Haute Savoie > Aiguille du Peigne >
Vaucher Route (SW Face)** TD

Adjacent Climbs
<< Papillons Ridge
North Eperon (3rd Tower Papillons Ridge) >>
400m, 14 pitches. 13-14 pitches, good belays, nice chimney at half height and crux roof pitch thereafter. Descent is bit tricky as the best rap line is, if one comes up on the far left pointe, found by traversing to the next pointe and locating the rap rings that are on the SW side providing a straight shot down to where boots and bags are left at beginning of climb (think about 10 raps, all with solid rap ring anchors).

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

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This climb is in 61 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Very wet and cold so progress was slow. The 5c Chimney was pretty tough and we got above the hard climbing 3-4 pitches from the top.
chris687 - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/14 with Stuart Bygrave, james matthews

climbed 10 pitches and bailed from swirling clouds and so jessie could get the lift back whilst I took the shoelace express. Perfect granite, imposing chimney pitch!
ndraper1 - 25/Jul/14

kelliroberts3 - AltLd - 06/Jul/14 with Peter Rigby

Pete Rigby - 06/Jul/14 with Kelli Roberts

mike mo - 2014

Climbed passed the chimneys(alot harder than expected) then bailed so ally could get lift back.
Sam Simpson - AltLd dnf - 04/Sep/13 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/13

James Thacker - 2013

jcw - 2013

Dave Searle - 2013

Tricky route finding. The chimney pitches felt harder than VI+!
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Misha Gopaul

Great route - made up for failing about twenty years ago. Very tiring though if you are the rucksack carrier.
Colin Knowles - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/12

To the top of the gendarme. Excellent!
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/12 with Chris Allan

Upto halfway but slwo parties in front would have meant we missed the last lift so bailed.
Ollie B - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/12 with T.Livinstone

what he said. great climbing though
Tom Livingstone - AltLd dnf - 27/Jul/12 with Ollie Burrows

Hidden - 2012

Drew M - AltLd - Sep/11 with Fred Lyon

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/10

liz j - 06/Sep/10 with Matt Dickinson

tumbling wizard - Aug/10 with andrew marshall

With bags, moved together on 4+ pitches, charles led the 6a+
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Charles Spanyard

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/10

Started snowing/raining 4 pitches from top so had to abseil off :-(
HamishD - AltLd dnf - 13/Sep/09 with sergey, tom grant

inuklm - 23/Aug/09 with Dave Gent

davidgent - 23/Aug/09 with Kunal

Somerset swede basher - AltLd - 10/Jul/08 with George Taylor

mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Felix Coxwell

feilx - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Dan Barbour

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/03

Hidden - Aug/03

NeilGriffiths - 2002 with James Hubbard

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Aug/01 with helen gibson

Grezza - AltLd - Jun/01 with Paul E

stokesrees - Lead - 1997 with Ryan Brown

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/96 with LiamG

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/95

alkira - 06/Aug/93 with harvey mullen

alkira - 06/Aug/93 with bruce goodlad

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/92 with mik

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/92 with Steven Delderfield

Had to lead all pitchs 'cos had damaged both thumbs kayaking. could only clip gear ....no unclipping. Finnished up SSSW arete of Aig. du Paine in a storm had to cut ropes, nearly died!!!!!!!!!!!
Tony Kartawick - Lead O/S - Aug/90 with James Thomas

this part of the route was smooth. getting off from the summit was epic
Tony Kartawick - AltLd rpt - Aug/90 with James Thomas

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/89

did the SW ridge after
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/88 with steve williams

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/88

Richard Weller - Jul/86 with john sanders

garywalker147 - AltLd - 1986

John Marsland - 05/Aug/85 with Dave Soles

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/85

garywalker147 - AltLd - 1985 with Alistair

Hidden - Jun/84

jasper11 - 1984 with Gaz Morgan

John Marsland - AltLd dnf - Aug/83 with Paul Cook

Hidden - Aug/82

mark-abz - AltLd - Aug/81 with ?

First sighting of a jammed 'Friend' Brilliant route - perfect for a gritstone jammer.
Falko - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/80 with Al W.

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Timothy Miller, Hidden, Hidden, andybuckley, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 7
hard TD+0 of 4
TD+0 of 4
easy TD+1 of 4
hard TD0 of 4
TD3 of 4
easy TD0 of 4
hard TD-0 of 4
TD-0 of 4
easy TD-0 of 4
3 Stars0 of 3
2 Stars3 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
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Style of ascent

Lead3 of 61 (4.9%)
Followed1 of 61 (1.6%)
Alt Leads37 of 61 (60.7%)
Unknown20 of 61 (32.8%)

'Climbed'35 of 61 (57.4%)
clean O/S18 of 61 (29.5%)
clean rpt1 of 61 (1.6%)
dnf7 of 61 (11.5%)