Tough conditions. Powdery snow was not bonded to the route which made the first few pitches quite desperate and and precarious. Vague floating is the best way to describe technique. The crux was a stunning pitch done in the dark. Worth 4 stars a real classic.
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/15 with Neil Griffiths
Unconsolidated and precarious. Big moon spectacular on the walk out. Felt hard.
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 03/Jan/15 with Adam
Climbed 1st & 2nd Pitch A team were on the crux pitch and I was concerned about having to climb it in the dark, We decided to abb off and walk out. Had fun naving across the in a pitch black blizzard.
Adamski1986 - AltLd dnf - 28/Dec/14 with Zoe Strong
peter.herd - AltLd - 26/Dec/14 with Liam Malone
malone - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/14 with Peter Herd
Unfrozen and unconsolidated. Rapelled off.
olekemi - AltLd dnf - 22/Mar/14 with Mark G
mark-abz - 2nd - 27/Feb/14 with Paul J
Abbed off from beneath top due lack of gear with placements and side walls buried in lots of slush.
LJKing - AltLd dnf - 19/Feb/14 with Jeremy Windsor
kelliroberts3 - AltLd - 21/Jan/14 with Peter Rigby
Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/14 with Kelli Roberts
Ace! Sustained at the bottom and a cool last pitch. Back and foot and amazing layaway hooks - maybe a bit easier with longer leggs or a fuller pack.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/14 with Ryan, Ali
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/14
Good fun, last pitch looked a bit improbable till I set off then got into the swing (or more accurately shuffle)of things. Rather hairy heading back over the plateau.
Craig Holden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/14 with Alex Toomey
alex toomey - AltLd O/S - 18/Jan/14 with craig holden
bit short for all the hype
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/14 with Adam Russel
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/14
Hidden - Solo dnf - 11/Jan/14
Fantastic route (got it second time round!!) - hard going back over the plateau in the wind. Think this is probably the hardest IV in the universe - but also maybe one of the best - due to the last pitch.
kenneM - AltLd - 05/Jan/14 with Carl Davies
Cheeky final pitch. Glad Ken was there!
tom_holdsworth - 2nd - 05/Jan/14 with Mike Kennedy
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jan/14
Still some unconsolidated powder in the gulley. Still not sure if I was facing the right way on the last pitch.
gripped01 - Lead - 2014 with Dan Graves
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2014
saintlade - 2014
not in good condition - hard to protect, turf not frozen, ice falling off, lot of snow hiding the cracks. Had to force an early and technically difficult exit early out of chimney / arete.. probably about V 6. Excellent route though.
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Andy Wilson
Took an even earlier exit up the side of the chimney on the top pitch. This was only above the 1st step after the belay. Great lead from mat. Further progress up the chimney barred by bottomless powder on rock.
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Matt Nuttall
Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/13
scary approach slopes and lots of powder higher in chimney. climbed to within 7m of top.. then backed off.
Helen Gibson - AltLd dnf - 30/Mar/13 with Chris Vernon
gavmac - AltLd - Mar/13 with Steve Paget
Roonix - 2nd - 24/Feb/13
BUZZ1984 - 2nd - 24/Feb/13 with Gavin Pike
Hell's Lum choice of routes a bit limited today so went for a repeat of DCC as it looked good from below. Wonderful snow ice and a joy to climb, infinitely better than my first ascent.
Captain Solo - AltLd rpt - 23/Feb/13 with Dave Kerr
Great route. Ice/snow on lower pitches was fine.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 20/Feb/13 with Victor, John
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/13
Glad I didn't lead the last pitch!
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Mark Mosgrove
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13
Very cold blustery day. http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/20-01-13-hells-lum-cairngorms-winter.html
PAJames - 20/Jan/13
Led the entertaining exit pitch and a couple of earlier ones. Starting the back-and-foot is a daunting prospect, but fine once established (and once my partner's guidance based on 19-year old memories was ignored).
niallk - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/13 with Willie
tom.e - AltLd - 19/Jan/13 with Danny
Conditions made this tough for the grade. Fresh snow and not much ice lower down. Chimney was very entertaining.
The Grist - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Nick Allsop, Sam Simpson
Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Nick Allsop, Mark Grist
centurion05 - Lead - 25/Dec/12 with Ben thynne
Hannah Evans - AltLd - 16/Dec/12 with Scott Kirkhope
Covered in haw frost when we got to the point where we had to exit the chimney we couldn't see the line and so bailed. On return one look at a UKC picture and we realised our error. The sort of route that should have the phrase 'cheeky exit' or 'improbable finish' in my eyes, though probably more obvious in less powdery conditions. The retreat made for a long day, need to come back for it now!
Theeni - 2nd dnf - 15/Dec/12 with Mike Kennedy
kenneM - Lead dnf - 15/Dec/12 with Henry Crosby
Hidden - AltLd - Dec/12
Had planned to do Sticil face but a major thaw put paid to that. This, however, was a fantastic consolation route which was still nicely frozen.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/12 with Martin Haworth
Corker of a route, fantastic finish.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/12 with Andy
Glorious day, nice continuous climbing with an entertaining exit!
whispering nic - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/12 with Pam
Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 26/Jan/12 with Gordon
Currently my favourite winter route, if not favourite ever route.
