Rockfax Description
18m. The beckoning crack-line gives a great route; pumpy but with good gear, and well worth calling in for. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The central crack. Hardest at the start. Well protected and with good rest points to place gear.

Dogwood 26/Sep Lead O/S

Ace, aside from dropping my wires half way up

aleckirby 04/Sep 2nd O/S
HP9 24/Jul TR
with Derek Dan, Avi
Tony Roberts 21/Jul TR dnf

Too tired for the opening moves.

bethoates 21/Jul 2nd O/S
MartinJWood 21/Jul Lead O/S
Hollie Prince 21/Jul 2nd dog
alexcummings95 13/May TR O/S
bradley pratt 20/Mar Lead rpt
Tom McCabe 16/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Finally got myself on an hvs lead! Pumpy, even with a good rest halfway, and take care with cams in soft slimy rock!! ab'ed for gear

Henry Brett 16/Nov/14 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/14 Lead RP
MartinJWood 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Polished at the bottom. Mud on shoes doesn't help! Gear thinner than I'd expected. good large cam just over half way gave some reassurance for the run out!

Roberttaylor 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Isolde
andy_e 08/Aug/14 TR rpt

Top rope solo

MikeLell 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Cracking route! VS 4c.

with Emma Parkinson
Matthew Robinson 10/Jul/14 Solo
with shunt
stub1990 09/Jul/14 Lead
Gabe Oliver 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
vertigo 12/Jun/14 TR RP

Pretty damp and dirty, and definitely in need of some traffic!

with Dash
Dandyman 27/May/14 2nd dog
with Aidan Summerell
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead
BJones 07/May/14 Lead O/S
ChrisLilli2903 07/May/14 Lead O/S
chris smith 08/Apr/14 Lead O/S
chris smith 08/Apr/14 Lead O/S
RossCallender 17/Mar/14 TR
Adam.May ??/2014 TR
watson.b 03/Nov/13 TR O/S
SomeClimbingGuy ?/Nov/13 2nd
peterhubbard 17/Oct/13 2nd
with Conrad
Hidden 17/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with S.O.C, Phillip Wadsworth
John Lavelle 15/Aug/13 TR rpt
with Becky, Corey
David Cowley 08/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Malcolm Watson
Hidden 01/Aug/13 TR rpt
Hidden 25/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Lunar25 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kat
stouffer 17/Jul/13 TR
Hidden 16/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jun/13 2nd
kyaizawa 03/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 17/May/13 2nd
kyaizawa 17/May/13 Lead O/S

Pumpy but never too hard (5b where??). And not as sustained as expected - there are definitely at least two decent rests on the route. And it swallows gear.

lcullum7 17/May/13 2nd O/S
BassMad 07/May/13 TR dnf
with Vicky Rowell
Carl Ingham 07/May/13 TR dnf

Try as I may i could not get past the crux at he start of the climb. My left hip prevents me gaining the hight on the foot placement.

with David Winter
Dom Cordner 05/May/13 2nd O/S
with Sam Wimpenny
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead RP
MajorBallzup 05/May/13 TR O/S
MollyAnne 04/May/13 TR β
Hidden 02/May/13 TR rpt
Hidden 02/May/13 TR dnf
Alpenglow 02/May/13 Lead O/S

Nice route, pumpy in a couple of places but holds generally good. Little dusty.

with Owen
andy_e 06/Apr/13 TR O/S
SamWimpenny ??/2013 Lead O/S
alexm198 14/Nov/12 TR O/S
tmawer 02/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Jaime Robertson
Hidden 30/Sep/12 TR O/S
melmyo 23/Sep/12 TR
with John E
Hidden 23/Sep/12 TR
Gareth Marshall 09/Sep/12 TR β
with Andrew Callcott
Hidden 09/Aug/12 Lead β
Hidden 09/Aug/12 2nd dog
kennyne9 08/Aug/12 TR rpt
with Gillian Newman
Chriswallis2 24/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Anna
Johny Stubbs 10/Jul/12 Solo

So happy with this one. Best climb yet! Heart beating a bit after final pull-up. Self belay.

tristan_kobayashi 24/Jun/12 TR O/S

relatively difficult entry section, gets easier as you go up. conditions were very wet!

