Gormenghast*** E1 5a
[On the First belay of Gormenghast, 3 kb]53m, 3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.
L Brown, A L Atkinson 26/Mar/1960

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Preston Mountaineering Club First Ascents, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs.

Photo: On the First belay of Gormenghast © Karl Walton
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This climb is in 193 logbooks, and on 44 wishlists.

Awesome climb! Lives up to its reputation, combined pitch 1 and 2 into one. Recommend belaying at the holly tree rather than at the flakes. Went for the original route, easy climbing but run out.
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/15 with Dot

Ran P1 and 2 together which seems sensible if you go for the bold option like we did. Belayed at the holly which is now 95% dead (good wire backs up). No sign of any peregrines. Great route.
AndrewP - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/15 with Daniel Bryan

DanielBryan - 2nd - 05/Jun/15 with Andrew Peterken

P2. Climbed main crack/groove directly, 5b: harder but safer. Pumped. Clipped something in situ. Exiting the groove was a relief.
lorens holm - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/15 with Oscar

p1, 2 as one pitch took original route on pitch 2 crack was wet, very run out with positive holds..lovely! pitch 2 belay one of my favourites
scott quinn - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/15 with Al

Scooter Young - 2015

phil64 - Lead - 2015

Pitch 1+3. Not a great belay on Pitch 1, v.rusty peg. And bold at the start of pitch 2.
ollyroberts - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/14 with Esther Seddon

esther - AltLd - Sep/14

first and second (crack) pitches climbed in one pitch
benka - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/14 with steve h

Steven Carter - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Trythallj

ned_85 - AltLd - 11/Jul/14 with Chris Gudgeon

P1 & 3. First 2 pitches mediocre but top pitch brilliant - worth doing just for that!
Gudge - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/14 with Neil Davies

P1 & P2 only as my seconder took a swing at the start of P2 and demanded to be lowered off. P2 is serious but awesome. Route is in great condition and no peregrine at the Holly Tree. Go do it!
BigTone - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/14

Tim lead the bold pillar. I went direct up the crack. couldn't really feel the quality this time.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 18/May/14 with Tim Clarke

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14 with Zac Poulton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14

westaway - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Imelda Neale

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/14

Hidden - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

James Thacker - 2014

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 29/Sep/13 with Adam

Great climbing. although not difficult serious in places. sustained interest for every pitch and hold appear when you want them as well as gear (for the most part, each pitch does have serious sections. hence the E1 grade)
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Neil Griffiths

NickJH - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with LiamG

cat22 - 2nd - 14/Jul/13 with Mike

Original route on P2 - quite necky and obviously much less popular than the crack!
GPN - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Annette

Straight up crack on 2nd pitch. Ace route.
net - 2nd - 14/Jul/13 with George

I lead first and third. One tiny nut on first pitch which fell out before the belay anyway. Crux pitch good, hard bit safe. Top pitch the best!! Swimming in river after, painful!!!!
Matt Rowat - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Parky

Hidden - Apr/13

captain - 2013

Lessworkmoreclimbing - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Did in 2 pitches. Led p2. Nice route, nice weather!
AJM - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Simon Goldman

steve prior - Lead dog - Aug/12 with Roger C

1st pitch saturated. Feet shot off with no warning & decked out on my head after RP failed! 2nd rope clipped to chockstone just went tight as I landed. Led it OK on 2nd attempt and andy led next 2 pitches in fine style as I started to feel rather sore by pitch 3. Kids, if you're reading this, Always wear a helmet! AWESOME ROUTE!!
marcoleptic - AltLd β - 06/Jul/12 with Andy Short

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 30/May/12 with Bern Hardman

Hidden - 27/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/12

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

JonG - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Stone Idle - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Superb Autumn weather led all pitches.
Tony Holdsworth - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Nick Mitchell

We both really enjoyed this. Great route. Ran pitches 1 and 2 together - seems sensible given the bold start of P2. Well worth E1
gforce - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Emma

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/11

Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - Aug/11

benclimbing - AltLd dog - Aug/11 with Dave Latimer

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 06/Jun/11

First E1 Lead!!
chripstine - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Polly

