Climb the front of the buttress left of Shagrat past a peg runner to a good pocket (large cam). Swing left (weak thread, and peg above) and continue up past an undercut/layaway block to an easier finish through the roofs.

The guide describes the first roof as the crux, and the first peg is a recent addition.

grp 05/Feb Lead dog

fell towards the top onto the higher peg then continued to the top. my second then had the peg slide out as he was taking the draw out.

Dan0Me 04/Jul/14 TR
with Geoff P
RichyBOYY 04/Mar/14 TR O/S
Tim M 01/Apr/12 Lead dog

Climbed this several times over the years, starting to the right of the first peg (to avoid the true start) makes an excellent steep E3 5c **. Although the guide says something about not much gear, you can pretty much lace it up. Today however I dogged it!

with Emma
climbergg 01/Apr/12 2nd
adam cooper*super* 18/Aug/10 2nd O/S

really good, still stick to E4 though

Jack_F 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant route got death pump at the top and thought it was game over. thank god for a lucky ass foothold i managed to stick!

T ny ??/2010 -
Paul Robertson 08/Jun/08 2nd rpt

Avoided the first roof by climbing up just right of the peg.

guy xavier percival 08/Jun/08 Lead RP
with paul
Paul Robertson 22/Jun/06 Lead dog

Strength and confidence ebbed away below the (easy) top roof

with Ben Friedland
Billg 15/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Harry
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set