brilliant climbing very exposed midway section under a roof finished off on soloing arete des cosmics
hoppojoe7 - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with stuart honick
steve_gibbs - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/14 with Al Docherty
Led pitch 4. Took the arete variant at the top which quickly turned into a frenzy of french-freeing. Abbed the route due to maintenance work at the top. Be careful not to get your ropes stuck!
alexm198 - AltLd O/S - Sep/14 with Matt Harle, James Thompson
Fantastic route, really pleased to lead the S-Crack cleanly in good style. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/rbuffat-route-aiguille-du-midi/
alastairbegley - AltLd - 14/Aug/14 with Richard Nicholson
My intro to aid climbing... lol
Slick - AltLd - 14/Aug/14 with Alastair Begley
darcan - AltLd - 05/Aug/14
Amazing route - a classic of Chamonix.
Karl Wooffindin - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/14 with Ollie Hemstock
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/14
Hidden - Lead - 18/Jul/14
Gumery - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Grant
mike mo - 2014
Hidden - 2014
bandersnatch - AltLd - 06/Sep/13
Hidden - AltLd dog - 05/Sep/13
Hidden - Lead - 03/Sep/13
Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/13
fantastic, puffing through the roof with the altitude
simondunf - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/13 with caspar
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13
abseiled in after doing the other route on the face. Nice roof pitch.
HansStuttgart - Sep/13
guy757 - 24/Aug/13 with Vic
Had a wonderful day on this, quite a busy route. Friendly Norwegians behind us and one grumpy Frenchman who said he was going to late for an appointment, which rather begs the question what on earth was he doing going climbing on the Midi beforehand? Anyway, he turned out to be slower than us. Both freed the crux, which wasn't too bad, but quite physical. Went a bit off route higher up on the IV+ pitch, which made it feel a little harder, maybe V. Anyway, brilliant memorable day out, although trip was later cut short that evening.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/13 with Billy
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/13
robgixer - Lead O/S - Aug/13
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/13
Fantastic route, we finished up the Cosmiques arÍte. Both did the roof clean, which was hard carrying big boots in the sacks, probably f5c/6a. Finished up the left hand variant which was v/v+. Worth TD- done free.
No bolts on the route.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Henry Haworth
Hidden - 11/Jul/13
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/13
Tobias at Home - 2013
walts4 - 2013
jcw - 2013
James Thacker - 2013
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/Sep/12
Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/12
We linked this with the Cosmique aret made this a awsome day out. Although I had to pull on the peg in the roof, due to heavy packs with Boots/axes/crampons ect...
alpinestar_no1 - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/12 with Stefan Jacobsen
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/12
ashtond6 - AltLd - 22/Jul/12
jimmatthews - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Jay Conlon
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Alex Tibbs
A straightforward climb until the roof which was quite hard.
abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Harry Bloxham
LucyG - 2nd - Jul/12 with Seth
hilty - AltLd O/S - Jul/12 with Adam coles
Mike Hood - AltLd - 29/Jun/12
Climbed with all our gear, and ended up abing down at the 8th pitch! Lead all pitches up til there. Lost my phone, dropped a climbing shoe, the rope was too short for the absails, took a big fall on the 5th pitch and just about made it to the last lift after sprinting back up to the midi! Epic day! Very exposed and sustained climbing, with the grades felling a lot harder than stated in the guidebook. Awesome route.
mcgovern - Lead - Jun/12 with K-Man
Hidden - 2nd dog - Jun/12
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11
Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/11
Went off route and ended up climbing a direct crack line. VI ish maybe. Awesome route though
geoff.comley - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Dan Carrol
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/11
Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Will A
guy757 - 16/Jul/11
First did cherrie then this route. Free the roof at about english 5A - HVS
Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Nick
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11
Amazing route! First pitch was very iced up so Matt hand jammed through the steep section with gloves on. I led the 6a slab pitch under the roof and Matt led the curving crack. Abbed off after 4 pitches as the remaining pitches looked icy.
