Rockfax Description
1) 6a, 2) 6a, 3) 5+, 4) 6a, 5) 6a, 6) 6b, 7) 6a, 8) 6a, 9) 6a+. Together with La Demande, this is the other great line of L'Escalès. Three wandering warm up pitches lead into a 200m crack-system. The climbing is physical and sustained at the grade, and the rock impressive, with blank grey walls and harder routes either side. Though all belays are bolted, gear including some big stuff is essential unless you're happy running out 7m between existing bolts! Many parties avoid the first 3 pitches by accessing the route from the Jardin des Écureuils. In this case, from the base of Les Dalles Grises, traverse to the terrace 100m east, make two short abseils from a chain and tree to a narrow catwalk and the start of the crack system
Start about 150m left of the base of the crack-line of La Demande where a loose-looking orange pillar leads to a break in the long line of overhangs at 40m. Spiral up this, trending right through the overhangs. Loop left, then right to access the ledge below the upper corner - this can be split to avoid rope drag. Follow the corner resolutely to the top in six sustained pitches of jamming and bridging. © Rockfax

ian d f 16/Oct Lead O/S

Missed the first few pitches. Great route, would have liked a bit more trad gear, I thought it was bolted!

Graham Baxter 23/May 2nd

1st 7 pitches to get to Au Dela De Delire. Not bolted any more. Some bolts on first pitch. Need large cams.

with Alan Carne
Hidden 16/May AltLd
stuart34 09/Apr/14 AltLd dnf

P 1 - 3? rained, got late went up the jardin then up something on the dalles grises

Hidden ?/Apr/14 AltLd
Robin Brooke ?/May/13 2nd

Brilliant sustained climbing. Started from bottom, so 9 pitches, 8 hours. P2 has sneaky hold to get over the bulge, last six are fantastic sustained crack pitches, bit of jamming helpful but not compulsory. I found this quite strenuous and physical even as second following the master.

with alan carne
Hidden ?/Jun/12 -
Goucho ?/May/12 AltLd rpt
Jim Burton 04/Oct/11 -

Be aware that the bolts have been removed (Bolt belays remain) so take a good rack.

Hidden ?/Jun/11 -
stuart34 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

P 1 - 3, 7

Hidden ??/2011 -
rob.s22 ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Lead most of it.

with N.A
Hidden 04/Aug/10 AltLd
Dave Searle ?/Aug/08 Lead
with jim
chiverstom 31/Mar/08 Lead O/S

First 4 pitches only

with Dave Turner
kingholmesy ??/2008 AltLd O/S

9 hours climbing - superb.

with Brian
Hidden 25/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Lurkio 25/Sep/07 -

Climb from the ground up if you can. If you abseil in you will miss the brilliant second pitch

with Paul W
Morgan Woods 26/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Excellent intro to Verdon. Abseiled in so skipped the first 2 pitches that start from the ground. Mostly solid laybacking and jamming all the way. Take a few nuts and cams.

with Alan Carney
Hidden 12/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
K1 ??/2006 -
Neil Ireson ?/Sep/02 AltLd
with Pete M
dan gibson ?/Oct/01 Lead O/S
with anthony prior
Les Ross ?/Jul/00 AltLd
with David Millar
Hidden ?/Sep/99 -
michael burrows 27/May/97 AltLd O/S

7 hours

with andy boorman
Hidden ?/May/92 Lead O/S
Duncan I ?/Jun/91 -
with Mike Long
Hidden ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1986 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
Hidden ?/Aug/82 AltLd O/S
Nic Robinson 29/Jul/82 AltLd O/S
with Irish George
Falko ??/1982 AltLd O/S
with Alan Taylor
keefe ?/Aug/81 -
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/79 AltLd dnf
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
atom, Hidden, Hidden, Chris Sansum, Hidden, etrillaud, Grigor, erik.., Nigel Coe, ChrisBrooke, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Calder, Obi-Wan is lost..., martinazando, M_W_Court, ianjfsutcliffe, Hidden, samrad, prinny, Dave Lacey
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set