The most popular route on the Eperon des Cosmiques. Pitches: 3, 4+/5, A0 or 5+/6a (roof - free at 5-?), 4, 4+, 4+. Recently partially bolted by the Chamonix guides (!).

Gaston Rebuffat / Bernard Pierre 13/Aug/1956

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

joelevanschamonix 30/Aug AltLd

nice route, normal start threatened by rock fall. took 5b direct start

with Tom Grant
EllieWoods 05/Aug AltLd O/S

Great route! Led P2 etc. Did the 6a move clean, but we had left big boots etc at the bottom.

with pete belfield
alooker ?/Aug AltLd
Hidden 31/Jul Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 31/Jul AltLd O/S

Made the correct decision to avoid the initial gully. I went off route on the 2nd pitch and left Adam with a worrying traverse cross suspect flakes (fair play!) and the crux move. Finished off barging through on the cosmique.

with Adam
Sam Simpson 14/Jul AltLd O/S
with Jesse Mason
squicky 13/Jul 2nd O/S

French free over the roof, felt vervain hard with big bags! Great introduction to Chamonix mountain rock and such a great day for it!

aerobiee 12/Jul Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 12/Jul 2nd
davkeo 25/Jun AltLd O/S

With bags. P1,2 & 5. Crux went free & was fantastic. Great climbing right through. Finished out cosmiques arête on a blue sky sunny day. Doesn't get much better.

cearbhalld 25/Jun AltLd O/S

Climbed with packs to finish up the Arete. DK led the crux free. Took the A0 option.

Wendy Watthews 05/Jun AltLd O/S

Brilliant took a nit of time faffing and just made the last lift down

with Luke, joe c
lukegorman 05/Jun AltLd O/S

Led the crux pitch. Loved every minute of it

JoeCoxson 05/Jun AltLd O/S

Left bags at the bottom and abseiled down from the last of the face climbing. I took the pitch before the roof and the 4c pitch up a big chunk of the face. Brilliant position, would have been nice to finish off along the ridge, but it was better to climb without bags.

Hidden 01/Jun AltLd O/S
Richard Kendrick ?/Jun AltLd O/S

Climbed the aid pitch free

with Tim Johnston
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
hoppojoe7 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

brilliant climbing very exposed midway section under a roof finished off on soloing arete des cosmics

steve_gibbs 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Al Docherty
alastairbegley 14/Aug/14 AltLd

Fantastic route, really pleased to lead the S-Crack cleanly in good style.

Slick 14/Aug/14 AltLd

My intro to aid climbing... lol

darcan 05/Aug/14 AltLd
Karl Wooffindin 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route - a classic of Chamonix.

with Ollie Hemstock
Hidden 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead
DigitalSteak 06/Jul/14 AltLd

Fluffed leading the crux clean. Great climbing that goes on and one. Finished up the cosmiques arete

Gumery 01/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Grant
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 06/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Sep/13 AltLd dog
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/13 AltLd
simondunf 03/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

fantastic, puffing through the roof with the altitude

with caspar
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
HansStuttgart ?/Sep/13 -

abseiled in after doing the other route on the face. Nice roof pitch.

guy757 24/Aug/13 -
with Vic
Tom Last 12/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Had a wonderful day on this, quite a busy route. Friendly Norwegians behind us and one grumpy Frenchman who said he was going to late for an appointment, which rather begs the question what on earth was he doing going climbing on the Midi beforehand? Anyway, he turned out to be slower than us. Both freed the crux, which wasn't too bad, but quite physical. Went a bit off route higher up on the IV+ pitch, which made it feel a little harder, maybe V. Anyway, brilliant memorable day out, although trip was later cut short that evening.

with Billy
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
robgixer ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/13 AltLd
Martin Haworth 25/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, we finished up the Cosmiques arête. Both did the roof clean, which was hard carrying big boots in the sacks, probably f5c/6a. Finished up the left hand variant which was v/v+. Worth TD- done free. No bolts on the route.

Hidden 11/Jul/13 -
Hidden 25/Jun/13 AltLd
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
walts4 ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
James Thacker ??/2013 -
Hidden 04/Sep/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden 27/Aug/12 Lead
alpinestar_no1 31/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

We linked this with the Cosmique aret made this a awsome day out. Although I had to pull on the peg in the roof, due to heavy packs with Boots/axes/crampons ect...

with Stefan Jacobsen
Sir Stefan 30/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
ashtond6 22/Jul/12 AltLd
jimmatthews 17/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Jay Conlon
HarryB 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
abtibbs 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

A straightforward climb until the roof which was quite hard.

