400m, 14 pitches. 13-14 pitches, good belays, nice chimney at half height and crux roof pitch thereafter. Descent is bit tricky as the best rap line is, if one comes up on the far left pointe, found by traversing to the next pointe and locating the rap rings that are on the SW side providing a straight shot down to where boots and bags are left at beginning of climb (think about 10 raps, all with solid rap ring anchors).

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Hidden 12/Aug AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug AltLd
RosePearson 22/Jul AltLd rpt

Lead crux and ~11 of the pitches.

with Jaz Morris
alexm198 10/Jul AltLd O/S

Nice route on good granite, though the grades shouldn't be underestimated - proper old school thuggery, serious value. After the chimney pitch we headed up too high rather than traversing right on the terrace as seems to be the way, and ended up on a super gnarly crack/slab nightmare...

Hidden 10/Jul AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun AltLd
walts4 06/Jun -
with monty
monsteratt 06/Jun AltLd O/S

Great day out, interesting pitches, climbed in good style and speed. Avoided thunder and lightning. Happy bunnies

with Peter
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 21/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Misha 21/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

A long day! Turned up at the lift to find it was delayed by an hour due to fresh snow at the top. About 45 mins to approach with a short neve at the end, crampons useful but no need for an axe. Started the route at 9am. I started out hoping to link the first two pitches and get to the terrace. Easy climbing led to more difficult ground in the same line, which proved pretty exciting as it was damp and both my fingers and toes were cold! After negotiating a tricky section I belayed on old bolts and gear and Nic led through up a damp groove - great lead, I found it sketchy seconding! Never before have I had to pull on frozen grass when rock climbing! All this easily cost us an hour. In fact there's a bolted belay slightly to the left at around 40m and the pitch above that is fairly easy and dry (saw it on abseil). Overall it's about 70m to the terrace as had to scramble down a bit on our last ab down from the terrace. I led the easy groove above the right hand end of the terrace, Nic led the easy ground above and moved together for the next pitch (a bit tricky in places) to get to the shallow groove below the chimney. I did a long pitch to belay on pegs and gear below the squeeze chimney. Nic led that (thankfully easy, actually not much chimneying involved!) and the tricky groove above to a platform. All very traditional on this section. I did the tricky crack on the left (camptocamp suggested French 4c - it's harder!), traversing right to a platform below the crux pitch. Nic led that - several full on jamming sections and some exciting traversing, would be a gnarly grit HVS! I did a long pitch up vertical flakes which all felt a bit suspect but were ok if a bit damp in places - didn't really enjoy it! Nic carried on up a slanting chimney/groove line and carried on moving together up easy ground up and right. I finished off to get onto the ridge just right of the gendarme. We did it in 11 pitches with some moving together. Nic spotted the ab station amongst the swirling clouds at a pointe about 30m along the ridge away from the gendarme. The ab line is more or less straight down to the slabby middle section and has at least one new bolt on each station, happy days! Then a few more abs down the slabby section, not quite following the route we took on the way up. The ab stations there are older but ok. Nightmare to sort the ropes out though as it isn't steep enough! About 12 abs in total. Not the best weather and conditions - started off cold and damp in places as out of the sun, then just as the sun crept round around midday the clouds came in and we were in the clag for the rest of the day with visibility mostly down to a pitch! On the ridge at 5pm, back down at 7.30pm so had to walk down, which was another two and a half hours. Second time I've walked down that path so knew it was long but had forgotten just how long - murder on the legs! Overall, some good, fun climbing, especially in the chimney section and on the crux but much of the rest is nothing to write home about, so I think the two stars given here is right. Would no doubt have enjoyed it more in the sunshine!

with Nic
chris687 27/Jul/14 AltLd dnf

Very wet and cold so progress was slow. The 5c Chimney was pretty tough and we got above the hard climbing 3-4 pitches from the top.

with Stuart Bygrave, james matthews
jimmatthews 27/Jul/14 AltLd dnf

Wet & fun. Abbed after difficulties.

with Stuart Bygrave, Chris Andrews
ndraper1 25/Jul/14 -

climbed 10 pitches and bailed from swirling clouds and so jessie could get the lift back whilst I took the shoelace express. Perfect granite, imposing chimney pitch!