sam820 - AltLd dnf - Jul/11 with Matt Keyse
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11
Hidden - Jun/11
wi11 - 2nd β - 27/May/11 with Dan gibson
supos - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Lars Fjendbo
No bolts on the climb, when we did it. They must have been removed (for good reason)
Nice afternoon climb with no people on the face. Back to the hut for beers in good time.
astrange - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Hans Bräuner-Osborne
Free onsight in late afternoon, long descent via the Cosmiques Couloir.
sarpedon - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with dougie swanson-low
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with sarp
Hidden - 2011
John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/10 with Neil Mackay
markv21 - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10
PeteH - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Dave Leonard
Narrow weather window - cloudy all day, snow started during final pitch.
DaveLeonard - 2nd - 14/Aug/10 with PeteH
Pete23 - 2nd - Aug/10
yellow - AltLd - Aug/10
carl_123 - AltLd O/S - Aug/10
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10
Awesome fun. Roof pitch was a bit of VS then some hauling. Following 2 pitches possibly HS. Didn't fancy abbing with the lectricity wires below! Bit of a scary descent off the Cosmiques after the abseils, which was buzzing with electricity. Had to bivvy in the Midi after missing the last lift by 5 mins.
Cardi - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Pete Hill
VS??? Roof felt a lot harder than that! Excellent gear and climbing throughout, wires did not present and problems on abseil. Didn't see any bolts either...
liamo333 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10
Alexandre Buisse - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10
Hidden - 2010
liz j - Sep/09 with Matt Dickinson
inuklm - 23/Aug/09 with Dave Gent
davidgent - 22/Aug/09 with Kunal
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/09
JDSwain - 13/Aug/09 with Tom Ripley
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/09
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 07/Aug/09
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Jon Hauser
Hauled our very heavy sack on the crux.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with CarolineH
4h up and down after bailing on the grand cap. brilliant climbing
lukehunt - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/09 with Hamish Dunn
finished via the contamine route to the top of the piton sud
Ollie B - 12/Jul/09 with J.Monypenny
Em66 - 12/Jul/09 with Jack uni
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/09
last pitch or two fairly wintry, finished left up gully and line of bolts
Phil Jennings - AltLd RP - 12/Jul/09 with Tom Nichols
MoWalker3 - AltLd - 07/Jul/09 with Quiet Ian
Diggler - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/09 with Andy Clow
HamishD - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with James Callendar
Neil D - AltLd rpt - Jul/09 with Phil Leadbeater
i'd say the grades were more like 5c, 6a+, 5c, 5c+, 6a+, 4b, 4c/A0.
well worth it though
Tobias at Home - 17/Jun/09
Tobias at Home - 04/Jun/09 with featuresforfeet
featuresforfeet - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/09 with Tobias at Home
Fantastic climbing on wonderfully clean granite. Lead the S crack. Got a bit lost at the top. Had the whole face to ourselves as it had been raining for 2 days. Started after luch allowing sufficient time to dry. One of the best days climing i'e ever had.
felixthelion - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with polly harmer
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Jay Jackson
Guy Wilson - Aug/08 with Byron Buck
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08
The S-Crack will stay in my memory for a long, long time to come!
Byronius Maximus - AltLd - Aug/08 with Guy Wilson
Took a rather tough finish direct to the final pillar up a crack system, felt much harder than anything else though lack of guide book means we don't know what it was...
farmus21 - AltLd - Aug/08 with Nick Stephens
nickstephens - AltLd - Aug/08 with James Gray
Great route on beautiful rock. Aided over the roof. Climbed in warm sun and found it hard to believe a guided party following who said we needed to rush to beat the incoming weather. Realised guides generally know their weather when we were engulfed by a violent hailstorm while abbing down!
