Voie Rébuffat (South Face)*** D+
[Freeing the crux, 2 kb]The most popular route on the Eperon des Cosmiques. Pitches: 3, 4+/5, A0 or 5+/6a (roof - free at 5-?), 4, 4+, 4+. Recently partially bolted by the Chamonix guides (!).
Gaston Rebuffat / Bernard Pierre 13/Aug/1956

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Photo: Freeing the crux © Tom Last
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 201 logbooks, and on 58 wishlists.

nice route, normal start threatened by rock fall. took 5b direct start
joelevanschamonix - AltLd - 30/Aug/15 with Tom Grant

Great route! Led P2 etc. Did the 6a move clean, but we had left big boots etc at the bottom.
EllieWoods - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/15 with pete belfield

alooker - AltLd - Aug/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/15

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/15 with Jesse Mason

French free over the roof, felt vervain hard with big bags! Great introduction to Chamonix mountain rock and such a great day for it!
squicky - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/15

aerobiee - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/15 with Jen Stretton

Jenn_Stretton - 2nd - 12/Jul/15 with David Thexton

With bags. P1,2 & 5. Crux went free & was fantastic. Great climbing right through. Finished out cosmiques arête on a blue sky sunny day. Doesn't get much better.
davkeo - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/15 with Cearbhall Daly

Climbed with packs to finish up the Arete. DK led the crux free. Took the A0 option.
cearbhalld - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/15 with Dave Keogh

Brilliant took a nit of time faffing and just made the last lift down
Wendy Watthews - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/15 with Luke, joe c

Led the crux pitch. Loved every minute of it
lukegorman - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/15 with Wendy Matthews, Joe Coxson

Left bags at the bottom and abseiled down from the last of the face climbing. I took the pitch before the roof and the 4c pitch up a big chunk of the face. Brilliant position, would have been nice to finish off along the ridge, but it was better to climb without bags.
JoeCoxson - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/15 with Luke Gorman, Wendy Matthews

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/15

Climbed the aid pitch free
Richard Kendrick - AltLd O/S - Jun/15 with Tim Johnston

joelevanschamonix - 2015

brilliant climbing very exposed midway section under a roof finished off on soloing arete des cosmics
hoppojoe7 - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with stuart honick

steve_gibbs - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/14 with Al Docherty

Fantastic route, really pleased to lead the S-Crack cleanly in good style. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/rbuffat-route-aiguille-du-midi/
alastairbegley - AltLd - 14/Aug/14 with Richard Nicholson

My intro to aid climbing... lol
Slick - AltLd - 14/Aug/14 with Alastair Begley

darcan - AltLd - 05/Aug/14

Amazing route - a classic of Chamonix.
Karl Wooffindin - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/14 with Ollie Hemstock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jul/14

Fluffed leading the crux clean. Great climbing that goes on and one. Finished up the cosmiques arete
DigitalSteak - AltLd - 06/Jul/14

Gumery - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Grant

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd dog - 05/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 03/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/13

fantastic, puffing through the roof with the altitude
simondunf - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/13 with caspar

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13

abseiled in after doing the other route on the face. Nice roof pitch.
HansStuttgart - Sep/13

guy757 - 24/Aug/13 with Vic

Had a wonderful day on this, quite a busy route. Friendly Norwegians behind us and one grumpy Frenchman who said he was going to late for an appointment, which rather begs the question what on earth was he doing going climbing on the Midi beforehand? Anyway, he turned out to be slower than us. Both freed the crux, which wasn't too bad, but quite physical. Went a bit off route higher up on the IV+ pitch, which made it feel a little harder, maybe V. Anyway, brilliant memorable day out, although trip was later cut short that evening.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/13 with Billy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/13

robgixer - Lead O/S - Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/13

Fantastic route, we finished up the Cosmiques arête. Both did the roof clean, which was hard carrying big boots in the sacks, probably f5c/6a. Finished up the left hand variant which was v/v+. Worth TD- done free. No bolts on the route.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Henry Haworth

Hidden - 11/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/13

Tobias at Home - 2013

walts4 - 2013

jcw - 2013

James Thacker - 2013

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/12

We linked this with the Cosmique aret made this a awsome day out. Although I had to pull on the peg in the roof, due to heavy packs with Boots/axes/crampons ect...
alpinestar_no1 - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/12 with Stefan Jacobsen

