Climb the obvious deep gully on the west end of the cliff. Under banked out conditions there is a pitch of steep snow followed by a couple of ice pitches and a steep cornice exit. A very atmospheric route.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, CUMC Ticklist, 3 star Scottish winter.

Pete Rigby 20/Feb AltLd
kelliroberts3 20/Feb AltLd
with Dave OB
clams ?/Feb Lead
with PR
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Hidden 23/Dec/14 AltLd
Hidden 23/Dec/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
alan.rodger 20/Jan/14 AltLd
morsg 20/Jan/14 AltLd

In good condition, ice screws and deadman useful.

Hidden 29/Dec/13 Lead
Cadairmanuk 18/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with John Weale
DavPk 19/Jan/13 AltLd

Lean conditions. Soloed first pitch including short ice step over chockstone. Rich lead next (crux) pitch ~6-8m near-vertical ice step. DH did next pitch with another ice step but not as steep. DP lead final pitch with short ice section through narrows and steep cornice exit. Horrendous spin drift going over top. Definitely grade IV today.

with Dave Heritage, Richard Church
Hidden 19/Jan/13 AltLd
crispy 19/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Steven
dan doran 27/Dec/12 -
konacol 27/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with Danny Doran
Hidden 18/Dec/12 2nd
joeydurkin 13/Dec/12 AltLd
with Jimmy
Hidden 12/Dec/12 2nd
muzz44 ?/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 AltLd
Batt 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Drippy with soft top out but good belay below

Hidden 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Fairly easy, but soft and scary cornice.

victim of mathematics 11/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

A great trip through some impressive surroundings

with Andy
Theeni 11/Feb/12 2nd
with Mike Kennedy
kenneM 11/Feb/12 Lead

Great route and in good nick.

with Henry Crosby
Hidden ?/Feb/12 AltLd
morsy 29/Jan/12 AltLd
with peter berwick
joe king 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with steve pettit
Pete23 29/Jan/12 AltLd
with Stephen Mors
cmars89 28/Jan/12 Lead

did the last two pitches in a one-a, didnt have enough rope left to sling around a boulder at the top, made an ice axe t slot anchor which was fine! Amazing weather!

with Hodge
t_stork 28/Jan/12 Lead

Quite busy which is shame, but a cool route and Hells Lum is always amazing.

with Bregje
steveP 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Excellent route - two short ice pitches

Hidden 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jan/12 2nd
a13x 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Caspian
Matthew Robinson 22/Jan/12 2nd
with John
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
iaincoker ??/2012 2nd
with simon coker
freudy_love 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Pretty much swam the last 5 metres, 15m above a shitty stubby screw in shitty ice, above a ranshackle belay of 2 small half hammered in wires, a half hammered in kingpin, and a half inch hammered in bulldog :) My partner couldn't get one of the wires and the bulldog out so musta been ok!

Hidden 12/Feb/11 2nd
williamsd79 01/Feb/11 2nd
centurion05 01/Feb/11 Lead
with dyl
danJBA 28/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Kayan 28/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 28/Jan/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden 22/Jan/11 AltLd
abbeywall 22/Jan/11 AltLd

waiting a long time to do this. Wonderful remote atmosphere away from Sneachda. Climbing is straightforward but the situation is awesome. Great mountaineering day. Soloed to ice pitch with good rock belay. Ran out 60m to another rock belay and 30 m out to r of cornice.

with K
Hidden 21/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Alasdair88 21/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom baines
Cardi 09/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Led main pitch. Soloed up to the base of the main ice fall, after trying Deep Cut and going off route. Massive powder drop on us from above the Chancer, and loads of spindrift!

with Sam S
shugsan 02/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Max, Chris A
chrisallan 02/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/11 AltLd
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
John Roe 09/Mar/10 Lead
with Brian Smith (Kinloss), Sam Thorburn
mark88 09/Mar/10 AltLd
with Graham Kelshaw
Brian Smith 84 ?/Mar/10 2nd

First steep ice route, fantastic day under blue skies with some nice ice pitches. Big cornice to turn at the top.

with Sam Thorburn, John Roe
Si Carter 23/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Alt leads with Roddy MacTaggart. Best weather ever seen in cairngorms. Awesome clear blue sky. Plenty of ice on route, 2 steep but short sections. Huge cornice but easily turned.

