Deep Cut Chimney (Winter)*** IV 5
[Dave Gladwin on the exit pitch of Deep Cut Chimney, 2 kb]3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Cairngorm Winter Climbs, CUMC Ticklist, 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: Dave Gladwin on the exit pitch of Deep Cut Chimney © Ben Tibbetts
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 150 logbooks, and on 57 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/15

A lot is packed in to the final meters!
Piers Harley - 19/Feb/15 with Jeremy Windsor

Quite thin Ice on pitches but Great Climb
ManxClimber - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Luca

Fantastic alpine conditions, shared the route with only one other party. Could do with a hard freeze but otherwise excellent.
planetmarshall - AltLd - 08/Feb/15 with Masa Sakano

Andrew lead P1 and P3, I lead P2 (all roughly 30 metres). Scratchy, as the there was little to no ice, except for the bottom part, which was in a good nick. Nice alpine weather.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Andrew M

abbeywall - AltLd - 07/Feb/15 with SJ, FM

Lots and lots of snow and no frozen turf. Abandoned after first pitch with Tom
jpc1 - AltLd - 04/Jan/15

Tough conditions. Powdery snow was not bonded to the route which made the first few pitches quite desperate and and precarious. Vague floating is the best way to describe technique. The crux was a stunning pitch done in the dark. Worth 4 stars a real classic.
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/15 with Neil Griffiths

Unconsolidated and precarious. Big moon spectacular on the walk out. Felt hard.
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 03/Jan/15 with Adam

Nick Wallis - 2015 with BMC international meet

Still some unconsolidated powder in the gulley. Still not sure if I was facing the right way on the last pitch.
gripped01 - Lead - 29/Dec/14 with Dan Graves

Climbed 1st & 2nd Pitch A team were on the crux pitch and I was concerned about having to climb it in the dark, We decided to abb off and walk out. Had fun naving across the in a pitch black blizzard.
Adamski1986 - AltLd dnf - 28/Dec/14 with Zoe Strong

peter.herd - AltLd - 26/Dec/14 with Liam Malone

malone - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/14 with Peter Herd

Unfrozen and unconsolidated. Rapelled off.
olekemi - AltLd dnf - 22/Mar/14 with Mark G

mark-abz - 2nd - 27/Feb/14 with Paul J

Abbed off from beneath top due lack of gear with placements and side walls buried in lots of slush.
LJKing - AltLd dnf - 19/Feb/14 with Jeremy Windsor

kelliroberts3 - AltLd - 21/Jan/14 with Peter Rigby

Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/14 with Kelli Roberts

Ace! Sustained at the bottom and a cool last pitch. Back and foot and amazing layaway hooks - maybe a bit easier with longer leggs or a fuller pack.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/14 with Ryan, Ali

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/14

Good fun, last pitch looked a bit improbable till I set off then got into the swing (or more accurately shuffle)of things. Rather hairy heading back over the plateau.
Craig Holden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/14 with Alex Toomey

alex toomey - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/14 with craig holden

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/14

Hidden - Solo dnf - 11/Jan/14

Fantastic route (got it second time round!!) - hard going back over the plateau in the wind. Think this is probably the hardest IV in the universe - but also maybe one of the best - due to the last pitch.
kenneM - AltLd - 05/Jan/14 with Carl Davies

Cheeky final pitch. Glad Ken was there!
tom_holdsworth - 2nd - 05/Jan/14 with Mike Kennedy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jan/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2014

saintlade - 2014

not in good condition - hard to protect, turf not frozen, ice falling off, lot of snow hiding the cracks. Had to force an early and technically difficult exit early out of chimney / arete.. probably about V 6. Excellent route though.
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Andy Wilson

Took an even earlier exit up the side of the chimney on the top pitch. This was only above the 1st step after the belay. Great lead from mat. Further progress up the chimney barred by bottomless powder on rock.
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Matt Nuttall

