Gwynedd > Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal) - Winter >
 
The Devils Kitchen (Winter)*** IV 5/6

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[Devil's Kitchen, 3 kb]30m. Note this climb is for Winter Conditions

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Photo: Devil's Kitchen © Matt Pigden
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 93 logbooks, and on 31 wishlists.

saintlade - 2014

yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014

Having done this in summer it was nice to come again in winter. the route didn't disappoint in terms of epic ness as I had to haul an exhausted Ceri up. Well formed though thinning, and very well hooked, no problem even with alpine axes
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with ceri

My first pure ice pitch on leashless axes. Well peppered with screw holes though, so didn't need to screw in fresh.
Ched - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Simon

Probably only swung my axes twice in getting up this. A proper hook-fest! Awesome situation tucked right back in the the gully though! Fair bit of loose snow ice falling into the gully from the sides as well.
andy dunn - 2nd - 06/Apr/13 with J

timofy - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13

Amazing route! Been on my list for a very long time now, glad to get it done. Bit short though, felt the pump a bit. Topped out at 9:30am!
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Thomas Reid

Soft touch as it had been climbed so often this season. Only had to swing my axe once!
Pete_Frost - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Olly Saunders

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Apr/13

Tom Hutton - 2nd - 02/Apr/13 with Rufus

Andy_B39 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with James Davidson

tim newton - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with stuart lade

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/13

Very good conditions. Fairly fat, plastic ice well protected with screws. Very atmospheric and rewarding steep ice climbing.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Apr/13 with Rob

robbraby - 2nd - Apr/13 with Steveo

Hidden - Solo O/S - Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Mar/13

adie84 - 31/Mar/13 with Ben Wolstenholme

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd RP - 31/Mar/13

Ben Wolstenholme - AltLd - 31/Mar/13 with Rob Adie

steve.warrington - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Dave Simpson, Nik Goile

Rested on ice screw after steep start. Great ice, well hooked out
Double Knee Bar - Lead - 30/Mar/13

SPD224 - Lead - 30/Mar/13 with William Day

With Glenn ( double knee bar) and Alex
climber34neil - 30/Mar/13

gw3285 - Lead - 30/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/13

Simul climbed the 100m intro up the gully over ice steps of II/III. G led icefall pitch. 10m of very steep vertical ice then the angle eased. Worth every star and then some.
stratandrew - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Gareth Williams

Praise be to Jurgen for the top rope. Superbly featured ice pitch.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - 2nd - 30/Mar/13 with Jurgen

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/13

Great nick, if a bit of hookfest.
ianstevens - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Ben Rigby, Adam Bloch

Jealous not to get the lead on this 1.. Well fat..
wolf.leeb - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with jo

ad111 - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/13

davebrox - 2nd - 27/Mar/13

davebrox - 2nd - 27/Mar/13

StuartCJones - 2nd β - Mar/13

Not in great condition, felt like a solid v, had to take an alternative start up a shallow groove 3m to the right then joining the route proper at around 10m, wading in deep snow up to chest high after topping out, hotaches from hell...
mr mills - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/13 with sion

Did not climb final ice fall crux, ice was too thin.
DannyK - Lead dnf - 02/Feb/12 with chrislgk

Hidden - 2012

Luke Brooks - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Less the hookfest than the previous time. Gear not bomber.
mynyddresident - Lead - 25/Dec/10 with chris

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Dec/10

Ashley Hold - 2nd O/S - 25/Dec/10 with Matthew Wheadon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Dec/10

Hooky,featured.
mynyddresident - 2nd - 06/Dec/10 with Greg C

Good lead by Tom. Was in similar condition to when I did it in January: solid IV 4 hookfest. Amazing to catch this in decent nick so early in the season. Climbed in G12s on my old B1s as the B3s were still being resoled.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Tom, Phil

Impressive - lots of people walking away as 'too thin'. However was an absolute hook'fest. Borrowed Mishas Cobras but never had to swing them! IV in this state. Fab location, just don't fall in the pool - brrr...
philhilo - 2nd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with tom Jumar, misha

Hidden - Lead dnf - 04/Dec/10

Hidden - Solo dnf - 04/Dec/10

Tricky getting across pool of water to start of steep ice. Backed-off due to (fragile looking) fluted ice with water running behind, would have been delicate, bold climbing & difficult to get decent screws. Looked alot harder than IV. Will go back when hopefully ice fatter & not thawing. (Had been led at least twice earlier that day!)
Ian Andrews - Lead dnf - 04/Dec/10 with Wayne Gordon, Pete Williams

Hidden - Lead - Dec/10

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jan/10

frost - Solo O/S - 13/Jan/10

Managed to get up early enough to be first on route that day :-)
LardClimber - 2nd - 10/Jan/10 with Dave Williams

Hidden - 09/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/10

MD - 2nd - 09/Jan/10 with Misha

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/10

Good climbing in a fantastic setting. Getting a bit chopped up but not a hookfest. Anyway, I didn't trust most of the hooks as somehow they didn't feel very secure, so largely did my own axe placements. On the other hand, the footholds were pretty good. The crux was a sustained steep section towards the bottom, after a short traverse left. Good climbing in a fantastic setting.
Misha - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/10 with Mike D, Paul, Ed

Short n sharp. Some hookin, very cold hands.
ruaidh - 2nd - 09/Jan/10 with Steve

Misha lead
eduardo - 2nd O/S - 09/Jan/10 with Misha, Mike D

Hidden - 09/Jan/10

Steeper than it looks and not exactly fat. But some good hooking higher up. Great lead by Paul after I backed off.
Rampikino - 2nd - 08/Jan/10 with Paul Cubbins

The Bad Cough - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/10 with Mat Dowsett

AB1965 - 07/Jan/10 with Baggy Richards

stevebarratt - 2nd O/S - 05/Jan/10 with Rob Bryniarski

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 22/Dec/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/09

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Feb/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Feb/09

robertporter - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/09 with Jonny Phillips

feilx - Lead dnf - 07/Feb/09 with Floris & Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/08

keith robo - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/07 with James Gerrie

Martyn - 2nd O/S - Mar/06 with Damien Jones

Ian McNeill - Lead O/S - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

pgac - Solo O/S - 20/Jul/97 with jenks

Hidden - 28/Jan/96

Very, very lean and brittle conditions with no real protection, superb lead by Karl.
Nick Biven - 2nd - 11/Feb/86 with Karl Strange

ChrisJD - Lead - 1986

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dr_botnik, Hidden, pwb1981, Hidden, Fitzy, PeteWilson, Hidden, CM1992, web10steelj, jadias, Hidden, JonmapDL, Hidden, SimonHolloway1, iksander, Lapepina, Hidden, inuklm, diabolous616, Hidden, jandyd05, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, fennerz, Hidden, sonno14sean, Diggler, Hidden, gareth r, simon geering

Voting
Total votes cast 43
hard V0 of 22
V1 of 22
easy V12 of 22
hard IV5 of 22
IV4 of 22
easy IV0 of 22
hard III0 of 22
III0 of 22
easy III0 of 22
3 Stars16 of 21
2 Stars4 of 21
1 Star1 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 93 (5.4%)
Lead31 of 93 (33.3%)
Followed36 of 93 (38.7%)
Alt Leads7 of 93 (7.5%)
Unknown14 of 93 (15.1%)

'Climbed'43 of 93 (46.2%)
clean O/S40 of 93 (43.0%)
clean β1 of 93 (1.1%)
clean RP1 of 93 (1.1%)
dogged2 of 93 (2.2%)
dnf6 of 93 (6.5%)