Timo Austino 20/Feb/10 Solo
Hidden 18/Feb/10 AltLd
hcreber ??/2010 -

Ski descent

Dave Everett ?/Mar/09 2nd
tallthinmonkey ?/Mar/09 2nd
with Rafa
Hidden 24/Feb/09 Solo
Hidden 15/Feb/09 AltLd
groovypiper 14/Feb/09 Solo O/S
Neil Adams 01/Feb/09 Solo O/S

Went across to do the Chancer but blunt tools and cowardice made us change plans pretty quickly!

with Ally F
Fultonius 01/Feb/09 Solo
Hidden 01/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
inuklm 03/Jan/09 AltLd
with Dave Gent
Hidden 01/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
tomt11j ?/Jan/09 AltLd

Super lean conditions, finished out of the gully, as left ice was thin

with Saul, Serge
jsrous ??/2009 AltLd
with Aly Robertson
Novice ??/2009 -
andymoin 28/Dec/08 AltLd rpt
with Warren
adw07 28/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
mulletcocktail2000 28/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

cracking little ice pitch on the middle. top end grade 3 in lean conditions.

with john
davidgent ?/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Lean conditions, so prob. an extremeley kicked in III/IV.

with Kunal
Jim Slater 29/Nov/08 2nd O/S

Ice conditions were very thin. Heart in mouth when Phil led second pitch with no protection.

with Tim Pearson, Phil Lee
Captain Solo 29/Jan/08 AltLd rpt

and Nick

with Karl
markharro ??/2008 Lead

Abortive camp on the plateau sent us to the relative quiet of Loch Avon and a return the next day via Hell's Lum

with Mark Clark
RobScotland 03/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with andymoin, Andrew Barrett
andymoin 03/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Very atmospheric, big iceicls covering the left walk, I led the first pitch and the two ice falls, some good ice covered with a layer of snow. Want to come back in lean condition when its less banked out.

Hidden 21/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
djking1983 19/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/07 AltLd
Tom Gadsden ?/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Tom Gadsden ?/Jan/07 Lead O/S

Led P1, Mike through cornice. Long first pitch, best belay off first large block.

with Mike
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Nobster 30/Dec/06 Lead O/S
with Sven
andyinglis ?/Feb/06 Solo

3 steep ice sections, need a rope chucked down for the cornice after trying to take the vertical left exit .... idiot.

with steve
drysori ?/Jan/06 2nd

Second winter route, quite thin and others thought maybe IV which was nice.

with Malcolm, Coups
Hidden ?/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
francis blunt ?/Jan/06 2nd

Since a recent Rock fall, there was a steep ice pitch, Joe said grade 5!

with Joe Williams
Chris L Hill ?/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Shaw
Jamie Simpson ?/Jan/06 AltLd O/S

The second ice pitch was III/IV.

with Andy Munro
mike.moss ??/2006 AltLd O/S
benclimbing 29/Dec/05 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 14/Mar/05 Solo
Zippy1999 ??/2005 AltLd
with Dom Porter
Dave Latimer 29/Dec/04 AltLd
John Kettle ??/2004 Solo
crowberry gully 13/Mar/03 -

Humungous cornice, escaped up right with thanks.

with Ross McGibbon
Hidden 21/Feb/03 2nd
niall_mac ?/Feb/03 Solo

very good conditions

Ben lad ??/2003 -
Hidden 26/Feb/02 Lead
LakesWinter 18/Feb/01 AltLd O/S

Excellent conditions

with Wil
Hidden 20/Dec/99 AltLd
Jamie B ?/Dec/99 AltLd
with Mike Warren
BobbyMotherwell ?/Feb/98 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Walker, Ken Harris, Eric Horne
nickdonohue 25/Jan/98 AltLd
with Derek Ashworth
Hidden ?/Jan/98 2nd
dangates ??/1998 -
with Kirk Watson
innes ??/1997 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Dec/96 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 22/Dec/96 AltLd
with Alan Smith
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Hidden ??/1996 -
pingora 22/Feb/88 -
with A Small
mark-abz 20/Feb/88 Solo
with Andy W
Hidden 23/Feb/84 AltLd
Hidden ??/1984 Solo
Hidden ??/1981 2nd
Chris Craggs ?/Feb/80 AltLd
with Steve Warwick
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High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set