The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. B.Palmer, J.Jackson 19/Feb/2005.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JimOakleyAdventures | 17 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: First pitch good but the last 5ft at the top is super loose. Very careful slow approach required. | ||
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βeta: First pitch good but the last 5ft at the top is super loose. Very careful slow approach required. |
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Tall Oak | 2 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Fun climb. Does look like the rocks in the corner overhang are going to come off in no time at all. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fun climb. Does look like the rocks in the corner overhang are going to come off in no time at all. |
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archieharris2011 | 14 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Quick route to retrieve gear from Epic-Dural | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quick route to retrieve gear from Epic-Dural |
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JimOakleyAdventures | 1 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Just squeezed this route in before the rain.... First 5m has one or two pro but gets better as you reach the switchback left. A little loose at top but take care and check each hand hold. Stakes at top, then ab down next to “Lumber puncture” (No. 31) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Just squeezed this route in before the rain.... First 5m has one or two pro but gets better as you reach the switchback left. A little loose at top but take care and check each hand hold. Stakes at top, then ab down next to “Lumber puncture” (No. 31) |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Fairy Cave Quarry)