Wally 1*** E2 5c
Brilliant climbing up the slabby wall on the right of the East Bay - as good as short outcrop routes get. Plenty of gear and some good rests, but scarcely any moves below 5b! High in the grade.

Ticklists: Central Belt - Local Classics, Progression.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 56 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Looks shit from bottom but it's a great sustained climb with ledge a third of way up. Chuft to get the onsight. Had a fight for it.
John McKenna - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/15 with Hugh Simons

Was cruising up until the crux when my right foot popped having had to rest at the same point on my attempt on Sunday. Immediately jumped back on, led on 2nd attempt of the day, so 3rd overall. Gear all over this route - offsets were fantastic. Absolutely awesome route!
Hugh Simons - Lead RP - 21/Jul/15 with John McKenna, David McKinney

Awesome climbing. Great rests at half way point, sustained thereafter. Had to take a rest near the top, when I got the moves after the rest I was kicking myself as I was so close! Next time... Much harder than Welcome to the Cruise.
Hugh Simons - Lead dog - 18/Jul/15 with David McKinney

olekemi - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/15 with Jeremy M, Mark G

Awesome climbing, very techy. but generally not too intimidating! the gear was generally good and rests weren't too hard to find. Used my first legit fist jam!
CaelanB - Lead O/S - 24/May/15 with Joe Barlow

Reachy and thin with overhead protection.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 19/May/15 with DCBBB (Robert Durran)

Tried this a couple of years ago and sat on the gear near the top pumped out of my mind. No such problems today.
james1978 - Lead rpt - 12/May/15 with doug

Hidden - 2nd - 12/May/15

Techy
Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/15 with Dave O

2 falls. One from starting moves but more to do with leader tentativeness. Great and difficult climbing from then on. Got stuck at the top 'pod' couldn't work feet high enough and fell from there. Tried hard though. Nails.
Stevie989 - Lead dnf - 02/Oct/14 with Fiend

Sub optimal conditions, but no excuse - greased out of good jam. Fine with less pump.
salix - Lead dog - 11/Aug/14 with Topher

Dr Toph - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/14 with Will

Harry Holmes - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/14 with Adele Chabert

looks like someone's taken a tar brush to it but the rock is just fine and the climbing is excellent.
ferdia - 2nd - 05/May/14 with Andy

Really good, despite manky appearance.
Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Ferdia

Brilliant route! Hard E2 and well worth 3 stars. Very sustained!
Martin McKenna - UKC - Lead G/U - 26/Mar/14

sikcby - Lead β - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13

cat22 - 2nd - 11/Jul/13 with Mike

Just for fun x4 F, Brilliant Route.
Denpov - TR rpt - 05/Jun/12

GOt it clean today on my 4th attempt. :o)
Denpov - TR RP - 25/May/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Jul/11

woop. That bush at the top needs trimmed though, a bit irritating tickling your face as you try to locate holds!
sneaks - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/11 with janey

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/11

Self-belay.
Denpov - TR rpt - 20/Jun/11

Finally climbed it clean after my 9th attempt lol. Fantastic route. :o)
Denpov - TR RP - 14/Jun/11

sophiecb - TR - 06/Jun/11 with Neil

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - TR - 16/Apr/11

Self-belay. 5 times I tried this route without climbing it clean. Will be back to try again soon. :o)
Denpov - TR dog - 29/Mar/11

Scottish78 - 2011

MonkeyDawson - 2011

Back meaning business this time!! Classic Edinburgh E2 test piece
sebrider - Lead RP - 08/Sep/10 with Alex

dirty and in painful new shoes... didn't really enjoy
Sam the Butcher - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with andy latta

Fell off crux, damn this route is a bit hard...but really nice!
sebrider - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10 with Jason2

sustained sandbag. Excellent lead by Seb.
jazzyjackson - 2nd - 15/Jun/10 with sebrider

lower groove was excellent, upper section not as fun, greasy, imperfect finger locks.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Chris, Claire Holland

squidgebob - TR - 2010 with Chris BL, jamie

Lovely starting moves, upper section took some thinking about, but goes nicely with bomber gear.
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/09 with Ally Hill

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Jul/09

Excellent route, deserves more traffic. Great gear, and some tricky moves near the top.
kevg - 2nd β - 08/Jul/09 with Fraser

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/09

HARD!!
beegsyboy - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/08 with Al

Awesome climbing. Thin, technical and slabby to start, steap, bold (not if you can hang on and place gear) and technical to finish. Pretty bloody hard!
andymoin - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with ally

whispering nic - Lead - Jun/06

greenroom - Lead O/S - 2001

Chad123 - Lead O/S - May/00 with Various

Beardyman - Lead O/S - 2000

babymoac - 2nd - 30/May/99 with Chris F

NickBrown - Lead dog - 1998 with Tim

Duncan I - Lead - 1993

Alastair R - Lead O/S - 1989

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 22/Jul/83 with Rab Young

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hugh Simons, David Woods, CaelanB, HaddRoots, Stevie989, gurumed, Neil Mackenzie, BWoodward, Ian Jones, jazzyjackson

Voting
Total votes cast 73
hard E30 of 25
E30 of 25
easy E34 of 25
hard E215 of 25
E26 of 25
easy E20 of 25
hard E10 of 25
E10 of 25
easy E10 of 25
hard 6a0 of 25
6a0 of 25
easy 6a1 of 25
hard 5c12 of 25
5c12 of 25
easy 5c0 of 25
hard 5b0 of 25
5b0 of 25
easy 5b0 of 25
3 Stars15 of 23
2 Stars7 of 23
1 Star1 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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