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Voie Rébuffat (South Face)*** D+

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The most popular route on the Eperon des Cosmiques. Pitches: 3, 4+/5, A0 or 5+/6a (roof - free at 5-?), 4, 4+, 4+. Recently partially bolted by the Chamonix guides (!).
Gaston Rebuffat / Bernard Pierre 13/Aug/1956

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 136 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/12

We linked this with the Cosmique aret made this a awsome day out. Although I had to pull on the peg in the roof, due to heavy packs with Boots/axes/crampons ect...
alpinestar_no1 - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/12 with Stefan Jacobsen

ashtond6 - AltLd - 22/Jul/12

HarryB - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Alex Tibbs

A straightforward climb until the roof which was quite hard.
abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Harry Bloxham

LucyG - 2nd - Jul/12 with Seth

Mike Hood - AltLd - 29/Jun/12

Climbed with all our gear, and ended up abing down at the 8th pitch! Lead all pitches up til there. Lost my phone, dropped a climbing shoe, the rope was too short for the absails, took a big fall on the 5th pitch and just about made it to the last lift after sprinting back up to the midi! Epic day! Very exposed and sustained climbing, with the grades felling a lot harder than stated in the guidebook. Awesome route.
mcgovern - Lead - Jun/12 with K-Man

CJEFF - 2nd dog - Jun/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/11

Went off route and ended up climbing a direct crack line. VI ish maybe. Awesome route though
geoff.comley - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Dan Carrol

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/11

Super hot sunny day, lead the lot
Bradders - Lead - 02/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11

Clay C - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Will A

guy757 - 16/Jul/11

First did cherrie then this route. Free the roof at about english 5A - HVS
Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11

Amazing route! First pitch was very iced up so Matt hand jammed through the steep section with gloves on. I led the 6a slab pitch under the roof and Matt led the curving crack. Abbed off after 4 pitches as the remaining pitches looked icy.
sam820 - AltLd dnf - Jul/11 with Matt Keyse

Sari Nevala - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11 with Geoff

Petarghh - Jun/11

supos - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Lars Fjendbo

No bolts on the climb, when we did it. They must have been removed (for good reason) Nice afternoon climb with no people on the face. Back to the hut for beers in good time.
astrange - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Hans Bräuner-Osborne

Free onsight in late afternoon, long descent via the Cosmiques Couloir.
I_hang_dog - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with dougie swanson-low

dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with sarp

Hidden - 2011

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/10 with Neil Mackay

markv21 - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10

PeteH - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Dave Leonard

Narrow weather window - cloudy all day, snow started during final pitch.
DaveLeonard - 2nd - 14/Aug/10 with PeteH

Pete23 - 2nd - Aug/10

yellow - AltLd - Aug/10

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - Aug/10

Block leads - two each. I started. Had to aid the roof pitch, but there was an etrier already hanging so it was easy. Abbed off.
Caspar - AltLd - 13/Jul/10 with Ross Davidson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10

Awesome fun. Roof pitch was a bit of VS then some hauling. Following 2 pitches possibly HS. Didn't fancy abbing with the lectricity wires below! Bit of a scary descent off the Cosmiques after the abseils, which was buzzing with electricity. Had to bivvy in the Midi after missing the last lift by 5 mins.
Cardi - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Pete Hill

VS??? Roof felt a lot harder than that! Excellent gear and climbing throughout, wires did not present and problems on abseil. Didn't see any bolts either...
liamo333 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Alexandre Buisse - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Sep/09

inuklm - 23/Aug/09 with Dave Gent

davidgent - 22/Aug/09 with Kunal

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/09

Swain16 - 13/Aug/09 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 07/Aug/09

Free
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Jon Hauser

Hauled our very heavy sack on the crux.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with CarolineH

4h up and down after bailing on the grand cap. brilliant climbing
lukehunt - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/09 with Hamish Dunn

finished via the contamine route to the top of the piton sud
Ollie B - 12/Jul/09 with J.Monypenny

Em66 - 12/Jul/09 with Jack uni

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/09

last pitch or two fairly wintry, finished left up gully and line of bolts
Phil Jennings - AltLd RP - 12/Jul/09 with Tom Nichols

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 07/Jul/09 with Quiet Ian

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/09 with Andy Clow

HamishD - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with James Callendar

Neil D - AltLd rpt - Jul/09 with Phil Leadbeater

i'd say the grades were more like 5c, 6a+, 5c, 5c+, 6a+, 4b, 4c/A0. well worth it though
Tobias at Home - 17/Jun/09

Tobias at Home - 04/Jun/09 with featuresforfeet

featuresforfeet - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/09 with Tobias at Home

Fantastic climbing on wonderfully clean granite. Lead the S crack. Got a bit lost at the top. Had the whole face to ourselves as it had been raining for 2 days. Started after luch allowing sufficient time to dry. One of the best days climing i'e ever had.
felixthelion - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with polly harmer

JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Jay Jackson

Guy Wilson - Aug/08 with Byron Buck

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

The S-Crack will stay in my memory for a long, long time to come!
Byronius Maximus - AltLd - Aug/08 with Guy Wilson