Exodus - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Tim

GuyM - AltLd - 01/May/11 with will

WB - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Guy

Flippin brillient! Led the 2nd pitch, which was pretty bold for me. Beautiful climbing all the way up.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Lee Wales

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Kris & Mark

myoung - AltLd - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Superb, a glorious day. we could see no birds nesting on the crag. checked BMC and Frcc first
petegunn - Lead - 24/Mar/11 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/11

Totally awesome!
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

alkira - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Johnny Baker - 2011 with Matt Helliker

Hidden - 2011

Dave Rumney - 03/Sep/10

Dave Rumney - AltLd - Sep/10 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - 22/Aug/10

Peter Reynolds - AltLd - Aug/10 with tom o'shea

jl - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Penny

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with harri melhuish

with andy mac. Led 5b groove way on pitch 2
mattbaird - AltLd - 20/Jun/10

Wimped out of pitch 2.
Nigel Coe - Lead dnf - 30/May/10 with Alan Walmsley

Me pitches 2 and 3. Went up the 5b groove, felt hard!
JWB - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Jon Gill

i lead the first slightly wet pitch which was quite easy just rather run out.altogether a great route!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/10 with john beardmore

RachelP - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Duncan, Chris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09

J1PEF - AltLd - Jul/09

Great route - ran first two pitches together and went the run out juggy way, worth E1 5a I reckon overall.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 29/May/09 with Rik

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09 with Chris Michalak

Hidden - Solo - 21/Apr/09

did the 5b crack very strenuous indeed
Diggler - AltLd dog - 18/Apr/09 with jonah

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Mar/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Wet on all cracks...
troutbeck - AltLd dnf - 03/Oct/08 with A.M.

Got all 3 pitches, 1st was wet and felt tricky as gear is minmal on wet holds = worrying, second pitch out left on jugs feels ace and run out.. brilliant. third pitch continues to gve superb but straight forward climbing all the way to the end. Superb route! never too hard, prob only HVS, the 5a moves felt soft.
Mattyk - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Dom and Jude

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with maddy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/Jun/08

Thought it was ok...nothing special...
Christian Beck - AltLd - Jun/08

sgl - AltLd O/S - 10/May/08 with viv

Did the 5b(top end?) variation on the 2nd pitch. Top pitch is quite improbable, looks hard and exposed but is easy 5a and great climbing. Good route.
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 21/Oct/07 with simon blythe

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/07

Found coming up the groove difficult. An excellent top pitch.
Will Hunt - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/07 with Tom Ripley

John Kettle - 02/Aug/07

ewen - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/07 with the kettle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 29/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

I lead the crux pitch went the classice mantal self way don't fall off. excelent
Dale - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with johny

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/07

Hidden - AltLd - 04/May/07

Johann - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Tim Nichol

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Callum Coldwell-Storry

Ist pitch, poor gear, 2nd pitch, good gear up the crack but very steep, 3rd pitch, fantastic. Gear galore, exposure and nice moves. Excellent route.
Zoomer - 2nd - 25/Aug/06 with Paul Chiddle

fizzy_elephant - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/06 with stu

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/05

mike lawrence? - 01/Jun/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

with Brian F
alasdair19 - 2005

Lead pitches 1 and 3
PenJD - Lead O/S - 31/May/04 with Jon Ascroft

Lead crux second pitch taking unprotected mantleshelves to the left. Excellent outing all round
Cragrat Rich - AltLd O/S - May/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04

Urgles - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Fiend

Neil Ireson - Lead - Jul/03 with Jane

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/03

Started up groove, fell off, retreated and then led the bold wall which was a lot easier, and a lot bolder.
chrishedgehog - Lead dog - 26/May/03 with Malin, Alex S, Joe Thompson

Daniel Armitage - AltLd O/S - Apr/03 with Paul Armitage

towdman - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/03 with Daniel Armitage

