Nice route on good granite, though the grades shouldn't be underestimated - proper old school thuggery, serious value. After the chimney pitch we headed up too high rather than traversing right on the terrace as seems to be the way, and ended up on a super gnarly crack/slab nightmare...
alexm198 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/15 with Tim Oliver
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/15
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/15
walts4 - 06/Jun/15 with monty
Great day out, interesting pitches, climbed in good style and speed. Avoided thunder and lightning. Happy bunnies
monsteratt - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Peter
Hidden - 2015
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/14
A long day! Turned up at the lift to find it was delayed by an hour due to fresh snow at the top. About 45 mins to approach with a short neve at the end, crampons useful but no need for an axe. Started the route at 9am. I started out hoping to link the first two pitches and get to the terrace. Easy climbing led to more difficult ground in the same line, which proved pretty exciting as it was damp and both my fingers and toes were cold! After negotiating a tricky section I belayed on old bolts and gear and Nic led through up a damp groove - great lead, I found it sketchy seconding! Never before have I had to pull on frozen grass when rock climbing! All this easily cost us an hour. In fact there's a bolted belay slightly to the left at around 40m and the pitch above that is fairly easy and dry (saw it on abseil). Overall it's about 70m to the terrace as had to scramble down a bit on our last ab down from the terrace. I led the easy groove above the right hand end of the terrace, Nic led the easy ground above and moved together for the next pitch (a bit tricky in places) to get to the shallow groove below the chimney. I did a long pitch to belay on pegs and gear below the squeeze chimney. Nic led that (thankfully easy, actually not much chimneying involved!) and the tricky groove above to a platform. All very traditional on this section. I did the tricky crack on the left (camptocamp suggested French 4c - it's harder!), traversing right to a platform below the crux pitch. Nic led that - several full on jamming sections and some exciting traversing, would be a gnarly grit HVS! I did a long pitch up vertical flakes which all felt a bit suspect but were ok if a bit damp in places - didn't really enjoy it! Nic carried on up a slanting chimney/groove line and carried on moving together up easy ground up and right. I finished off to get onto the ridge just right of the gendarme. We did it in 11 pitches with some moving together. Nic spotted the ab station amongst the swirling clouds at a pointe about 30m along the ridge away from the gendarme. The ab line is more or less straight down to the slabby middle section and has at least one new bolt on each station, happy days! Then a few more abs down the slabby section, not quite following the route we took on the way up. The ab stations there are older but ok. Nightmare to sort the ropes out though as it isn't steep enough! About 12 abs in total. Not the best weather and conditions - started off cold and damp in places as out of the sun, then just as the sun crept round around midday the clouds came in and we were in the clag for the rest of the day with visibility mostly down to a pitch! On the ridge at 5pm, back down at 7.30pm so had to walk down, which was another two and a half hours. Second time I've walked down that path so knew it was long but had forgotten just how long - murder on the legs! Overall, some good, fun climbing, especially in the chimney section and on the crux but much of the rest is nothing to write home about, so I think the two stars given here is right. Would no doubt have enjoyed it more in the sunshine!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/14 with Nic
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/14
Wet & fun. Abbed after difficulties.
jimmatthews - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/14 with Stuart Bygrave, Chris Andrews
climbed 10 pitches and bailed from swirling clouds and so jessie could get the lift back whilst I took the shoelace express. Perfect granite, imposing chimney pitch!
ndraper1 - 25/Jul/14
kelliroberts3 - AltLd - 06/Jul/14 with Peter Rigby
Pete Rigby - 06/Jul/14 with Kelli Roberts
Abbed off after awesome chimney pitch, climbed slowly.
fulton333 - AltLd dnf - Jul/14 with Iasiah, Charlie Edwards
mike mo - 2014
Climbed passed the chimneys(alot harder than expected) then bailed so ally could get lift back.
Sam Simpson - AltLd dnf - 04/Sep/13 with Ally Hurst
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/Sep/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/13
James Thacker - 2013
jcw - 2013
Dave Searle - 2013
Tricky route finding. The chimney pitches felt harder than VI+!
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Misha Gopaul
Great route - made up for failing about twenty years ago. Very tiring though if you are the rucksack carrier.
Colin Knowles - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12
chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/12
To the top of the gendarme. Excellent!
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/12 with Chris Allan
Upto halfway but slwo parties in front would have meant we missed the last lift so bailed.
Ollie B - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/12 with T.Livinstone
what he said. great climbing though
Tom Livingstone - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/12 with Ollie Burrows
Hidden - 2012
Drew M - AltLd - Sep/11 with Fred Lyon
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/10
liz j - 06/Sep/10 with Matt Dickinson
tumbling wizard - Aug/10 with andrew marshall
With bags, moved together on 4+ pitches, charles led the 6a+
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Charles Spanyard
C Mclean - AltLd - Jul/10 with Tom Nichols
Started snowing/raining 4 pitches from top so had to abseil off :-(
HamishD - AltLd dnf - 13/Sep/09 with sergey, tom grant
inuklm - 23/Aug/09 with Dave Gent
davidgent - 23/Aug/09 with Kunal
Somerset swede basher - AltLd - 10/Jul/08 with George Taylor
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06
dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Felix Coxwell
feilx - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Dan Barbour
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/03
Hidden - Aug/03
NeilGriffiths - 2002 with James Hubbard
dan gibson - Lead O/S - Aug/01 with helen gibson
Grezza - AltLd - Jun/01 with Paul E
stokesrees - Lead - 1997 with Ryan Brown
NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/96 with LiamG
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/95
alkira - 06/Aug/93 with harvey mullen
alkira - 06/Aug/93 with bruce goodlad
ste_d - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/92 with mik
mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/92 with Steven Delderfield
Had to lead all pitchs 'cos had damaged both thumbs kayaking. could only clip gear ....no unclipping. Finnished up SSSW arete of Aig. du Paine in a storm had to cut ropes, nearly died!!!!!!!!!!!
Tony Kartawick - Lead O/S - Aug/90 with James Thomas
this part of the route was smooth.
getting off from the summit was epic
Tony Kartawick - AltLd rpt - Aug/90 with James Thomas
Hidden - AltLd - Jun/89
did the SW ridge after
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/88 with steve williams
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/88
Richard Weller - Jul/86 with john sanders
garywalker147 - AltLd - 1986
Lone Rider - AltLd - 1986
John Marsland - 05/Aug/85 with Dave Soles
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/85
garywalker147 - AltLd - 1985 with Alistair
Hidden - Jun/84
jasper11 - 1984 with Gaz Morgan
John Marsland - AltLd dnf - Aug/83 with Paul Cook
Hidden - Aug/82
mark-abz - AltLd - Aug/81 with ?
First sighting of a jammed 'Friend'
Brilliant route - perfect for a gritstone jammer.
Falko - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/80 with Al W.
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/78