Cumbria > Heron Crag, Eskdale >
 
Gormenghast*** E1 5a

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[On the First belay of Gormenghast, 3 kb]53m, 3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.
L Brown, A L Atkinson 26/Mar/1960

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Preston Mountaineering Club First Ascents, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs.

Photo: On the First belay of Gormenghast © Karl Walton
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 171 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

Steven Carter - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Trythallj

nedly - AltLd - 11/Jul/14 with Chris Gudgeon

P1 & 3. First 2 pitches mediocre but top pitch brilliant - worth doing just for that!
Gudge - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/14 with Neil Davies

P1 & P2 only as my seconder took a swing at the start of P2 and demanded to be lowered off. P2 is serious but awesome. Route is in great condition and no peregrine at the Holly Tree. Go do it!
BigTone - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/14

Tim lead the bold pillar. I went direct up the crack. couldn't really feel the quality this time.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 18/May/14 with Tim Clarke

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14 with Zac Poulton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14

westaway - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Imelda Neale

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/14

mike mo - 2014

brockers - 2014

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 29/Sep/13 with Adam

Great climbing. although not difficult serious in places. sustained interest for every pitch and hold appear when you want them as well as gear (for the most part, each pitch does have serious sections. hence the E1 grade)
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Neil Griffiths

NickJH - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with LiamG

cat22 - 2nd - 14/Jul/13 with Mike

Original route on P2 - quite necky and obviously much less popular than the crack!
GPN - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Annette

Straight up crack on 2nd pitch. Ace route.
net - 2nd - 14/Jul/13 with George

I lead first and third. One tiny nut on first pitch which fell out before the belay anyway. Crux pitch good, hard bit safe. Top pitch the best!! Swimming in river after, painful!!!!
Matt Rowat - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Parky

Hidden - Apr/13

captain - 2013

Lessworkmoreclimbing - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Did in 2 pitches. Led p2. Nice route, nice weather!
AJM - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Simon Goldman

1st pitch saturated. Feet shot off with no warning & decked out on my head after RP failed! 2nd rope clipped to chockstone just went tight as I landed. Led it OK on 2nd attempt and andy led next 2 pitches in fine style as I started to feel rather sore by pitch 3. Kids, if you're reading this, Always wear a helmet! AWESOME ROUTE!!
marcoleptic - AltLd β - 06/Jul/12 with Andy Short

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 30/May/12 with Bern Hardman

Hidden - 27/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/12

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

JonG - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Superb Autumn weather led all pitches.
Tony Holdsworth - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Nick Mitchell

We both really enjoyed this. Great route. Ran pitches 1 and 2 together - seems sensible given the bold start of P2. Well worth E1
gforce - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Emma

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/11

Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 06/Jun/11

First E1 Lead!!
chripstine - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Polly

Exodus - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Tim

GuyM - AltLd - 01/May/11 with will

awesome
WB - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Guy

Flippin brillient! Led the 2nd pitch, which was pretty bold for me. Beautiful climbing all the way up.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Lee Wales

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Kris & Mark

myoung - AltLd - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Superb, a glorious day. we could see no birds nesting on the crag. checked BMC and Frcc first
petegunn - Lead - 24/Mar/11 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/11

Totally awesome!
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

alkira - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Johnny Baker - 2011 with Matt Helliker

Hidden - 2011

Dave Rumney - 03/Sep/10

Dave Rumney - AltLd - Sep/10 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - 22/Aug/10

Peter Reynolds - AltLd - Aug/10 with tom o'shea

jl - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Penny

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with harri melhuish

with andy mac. Led 5b groove way on pitch 2
mattbaird - AltLd - 20/Jun/10

Wimped out of pitch 2.
Nigel Coe - Lead dnf - 30/May/10 with Alan Walmsley

Me pitches 2 and 3. Went up the 5b groove, felt hard!
JWB - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Jon Gill

i lead the first slightly wet pitch which was quite easy just rather run out.altogether a great route!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/10 with john beardmore

RachelP - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Duncan, Chris

Very steep, 1st pich was really wet which made to feel a lot harder than it probably was. Was fairly boxed after climbing Jean Jeania previous day, great route.
Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Steve Pugh

J1PEF - AltLd - Jul/09

Great route - ran first two pitches together and went the run out juggy way, worth E1 5a I reckon overall.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 29/May/09 with Rik

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09 with Chris Michalak

Hidden - Solo - 21/Apr/09

did the 5b crack very strenuous indeed
Diggler - AltLd dog - 18/Apr/09 with jonah

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Mar/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Wet on all cracks...
troutbeck - AltLd dnf - 03/Oct/08 with A.M.

Got all 3 pitches, 1st was wet and felt tricky as gear is minmal on wet holds = worrying, second pitch out left on jugs feels ace and run out.. brilliant. third pitch continues to gve superb but straight forward climbing all the way to the end. Superb route! never too hard, prob only HVS, the 5a moves felt soft.
Mattyk - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Dom and Jude

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with maddy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/Jun/08

Thought it was ok...nothing special...
Christian Beck - AltLd - Jun/08

sgl - AltLd O/S - 10/May/08 with viv

Did the 5b(top end?) variation on the 2nd pitch. Top pitch is quite improbable, looks hard and exposed but is easy 5a and great climbing. Good route.
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 21/Oct/07 with simon blythe

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/07

Found coming up the groove difficult. An excellent top pitch.
Will Hunt - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/07 with Tom Ripley

John Kettle - 02/Aug/07

ewen - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/07 with the kettle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 29/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