Hidden ?/Jul/12 2nd
hilty ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Mike Hood 29/Jun/12 AltLd
mcgovern ?/Jun/12 Lead

Climbed with all our gear, and ended up abing down at the 8th pitch! Lead all pitches up til there. Lost my phone, dropped a climbing shoe, the rope was too short for the absails, took a big fall on the 5th pitch and just about made it to the last lift after sprinting back up to the midi! Epic day! Very exposed and sustained climbing, with the grades felling a lot harder than stated in the guidebook. Awesome route.

with K-Man
Hidden ?/Jun/12 2nd dog
QuentinSu ?/Jun/12 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 30/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/11 AltLd
geoff.comley 23/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Went off route and ended up climbing a direct crack line. VI ish maybe. Awesome route though

Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Clay C 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Will A
guy757 16/Jul/11 -
Jack Loftus 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

First did cherrie then this route. Free the roof at about english 5A - HVS

with Nick
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
sam820 ?/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

Amazing route! First pitch was very iced up so Matt hand jammed through the steep section with gloves on. I led the 6a slab pitch under the roof and Matt led the curving crack. Abbed off after 4 pitches as the remaining pitches looked icy.

with Matt Keyse
Hidden 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Petarghh ?/Jun/11 -
wi11 27/May/11 2nd β
supos 01/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Lars Fjendbo
astrange 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

No bolts on the climb, when we did it. They must have been removed (for good reason) Nice afternoon climb with no people on the face. Back to the hut for beers in good time.

with Hans Bräuner-Osborne
sarpedon 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Free onsight in late afternoon, long descent via the Cosmiques Couloir.

with dougie swanson-low
dswansonlow 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with sarp
Hidden ??/2011 -
John Pickles 23/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Neil Mackay
markv21 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
PeteH 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
DaveLeonard 14/Aug/10 2nd

Narrow weather window - cloudy all day, snow started during final pitch.

with PeteH
Pete23 ?/Aug/10 2nd
yellow ?/Aug/10 AltLd
carl_123 ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Cardi 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Awesome fun. Roof pitch was a bit of VS then some hauling. Following 2 pitches possibly HS. Didn't fancy abbing with the lectricity wires below! Bit of a scary descent off the Cosmiques after the abseils, which was buzzing with electricity. Had to bivvy in the Midi after missing the last lift by 5 mins.

liamo333 ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

VS??? Roof felt a lot harder than that! Excellent gear and climbing throughout, wires did not present and problems on abseil. Didn't see any bolts either...

Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Alexandre Buisse 18/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
liz j ?/Sep/09 -
with Matt Dickinson
inuklm 23/Aug/09 -
with Dave Gent
davidgent 22/Aug/09 -
with Kunal
Hidden 15/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
JDSwain 13/Aug/09 -
with Tom Ripley
Hidden 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
Bristoldave ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S


with Jon Hauser
Bristoldave ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Hauled our very heavy sack on the crux.

lukehunt 21/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

4h up and down after bailing on the grand cap. brilliant climbing

with Hamish Dunn
Ollie B 12/Jul/09 -

finished via the contamine route to the top of the piton sud

with J.Monypenny
Em66 12/Jul/09 -
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Phil Jennings 12/Jul/09 AltLd RP

last pitch or two fairly wintry, finished left up gully and line of bolts

with Tom Nichols
MoWalker3 07/Jul/09 AltLd
with Quiet Ian
Diggler 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Andy Clow
HamishD ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with James Callendar
Neil D ?/Jul/09 AltLd rpt
Tobias at Home 17/Jun/09 -

i'd say the grades were more like 5c, 6a+, 5c, 5c+, 6a+, 4b, 4c/A0. well worth it though

Tobias at Home 04/Jun/09 -
with featuresforfeet
featuresforfeet 04/Jun/09 2nd dog
with Tobias at Home
felixthelion ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climbing on wonderfully clean granite. Lead the S crack. Got a bit lost at the top. Had the whole face to ourselves as it had been raining for 2 days. Started after luch allowing sufficient time to dry. One of the best days climing i'e ever had.

with polly harmer
JonHarvey ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/08 -
with Byron Buck
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Byronius Maximus ?/Aug/08 AltLd

The S-Crack will stay in my memory for a long, long time to come!

farmus21 ?/Aug/08 AltLd

Amazing, truly Took a rather tough finish direct to the final pillar up a crack system, felt much harder than anything else though lack of guide book means we don't know what it was...

with Nick Stephens
nickstephens ?/Aug/08 AltLd
Andy Clarke 30/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Great route on beautiful rock. Aided over the roof. Climbed in warm sun and found it hard to believe a guided party following who said we needed to rush to beat the incoming weather. Realised guides generally know their weather when we were engulfed by a violent hailstorm while abbing down!

with Rob
Julie Carroll 30/Jul/08 AltLd dog
with Rhiannan
HIGHTOWER 25/Jul/08 AltLd
with Tim
Hidden 20/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
markfairbank 01/Jul/08 AltLd

