Midlothian > Ratho Quarry >
 
Wally 1*** E2 5c

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Brilliant climbing up the slabby wall on the right of the East Bay - as good as short outcrop routes get. Plenty of gear and some good rests, but scarcely any moves below 5b! High in the grade.

Ticklists: One for Edinburgh-based climbers.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 41 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Brilliant route! Hard E2 and well worth 3 stars. Very sustained!
martinmckenna - Lead - 26/Mar/14 with Nick SUMC

sikcby - Lead β - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13

cat22 - 2nd - 11/Jul/13 with Mike

Hidden - TR rpt - 05/Jun/12

Hidden - TR RP - 25/May/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Jul/11

woop. That bush at the top needs trimmed though, a bit irritating tickling your face as you try to locate holds!
sneaks - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/11 with janey

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/11

Hidden - TR rpt - 20/Jun/11

Hidden - TR RP - 14/Jun/11

sophiecb - TR - 06/Jun/11 with Neil

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - TR - 16/Apr/11

Hidden - TR dog - 29/Mar/11

Scottish78 - 2011

MonkeyDawson - 2011

Back meaning business this time!! Classic Edinburgh E2 test piece
sebrider - Lead RP - 08/Sep/10 with Alex

dirty and in painful new shoes... didn't really enjoy
Sam the Butcher - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with andy latta

Fell off crux, damn this route is a bit hard...but really nice!
sebrider - Lead dog - 15/Jun/10 with Jason2

sustained sandbag. Excellent lead by Seb.
jazzyjackson - 2nd - 15/Jun/10 with sebrider

lower groove was excellent, upper section not as fun, greasy, imperfect finger locks.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Chris, Claire

squidgebob - TR - 2010 with Chris BL, jamie

Lovely starting moves, upper section took some thinking about, but goes nicely with bomber gear.
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/09 with Ally Hill

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Aug/09

Dog-tastic! Nice climbing though, but got completely flummoxed at the 'crossroads pocket'....not a lot for the feet. Could really do with a good clean too.
Fraser - Lead dog - 08/Jul/09 with Kev

Excellent route, deserves more traffic. Great gear, and some tricky moves near the top.
kevg - 2nd β - 08/Jul/09 with Fraser

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/09

HARD!!
beegsyboy - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/08 with Al

Awesome climbing. Thin, technical and slabby to start, steap, bold (not if you can hang on and place gear) and technical to finish. Pretty bloody hard!
andymoin - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with ally

whispering nic - Lead - Jun/06

greenroom - Lead O/S - 2001

Chad123 - Lead O/S - May/00 with Various

Beardyman - Lead O/S - 2000

babymoac - 2nd - 30/May/99 with Chris F

NickBrown - Lead dog - 1998 with Tim

Duncan I - Lead - 1993

Alastair R - Lead O/S - 1989

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 22/Jul/83 with Rab Young

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gurumed, Hidden, Neil Mackenzie, BWoodward, Ian Jones, jazzyjackson

Voting
Total votes cast 49
hard E30 of 17
E30 of 17
easy E33 of 17
hard E210 of 17
E24 of 17
easy E20 of 17
hard E10 of 17
E10 of 17
easy E10 of 17
hard 6a0 of 17
6a0 of 17
easy 6a0 of 17
hard 5c9 of 17
5c8 of 17
easy 5c0 of 17
hard 5b0 of 17
5b0 of 17
easy 5b0 of 17
3 Stars9 of 15
2 Stars5 of 15
1 Star1 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Lead22 of 41 (53.7%)
Followed8 of 41 (19.5%)
Toproped8 of 41 (19.5%)
Unknown3 of 41 (7.3%)

'Climbed'14 of 41 (34.1%)
clean O/S12 of 41 (29.3%)
clean β2 of 41 (4.9%)
clean rpt5 of 41 (12.2%)
clean RP4 of 41 (9.8%)
dogged4 of 41 (9.8%)