150m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 115m. Not climbed nearly as often as its famous neighbour, this route really deserves more attention. The climbing is more homogenous than on the Rébuffat-Pierre and the 6a crack pitch is immaculate. The route starts from the far left of the highest ledge, almost at the top of the snow slope leading to the Cosmiques Icefall.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the corner capped by an overhang. Upon reaching the overhang, cross the slab rightwards to reach right-slanting flakes above a notch. Follow these on good holds to reach a double bolt belay 5m below and left of a distinctive fin of rock which leads to the overhang.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb the crack which leads rightwards to the corner. Follow this before stepping out right onto the fin just before the overhang. From the top of the fin, a couple more metres of slabby climbing lead to a belay in a notch.
3) 6a, 20m. A shorter pitch but this is the one you want to lead! From the notch follow the blatantly obvious hand-jamming cracks which drift left to a ledge via some classic granite moves.
4) 5c, 35m. The crack continues above the ledge but is slightly more vague and the angle begins to kick back, with the climbing getting progressively easier as you go. Belay on the huge ledge at the top of the Éperon, taking care not to knock anything onto climbers below. From here, scramble up and leftwards easily to join the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitches:3, 5, 5+, 6a, 5+
Start up the gully to the left of the Eperon Face, then follow the obvious line to a big left facing corner and roof. Pull through this and climb the face and crack slightly left to the top. Sustained. Ab off or finish up the Cosmiques Arete.


ClimberDateStyle
Ollie B 11/Aug AltLd O/S
with J.Williams
Hidden 08/Aug AltLd dnf
ndraper1 05/Jul Lead O/S

Lead all pitches- all styles in one an absolute must! Bit vague route finding with all the bolts and pitons so just followed the best ground!

Sam Simpson 03/Jul AltLd O/S

Amazing route :)

Hidden 03/Jul AltLd
Misha 24/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Good route. Acclimatisation for me, feeling it a bit but not too bad and didn't miss the lift down for a change so happy days! It snowed a fair bit the day before but we figured it would be ok as south facing and it turned out to be fine, just a bit of snow on a few of the large flat holds but the cracks were clear. Spencer led a pitch of V to the right of the gully (which looked chossy) to get to the start of the route in the Piola guide book. I then did a wandering pitch of 5+ featuring a couple of wide cracks, with the first being particularly evil. Spencer did the big corner pitch with exciting moves over the roof, again 5+. I finished with a long pitch to ledges just below the top of the eperon. This had an off width crack for first 20m or so and I actually had to do mild offwidthing for a few moves off the belay (which I was quite pleased by) before getting some face holds, after which I managed to stay out of the crack. Old skool HVS or perhaps E1. The other pitches were about HVS as well. Felt hard enough with a big rucksack! Topped out via the Cosmiques (easy scrambling towards the ridge got us to the first abseil). We pretty much moved together apart from the crux pitch, which Spencer did via the harder right hand crack to overtake people. Still took two hours from the top of the eperon. A good day out.

with Spencer
Martin Haworth 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S

TD. Very good. Acclimatisation route that turned out harder than expected. http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/446734/fr/aiguille-du-midi-eperon-des-cosmiques-voie-guiffra-monaci

tuukka 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Did the 6b+ variation (one pitch of l'affaire electra)

with Juha, Maija
Brian Birtle 23/Jun/06 Lead dog

Did the more direct variation with L'Affaire Electra (6b+) although aided past the crux of that pitch. Super day on the mountain, one of my best ever climbs!

with Martin
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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