Sir Stefan - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/12 with Morten Johansen

ashtond6 - AltLd - 22/Jul/12

jimmatthews - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Jay Conlon

HarryB - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Alex Tibbs

A straightforward climb until the roof which was quite hard.
abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Harry Bloxham

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/12

hilty - AltLd O/S - Jul/12 with Adam coles

Mike Hood - AltLd - 29/Jun/12

Climbed with all our gear, and ended up abing down at the 8th pitch! Lead all pitches up til there. Lost my phone, dropped a climbing shoe, the rope was too short for the absails, took a big fall on the 5th pitch and just about made it to the last lift after sprinting back up to the midi! Epic day! Very exposed and sustained climbing, with the grades felling a lot harder than stated in the guidebook. Awesome route.
mcgovern - Lead - Jun/12 with K-Man

Hidden - 2nd dog - Jun/12

QuentinSu - Jun/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/11

Went off route and ended up climbing a direct crack line. VI ish maybe. Awesome route though
geoff.comley - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Dan Carrol

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11

Clay C - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Will A

guy757 - 16/Jul/11

First did cherrie then this route. Free the roof at about english 5A - HVS
Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11

Amazing route! First pitch was very iced up so Matt hand jammed through the steep section with gloves on. I led the 6a slab pitch under the roof and Matt led the curving crack. Abbed off after 4 pitches as the remaining pitches looked icy.
sam820 - AltLd dnf - Jul/11 with Matt Keyse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11

Petarghh - Jun/11

wi11 - 2nd β - 27/May/11 with Dan gibson

supos - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Lars Fjendbo

No bolts on the climb, when we did it. They must have been removed (for good reason) Nice afternoon climb with no people on the face. Back to the hut for beers in good time.
astrange - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Hans Bräuner-Osborne

Free onsight in late afternoon, long descent via the Cosmiques Couloir.
sarpedon - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with dougie swanson-low

dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with sarp

Hidden - 2011

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/10 with Neil Mackay

markv21 - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10

PeteH - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Dave Leonard

Narrow weather window - cloudy all day, snow started during final pitch.
DaveLeonard - 2nd - 14/Aug/10 with PeteH

Pete23 - 2nd - Aug/10

yellow - AltLd - Aug/10

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10

Awesome fun. Roof pitch was a bit of VS then some hauling. Following 2 pitches possibly HS. Didn't fancy abbing with the lectricity wires below! Bit of a scary descent off the Cosmiques after the abseils, which was buzzing with electricity. Had to bivvy in the Midi after missing the last lift by 5 mins.
Cardi - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Pete Hill

VS??? Roof felt a lot harder than that! Excellent gear and climbing throughout, wires did not present and problems on abseil. Didn't see any bolts either...
liamo333 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Alexandre Buisse - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

liz j - Sep/09 with Matt Dickinson

inuklm - 23/Aug/09 with Dave Gent

davidgent - 22/Aug/09 with Kunal

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/09

JDSwain - 13/Aug/09 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 07/Aug/09

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Jon Hauser

Hauled our very heavy sack on the crux.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with CarolineH

4h up and down after bailing on the grand cap. brilliant climbing
lukehunt - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/09 with Hamish Dunn

finished via the contamine route to the top of the piton sud
Ollie B - 12/Jul/09 with J.Monypenny

Em66 - 12/Jul/09 with Jack uni

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/09

last pitch or two fairly wintry, finished left up gully and line of bolts
Phil Jennings - AltLd RP - 12/Jul/09 with Tom Nichols

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 07/Jul/09 with Quiet Ian

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/09 with Andy Clow

HamishD - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with James Callendar

Neil D - AltLd rpt - Jul/09 with Phil Leadbeater

i'd say the grades were more like 5c, 6a+, 5c, 5c+, 6a+, 4b, 4c/A0. well worth it though
Tobias at Home - 17/Jun/09

Tobias at Home - 04/Jun/09 with featuresforfeet

featuresforfeet - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/09 with Tobias at Home

Fantastic climbing on wonderfully clean granite. Lead the S crack. Got a bit lost at the top. Had the whole face to ourselves as it had been raining for 2 days. Started after luch allowing sufficient time to dry. One of the best days climing i'e ever had.
felixthelion - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with polly harmer

JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Jay Jackson

Guy Wilson - Aug/08 with Byron Buck

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

The S-Crack will stay in my memory for a long, long time to come!
Byronius Maximus - AltLd - Aug/08 with Guy Wilson