67hours - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/12 with Bristoldave
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/12 with George
turf was just about frozen although thawing quick. Ab'd off before the end as the highest pitches were completely bare rock
OwenF - AltLd dnf - 14/Jan/12 with Stephi
Stephi - AltLd dnf - 14/Jan/12 with OwenF
Lots of unfrozen turf and bad ice at the bottom changing into reasonably compacted snow in the middle and then horrible powder at the top. It was out of the wind though
Harry Holmes - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Dougal, Dr Tom
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Callum Anderson - 2012
newtonmore - Lead - 15/Dec/11
A real fight due to poor conditions on the initial slopes and bottomless powder in the chimmney. Did it in five pitches and led the crux in the dark...
Scotsken - Lead - 06/Dec/11
nikkimac - 2nd - Dec/11 with Nick, Flash
Hidden - Lead - 05/Mar/11
Hidden - AltLd - Mar/11
Spence22 - AltLd β - 26/Feb/11 with Guy
LakesWinter - AltLd - 22/Feb/11 with gustav
Ended up leading the top pitch - not as bad as it looks
Gustav - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/11 with Matt G
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/11
machars - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Bjorn Verduijn
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/11 with thom simmons
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/11
Hidden - 2nd - 05/Feb/11
Drew M - AltLd - Feb/11 with Kane Chandler
t_stork - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Rory Brown, Marcus Brown
Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jan/11
The two last pitches were great. Loved the finish :)
sebrider - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Mike Bland
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/11
peebles boy - 2nd - Jan/11
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
David Sherratt - AltLd O/S - 2011
A bit melty and I got very damp. A difficult but short crux. A fierce white-out on top made for an interesting homeward slog.
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Trevor Carpenter
Hidden - Lead - 10/Mar/10
Great climb, back and footing out of the chimney was very "interesting"
StuDoig - 14/Feb/10 with Romain
The lower chimney was nicely iced
crowberry gully - 2nd - 14/Feb/10 with Andy Nisbet
Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jan/10
d_meacher - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/09 with David Webster
soloed 1st pitch, lead a short pitch from the upper gully into the heart of the chimney, partner lead the rest. excelent mixed climbing in near perfect conditions!
Webster - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/09
Very warm start to the day, powdery conditions at the start, unfortunately there was already a pair on the climb, so we didn't have the crag to ourselves. The leader of the pair infront of us was unfortunate to dislodge the flake he had used for protection and had torqued his axe on for the final set of moves out onto the chalk stones at the crux!!! Not sure how this affect the climb for those wanting to make the final set of moves in the sam way. An excellent day.
John Roe - Lead - 04/Mar/09 with Stu Joyce, Marcus Littler
Hidden - AltLd - 03/Feb/09
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/09 with john
fantastic conditions... top pitch a little gem
joe king - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/09 with steve pettit
Amazing crux at the top. I'm not sure if I could explain to anyone quite how it's done...
steveP - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/09 with Paul Rowlands
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/09
decs - AltLd - 24/Jan/09 with Steve
Hidden - 23/Jan/09
Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jan/09
Must do climb. The return from inner Earth is good value for the grade.
hwackerhage - 14/Dec/08 with Brian
Very nice climbing, Soloed up to the chimney then did the route in two pitches, awesome top pitch with some funky chimney action. Haul or leave sack somewhere if you can.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/08 with James Dunn
gregor - 25/Nov/08
Captain Solo - AltLd - 02/Mar/08 with Ewan
HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 13/Mar/07 with Clive
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/07 with neil adams
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/07 with Andy Inglis
jimdanson - AltLd - 27/Jan/07 with dan middleton
mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2007
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/06
Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06
oor wullie - Feb/06 with Risto kalampa
barney_edin - 2nd - 19/Dec/05 with Phil A
Dave Kerr - AltLd - 03/Jan/04 with Richard Jewell, Matt Dent
Gman - AltLd O/S - Jan/04 with Steve
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/03
zero six - AltLd O/S - 2003
niall_mac - AltLd - Dec/02 with am_bodach
Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/02
also feb 2001 with Guy Fox Kelly
David Smith - AltLd - Jan/00 with Terry Nicholls
Paul Figg - AltLd - 09/Jan/99
ArnaudG - Jan/99 with Jon
Tarquin - 1999
Scotsken - 1999
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/98
Hidden - 01/Feb/98
dangates - 1998 with Kirk Watson
nickdonohue - AltLd - 20/Mar/96 with Caley Latham
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/95 with Pete Leeming, Shell, Andy Wingfield
used a back rope round the roof.
frost - Solo - Feb/95
Sticil Face, Direct finish to car park!
Grezza - Lead - Feb/95 with Andy Kemp
Hidden - AltLd - 1995
TheAndyBarker - AltLd - Jan/93
Only lead P1 had an epic in unconsolidated deep snow, non frozen turf and finnishing in dark without head torch's & rucksacs
Yourlead - AltLd - 17/Nov/91 with Graham Penny
Hidden - 1988
John Marsland - Lead - 25/Feb/87 with Dave Cousins
Hidden - AltLd - 1985
Mark Kemball - Lead - 31/Jan/84 with Mike Dennison