPJB - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 2000

belay bunny turned bad - 2000

Hidden - May/98

RichardMc - Lead - Aug/96 with Steve Gould

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 31/May/89

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ropeboy, JonmapDL, meltdown34, rustaldo, vix, richardw87, Ragingpossum, Cameron94, khalidq, kim.mulji, CRiddiford

Total votes cast 133
hard E20 of 49
E20 of 49
easy E20 of 49
hard E11 of 49
E13 of 49
easy E121 of 49
hard HVS4 of 49
HVS19 of 49
easy HVS0 of 49
hard VS1 of 49
VS0 of 49
easy VS0 of 49
hard 5b1 of 45
5b0 of 45
easy 5b0 of 45
hard 5a3 of 45
5a35 of 45
easy 5a4 of 45
hard 4c2 of 45
4c0 of 45
easy 4c0 of 45
3 Stars22 of 39
2 Stars16 of 39
1 Star1 of 39
0 Stars0 of 39
Bag of .....0 of 39
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat