Rockfax Description
The right-hand crack-system continues the theme of excellence.
Start at a slight bulge with a good jug above it.
Pull onto the wall using the jug and continue to the overlap. Pull through the overlap and take the long crack to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Strenuous pull up to ledge then straight to overlap highest point; get feet up high with smears to make the overlap without difficulty and then straight up to obvious belay using old 'tat'

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
tompilgrem 02/Oct TR O/S
with Harry, John
RachelP 21/Sep 2nd
rich_hw 18/Sep Lead O/S
with Nikki
crag_whitelamb 17/Sep Lead
Hidden 18/Aug 2nd
91dave 06/Aug 2nd O/S
will_benfold 06/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug 2nd
trouserburp 06/Aug Lead O/S
Motown 19/Jul Lead O/S

Hard pull through the overlap.

EllieWoods 09/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul -
Bob M 06/Jul 2nd
with Nick Foot, Scott Titt
Hidden ?/Jul 2nd O/S
Lee_Meaden 29/May Lead O/S
with Emily Craig
Woolly 24/Apr 2nd
with Donald
crater 24/Apr Lead rpt
with steve
andy_pemberton 08/Apr Lead

It seems that the adjacent fin has collapsed onto the bottom of the route. No pull onto the wall needed, just step off the blocks.

with Steve Gibson
DanChad 02/Apr Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 02/Apr 2nd

Moving through the overlap on this felt harder than on the nearby HVS'.

JackM92 30/Mar Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Mar 2nd O/S
David Staples 25/Mar Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 28/Feb Lead
Hidden 28/Feb 2nd
Joel Perkin 28/Feb TR rpt
with Jelly Mould Surfer, Big Rob
G Weatherley 25/Feb Lead O/S

Very straightforward climbing for the most part with one difficult move to get through the step.

with Ed Walker
jhobbs 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Jackislav 21/Sep/15 2nd
spgibbs 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
benjaminloveday 03/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 31/Aug/15 2nd rpt

Ed and Guy

Hidden 06/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Adam Hill 10/Jul/15 Lead
with Simon
Bob M 08/Jul/15 Lead

Tough move over the overlap, but very well protected. VS 5a.

Norman_P_W 08/Jul/15 2nd
with Bob M
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
cpoad 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Clare F
alex toomey 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Tom E
The Big Sender 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
phil456 21/May/15 2nd O/S
with Graham M
Maywood96 17/May/15 2nd
ChrisGard 17/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead O/S
nmott 18/Apr/15 2nd
with Donald
crater 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

bit of a one move wonder, not much gear on top slab

with nicky
Hidden 18/Apr/15 TR
JoeCoxson 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Crux is a bit awkward, but well protected.

Wendy Watthews 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Darren Pyke, Kristy Wallace
Ana Broad 04/Apr/15 TR
with Emma
Hidden 04/Apr/15 TR
Maywood96 21/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
adamre12 21/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/15 2nd
Woolly 20/Mar/15 Lead
with Bob Dawson
Hidden 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
s.thursz 14/Mar/15 2nd
dbrooks 08/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Gareth
Chris the Tall 01/Oct/14 Lead O/S

It may have because I was a bit rusty, but the overlap move felt more like 5a to me. Well protected though, and easy above and below

Mark Kemball 01/Oct/14 2nd

I agree with Chris - vs 5a

duncan 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
tom169 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Amy
Hidden 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S
steven703 28/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/14 2nd RP
sheelba 23/Aug/14 Lead
twoplates 18/Aug/14 AltLd
with Sally Wheatley
steveprice.exmouth 21/Jun/14 Lead
with Silvia
silviac 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
EllieWoods 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with pete belfield, Sarah Welsh
Sarah Welsh 21/Jun/14 Lead
RANGITOTO 01/Jun/14 Lead
with Pete
martin clarke 31/May/14 Lead rpt

I

stephen ashworth 31/May/14 Lead
with martin clarke
steveprice.exmouth 14/May/14 2nd
with Graham Mead
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Marti999 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 17/Jan/14 2nd O/S
Woolly 17/Jan/14 Lead
Matthew Riddell ??/2014 -
Big Lee 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Hard moves through the roof. Easy before and after. A bit stressful as the tide was seriously high.

annak 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead
Slick 07/Sep/13 2nd
with Mark VR, Isabel Evans
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
GPN 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Annette
net 08/Jul/13 2nd
with George
rockpool 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

a complicated sequence of moves to surmount the overlap but doesnt warrant a vs 4c none the less very enjoyable climbing well protected.

