Verdon Gorge > Gorges du Verdon >
 
Ula*** 6b

Adjacent Climbs
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[The cliffs of the Verdon Gorges, with Ula/La Demande area in the middle, 3 kb]1) 6a, 2) 6a, 3) 5+, 4) 6a, 5) 6a, 6) 6b, 7) 6a, 8) 6a, 9) 6a+. Together with La Demande, this is the other great line of L'Escalès. Three wandering warm up pitches lead into a 200m crack-system. The climbing is physical and sustained at the grade, and the rock impressive, with blank grey walls and harder routes either side. Though all belays are bolted, gear including some big stuff is essential unless you're happy running out 7m between existing bolts! Many parties avoid the first 3 pitches by accessing the route from the Jardin des Écureuils. In this case, from the base of Les Dalles Grises, traverse to the terrace 100m east, make two short abseils from a chain and tree to a narrow catwalk and the start of the crack system Start about 150m left of the base of the crack-line of La Demande where a loose-looking orange pillar leads to a break in the long line of overhangs at 40m. Spiral up this, trending right through the overhangs. Loop left, then right to access the ledge below the upper corner - this can be split to avoid rope drag. Follow the corner resolutely to the top in six sustained pitches of jamming and bridging. © ROCKFAX
Trad Rack Required, 9 Piches, 280M, lots of jamming with some off-width. Tape Up!

Photo: The cliffs of the Verdon Gorges, with Ula/La Demande area in the middle © nick simons
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Brilliant sustained climbing. We started from the original bottom, do 9 pitches, took circa 8 hours. Pitch 2 has sneaky hold to get over the bulge, Last six are fantastic sustained crack pitches, bit of jamming helpful but not compulsory. I found this quite strenuous and physical, was exhausted by the end, in a good way.
Robin Brooke - 2nd - May/13 with alan carne

Hidden - Jun/12

Goucho - May/12

Be aware that the bolts have been removed (Bolt belays remain) so take a good rack.
Jim Burton - 04/Oct/11

ryan_naked24 - Jun/11

P 1 - 3, 7
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Chris James

ryan_naked24 - 2011

Lead most of it.
rob.s22 - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with N.A

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Aug/10

Dave Searle - Lead - Aug/08 with jim

First 4 pitches only
chiverstom - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/08 with Dave Turner

9 hours climbing - superb.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Brian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/07

Climb from the ground up if you can. If you abseil in you will miss the brilliant second pitch
Lurkio - 25/Sep/07 with Paul W

Excellent intro to Verdon. Abseiled in so skipped the first 2 pitches that start from the ground. Mostly solid laybacking and jamming all the way. Take a few nuts and cams.
Morgan Woods - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/07 with Alan Carney

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/06

K1 - 2006

Neil Ireson - AltLd - Sep/02 with Pete M

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Oct/01 with anthony prior

Hidden - Sep/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/92

Duncan I - Jun/91 with Mike Long

Hidden - 1990

andy gittins - 1986

Hidden - 1985

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/82

Nic Robinson - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/82 with Irish George

Falko - AltLd O/S - 1982 with Alan Taylor

keefe - Aug/81

Hidden - AltLd - 1980

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Apr/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Calder, Obi-Wan is lost..., martinazando, M_W_Court, ianjfsutcliffe, Hidden, samrad, prinny, Dave Lacey
Voting
Total votes cast 8
hard 6b+0 of 4
6b+0 of 4
easy 6b+0 of 4
hard 6b3 of 4
6b1 of 4
easy 6b0 of 4
hard 6a+0 of 4
6a+0 of 4
easy 6a+0 of 4
3 Stars4 of 4
2 Stars0 of 4
1 Star0 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
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Style of ascent

Lead4 of 31 (12.9%)
Followed1 of 31 (3.2%)
Alt Leads13 of 31 (41.9%)
Unknown13 of 31 (41.9%)

'Climbed'18 of 31 (58.1%)
clean O/S12 of 31 (38.7%)
dnf1 of 31 (3.2%)