UKC
4 pitches. The Black Spout to the junction with left branch go left across a ramp to a bay (belay on right). Climbing the chimney line straight up via two chimneys before exiting right at the top of the second. Climb turfy slabs to the top of the pinnacle before abseil to the gap and an easy pitch to the plateau

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lochnagar

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Scottish Rock Climbs (Wired) Cover
Scottish Rock Climbs (Wired) (2022)
Scottish Mountaineering Club
By Kevin Howett
Scottish Rock - South Cover
Scottish Rock - South (2017)
Pesda Press
By Gary Latter
Guidebook correction for this climb
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
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Route of Interest
On the way in for some early season magic
Magic Pillar

Grade: IV 5 ***
(Lochnagar)

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