Lumbering Oaf 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Paul
MinHazeldine 21/Jun/13 2nd
Dave Rumney 26/May/13 Lead
with Tanya Milner
Hidden 25/May/13 -
timstyles 18/May/13 2nd dog

Fell off at the overlap on the first attempt. Definitely a harder move than the other 4c routes.

jon bradley 18/May/13 2nd O/S
with Brian Vaughan
Bobling 11/May/13 Lead

Hard move through overhang, felt tough, took a fall. Sad.

with Dave L
BALD EAGLE 11/May/13 2nd
TimKnight 06/May/13 2nd O/S
with Dave Marshall
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 29/Apr/13 -
Hidden 29/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Apr/13 -
Fletch 01/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Sean Mercer
tompilgrem 31/Mar/13 TR O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 31/Mar/13 TR O/S
with Tom
stevorobs3 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
dready 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S

with ben the overhang's tricky

Skip 03/Mar/13 TR O/S
Hidden 13/Jan/13 Lead
oscaig 20/Oct/12 Lead dog

Foot slipped making the overlap move and took a short fall held by small wires on the lip. It went second go. Bit of a one move wonder really but the move is awkward!

kim.mulji 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Ben seaman ?/Oct/12 TR O/S
Woolly 29/Sep/12 Lead
with Nick Donohue
nickdonohue ?/Sep/12 2nd
with Steve Woollard
Whitmoreaa 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Dan Pinkney
Jelly Mould Surfer 15/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Cleared my route of shame - clean lead. It's still one hard move, probably top end 5a

Joel Perkin 19/May/12 2nd O/S
with Dad
Jelly Mould Surfer 19/May/12 Lead dog

One hard move, my feet kept breaking free as I tried to step over the overlap. Well protected with small wires. Severe 5b?

Hamish777 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Andrea
andrea83 07/Apr/12 2nd RP

Lead initially but had rest before overhang, unnecessary as well protected...

with Hamish
Felix Ottey 07/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead
stephen ashworth 06/Apr/12 2nd
with nick andrews
Ian JL 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/12 2nd
Emily Smith 11/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 11/Feb/12 2nd O/S
John Tanner 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Nov/11 2nd
Doug miller 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Rob84 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Rich Patterson
Philippa Arding 14/Oct/11 2nd
with jo nosworthy
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
climbhannahclimb 28/Sep/11 Lead
althesin 26/Sep/11 2nd
with Reds
Reds 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
knicos 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Nicole Blake, Paul Salmon
col3 18/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Bit sketchy. Quite awkward moves over the overhang - have to trust friction! Glad I managed not to fall off.

with Nick, Paul
Paul1 18/Aug/11 2nd

we thought that it was a Severe. Felt harder than little dribbler (HVS 5a) but well protected.

with Nick, Nicole
Hidden 18/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/11 Lead O/S
asmith37 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
Woolly 02/Jul/11 2nd
jakenichol 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tskelhon 05/Jun/11 2nd
haylow 05/Jun/11 2nd
Jon_Warner 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S

hard move for VS

with Tom
sbc 17/May/11 Lead dog
with Joe M
BenRyle 17/May/11 Lead O/S
CharlotteMilner 17/May/11 2nd O/S
timreynolds 02/May/11 Lead
with Chris Clayton-Jones
Donald Kelly 28/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Stu C&C
Zoomer 26/Apr/11 Lead β

Jules backed off. Solid VS 4c minimum.

Jules 210681 26/Apr/11 2nd
jkarran 25/Apr/11 Lead
with Pete
Tristan Sherlock 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 21/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Only one hard move, but it's pretty tricky.

crossdressingrodney 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd
dabreen 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
krishewz 18/Mar/11 2nd
DOVEY 09/Mar/11 Lead

one hard move

with Billie x
Ybot Htulk 22/Jan/11 Lead
with Richard
Tom Seccombe 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Tj murray 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 09/Oct/10 2nd
with Steve Webster
sdi 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tom K
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
jak.kelly 11/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Dave Lacey 11/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Aug/10 -
decs 03/Jul/10 AltLd
with David Barlow
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Woolly 13/Jun/10 Lead
with Bob Dawson
Luuuuuke 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 18/Apr/10 -
with AlanB, Ali
Quarryboy 17/Apr/10 TR O/S

a bit of a 1 move wonder

with Dave Elder, David Bradbrook
vertically_challenged 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S

found the overlap more tricky than expected.

GC 20/Feb/10 2nd O/S
with Peter Williams
worklessclimbmore ??/2010 Lead β
with Max fitzgerald
Hidden ??/2010 -
El3ctroFuzz 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Not bad, easier than it looks from the ground.

with Ian Luscombe
Lummy41 23/Jun/09 2nd
with Tom Bunn
Monkey_Alan 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

First VS! Tricky move to get past the overlap, otherwise easy.

with Stella Moggs
leonjones 13/Jun/09 2nd
with Max Streeton
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
mick1jones 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Mike Guttridge
a_d_tru 15/Sep/07 Lead
with Alistair
Dan Shirley 02/May/07 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 03/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Aug/96 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/96 Lead
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 45
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set