Vaucher Route (SW Face)** TD
400m, 14 pitches. 13-14 pitches, good belays, nice chimney at half height and crux roof pitch thereafter. Descent is bit tricky as the best rap line is, if one comes up on the far left pointe, found by traversing to the next pointe and locating the rap rings that are on the SW side providing a straight shot down to where boots and bags are left at beginning of climb (think about 10 raps, all with solid rap ring anchors).

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 66 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/14

A long day! Turned up at the lift to find it was delayed by an hour due to fresh snow at the top. About 45 mins to approach with a short neve at the end, crampons useful but no need for an axe. Started the route at 9am. I started out hoping to link the first two pitches and get to the terrace. Easy climbing led to more difficult ground in the same line, which proved pretty exciting as it was damp and both my fingers and toes were cold! After negotiating a tricky section I belayed on old bolts and gear and Nic led through up a damp groove - great lead, I found it sketchy seconding! Never before have I had to pull on frozen grass when rock climbing! All this easily cost us an hour. In fact there's a bolted belay slightly to the left at around 40m and the pitch above that is fairly easy and dry (saw it on abseil). Overall it's about 70m to the terrace as had to scramble down a bit on our last ab down from the terrace. I led the easy groove above the right hand end of the terrace, Nic led the easy ground above and moved together for the next pitch (a bit tricky in places) to get to the shallow groove below the chimney. I did a long pitch to belay on pegs and gear below the squeeze chimney. Nic led that (thankfully easy, actually not much chimneying involved!) and the tricky groove above to a platform. All very traditional on this section. I did the tricky crack on the left (camptocamp suggested French 4c - it's harder!), traversing right to a platform below the crux pitch. Nic led that - several full on jamming sections and some exciting traversing, would be a gnarly grit HVS! I did a long pitch up vertical flakes which all felt a bit suspect but were ok if a bit damp in places - didn't really enjoy it! Nic carried on up a slanting chimney/groove line and carried on moving together up easy ground up and right. I finished off to get onto the ridge just right of the gendarme. We did it in 11 pitches with some moving together. Nic spotted the ab station amongst the swirling clouds at a pointe about 30m along the ridge away from the gendarme. The ab line is more or less straight down to the slabby middle section and has at least one new bolt on each station, happy days! Then a few more abs down the slabby section, not quite following the route we took on the way up. The ab stations there are older but ok. Nightmare to sort the ropes out though as it isn't steep enough! About 12 abs in total. Not the best weather and conditions - started off cold and damp in places as out of the sun, then just as the sun crept round around midday the clouds came in and we were in the clag for the rest of the day with visibility mostly down to a pitch! On the ridge at 5pm, back down at 7.30pm so had to walk down, which was another two and a half hours. Second time I've walked down that path so knew it was long but had forgotten just how long - murder on the legs! Overall, some good, fun climbing, especially in the chimney section and on the crux but much of the rest is nothing to write home about, so I think the two stars given here is right. Would no doubt have enjoyed it more in the sunshine!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/14 with Nic

Very wet and cold so progress was slow. The 5c Chimney was pretty tough and we got above the hard climbing 3-4 pitches from the top.
chris687 - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/14 with Stuart Bygrave, james matthews

Wet & fun. Abbed after difficulties.
jimmatthews - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/14 with Stuart Bygrave, Chris Andrews

climbed 10 pitches and bailed from swirling clouds and so jessie could get the lift back whilst I took the shoelace express. Perfect granite, imposing chimney pitch!
ndraper1 - 25/Jul/14

kelliroberts3 - AltLd - 06/Jul/14 with Peter Rigby

Pete Rigby - 06/Jul/14 with Kelli Roberts

Abbed off after awesome chimney pitch, climbed slowly.
fulton333 - AltLd dnf - Jul/14 with Iasiah, Charlie Edwards

mike mo - 2014

Climbed passed the chimneys(alot harder than expected) then bailed so ally could get lift back.
Sam Simpson - AltLd dnf - 04/Sep/13 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/13

James Thacker - 2013

jcw - 2013

Dave Searle - 2013

Tricky route finding. The chimney pitches felt harder than VI+!
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Misha Gopaul

Great route - made up for failing about twenty years ago. Very tiring though if you are the rucksack carrier.
Colin Knowles - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/12

To the top of the gendarme. Excellent!
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/12 with Chris Allan

Upto halfway but slwo parties in front would have meant we missed the last lift so bailed.
Ollie B - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/12 with T.Livinstone

what he said. great climbing though
Tom Livingstone - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/12 with Ollie Burrows

Hidden - 2012

Drew M - AltLd - Sep/11 with Fred Lyon

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/10

liz j - 06/Sep/10 with Matt Dickinson

tumbling wizard - Aug/10 with andrew marshall

With bags, moved together on 4+ pitches, charles led the 6a+
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Charles Spanyard

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/10

Started snowing/raining 4 pitches from top so had to abseil off :-(
HamishD - AltLd dnf - 13/Sep/09 with sergey, tom grant

inuklm - 23/Aug/09 with Dave Gent

davidgent - 23/Aug/09 with Kunal

Somerset swede basher - AltLd - 10/Jul/08 with George Taylor

mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Felix Coxwell

feilx - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Dan Barbour

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/03

Hidden - Aug/03

NeilGriffiths - 2002 with James Hubbard

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Aug/01 with helen gibson

Classic
Grezza - AltLd - Jun/01 with Paul E

stokesrees - Lead - 1997 with Ryan Brown

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/96 with LiamG

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/95

alkira - 06/Aug/93 with harvey mullen

alkira - 06/Aug/93 with bruce goodlad

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/92 with mik

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/92 with Steven Delderfield

Had to lead all pitchs 'cos had damaged both thumbs kayaking. could only clip gear ....no unclipping. Finnished up SSSW arete of Aig. du Paine in a storm had to cut ropes, nearly died!!!!!!!!!!!
Tony Kartawick - Lead O/S - Aug/90 with James Thomas

this part of the route was smooth. getting off from the summit was epic
Tony Kartawick - AltLd rpt - Aug/90 with James Thomas

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/89

did the SW ridge after
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/88 with steve williams

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/88

Richard Weller - Jul/86 with john sanders

garywalker147 - AltLd - 1986

Lone Rider - AltLd - 1986

John Marsland - 05/Aug/85 with Dave Soles

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/85

garywalker147 - AltLd - 1985 with Alistair

Hidden - Jun/84

jasper11 - 1984 with Gaz Morgan

John Marsland - AltLd dnf - Aug/83 with Paul Cook

Hidden - Aug/82

mark-abz - AltLd - Aug/81 with ?

First sighting of a jammed 'Friend' Brilliant route - perfect for a gritstone jammer.
Falko - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/80 with Al W.

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
benclimbing, Timothy Miller, andybuckley

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