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/13

scary approach slopes and lots of powder higher in chimney. climbed to within 7m of top.. then backed off.
Helen Gibson - AltLd dnf - 30/Mar/13 with Chris Vernon

gavmac - AltLd - Mar/13 with Steve Paget

Great route
Roonix - 2nd - 24/Feb/13

BUZZ1984 - 2nd - 24/Feb/13 with Gavin Pike

Hell's Lum choice of routes a bit limited today so went for a repeat of DCC as it looked good from below. Wonderful snow ice and a joy to climb, infinitely better than my first ascent.
Captain Solo - AltLd rpt - 23/Feb/13 with Dave Kerr

Great route. Ice/snow on lower pitches was fine.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 20/Feb/13 with Victor, John

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/13

Glad I didn't lead the last pitch!
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13

Very cold blustery day. http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/20-01-13-hells-lum-cairngorms-winter.html
PAJames - 20/Jan/13

Led the entertaining exit pitch and a couple of earlier ones. Starting the back-and-foot is a daunting prospect, but fine once established (and once my partner's guidance based on 19-year old memories was ignored).
niallk - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/13 with Willie

tom.e - AltLd - 19/Jan/13 with Danny

Conditions made this tough for the grade. Fresh snow and not much ice lower down. Chimney was very entertaining.
Mark Grist - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Nick Allsop, Sam Simpson

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Nick Allsop, Mark Grist

centurion05 - Lead - 25/Dec/12 with Ben thynne

Hannah Evans - AltLd - 16/Dec/12 with Scott Kirkhope

Covered in haw frost when we got to the point where we had to exit the chimney we couldn't see the line and so bailed. On return one look at a UKC picture and we realised our error. The sort of route that should have the phrase 'cheeky exit' or 'improbable finish' in my eyes, though probably more obvious in less powdery conditions. The retreat made for a long day, need to come back for it now!
Theeni - 2nd dnf - 15/Dec/12 with Mike Kennedy

kenneM - Lead dnf - 15/Dec/12 with Henry Crosby

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/12

powder covered rock...lots of scraping but good fun!
a_hein - AltLd O/S - Dec/12 with Susan Jenson

Had planned to do Sticil face but a major thaw put paid to that. This, however, was a fantastic consolation route which was still nicely frozen.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/12 with Martin Haworth

Corker of a route, fantastic finish.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/12 with Andy

Glorious day, nice continuous climbing with an entertaining exit!
whispering nic - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/12 with Pam

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 26/Jan/12 with Gordon

Currently my favourite winter route, if not favourite ever route.
67hours - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/12 with Bristoldave

Led P1&3
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/12 with George

turf was just about frozen although thawing quick. Ab'd off before the end as the highest pitches were completely bare rock
OwenF - AltLd dnf - 14/Jan/12 with Stephi

Stephi - AltLd dnf - 14/Jan/12 with OwenF

Lots of unfrozen turf and bad ice at the bottom changing into reasonably compacted snow in the middle and then horrible powder at the top. It was out of the wind though
Harry Holmes - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Dougal, Dr Tom

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Callum Anderson - 2012

newtonmore - Lead - 15/Dec/11

A real fight due to poor conditions on the initial slopes and bottomless powder in the chimmney. Did it in five pitches and led the crux in the dark...
Scotsken - Lead - 06/Dec/11

Hidden - 2nd - Dec/11

Hidden - Lead - 05/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/11

Spence22 - AltLd β - 26/Feb/11 with Guy

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Feb/11

Ended up leading the top pitch - not as bad as it looks
Gustav - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/11 with Matt G

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/11

Led crux.
machars - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Bjorn Verduijn

Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/11 with thom simmons

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Feb/11

Drew M - AltLd - Feb/11 with Kane Chandler

Fantastic.
t_stork - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Rory Brown, Marcus Brown

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jan/11

The two last pitches were great. Loved the finish :)
sebrider - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Mike Bland

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/11

peebles boy - 2nd - Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

David Sherratt - AltLd O/S - 2011

A bit melty and I got very damp. A difficult but short crux. A fierce white-out on top made for an interesting homeward slog.
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Trevor Carpenter

Hidden - Lead - 10/Mar/10

Hidden - 14/Feb/10

The lower chimney was nicely iced
crowberry gully - 2nd - 14/Feb/10 with Andy Nisbet

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jan/10

d_meacher - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/09 with David Webster

soloed 1st pitch, lead a short pitch from the upper gully into the heart of the chimney, partner lead the rest. excelent mixed climbing in near perfect conditions!
Webster - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/09

