|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Good route. Acclimatisation for me, feeling it a bit but not too bad and didn't miss the lift down for a change so happy days! It snowed a fair bit the day before but we figured it would be ok as south facing and it turned out to be fine, just a bit of snow on a few of the large flat holds but the cracks were clear. Spencer led a pitch of V to the right of the gully (which looked chossy) to get to the start of the route in the Piola guide book. I then did a wandering pitch of 5+ featuring a couple of wide cracks, with the first being particularly evil. Spencer did the big corner pitch with exciting moves over the roof, again 5+. I finished with a long pitch to ledges just below the top of the eperon. This had an off width crack for first 20m or so and I actually had to do mild offwidthing for a few moves off the belay (which I was quite pleased by) before getting some face holds, after which I managed to stay out of the crack. Old skool HVS or perhaps E1. The other pitches were about HVS as well. Felt hard enough with a big rucksack! Topped out via the Cosmiques (easy scrambling towards the ridge got us to the first abseil). We pretty much moved together apart from the crux pitch, which Spencer did via the harder right hand crack to overtake people. Still took two hours from the top of the eperon. A good day out.
|Martin Haworth||20/Jul||Lead O/S||
TD. Very good. Acclimatisation route that turned out harder than expected. http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/446734/fr/aiguille-du-midi-eperon-des-cosmiques-voie-guiffra-monaci
Did the 6b+ variation (one pitch of l'affaire electra)
|Brian Birtle||23/Jun/06||Lead dog||
Did the more direct variation with L'Affaire Electra (6b+) although aided past the crux of that pitch. Super day on the mountain, one of my best ever climbs!