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Hell's Lum*** III

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[Hell's Lum Left Edge, 3 kb]Climb the obvious deep gully on the west end of the cliff. Under banked out conditions there is a pitch of steep snow followed by a couple of ice pitches and a steep cornice exit. A very atmospheric route.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.

Photo: Hell's Lum Left Edge © Angus Murray
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 115 logbooks, and on 50 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/14

alan.rodger - AltLd - 20/Jan/14 with gerhard mors

In good condition, ice screws and deadman useful.
morsg - AltLd - 20/Jan/14 with Alan Rodger

Deep powder, rotten ice, frozen cracks and no gear. That's IV in my book!
andybrown114 - Lead - 29/Dec/13 with Jim Watchorn, Lis Robinson

Cadairmanuk - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/13 with John Weale

Lean conditions. Soloed first pitch including short ice step over chockstone. Rich lead next (crux) pitch ~6-8m near-vertical ice step. DH did next pitch with another ice step but not as steep. DP lead final pitch with short ice section through narrows and steep cornice exit. Horrendous spin drift going over top. Definitely grade IV today.
DavPk - AltLd - 19/Jan/13 with Dave Heritage, Richard Church

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jan/13

crispy - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/13 with Steven

dan doran - 27/Dec/12

konacol - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/12 with Danny Doran

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Dec/12

joeydurkin - AltLd - 13/Dec/12 with Jimmy

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Dec/12

muzz44 - Lead O/S - Dec/12

Surprisingly good condition. Great neve and a short steep thin ice crux at top of 1st pitch. Prob high end IV today. Well worth the walk in when everything else was stripped
andybrown114 - AltLd - 25/Feb/12 with Rick Brown, Tony Lancashire

Drippy with soft top out but good belay below
Batt - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12 with James Hoyes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12

Fairly easy, but soft and scary cornice.
Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/12 with Rachel B

A great trip through some impressive surroundings
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/12 with Andy

Theeni - 2nd - 11/Feb/12 with Mike Kennedy

Great route and in good nick.
kenneM - Lead - 11/Feb/12 with Henry Crosby

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/12

morsy - AltLd - 29/Jan/12 with peter berwick

joe king - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with steve pettit

Pete23 - AltLd - 29/Jan/12 with Stephen Mors

did the last two pitches in a one-a, didnt have enough rope left to sling around a boulder at the top, made an ice axe t slot anchor which was fine! Amazing weather!
cmars89 - Lead - 28/Jan/12 with Hodge

Quite busy which is shame, but a cool route and Hells Lum is always amazing.
t_stork - Lead - 28/Jan/12 with Bregje

Excellent route - two short ice pitches
steveP - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Paul Rowlands

Caspar - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Alex Peace

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jan/12

a13x - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Caspian

Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 22/Jan/12 with John

Callum Anderson - 2012

iaincoker - 2nd - 2012 with simon coker

Pretty much swam the last 5 metres, 15m above a shitty stubby screw in shitty ice, above a ranshackle belay of 2 small half hammered in wires, a half hammered in kingpin, and a half inch hammered in bulldog :) My partner couldn't get one of the wires and the bulldog out so musta been ok!
freudy_love - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Neil Barron

williamsd79 - 2nd - 01/Feb/11 with Andy Woolston

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/11 with James HoarMaster

Kayan - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/11 with Dan Abbatt

Melty
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/11 with jacob davies

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jan/11

waiting a long time to do this. Wonderful remote atmosphere away from Sneachda. Climbing is straightforward but the situation is awesome. Great mountaineering day. Soloed to ice pitch with good rock belay. Ran out 60m to another rock belay and 30 m out to r of cornice.
abbeywall - AltLd - 22/Jan/11 with K

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/11

Alasdair88 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/11 with Tom baines

Led main pitch. Soloed up to the base of the main ice fall, after trying Deep Cut and going off route. Massive powder drop on us from above the Chancer, and loads of spindrift!
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Sam S

shugsan - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/11 with Max, Chris A

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/11

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

John Roe - Lead - 09/Mar/10 with Brian Smith (Kinloss), Sam Thorburn

mark88 - AltLd - 09/Mar/10 with Graham Kelshaw

Alt leads with Roddy MacTaggart. Best weather ever seen in cairngorms. Awesome clear blue sky. Plenty of ice on route, 2 steep but short sections. Huge cornice but easily turned.
Si Carter - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/10