Very warm start to the day, powdery conditions at the start, unfortunately there was already a pair on the climb, so we didn't have the crag to ourselves. The leader of the pair infront of us was unfortunate to dislodge the flake he had used for protection and had torqued his axe on for the final set of moves out onto the chalk stones at the crux!!! Not sure how this affect the climb for those wanting to make the final set of moves in the sam way. An excellent day.
John Roe - Lead - 04/Mar/09 with Stu Joyce, Marcus Littler

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Feb/09

quality!
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/09 with john

fantastic conditions... top pitch a little gem
joe king - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/09 with steve pettit

Amazing crux at the top. I'm not sure if I could explain to anyone quite how it's done...
steveP - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/09 with Paul Rowlands

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/09

decs - AltLd - 24/Jan/09 with Steve

Hidden - 23/Jan/09

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jan/09

Must do climb. The return from inner Earth is good value for the grade.
hwackerhage - 14/Dec/08 with Brian

Very nice climbing, Soloed up to the chimney then did the route in two pitches, awesome top pitch with some funky chimney action. Haul or leave sack somewhere if you can.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/08 with James Dunn

gregor - 25/Nov/08

Captain Solo - AltLd - 02/Mar/08 with Ewan

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 13/Mar/07 with Clive

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/07 with neil adams

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/07 with Andy Inglis

jimdanson - AltLd - 27/Jan/07 with dan middleton

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/06

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06

oor wullie - Feb/06 with Risto kalampa

barney_edin - 2nd - 19/Dec/05 with Phil A

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 03/Jan/04 with Richard Jewell, Matt Dent

Gman - AltLd O/S - Jan/04 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/03

zero six - AltLd O/S - 2003

niall_mac - AltLd - Dec/02 with am_bodach

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/02

konacol - AltLd - 18/Mar/01 with Robert McMurray

also feb 2001 with Guy Fox Kelly
uphillnow - AltLd - Jan/00 with Terry Nicholls

Paul Figg - AltLd - 09/Jan/99

ArnaudG - Jan/99 with Jon

Hidden - 1999

Scotsken - 1999

Hidden - Lead - 1999

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/98

Hidden - 01/Feb/98

dangates - 1998 with Kirk Watson

Brilliant!
nickdonohue - AltLd - 20/Mar/96 with Caley Latham

2,L,2,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/95 with Pete Leeming, Shell, Andy Wingfield

used a back rope round the roof.
frost - Solo - Feb/95

Sticil Face, Direct finish to car park!
Grezza - Lead - Feb/95 with Andy Kemp

Hidden - AltLd - 1995

TheAndyBarker - AltLd - Jan/93

Only lead P1 had an epic in unconsolidated deep snow, non frozen turf and finnishing in dark without head torch's & rucksacs
Yourlead - AltLd - 17/Nov/91 with Graham Penny

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Dec/87

John Marsland - Lead - 25/Feb/87 with Dave Cousins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/87

Hidden - AltLd - 1985

Mark Kemball - Lead - 31/Jan/84 with Mike Dennison

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
deanstonmassif, Chrismith, fifth, Zippy1999, Swampi, ryan_naked24, muzz44, Adamski1986, punj, kenneM, iksander, MrRiley, Dustin, peter.herd, Lawrie Brand, JonmapDL, skirton, drunkpossum, Gibson, joeydurkin, s kennedy, michael83, djking1983, Ian Jones, filo, LardClimber, vincentvega, Mark020, andybuckley, cashley, Sandy Simpson, gareth r, French Erick

Voting
Total votes cast 94
hard V0 of 37
V2 of 37
easy V0 of 37
hard IV3 of 37
IV31 of 37
easy IV1 of 37
hard III0 of 37
III0 of 37
easy III0 of 37
hard 60 of 26
60 of 26
easy 60 of 26
hard 59 of 26
515 of 26
easy 50 of 26
hard 42 of 26
40 of 26
easy 40 of 26
3 Stars29 of 31
2 Stars2 of 31
1 Star0 of 31
0 Stars0 of 31
Bag of .....0 of 31
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
DNF