Gloucestershire > Ban-y-gor >
 
East of Sweden** 6b+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Blabba Mouth
 
Nelson Mandela >>
[East of Sweden on the Right Hand Escarpment, 4 kb]10m. start at an obvious side pull at full stretch from the ground.pull up and right then back left to good flat holds.make one more big move to the ledge and a good rest.traverse left and make a hard move back up and right to the hold below the third bolt(strenuous clip)high feet and a few slaps lead up and left to good holds and an easy finish to the lower off.

Photo: East of Sweden on the Right Hand Escarpment © drysori
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 145 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Rick hard Rock - Lead β - 13/Sep/14 with Dan Hobbs

Went to far left and fell off! Second went the right way!
daniel hobbs - Lead RP - 13/Sep/14 with Rickhardrock

Hidden - Lead - Sep/14

hutchay - Lead dog - 21/Jul/14 with Dave Clover

hutchay - Lead dog - 20/Jul/14 with Emily Palmer

Jon Didymus - Lead β - 12/Jul/14 with Nick

Luuuuuke - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with martin, josh

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/14

Hidden - 20/Jun/14

dshearer - Lead RP - 19/Jun/14 with Paul Rogers

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jun/14

Trisha Murphy - 2nd β - 15/Jun/14 with Sam Robinson

simo - Lead RP - 11/Jun/14 with Fireman Dan

Tim W - Lead dog - 08/Jun/14 with Ali Kennedy

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/May/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/May/14

Way harder than 6b+ but really good
Cheese Monkey - Lead RP - 18/May/14 with Alex W

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Ben Darby

Carl Watkins - Lead RP - 07/May/14 with jasper

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

First 6b+.
James_L88 - Lead RP - 03/May/14 with Karl Gregory

UnkArl - Lead RP - 03/May/14 with James Long

Quite reachy? There were good holds, but pretty spaced.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/14 with Helen

couldn't work out move above 3rd clip
hms - Lead dog - 30/Apr/14 with Nick

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Mar/14

08nbrierley - Lead dog - 01/Mar/14 with pete

Needed a quick rest, would like to lead next time
jezb1 - TR - 28/Nov/13

chris687 - TR - 28/Nov/13 with jez brown, Jo Sumner

MorganPreece - Lead β - 02/Sep/13 with Ashlea Bennett, Matt Smith

panda70 - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/13 with James Oswald

skippington - Lead RP - 25/Aug/13

Spent myself working mandela, this was just a repeat for extra burn
petellis - Lead dog - 20/Jul/13 with Alpha Blue

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/13

holister - Lead RP - 11/Jul/13 with Hugh

Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Nick Eaton

Bates - Lead rpt - 05/Jul/13 with Hugh, ollie

petellis - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/13 with Alpha Blue

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/13 with Russ

Russtygibbons - Lead RP - 23/Jun/13 with Ant

Hidden - Lead RP - 22/Jun/13

GrantB - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13 with Alpha Red

Bates - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/13 with chrisscutt, Andy Brice

chrisscutt - Lead RP - 05/Jun/13 with andy, lee

One move after clipping the 3rd bolt feels quite hard for the grade!
Bates - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Pete swaine

henry peter jenkins - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with david proctor

Overated, not a good route.
dprctr - Lead RP - 26/May/13 with Dale Colver, Jake, Robbie Jenkins, Henry Jenkins

Ollie B - Lead - 12/May/13 with B.Gregory, B.Brewer

Aaron Lines - Lead β - 28/Apr/13 with frank ramsay

lukehodson - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Charlotte

aidanb - Lead β - 01/Apr/13

Good holds, quite pumpy, good rest at half height. Tried to kill myself with a 14m groundfall from the top!
Fluffybunnyslippers - Lead - 20/Sep/12 with Rhys Edwards

hard!!!
mike reed - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Jul/12

Cool crux moves
Joe Innes - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/12

Billg - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/12 with Bob Brewer

Very hard move half way.
Dizz - Lead dog - 09/Jun/12 with David B

Matt250 - Lead dog - 05/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 31/May/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 31/May/12

tedj234 - Lead - 31/May/12 with Dave Rose

tombeasley - Lead rpt - 24/May/12

Awesome route! Hard for the grade...much harder than some 6c's I've climbed!
Hannah Brading - Lead RP - 27/Mar/12 with Ian Brading, Gareth Brading

gb05 - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Ian Brading, Hannah Brading

s.c.white - Lead - 18/Mar/12 with Tim Ashlin

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Mar/12

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with stu

Thought I onsighted this again, but turned out I did it a couple of years ago but didnt remember it atall. Great route!
Mike Goldthorp - 01/Jan/12 with Hannah B, Fuzzy, Cailean Harker