Amazing, truly Took a rather tough finish direct to the final pillar up a crack system, felt much harder than anything else though lack of guide book means we don't know what it was...
farmus21 - AltLd - Aug/08 with Nick Stephens

nickstephens - AltLd - Aug/08 with James Gray

Great route on beautiful rock. Aided over the roof. Climbed in warm sun and found it hard to believe a guided party following who said we needed to rush to beat the incoming weather. Realised guides generally know their weather when we were engulfed by a violent hailstorm while abbing down!
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/08 with Rob

Julie Carroll - AltLd dog - 30/Jul/08 with Rhiannan

HIGHTOWER - AltLd - 25/Jul/08 with Tim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/08

Awesome route, done in 7 pitches - any thoughts of freeing the aid part soon evaporated due to carrying heavy sacks, been knackered after an horrendous bivy on the vallee blanche and the 3500m altitude!
markfairbank - AltLd - 01/Jul/08 with SteveyM

Fantastic route. First line not correct and made more lengthly and difficult. The crux is fun.
SteveMyatt - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/08 with Mark Fairbank

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Lee Bonner

+ James Waldron Only first three pitches
Neil D - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with Jonny Phillips

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/08

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Jim D

Dave Searle - Lead - 23/Jun/08 with john

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/08

AndrewJenkins - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead - Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jul/07

tommytuffa - AltLd - Jul/07 with FChris Fisher

Brian Birtle - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/06 with Emma Jack

Nicos - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/06 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/06

Alternate special beginning (6a?) followed by "normal" second pitch which is COMPLETELY sandbagged (6b?). The Alex gets a nasty broken blister on his heel and wants to bail after the beautiful 6a crack pitch. Will I ever finish this climb?
Brian Birtle - AltLd dnf - 17/Jul/06 with Swedish Alex

mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/06 with Josh Bakker-Dyos

mattyork2 - AltLd β - 16/Jul/06 with Josh Bakker-Dyos

Will_he_fall - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with ali

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06

This is the rebuffat not on the sud pilier south face but on the eperon...fyi. very nice- start at the bottom is different from topo as the snowline is really different from photo- we started far to the left as did most others but the rock is extremely loose and delicate here for the first 10 or 15 metres so take care as there is little to no gear, despite the easy grade at the start. Roof section still equipped with pitons and some tat.
heidimountaingirl - Jul/06 with Yoshiko Miyazaki

Very nice third pitch. I needed a little bit of aid on the second pitch - I would have guessed 6b or harder to free those couple of moves.
Kyuzo - AltLd O/S - Jul/06

andy jennings - 2nd dnf - Jul/06

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Will Barbour

Led the second curving crack pitch, stunning.
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Jamie Tattersall

With UCPA group. Pulled on a peg or two on the overhang. Led last pitch.
Misha - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with UCPA

gripped01 - AltLd - Jul/06 with Dave Tait

Logbook dateline: "Getting our ass kicked by Rebuffet". Got past the 6a crux and bailed at the next 5+ pitch due to falling hail, followed by stuck absail ropes and a run up the arete to ~barely~ make the last Midi down...
Brian Birtle - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/06 with Kirk

hal - AltLd - Jun/06 with Virgil Scott

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Andy Inglis

zero six - AltLd O/S - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

Hidden - 22/Jun/05

datoon - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/03 with JH

josephwilliams - Aug/03

ian bryant - AltLd O/S - Aug/02 with rod

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/02

Jim Walton - AltLd - 09/Aug/99 with Matthew Stammers

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/99

Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/98 with Ed Cartwright

with David van Ee
michaelja - AltLd O/S - Jul/98

Acclimatisation for the Matterhorn.
Bilbo - 2nd - 04/Aug/97 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1997

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/94

NeilGriffiths - Aug/94 with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jul/92

frost - AltLd - Jul/91 with Stone

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/89

Hidden - Jul/89

Wonderful route. lead the whole thing with sack containing our plastic boots, couple of axes, crampons etc. Weighed about 20+lbs was absolutely battered by the top.
Guy - Lead O/S - Aug/88 with The old man

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/86

John Marsland - Aug/83 with Tony Rex

Approx month
Richard Weller - Aug/83 with Paul Mavin

John Marsland - 1981 with Dave Mould and Tony Rex

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jezb1, Julesthe1st, Ross.Cooper, adamwesthead, Hidden, Steve33, Hidden, alexanderjwatts, Hidden, andrew(willy)wilson, Nick Smith - UKC, Hidden, arkaitz, robdan, Hidden, vincentvega, shane54, John Carney, Tadams, Hidden, tdudley, Different Steve, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, andymoin, Hidden, beegsyboy, climber130887, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Brian Birtle, petellis

Voting
Total votes cast 26
hard TD-0 of 1
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easy TD-1 of 1
hard D+0 of 1
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easy D+0 of 1
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easy D0 of 1
3 Stars23 of 25
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Style of ascent

Lead18 of 136 (13.2%)
Followed8 of 136 (5.9%)
Alt Leads87 of 136 (64.0%)
Unknown23 of 136 (16.9%)

'Climbed'54 of 136 (39.7%)
clean O/S69 of 136 (50.7%)
clean β1 of 136 (0.7%)
clean rpt2 of 136 (1.5%)
clean RP1 of 136 (0.7%)
dogged3 of 136 (2.2%)
dnf6 of 136 (4.4%)