Timo Austino - Solo - 20/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Feb/10

Ski descent
hcreber - 2010

Dave Everett - 2nd - Mar/09

tallthinmonkey - 2nd - Mar/09 with Rafa

Hidden - Solo - 24/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Feb/09

groovypiper - Solo O/S - 14/Feb/09

Went across to do the Chancer but blunt tools and cowardice made us change plans pretty quickly!
Neil Adams - Solo O/S - 01/Feb/09 with Ally F

Fultonius - Solo - 01/Feb/09 with Neil Adams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/09

inuklm - AltLd - 03/Jan/09 with Dave Gent

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/09

Super lean conditions, finished out of the gully, as left ice was thin
tomt11j - AltLd - Jan/09 with Saul, Serge

jsrous - AltLd - 2009 with Aly Robertson

Novice - 2009

andymoin - AltLd rpt - 28/Dec/08 with Warren

adw07 - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/08 with Andy Main

cracking little ice pitch on the middle. top end grade 3 in lean conditions.
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/08 with john

Lean conditions, so prob. an extremeley kicked in III/IV.
davidgent - AltLd O/S - Dec/08 with Kunal

Ice conditions were very thin. Heart in mouth when Phil led second pitch with no protection.
Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 29/Nov/08 with Tim Pearson, Phil

and Nick
Captain Solo - AltLd rpt - 29/Jan/08 with Karl

Abortive camp on the plateau sent us to the relative quiet of Loch Avon and a return the next day via Hell's Lum
markharro - Lead - 2008 with Mark Clark

RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/07 with andymoin, Andrew Barrett

Very atmospheric, big iceicls covering the left walk, I led the first pitch and the two ice falls, some good ice covered with a layer of snow. Want to come back in lean condition when its less banked out.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Andy Barret, rob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/07

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/07 with Dan Jordan

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jan/07

Tom Gadsden - Lead O/S - Jan/07

Led P1, Mike through cornice. Long first pitch, best belay off first large block.
Tom Gadsden - Lead O/S - Jan/07 with Mike

timmy-ts - 2007

3 steep ice sections, need a rope chucked down for the cornice after trying to take the vertical left exit .... idiot.
andyinglis - Solo - Feb/06 with steve

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/06

Since a recent Rock fall, there was a steep ice pitch, Joe said grade 5!
francis blunt - 2nd - Jan/06 with Joe Williams

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Jan/06 with Stuart Shaw

The second ice pitch was III/IV.
Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - Jan/06 with Andy Munro

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 2006

Captain Solo - Solo - 14/Mar/05

easers - 2nd - Mar/05 with Stuart, Doug Aitken

Dave Latimer - AltLd - 29/Dec/04

John Kettle - Solo - 2004

Humungous cornice, escaped up right with thanks.
crowberry gully - 13/Mar/03 with Ross McGibbon

very good conditions
niall_mac - Solo - Feb/03

Ben lad - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 26/Feb/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/01

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Dec/99

Jamie B - AltLd - Dec/99 with Mike Warren

BobbyMotherwell - AltLd O/S - Feb/98 with Duncan Walker, Ken Harris, Eric Horne

nickdonohue - AltLd - 25/Jan/98 with Derek Ashworth

Ran away after avalanche
andybrown114 - 2nd - Jan/98 with Stewart Leitch

dangates - 1998 with Kirk Watson

innes - AltLd O/S - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Dec/96

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 22/Dec/96 with Alan Smith

Hidden - AltLd - 1996

Hidden - 1996

mark-abz - Solo - 20/Feb/88 with Andy W

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Feb/84

Hidden - 2nd - 1981

Chris Craggs - AltLd - Feb/80 with Steve Warwick

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Voting
Total votes cast 52
hard IV0 of 29
IV0 of 29
easy IV13 of 29
hard III1 of 29
III4 of 29
easy III1 of 29
hard II/III10 of 29
II/III0 of 29
easy II/III0 of 29
3 Stars15 of 23
2 Stars8 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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Style of ascent

Soloed10 of 115 (8.7%)
Lead12 of 115 (10.4%)
Followed16 of 115 (13.9%)
Alt Leads66 of 115 (57.4%)
Unknown11 of 115 (9.6%)

'Climbed'69 of 115 (60.0%)
clean O/S44 of 115 (38.3%)
clean rpt2 of 115 (1.7%)