UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
11m.

Rockfax Description
Move up the lower wall to the good break. The flared groove above and exit via a small notch are the crux. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb up to the break and enter the white scoop above with some difficulty. Leave it with some more difficulty to finish at a lower-off in a tiny groove.

Matt Ward, Gordon A Jenkin, Martin J Crocker 16/Jul/1988.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6Bs with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
ulbau 3 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: As others mentioned, be cautious with falls from the last bolt, as you can injure yourself if you hit the break lower down!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As others mentioned, be cautious with falls from the last bolt, as you can injure yourself if you hit the break lower down!

Logged Ascents

151 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heady Days

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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