Awesome route, done in 7 pitches - any thoughts of freeing the aid part soon evaporated due to carrying heavy sacks, been knackered after an horrendous bivy on the vallee blanche and the 3500m altitude!

with SteveyM
SteveMyatt 01/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. First line not correct and made more lengthly and difficult. The crux is fun.

with Mark Fairbank
The Bad Cough ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
Neil D ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S

+ James Waldron Only first three pitches

Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd
Rob84 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Jim D
Dave Searle 23/Jun/08 Lead
with john
Hidden 13/May/08 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/May/08 -
with Olivier ?
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
Hidden 06/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd dnf
tommytuffa ?/Jul/07 AltLd
with FChris Fisher
Brian Birtle 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Emma Jack
Nicos 01/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Brian Birtle 17/Jul/06 AltLd dnf

Alternate special beginning (6a?) followed by "normal" second pitch which is COMPLETELY sandbagged (6b?). The Alex gets a nasty broken blister on his heel and wants to bail after the beautiful 6a crack pitch. Will I ever finish this climb?

with Swedish Alex
mattyork2 17/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Josh Bakker-Dyos
mattyork2 16/Jul/06 AltLd β
with Josh Bakker-Dyos
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
heidimountaingirl ?/Jul/06 -

This is the rebuffat not on the sud pilier south face but on the very nice- start at the bottom is different from topo as the snowline is really different from photo- we started far to the left as did most others but the rock is extremely loose and delicate here for the first 10 or 15 metres so take care as there is little to no gear, despite the easy grade at the start. Roof section still equipped with pitons and some tat.

with Yoshiko Miyazaki
Kyuzo ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Very nice third pitch. I needed a little bit of aid on the second pitch - I would have guessed 6b or harder to free those couple of moves.

andy jennings ?/Jul/06 2nd dnf
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Will Barbour
tatz45 ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Led the second curving crack pitch, stunning.

Misha ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

With UCPA group. Pulled on a peg or two on the overhang. Led last pitch.

with UCPA
gripped01 ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Dave Tait
Brian Birtle 29/Jun/06 Lead dnf

Logbook dateline: "Getting our ass kicked by Rebuffet". Got past the 6a crux and bailed at the next 5+ pitch due to falling hail, followed by stuck absail ropes and a run up the arete to ~barely~ make the last Midi down...

with Kirk
hal ?/Jun/06 AltLd
with Virgil Scott
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams ??/2006 AltLd O/S
zero six ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/05 -
clams ??/2005 AltLd
with Liam
datoon 13/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with JH
josephwilliams ?/Aug/03 -
ian bryant ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with rod
Hidden 01/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/99 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun/99 AltLd
Hidden 08/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
michaelja ?/Jul/98 AltLd O/S

with David van Ee

Bilbo 04/Aug/97 2nd

Acclimatisation for the Matterhorn.

with Steve
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd O/S
NickJH ?/Jul/96 Lead dnf
with LiamG
Hidden 16/Feb/95 -
Hidden 01/Aug/94 AltLd
NeilGriffiths ?/Aug/94 -
with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jul/92 AltLd
frost ?/Jul/91 AltLd
with Stone
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Hidden ?/Aug/89 AltLd O/S
timbanton ?/Jul/89 -
Guy ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S

Wonderful route. lead the whole thing with sack containing our plastic boots, couple of axes, crampons etc. Weighed about 20+lbs was absolutely battered by the top.

with The old man
Hidden 05/Aug/86 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider ??/1986 AltLd
John Marsland ?/Aug/83 -
with Tony Rex
Richard Weller ?/Aug/83 -

Approx month

with Paul Mavin
John Marsland ??/1981 -
with Dave Mould and Tony Rex
Nevil ?/Aug/80 -
with Steve
Steve Bell ??/1977 -
uphillnow ?/Jul/73 -

Overtaken by Pete Livsey just over half way up route who was soloing

with Steve Foster, John Swift
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Remyveness, Richard Alderton, Hidden, Andre Clarke, flett53, QuentinSu, Hidden, Tony Ryland, Matthew Martin Wsm, pugilistswine, Hidden, punj, benclimbing, Retro Rowan, Hidden, stanleynkk, IanHope, Hidden, gavinpeach, Hidden, jamie ward, Adamski1986, Timothy Miller, Hidden, Hidden, jezb1, Julesthe1st, Ross.Cooper, Hidden, Hidden, Steve33, Hidden, alexanderjwatts, Hidden, Andrew will wilson, Hidden, arkaitz, robdan, Hidden, vincentvega, shane54, John Carney, Tadams, Hidden, tdudley, Different Steve, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, andymoin, Hidden, beegsyboy, climber130887, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Brian Birtle, petellis
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set