Midlothian > Ratho Quarry >
Wally 1*** E2 5c

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Brilliant climbing up the slabby wall on the right of the East Bay - as good as short outcrop routes get. Plenty of gear and some good rests, but scarcely any moves below 5b! High in the grade.

Ticklists: One for Edinburgh-based climbers.

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This climb is in 44 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Harry Holmes - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/14 with Adele Chabert

looks like someone's taken a tar brush to it but the rock is just fine and the climbing is excellent.
ferdia - 2nd - 05/May/14 with Andy

Really good, despite manky appearance.
Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Ferdia

Brilliant route! Hard E2 and well worth 3 stars. Very sustained!
martinmckenna - Lead - 26/Mar/14 with Nick SUMC

sikcby - Lead β - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13

cat22 - 2nd - 11/Jul/13 with Mike

Just for fun x4 F, Brilliant Route.
Denpov - TR rpt - 05/Jun/12

GOt it clean today on my 4th attempt. :o)
Denpov - TR RP - 25/May/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Jul/11

woop. That bush at the top needs trimmed though, a bit irritating tickling your face as you try to locate holds!
sneaks - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/11 with janey

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/11

Denpov - TR rpt - 20/Jun/11

Finally climbed it clean after my 9th attempt lol. Fantastic route. :o)
Denpov - TR RP - 14/Jun/11

sophiecb - TR - 06/Jun/11 with Neil

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - TR - 16/Apr/11

Self-belay. 5 times I tried this route without climbing it clean. Will be back to try again soon. :o)
Denpov - TR dog - 29/Mar/11

Scottish78 - 2011

MonkeyDawson - 2011

Back meaning business this time!! Classic Edinburgh E2 test piece
sebrider - Lead RP - 08/Sep/10 with Alex

dirty and in painful new shoes... didn't really enjoy
Sam the Butcher - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with andy latta

Fell off crux, damn this route is a bit hard...but really nice!
sebrider - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10 with Jason2

sustained sandbag. Excellent lead by Seb.
jazzyjackson - 2nd - 15/Jun/10 with sebrider

lower groove was excellent, upper section not as fun, greasy, imperfect finger locks.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Chris, Claire

squidgebob - TR - 2010 with Chris BL, jamie

Lovely starting moves, upper section took some thinking about, but goes nicely with bomber gear.
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/09 with Ally Hill

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Aug/09

Dog-tastic! Nice climbing though, but got completely flummoxed at the 'crossroads pocket'....not a lot for the feet. Could really do with a good clean too.
Fraser - Lead dog - 08/Jul/09 with Kev

Excellent route, deserves more traffic. Great gear, and some tricky moves near the top.
kevg - 2nd β - 08/Jul/09 with Fraser

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/09

beegsyboy - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/08 with Al

Awesome climbing. Thin, technical and slabby to start, steap, bold (not if you can hang on and place gear) and technical to finish. Pretty bloody hard!
andymoin - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with ally

whispering nic - Lead - Jun/06

greenroom - Lead O/S - 2001

Chad123 - Lead O/S - May/00 with Various

Beardyman - Lead O/S - 2000

babymoac - 2nd - 30/May/99 with Chris F

NickBrown - Lead dog - 1998 with Tim

Duncan I - Lead - 1993

Alastair R - Lead O/S - 1989

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 22/Jul/83 with Rab Young

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gurumed, Hidden, Neil Mackenzie, BWoodward, Ian Jones, jazzyjackson

Total votes cast 52
hard E30 of 18
E30 of 18
easy E33 of 18
hard E210 of 18
E25 of 18
easy E20 of 18
hard E10 of 18
E10 of 18
easy E10 of 18
hard 6a0 of 18
6a0 of 18
easy 6a0 of 18
hard 5c9 of 18
5c9 of 18
easy 5c0 of 18
hard 5b0 of 18
5b0 of 18
easy 5b0 of 18
3 Stars10 of 16
2 Stars5 of 16
1 Star1 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead24 of 44 (54.5%)
Followed9 of 44 (20.5%)
Toproped8 of 44 (18.2%)
Unknown3 of 44 (6.8%)

'Climbed'15 of 44 (34.1%)
clean O/S14 of 44 (31.8%)
clean β2 of 44 (4.5%)
clean rpt5 of 44 (11.4%)
clean RP4 of 44 (9.1%)
dogged4 of 44 (9.1%)