Many prefer the slightly harder climbing here to the chaos of the Hornli ridge.

Bich/Carrel Jul/1865

Hidden 31/Aug -
squicky 16/Jul AltLd O/S

1 day before the 150th anniversary! Lots of climbers, most of them slow on the route and high winds so only stayed a couple of minutes at the summit. Climbing was continously interesting but didn't seem to feel like I'd climbed an awesome, iconic mountain. Maybe need to do the Hörnli now?

niw44 15/Jul Lead O/S

1 day after the 150th Anniversary of the 1st ascent. Excellent conditions, sunny, light winds. Because the mountain was closed on the 14th we had to start at the Abruzzi refuge, 9hrs to the top. Only 1 route finding error, after the chain up from the Carrel and rope climb in corner, climb gulley to ridge height and traverse high ledges to snowpatch and wire.

Sean_J 22/Aug/14 AltLd

Very snowy conditions, and a distinct lack of pro. Lots of knife edge ridges, and winds gusting up to about 60. Exciting! An excellent route.

with Tim
BenRyle 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Dan
Dan724 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Chose this hoping to avoid the 'chaos of the Hornli ridge', however, we still encountered plenty of punters. At one point a guy abseiled onto the shoulders of me and 2 guides. He then became frenzied and repeatedly kicked us the shoulders with his crampons before jumping onto my rope. Overall there was a generally hysterical atmosphere on the mountain. This was down to the large numbers of guided teams who turned back due to ice on the route and abseiled n top of other teams, getting ropes tangled and dropping rocks. The Zinalrothorn was much better and the people we encountered more friendly and considerate. The fixed ropes are indeed a shame and actually make some of the climbing harder as they are blocking the holds.

Michael 26/Jul/13 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Stuart Johnston 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Great climbing ruined by fixed ropes. Get to the Carrel hut early if you want a bed. It was full be about 1pm when we climbed. Route finding can be tricky in the dark so don't start too early. That said if you are going down the Hornli (which is tedious and exceptionally long) don't underestimate the time required to get down to the lift (7h ish).

with Misha Gopaul
Jim Brownlow 20/Aug/11 AltLd

Brilliant ascent, couldn't have done it without Bradders. Descent brutal, three times as long. Had an unplanned bivvy. Glad I bought the bivvy bag, unlike Bradders!

Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

What a mountain! Descended Hornli. Been on list for ages. Bit annoying to have all the fixed ropes there, Zmutt probably a nicer experience overall.

with Paul Mann
Cham32 ?/Aug/11 -

Wanted to do the Zmutt but the approach from the Hornli was out. Approach as hard work in v hot conditions as you can see the hut all the way up pretty much. left hut at 3.30 and summited at just before 8 - tried to avoid all the fixed ropes/chains apart bfrom the ladder just below the summit. Descent took 5 hrs and then we found that the lift back from Plateau Rosa wa closed, so walked all the way back to Cervinia that night from Kl Matterhorn station! feet and knees compeltely shot!

Sir Stefan ??/2011 AltLd
stevev 05/Sep/10 2nd dnf

Turned back at Carrel Hut. Suffered big asthma problems on first day. Made it to the hut, but didn't really recover overnight.

chrissloan84 ?/Aug/10 -
with paul
Julli 19/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Had to turn back at 4100m due to one climber feeling sick

with Noora S.
Adi Hooper 18/Jul/10 AltLd

Left the Carrel Hut at 4.30am. Got to the Italian summit at 11.30am. Moving together all the time.

with Roger Ward
garethsteel ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Nigel R Lewis 14/Aug/09 AltLd
with Steve Kedward
Hidden 14/Aug/09 AltLd
AdamCB ?/Aug/09 -

With Rick Marchant, Tim Rickeard and Paul Warnock

colenn 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

First known ascent of the ridge that season.

with Peter Britton, Aidan Ennis
aennis 04/Jul/09 -
with Peter Britton, Colm Ennis
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/08 -
with Byron Buck
Mark Walter ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Becwith
Byronius Maximus ?/Aug/08 -

Fantastic route and perfect weather

benclimbing ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome climb. Loads of fixed gear including a ladder! Didn't place a single peice of gear. Descended the Hornli Ridge. Downclimbed the whole way

Nicos 26/Jul/07 Lead O/S
tom.e 14/Jul/06 -

Turned back about 150m short of the summit.

with Charlie Everett
lost.arrow 10/Jul/06 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/05 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/04 AltLd dnf
tom.e ?/Aug/04 Solo dnf

Got to the hut, snowed overnight so we retreated.

with Charlie Everett
ashpreston ??/2004 AltLd dnf

Evacuated by helicopter from Carrel after four nights.

Hidden 12/Aug/03 -
stugreen75 ?/Jul/02 AltLd

Up the Italian and down the Hornli from the Carrel.

Hidden 01/Sep/99 Lead O/S
gallonj ??/1996 -

Up Italian Ridge - down Hornli ridge

Hidden ?/Aug/91 -
Tim Sparrow ?/Aug/91 -

Wore KSBs, no crampons, single axe unused. Had a hoot. Parachutists dropping into Breuil viewed fro summit - one parachute failure and emergency chute descent! LS went up this, down Hornli, up Zmutt, down this all in one day.

with Chris D
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
atthedropofahat, Knut, simonf, Hidden, buddha1369, Zoe Cockburn, ashpreston, NeilOMalley, gavinpeach, Dougbart, Swampi, gravity, Doug miller, Sam Husband, Hidden, j4kub, Hidden, brianrunner, Hidden, Ian Archer, jon clayton, jasoncash, Poco Loco, tim91, stevev, Hidden, Hidden, bsavage, Hidden, Tom Stoddart, liamo333, Hidden, NickBrown, playboater, Hidden, Hidden, Chris Sansum
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set