UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
11m.

Rockfax Description
A burly move to pass the overhang and a tricky second clip are the major challenges on this line. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Finish at SoFB lower-off.

Matt Ward, Rob Kingston 06/Jul/1988.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #Levelup expansion pack , 7As with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
ethanr2000 28 Feb, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 3rd bolt not nearly as dodgy as expected. Big ledge makes it safe to clip
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3rd bolt not nearly as dodgy as expected. Big ledge makes it safe to clip
dougcope 28 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There is a good foot on the left that allows you to get a knee bar in under the roof that makes the second clip a lot easier. No way I could have sent this without it!
Show beta
βeta: There is a good foot on the left that allows you to get a knee bar in under the roof that makes the second clip a lot easier. No way I could have sent this without it!

Logged Ascents

92 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Paladin + In the Hands of the Deceiver

Grade: 7a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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