South-West (Italian or Lion) Ridge*** AD+
[Just below Matterhorn summit, 2 kb]Many prefer the slightly harder climbing here to the chaos of the Hornli ridge.
Bich/Carrel Jul/1865

Photo: Just below Matterhorn summit © Dan724
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 38 logbooks, and on 36 wishlists.

Very snowy conditions, and a distinct lack of pro. Lots of knife edge ridges, and winds gusting up to about 60. Exciting! An excellent route.
Sean_J - AltLd - 22/Aug/14 with Tim

BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Dan

Chose this hoping to avoid the 'chaos of the Hornli ridge', however, we still encountered plenty of punters. At one point a guy abseiled onto the shoulders of me and 2 guides. He then became frenzied and repeatedly kicked us the shoulders with his crampons before jumping onto my rope. Overall there was a generally hysterical atmosphere on the mountain. This was down to the large numbers of guided teams who turned back due to ice on the route and abseiled n top of other teams, getting ropes tangled and dropping rocks. The Zinalrothorn was much better and the people we encountered more friendly and considerate. The fixed ropes are indeed a shame and actually make some of the climbing harder as they are blocking the holds.
Dan724 - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Ben Ryle

Michael - 26/Jul/13

jcw - 2013

Great climbing ruined by fixed ropes. Get to the Carrel hut early if you want a bed. It was full be about 1pm when we climbed. Route finding can be tricky in the dark so don't start too early. That said if you are going down the Hornli (which is tedious and exceptionally long) don't underestimate the time required to get down to the lift (7h ish).
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Misha Gopaul

Brilliant ascent, couldn't have done it without Bradders. Descent brutal, three times as long. Had an unplanned bivvy. Glad I bought the bivvy bag, unlike Bradders!
Jim Brownlow - AltLd - 20/Aug/11 with Bradley Morrell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11

What a mountain! Descended Hornli. Been on list for ages. Bit annoying to have all the fixed ropes there, Zmutt probably a nicer experience overall.
Oliver Sherman - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Paul Mann

Wanted to do the Zmutt but the approach from the Hornli was out. Approach as hard work in v hot conditions as you can see the hut all the way up pretty much. left hut at 3.30 and summited at just before 8 - tried to avoid all the fixed ropes/chains apart bfrom the ladder just below the summit. Descent took 5 hrs and then we found that the lift back from Plateau Rosa wa closed, so walked all the way back to Cervinia that night from Kl Matterhorn station! feet and knees compeltely shot!
Cham32 - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

Turned back at Carrel Hut. Suffered big asthma problems on first day. Made it to the hut, but didn't really recover overnight.
stevev - 2nd dnf - 05/Sep/10

chrissloan84 - Aug/10 with paul

Had to turn back at 4100m due to one climber feeling sick
Julli - Lead dnf - 19/Jul/10 with Noora S.

Left the Carrel Hut at 4.30am. Got to the Italian summit at 11.30am. Moving together all the time.
Adi Hooper - AltLd - 18/Jul/10 with Roger Ward

garethsteel - AltLd O/S - Sep/09

Nigel R Lewis - AltLd - 14/Aug/09 with Steve Kedward

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Aug/09

With Rick Marchant, Tim Rickeard and Paul Warnock
AdamCB - Aug/09

First known ascent of the ridge that season.
colenn - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Peter Britton, Aidan Ennis

aennis - 04/Jul/09 with Peter Britton, Colm Ennis

Guy Wilson - Aug/08 with Byron Buck

Mark Walter - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Steve Becwith

Fantastic route and perfect weather
Byronius Maximus - Aug/08 with Guy Wilson

Awesome climb. Loads of fixed gear including a ladder! Didn't place a single peice of gear. Descended the Hornli Ridge. Downclimbed the whole way
benclimbing - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/07 with rich howels

Turned back about 150m short of the summit.
tom.e - 14/Jul/06 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - Lead - Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jul/05

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/Aug/04

Got to the hut, snowed overnight so we retreated.
tom.e - Solo dnf - Aug/04 with Charlie Everett

Evacuated by helicopter from Carrel after four nights.
ashpreston - AltLd dnf - 2004

Hidden - 12/Aug/03

Up the Italian and down the Hornli from the Carrel.
stugreen75 - AltLd - Jul/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/99

Up Italian Ridge - down Hornli ridge
gallonj - 1996

ChrisJD - Aug/91 with TimSp

Wore KSBs, no crampons, single axe unused. Had a hoot. Parachutists dropping into Breuil viewed fro summit - one parachute failure and emergency chute descent! LS went up this, down Hornli, up Zmutt, down this all in one day.
Tim Sparrow - Aug/91 with Chris D

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Knut, simonf, buddha1369, Zoe Cockburn, ashpreston, NeilOMalley, gavinpeach, Dougbart, Swampi, gravity, Doug miller, Sam Husband, j4kub, brianrunner, Ian Archer, jon clayton, jasoncash, Poco Loco, tim91, stevev, dave657, bsavage, Tom Stoddart, liamo333, NickBrown, playboater, Chris Sansum

Voting
Total votes cast 7
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easy D-0 of 1
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AD+1 of 1
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Style of ascent

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dnf