NickHarms - 2012

tommytuffa - Lead rpt - 20/Oct/11 with Jack F

wolverine - Lead - 08/Oct/11 with Sarah Marks

Hannah Brading - 2nd RP - 04/Oct/11 with Cailean Harker

jack1996 - Lead - 29/Aug/11 with si

Hidden - Lead RP - 03/Aug/11

allydonald - Aug/11

One hard reachy move in the middle of the headwall but I thought the rest was pretty easy
Quarryboy - Lead β - 27/Jul/11 with Maya Holding, Mark Davies

Bloody bolts (2nd and 3rd) are in the wrong places. Can get up to the holds just below the 3rd clip but darent let go and clip it. Had to use clip stick (and extend the clip) before I could clip the rope. Basically moving up so that I can reach the bolt/clip means moving my feet into the big break .. I can then only hang on if I use both hands OR make the move to the next hold. I can't hang around to do anything like clipping! If the 3rd bolt was a little lower then this wouldnt be an issue and I would just climb straight throw but at the moment I just can't hang on and clip one handed.
Dax - Lead dog - 11/Jul/11 with Nick Harms

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/11

Dan Jenkin - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Rich Jenkin, Gordon Jenkin

tommytuffa - Lead RP - 22/May/11 with Aaron, edd, max

weakaaron - Lead β - 22/May/11

nice little climb
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with connor

con321 - Lead O/S - 19/May/11

Just couldn't make the 3rd clip .. hands didn't want too let go of the holds.
Dax - Lead dnf - 17/May/11 with Nick Harms

3 Names - Lead RP - 15/May/11 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/May/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/May/11

Dax - 2nd dog - 03/May/11 with Nick Harms

spicy spicy for 6b+!
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Rosea

Rosea Day - Lead RP - 30/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Apr/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Jay Kay

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11

NickHarms - 2011

tombeasley - Lead rpt - 19/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Sep/10

Christian Reynish - TR dog - 28/Aug/10 with stu

Kevster - Lead - 08/Aug/10

Sam W - Lead - 05/Aug/10 with Ben Smith

Nice route, gets a bit harder after the break but quite sustained overall.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Josh

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead β - 01/Jul/10

Claire S-J - 2nd - 08/Jun/10

Felt tougher than 6b+...
Jon_Warner - Lead dnf - 31/May/10 with Tom

SamStokes - Lead dog - 16/May/10 with Ben Matthews

brices - Lead RP - 2010

PowerPigtails - Lead RP - 17/Oct/09

JimR - 05/Sep/09

NIce enough climbing but too close to nelson mandela
richardr - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/09

dswansonlow - Lead dnf - 15/Aug/09 with jacob loyd

greasy.
jacobjlloyd - Lead dog - 15/Aug/09 with Dougie

Climbed to the "Fingery Crux" in one go (great climbing), then no idea?! Failed on top rope.
DorsetGareth - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/09 with Luke Marsden

Pumpy.
DafSWMC - Lead RP - 23/Jun/09 with Sam B, Gareth

gejones - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/09 with Daf/SamB

tombeasley - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/09 with Chris Cleave

lukewilliams - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09

Dan_Carroll - Lead RP - 24/May/09 with Eric Herring

maffujones - Lead - 08/May/09 with Jamie T

SeanyC - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/09 with JulianS

BenNorman - Lead RP - Feb/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead - 13/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 09/Jul/08

Bristoldave - Lead dog - 08/Jul/08 with Alex & Paz

Paz - Lead β - 08/Jul/08 with AM2, DR

Love this little sequence of moves!
SamStokes - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/08 with Emily Stokes

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Jun/08

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Tom Harrison

DafSWMC - Lead dog - 07/May/08 with Hash

a little out of my range
hash - TR dog - 07/May/08 with DafSWMC

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/08

Billg - Lead O/S - Mar/08 with Bob Brewer

Awesome, really enjoyed this, got lost in the climbing!
SamStokes - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Ben Matthews

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Aug/07

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/06 with Mark Courtiour

shoulders - Lead - 11/Jul/06 with chrisevans

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/06

cornishben - Lead O/S - 2005

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/95 with Dee Herbert

Nigel Coe - 2nd - Aug/89 with Gordon Jenkin

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, jameswhitty, cha1n, Rustyshanks

Voting
Total votes cast 71
hard 6c0 of 39
6c3 of 39
easy 6c16 of 39
hard 6b+14 of 39
6b+5 of 39
easy 6b+1 of 39
hard 6b0 of 39
6b0 of 39
easy 6b0 of 39
3 Stars0 of 32
2 Stars24 of 32
1 Star6 of 32
0 Stars1 of 32
Bag of .....1 of 32
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Style of ascent

Lead129 of 145 (89.0%)
Followed6 of 145 (4.1%)
Toproped4 of 145 (2.8%)
Unknown6 of 145 (4.1%)

'Climbed'24 of 145 (16.6%)
clean O/S34 of 145 (23.4%)
clean β13 of 145 (9.0%)
clean rpt13 of 145 (9.0%)
clean RP32 of 145 (22.1%)
dogged23 of 145 (15.9%)
dnf6 of 145 (4.1%)