I lead the crux pitch went the classice mantal self way don't fall off. excelent
Dale - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with johny

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/07

Hidden - AltLd - 04/May/07

Johann - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Tim Nichol

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Callum Coldwell-Storry

Ist pitch, poor gear, 2nd pitch, good gear up the crack but very steep, 3rd pitch, fantastic. Gear galore, exposure and nice moves. Excellent route.
Zoomer - 2nd - 25/Aug/06 with Paul Chiddle

fizzy_elephant - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/06 with stu

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/05

mike lawrence? - 01/Jun/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

with Brian F
alasdair19 - 2005

Lead pitches 1 and 3
PenJD - Lead O/S - 31/May/04 with Jon Ascroft

Lead crux second pitch taking unprotected mantleshelves to the left. Excellent outing all round
Cragrat Rich - AltLd O/S - May/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/04

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Fiend

Neil Ireson - Lead - Jul/03 with Jane

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/03

Started up groove, fell off, retreated and then led the bold wall which was a lot easier, and a lot bolder.
chrishedgehog - Lead dog - 26/May/03 with Malin, Alex S, Joe Thompson

Daniel Armitage - AltLd O/S - Apr/03 with Paul Armitage

towdman - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/03 with Daniel Armitage

Hidden - Lead - Oct/02

Hidden - 2002

bullybones - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/01

Grezza - AltLd O/S - Jul/00 with Paul E

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

simon cox - 2000

RobSimmo - 2nd dog - 04/Aug/97 with Jon Berry

kato'sdad - Lead - 04/Aug/97 with Rob Simpson

phardman - 20/Jul/97

kp64zl - Lead - Mar/97 with Simon M

I tried this in 1976 with Billy. A wierd but wonderful climb and probably deserves the upgrade.
Ian Jones - Lead β - 1997 with Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - AltLd - 1997

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/96

Andy Say - Lead - 15/Jun/96

rurp - Lead O/S - 1996

Last hard rock route in the lakes
phardman - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/95 with Jon Bibby

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/94

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/93

biggianthead - Jun/93 with C

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/93

craig h - AltLd O/S - Feb/91 with Luke Steer

Attempted with Alan (1989)
PeteCheung - Lead - 1991 with Pete Butler

Nick Rundall - AltLd O/S - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

Via the unprotected mantleshelves to the left and the huge nest finish.
babymoac - Lead - 09/Sep/89 with Howard

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - Jun/89 with Angel Vila

BigHairyIan - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/89 with Tufty (Stewart Moffat)

Hidden - Apr/89

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 07/Apr/88 with Bill Cox, David

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/87 with brian jones

sadams - Solo - 26/Jul/87 with Guy Townsend

Fell off 2nd pitch after completing the mantels resulting in a long, painful, head first dive into the slab below. Broken jaw, missing teeth and many bruises. I was very lucky. Graded HVS then!
DaveAtkinson - Lead - May/87

mikej - AltLd - 14/Sep/86 with Mike Byles

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Richard Weller - Lead - 06/Sep/85 with Tim Livesey

MikeYouCanClimb - AltLd - 27/Aug/84 with Adam

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 17/Jun/84 with Sheila Bruce Lockhart

mark-abz - Lead - Jun/84 with Andy W

very cold
David Smith - Lead - 29/Apr/84 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Bob - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/83 with al phizacklea

Hammy - AltLd - 09/Jul/82 with Fai Kwong

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 02/May/81 with Geoff Barker

Quite a decent route on a dull day away from the popular haunts.
KRB - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/80 with Gerry Jewson

robinsi197 - 1980 with Barbara

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/79

GeoffG - AltLd - Apr/78

Mantleshelves interesting, especially as no peg runner. Martin led the improbable but superb direct finish.
rogerskews - AltLd - 02/Sep/77 with Martin Coward

petemeads - Lead - 06/Aug/77

Pedro50 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/77 with Steve White

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/77

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/77

Mike Owen - 22/Jul/76 with Pete White

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jul/76

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead O/S - 1975 with Will Walker

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu!, hutchay, Alan100, simon pape, Hidden, bobpilgrem, JonmapDL, stevorobs3, Phoebus, peter.ravenscroft27, Phil Ingle, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Hidden, Peter Metcalfe, sgl0jd, oliverk, Hidden, r_o_b_h2, Hidden, kim.mulji, Gav Fance, Hidden, Michael Hood, Hidden, Hidden, jeffsheard, Dan Lane, Hidden, stimpey, Hidden, Andy S, Hidden, simonfife

Voting
Total votes cast 106
hard E20 of 37
E20 of 37
easy E20 of 37
hard E11 of 37
E129 of 37
easy E14 of 37
hard HVS3 of 37
HVS0 of 37
easy HVS0 of 37
hard 5b0 of 36
5b2 of 36
easy 5b7 of 36
hard 5a13 of 36
5a11 of 36
easy 5a3 of 36
hard 4c0 of 36
4c0 of 36
easy 4c0 of 36
3 Stars30 of 33
2 Stars3 of 33
1 Star0 of 33
0 Stars0 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 171 (1.2%)
Lead45 of 171 (26.3%)
Followed11 of 171 (6.4%)
Alt Leads78 of 171 (45.6%)
Unknown35 of 171 (20.5%)

'Climbed'87 of 171 (50.9%)
clean O/S75 of 171 (43.9%)
clean β2 of 171 (1.2%)
clean rpt2 of 171 (1.2%)
dogged3 of 171 (1.8%)
dnf2 of 171 (1.2%)