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/08 with Rob
Julie Carroll - AltLd dog - 30/Jul/08 with Rhiannan
HIGHTOWER - AltLd - 25/Jul/08 with Tim
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/08
Awesome route, done in 7 pitches - any thoughts of freeing the aid part soon evaporated due to carrying heavy sacks, been knackered after an horrendous bivy on the vallee blanche and the 3500m altitude!
markfairbank - AltLd - 01/Jul/08 with SteveyM
Fantastic route. First line not correct and made more lengthly and difficult. The crux is fun.
SteveMyatt - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/08 with Mark Fairbank
The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Lee Bonner
+ James Waldron
Only first three pitches
Neil D - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with Jonny Phillips
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/08
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Jim D
Dave Searle - Lead - 23/Jun/08 with john
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/08
nickdonohue - May/08 with Olivier ?
AndrewJenkins - 2008
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07
Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/07
Hidden - Lead - Jul/07
Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jul/07
tommytuffa - AltLd - Jul/07 with FChris Fisher
Brian Birtle - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/06 with Emma Jack
Nicos - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/06 with rich howels
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/06
Alternate special beginning (6a?) followed by "normal" second pitch which is COMPLETELY sandbagged (6b?). The Alex gets a nasty broken blister on his heel and wants to bail after the beautiful 6a crack pitch. Will I ever finish this climb?
Brian Birtle - AltLd dnf - 17/Jul/06 with Swedish Alex
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/06 with Josh Bakker-Dyos
mattyork2 - AltLd β - 16/Jul/06 with Josh Bakker-Dyos
Will_he_fall - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with ali
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06
This is the rebuffat not on the sud pilier south face but on the eperon...fyi. very nice- start at the bottom is different from topo as the snowline is really different from photo- we started far to the left as did most others but the rock is extremely loose and delicate here for the first 10 or 15 metres so take care as there is little to no gear, despite the easy grade at the start. Roof section still equipped with pitons and some tat.
heidimountaingirl - Jul/06 with Yoshiko Miyazaki
Very nice third pitch. I needed a little bit of aid on the second pitch - I would have guessed 6b or harder to free those couple of moves.
Kyuzo - AltLd O/S - Jul/06
andy jennings - 2nd dnf - Jul/06
dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Will Barbour
Led the second curving crack pitch, stunning.
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Jamie Tattersall
With UCPA group. Pulled on a peg or two on the overhang. Led last pitch.
Misha - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with UCPA
gripped01 - AltLd - Jul/06 with Dave Tait
Logbook dateline: "Getting our ass kicked by Rebuffet". Got past the 6a crux and bailed at the next 5+ pitch due to falling hail, followed by stuck absail ropes and a run up the arete to ~barely~ make the last Midi down...
Brian Birtle - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/06 with Kirk
hal - AltLd - Jun/06 with Virgil Scott
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Andy Inglis
zero six - AltLd O/S - 2006
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05
Hidden - 22/Jun/05
clams - AltLd - 2005 with Liam
datoon - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/03 with JH
josephwilliams - Aug/03
ian bryant - AltLd O/S - Aug/02 with rod
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/02
Jim Walton - AltLd - 09/Aug/99 with Matthew Stammers
Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/99
Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/98 with Ed Cartwright
with David van Ee
michaelja - AltLd O/S - Jul/98
Acclimatisation for the Matterhorn.
Bilbo - 2nd - 04/Aug/97 with Steve
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1997
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1997
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/94
NeilGriffiths - Aug/94 with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon
Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jul/92
frost - AltLd - Jul/91 with Stone
Hidden - AltLd - 1991
jasper11 - 1990
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/89
Hidden - Jul/89
Wonderful route. lead the whole thing with sack containing our plastic boots, couple of axes, crampons etc. Weighed about 20+lbs was absolutely battered by the top.
Guy - Lead O/S - Aug/88 with The old man
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/86
Lone Rider - AltLd - 1986
John Marsland - Aug/83 with Tony Rex
Richard Weller - Aug/83 with Paul Mavin
John Marsland - 1981 with Dave Mould and Tony Rex
Hidden - Aug/80