Hidden - Lead - Oct/02

Hidden - Mar/02

Hidden - 2002

bullybones - 2002

Chris Wright - Lead O/S - Aug/01

Grezza - AltLd O/S - Jul/00 with Paul E

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

simon cox - 2000

RobSimmo - 2nd dog - 04/Aug/97 with Jon Berry

kato'sdad - Lead - 04/Aug/97 with Rob Simpson

phardman - 20/Jul/97

kp64zl - Lead - Mar/97 with Simon M

I tried this in 1976 with Billy. A wierd but wonderful climb and probably deserves the upgrade.
Ian Jones - Lead β - 1997 with Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - AltLd - 1997

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/96

Andy Say - Lead - 15/Jun/96

rurp - Lead O/S - 1996

Last hard rock route in the lakes
phardman - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/95 with Jon Bibby

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/94

Lead P1
Mick King - AltLd - 29/Aug/93 with Simon Walsh

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/93

biggianthead - Jun/93 with C

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/93

craig h - AltLd O/S - Feb/91 with Luke Steer

Hidden - Lead - 1991

Nick Rundall - AltLd O/S - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

Via the unprotected mantleshelves to the left and the huge nest finish.
babymoac - Lead - 09/Sep/89 with Howard

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/89 with Angel Vila

BigHairyIan - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/89 with Tufty (Stewart Moffat)

Hidden - Apr/89

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 07/Apr/88 with Bill Cox, David

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/87 with brian jones

sadams - Solo - 26/Jul/87 with Guy Townsend

Fell off 2nd pitch after completing the mantels resulting in a long, painful, head first dive into the slab below. Broken jaw, missing teeth and many bruises. I was very lucky. Graded HVS then!
DaveAtkinson - Lead - May/87

mikej - AltLd - 14/Sep/86 with Mike Byles

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Richard Weller - Lead - 06/Sep/85 with Tim Livesey

With Paul Cronin and Jeff Nelson
steveboote - Lead - 1985 with Paul cronin

MikeYouCanClimb - AltLd - 27/Aug/84 with Adam

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 17/Jun/84 with Sheila Bruce Lockhart

mark-abz - Lead - Jun/84 with Andy W

very cold
uphillnow - Lead - 29/Apr/84 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

Hidden - Lead - 1984

TonyF - Lead O/S - Jun/83 with Paul Harrison

Bob - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/83 with al phizacklea

Date may be out by a year or so either way !
Robmwatt - AltLd - 1983 with Gaz Morgan

Hammy - AltLd - 09/Jul/82 with Fai Kwong

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 02/May/81 with Geoff Barker

Quite a decent route on a dull day away from the popular haunts.
KRB - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/80 with Gerry Jewson

robinsi197 - 1980 with Barbara

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/79

GeoffG - AltLd - Apr/78

Mantleshelves interesting, especially as no peg runner. Martin led the improbable but superb direct finish.
rogerskews - AltLd - 02/Sep/77 with Martin Coward

petemeads - Lead - 06/Aug/77

Pedro50 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/77 with Steve White

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/77

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/77

Mike Owen - 22/Jul/76 with Pete White

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jul/76

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead O/S - 1975 with Will Walker

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
GrahamUney, iksander, Mowglee, ClimberJimmyB, alexanderjwatts, ollie1, gav, David Woods, The Pulsing Motorik of Neu!, hutchay, Alan100, simon pape, bobpilgrem, JonmapDL, stevorobs3, Phoebus, peter.ravenscroft27, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Peter Metcalfe, sgl0jd, oliverk, r_o_b_h2, kim.mulji, Gav Fance, Michael Hood, AsleepOnBelay, Dan Lane, stimpey, Andy S, simonfife

Total votes cast 117
hard E20 of 41
E20 of 41
easy E20 of 41
hard E11 of 41
E133 of 41
easy E14 of 41
hard HVS3 of 41
HVS0 of 41
easy HVS0 of 41
hard 5b0 of 39
5b3 of 39
easy 5b8 of 39
hard 5a13 of 39
5a12 of 39
easy 5a3 of 39
hard 4c0 of 39
4c0 of 39
easy 4c0 of 39
3 Stars33 of 37
2 Stars3 of 37
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat