Rockfax Description
I, 100m, 1 hour. An enjoyable option when the Northwest Ridge is busy, which it often is. There is minimal technical difficulty but the traverse across the top of the Chevalier Couloir is exposed and can feel delicate in icy conditions.
Approach - Walk down the steps from the top station of the Grands Montets cable car to reach the Col des Grands Montets. Climb the glacier easily, initially on the left, then continue on the left.
1) Cross the bergschrund and front point up to below the rocky outcrop.
2) Traverse under the rock to reach the 'demi-lune' (half moon) snow arÍte at the top of the Chevalier Couloir.
3) Cross the 'demi-lune' and scramble easily up the final rocks to the summit.
Descent - Descend by the Northwest Ridge. The crux wall can be abseiled if needs be. From the foot of the crux wall it is possible to avoid the exposed snow traverse under the rock buttress by continuing along the ridge crest and then making 2 x 15m abseils to reach the curved snow ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the Col des Montets go up easy slopes on the left. Go up steeper slopes to the right of the ridge proper and join it at the demi-lune finish to the Chevalier Couloir. Continue up to the summit rocks. Sections at 50/55 degrees.


ClimberDateStyle
anthonylewis 10/Jul AltLd

Soft like Mr Whippy in parts.

Hidden 10/Jul AltLd
JenShelley 01/Jan -

In lots of powder snow. Really good fun.

with Rob, Mike
MichaelGallimore 01/Jan AltLd O/S

Stunning views over into the Argentiere basin. The snow was extremely powdery where it licked over the arête, making the climbing difficult, but on the whole and on the approach the snowpack was solid- checked by digging a few snow squares on the approach slopes. I heard a couple of days later a team of mountaineers were killed in an avalanche in the same area, which I think must have been due to new heavy snowfall as the snowpack seemed well bonded when we went up. Certainly made me think.

with Rob, JenShelley
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Wayne.Gaudin 06/Aug/14 Lead

Great weather. Great views. Abbed off the summit to avoid busy/tricky down climb.

with Louis
Hidden 04/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd
ndraper1 ?/Apr/14 -

Toured/climbed to ski Chevalier Couloir.

with Dave Chapman, Pete Houghton
chapmand ?/Apr/14 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Finn Curry 20/Aug/13 Lead
with John Wilshaw
justaddpowder 16/Aug/13 Lead

Got 1st lift to top lift station and geared up on the glacier. Moved together up slope of the ridge to the left, detouring up a short rock section. Hard snow up and no snow with bare ice up last section to the shoulder. lots of ice screws used. Quickly lead up 'crux' wall(3b) in crampons on shoulder and belayed Geoff and Ed up. Lots of traffic. Moved along ridge to summit and then abb'd on tat off ridge back down the way we climbed. 2 abbs to traverse across to 'ordinary' route dissent. not much snow on dissent route ether. 3512m (Summit) NE Ridge (I) AD (guide book)

Hidden 09/Aug/13 Solo
chris687 05/Aug/13 Lead

Descent

Jo sumner 05/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 21/Jul/13 AltLd
Nigel Bond 09/Jul/13 -
with Andy Blakely, Deirdre Collier
Slick 06/Jul/13 -
Egons Issy 06/Jul/13 -
Andrew will wilson ??/2013 -
Andrew will wilson ??/2013 -
guy757 30/Jul/12 -
Hidden 07/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/12 2nd
ladymuck 07/Jul/12 2nd

Descended after NW ridge, moved together in parts

masmith 07/Jul/12 AltLd
with Michael Mason, James Matthews
jimmatthews 07/Jul/12 Lead
mattfarr 06/Jul/12 2nd
with Al BMG
bsavage 03/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Made it to the bergshrund. Route very wind blown almost no snow with large Ice section, only had 2 ice screws and one rope. With poor weather moving in backed off route

with Jeremy Savage
Binder 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Started up the steep face (good fun) and joined the ridge at the demi-lune. Stopped just shy of the final summit.

with Chris L
Hidden 22/Jul/11 AltLd
HarryB 22/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ollie
catemuir 22/Jul/11 2nd
with Will
Marky Mark ?/Jul/11 -

Did the right hand ridge last year so this year opted for the left. Much nicer route, less busy. Demi lune is a great feature, very photogenic. Descended down the normal route but abseiled off the shoulder to avoid the crowds on the lower ridge. Great day out with my buddy for his first alpine climb

Harry Ellis 10/Sep/10 -
with Chris Cox
Hidden 14/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/10 -
Clay C 05/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Max
mark_chal 05/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Will
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead
nickdonohue ?/Apr/09 Lead

Did this in ascent then normal route descent - a nice combination.

with Francois ?
Hidden 07/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
rd20 22/Aug/08 Lead
with Martin
smolders 22/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Lead most of the descent

Krumme ?/Aug/08 -
garythomas ?/Jul/08 -
with Mike Jepson
galpinos 09/Sep/07 Lead
with Tim, Tim & Chris
HimTiggins 09/Sep/07 -
with Nick
Hidden ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/07 AltLd
RiPomc 17/Aug/07 AltLd
Cardi 14/Aug/07 Lead O/S

In descent

with Sunil
Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead O/S
lazyhopkins 23/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Jon Lynch
jl 23/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Brad
stephmonks 07/Jul/07 -
with Jess Longbottom
Hidden 06/Jul/07 -
wilchivs ?/Jul/07 2nd rpt
with Dave Ripley and Mark Walter
Mark Walter ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Wil and Dave
Glyn ?/Jul/07 -
with Trystan and Perry
tommytuffa ?/Jul/07 -

Part of Conville course guided

with FChris Fisher
Hidden 10/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
kleinej ?/Aug/06 Lead rpt
with James
Hidden 14/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
JonHarvey ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Great route, is now an AD in the new guidebooks. great steep ice section,, was out of condition when climbed during July '06 heatwave so was quite interesting!

with David Moir and Michael Maben
dmoir ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Jon Harvey and Mike Maben
Marmot Catcher 25/Jun/06 AltLd
Somerset swede basher 20/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Rich Siddle
Martyn ?/Sep/05 AltLd rpt
with James Williams
kleinej ?/Aug/05 Lead rpt
with Matt
kleinej ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Patrick
paddygoodwin ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Jason
franny ?/Aug/05 -
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
adamscottthomas 18/Jun/04 Solo
Andy Clarke 28/Jul/02 Lead

Good climbing, with a lovely 'half-moon' snow crest. Done as the first half of E-W traverse. Recommended as a fine alternative to the crowded NW Ridge.

with JamesW
Hidden 28/Jul/02 AltLd
Tubroos! ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S

Beautiful day out - we were abseiled over by a guided party, which was interesting to say the least. Not too crowded on top - walked back down to the valley rather than taking the lift.

with Kate Lloyd
Martyn ?/Aug/01 Lead rpt
with James Williams
rlrs ?/Sep/00 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
Martyn ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Rob Boylin
Hidden 20/Jul/98 -
sebastien ?/Jul/98 Lead
Martyn ?/Aug/97 2nd O/S
with Rob Boylin
Laramadness 29/Jul/96 -
with Steve Munton
Marti999 27/Jul/94 Solo
John Andrew Simpson ?/Mar/94 2nd O/S
with Ian Roberts
Pete Pozman 27/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
with John Byrne
davemhart 29/Jul/84 -
Hidden ?/Aug/76 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Dan Svensson, Hidden
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