RosePearson 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

With Rhys, he lead crux.

kelliroberts3 06/Jul/14 AltLd
Pete Rigby 06/Jul/14 -
with Kelli Roberts
fulton333 ?/Jul/14 AltLd dnf

Abbed off after awesome chimney pitch, climbed slowly.

with Iasiah, Charlie Edwards
mike mo ??/2014 -
Sam Simpson 04/Sep/13 AltLd dnf

Climbed passed the chimneys(alot harder than expected) then bailed so ally could get lift back.

Hidden 04/Sep/13 AltLd dnf
Hidden 29/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
James Thacker ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Dave Searle ??/2013 -
Stuart Johnston 14/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Tricky route finding. The chimney pitches felt harder than VI+!

with Misha Gopaul
Colin Knowles 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Great route - made up for failing about twenty years ago. Very tiring though if you are the rucksack carrier.

chrisallan 31/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 30/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

To the top of the gendarme. Excellent!

Ollie B 27/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

Upto halfway but slwo parties in front would have meant we missed the last lift so bailed.

with T.Livinstone
Tom Livingstone 27/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

what he said. great climbing though

Hidden ??/2012 -
Drew M ?/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 06/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
liz j 06/Sep/10 -
with Matt Dickinson
tumbling wizard ?/Aug/10 -
with andrew marshall
stuart34 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

With bags, moved together on 4+ pitches, charles led the 6a+

with Charles Spanyard
C Mclean ?/Jul/10 AltLd
with Tom Nichols
HamishD 13/Sep/09 AltLd dnf

Started snowing/raining 4 pitches from top so had to abseil off :-(

with sergey, tom grant
inuklm 23/Aug/09 -
with Dave Gent
davidgent 23/Aug/09 -
with Kunal
Somerset swede basher 10/Jul/08 AltLd
with George Taylor
mattyork2 ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
feilx ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Phil Ingle 28/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with John Rosbotham
Hidden ?/Aug/03 -
NeilGriffiths ??/2002 -
with James Hubbard
dan gibson ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Grezza ?/Jun/01 AltLd


with Paul E
stokesrees ??/1997 Lead
with Ryan Brown
NickJH ?/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
with LiamG
Hidden ?/Aug/95 AltLd
alkira 06/Aug/93 -
with harvey mullen
alkira 06/Aug/93 -
with bruce goodlad
ste_d 25/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 25/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
Tony Kartawick ?/Aug/90 Lead O/S

Had to lead all pitchs 'cos had damaged both thumbs kayaking. could only clip gear ....no unclipping. Finnished up SSSW arete of Aig. du Paine in a storm had to cut ropes, nearly died!!!!!!!!!!!

with James Thomas
Tony Kartawick ?/Aug/90 AltLd rpt

this part of the route was smooth. getting off from the summit was epic

with James Thomas
Alan James - UKC and UKH 06/Aug/89 AltLd
with Phil Baker
Hidden ?/Jun/89 AltLd
michael burrows 26/Jul/88 AltLd O/S

did the SW ridge after

with steve williams
Hidden ?/Jul/88 AltLd
Richard Weller ?/Jul/86 -
with john sanders
garywalker147 ??/1986 AltLd
Lone Rider ??/1986 AltLd
John Marsland 05/Aug/85 -
with Dave Soles
Hidden ?/Aug/85 AltLd
garywalker147 ??/1985 AltLd
with Alistair
Hidden ?/Jun/84 -
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
with Gaz Morgan
John Marsland ?/Aug/83 AltLd dnf
with Paul Cook
Nevil ?/Aug/82 -
with Jon
mark-abz ?/Aug/81 AltLd
with ?
Falko 01/Aug/80 AltLd O/S

First sighting of a jammed 'Friend' Brilliant route - perfect for a gritstone jammer.

with Al W.
Hidden ?/Aug/78 AltLd
uphillnow ?/Aug/78 Lead
with Andy Bennett
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, LJKing, benclimbing, Timothy Miller, Hidden, Hidden, andybuckley, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
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Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
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