Amazing, truly Took a rather tough finish direct to the final pillar up a crack system, felt much harder than anything else though lack of guide book means we don't know what it was...
farmus21 - AltLd - Aug/08 with Nick Stephens

nickstephens - AltLd - Aug/08 with James Gray

Great route on beautiful rock. Aided over the roof. Climbed in warm sun and found it hard to believe a guided party following who said we needed to rush to beat the incoming weather. Realised guides generally know their weather when we were engulfed by a violent hailstorm while abbing down!
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/08 with Rob

Julie Carroll - AltLd dog - 30/Jul/08 with Rhiannan

HIGHTOWER - AltLd - 25/Jul/08 with Tim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/08

Awesome route, done in 7 pitches - any thoughts of freeing the aid part soon evaporated due to carrying heavy sacks, been knackered after an horrendous bivy on the vallee blanche and the 3500m altitude!
markfairbank - AltLd - 01/Jul/08 with SteveyM

Fantastic route. First line not correct and made more lengthly and difficult. The crux is fun.
SteveMyatt - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/08 with Mark Fairbank

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Lee Bonner

+ James Waldron Only first three pitches
Neil D - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with Jonny Phillips

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/08

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Jim D

Dave Searle - Lead - 23/Jun/08 with john

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/08

nickdonohue - May/08 with Olivier ?

AndrewJenkins - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead - Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jul/07

tommytuffa - AltLd - Jul/07 with FChris Fisher

Brian Birtle - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/06 with Emma Jack

Nicos - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/06 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/06

Alternate special beginning (6a?) followed by "normal" second pitch which is COMPLETELY sandbagged (6b?). The Alex gets a nasty broken blister on his heel and wants to bail after the beautiful 6a crack pitch. Will I ever finish this climb?
Brian Birtle - AltLd dnf - 17/Jul/06 with Swedish Alex

mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/06 with Josh Bakker-Dyos

mattyork2 - AltLd β - 16/Jul/06 with Josh Bakker-Dyos

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06

This is the rebuffat not on the sud pilier south face but on the eperon...fyi. very nice- start at the bottom is different from topo as the snowline is really different from photo- we started far to the left as did most others but the rock is extremely loose and delicate here for the first 10 or 15 metres so take care as there is little to no gear, despite the easy grade at the start. Roof section still equipped with pitons and some tat.
heidimountaingirl - Jul/06 with Yoshiko Miyazaki

Very nice third pitch. I needed a little bit of aid on the second pitch - I would have guessed 6b or harder to free those couple of moves.
Kyuzo - AltLd O/S - Jul/06

andy jennings - 2nd dnf - Jul/06

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Will Barbour

Led the second curving crack pitch, stunning.
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Jamie Tattersall

With UCPA group. Pulled on a peg or two on the overhang. Led last pitch.
Misha - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with UCPA

gripped01 - AltLd - Jul/06 with Dave Tait

Logbook dateline: "Getting our ass kicked by Rebuffet". Got past the 6a crux and bailed at the next 5+ pitch due to falling hail, followed by stuck absail ropes and a run up the arete to ~barely~ make the last Midi down...
Brian Birtle - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/06 with Kirk

hal - AltLd - Jun/06 with Virgil Scott

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Andy Inglis

zero six - AltLd O/S - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

Hidden - 22/Jun/05

clams - AltLd - 2005 with Liam

datoon - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/03 with JH

josephwilliams - Aug/03

ian bryant - AltLd O/S - Aug/02 with rod

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/02

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/99

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/99

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/98

with David van Ee
michaelja - AltLd O/S - Jul/98

Acclimatisation for the Matterhorn.
Bilbo - 2nd - 04/Aug/97 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1997

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1997

NickJH - Lead dnf - Jul/96 with LiamG

Hidden - 16/Feb/95

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/94

NeilGriffiths - Aug/94 with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/94

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jul/92

frost - AltLd - Jul/91 with Stone

Hidden - AltLd - 1991

Robmwatt - 1990

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/89

Hidden - Jul/89

Wonderful route. lead the whole thing with sack containing our plastic boots, couple of axes, crampons etc. Weighed about 20+lbs was absolutely battered by the top.
Guy - Lead O/S - Aug/88 with The old man

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/86

Lone Rider - AltLd - 1986

John Marsland - Aug/83 with Tony Rex

Approx month
Richard Weller - Aug/83 with Paul Mavin

John Marsland - 1981 with Dave Mould and Tony Rex

Hidden - Aug/80

Steve Bell - 1977

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Total votes cast 48
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