Hidden 14/Jun/12 TR
s.scott 13/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Jun/12 Solo
smollett 24/May/12 TR
with paul
kennyne9 22/May/12 TR β
with Gillian Newman
jamieconnolly 29/Apr/12 2nd
barni 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Proff
alanrsv 09/Apr/12 TR
with Josh Hall
Hidden 25/Mar/12 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/12 TR dnf
ruffnek 17/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Philip Howard
matthewrech 26/Feb/12 TR
with Jonathan Rech
pauliegigawatts 17/Feb/12 TR rpt
Drew(yes im magic) 22/Jan/12 TR
with Brad Woodlands, Sam Oliver
s.scott 21/Jan/12 TR
cballard ??/2012 -
Hidden 27/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead dog
jim6002 04/Sep/11 TR dnf

Pumped out on last crux

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 23/Aug/11 TR O/S
with Stu Ferguson
philipstead 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
samoliver01 17/Aug/11 Lead β
Drew(yes im magic) 15/Aug/11 2nd

Alot of arm strength required for the first undergrab.

aleckirby 28/Jul/11 TR O/S
Julian Laidler 24/Jul/11 TR O/S

pumpy , but what a nice climb, enjoyed it !

ablackett 06/Jul/11 TR
with Andy Wallace
lindsam 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Will C
Hidden 29/Jun/11 2nd rpt
RossKirtley 13/Jun/11 2nd

Don't fall in the swamp!

Dervey 07/Jun/11 Lead
Simnel 30/May/11 TR
with Tony S
Anthony1 30/May/11 TR
with Hannah L, John L
samoliver01 20/May/11 TR O/S
jonny taylor 18/May/11 TR rpt
Hidden 12/May/11 Lead
KevB 06/May/11 Lead
with Tony P
alan1234 05/May/11 Lead rpt

A classic!

jonti ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with simon ward
ed.burton ?/May/11 Lead
ianjfsutcliffe 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Tactical assault; down climbed to rest and depump before second crux.

with Drew
Higher Primate 28/Apr/11 2nd dog

3 attempts to beat the crux. Pumped from then on.

with Cam Stephen, Ian Sutcliffe
cmars89 24/Apr/11 Lead
samoliver01 23/Apr/11 TR
KevB 20/Apr/11 Solo

Self belay

djromberg ??/2011 -
jamieconnolly ??/2011 Lead
robertmctague ??/2011 Lead
Pohil ??/2011 -
trueuk1 17/Oct/10 TR

hard start, took 3 attemts

mikecollins 17/Oct/10 TR
with Laura D
Hidden 11/Oct/10 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Sep/10 Lead rpt
JohnTheMountainGoat 14/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Will Coombs
Hidden 14/Sep/10 2nd O/S
JohnTheMountainGoat 13/Sep/10 2nd
with Rory Woods
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 25/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 18/Aug/10 TR O/S
ccraigg22 17/Aug/10 2nd
pmurdy 17/Aug/10 Lead O/S

First HVS.

Hidden 17/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Solo
Hidden 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
SiRees 26/Jul/10 TR O/S
with Sally Chisolm, Matt Lambert, Mike Collins
Matt.L 26/Jul/10 TR RP
Kane L. 25/Jul/10 TR O/S
Kane L. 25/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Kane L. 25/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
alan1234 19/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Jun/10 TR O/S
Chriswallis2 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
maggie505 18/May/10 2nd
with Ian Norman
Hidden 14/May/10 Solo rpt
J1PEF 13/May/10 -
shouter 13/May/10 Lead
odox 12/May/10 Lead O/S

Nice route, jugs all the way up.

with Rob Clark
Hidden 10/May/10 TR O/S
tom.ireson 08/May/10 2nd O/S
with Henry Jenkins
gdsmnorm 05/May/10 Lead O/S

my firs HVS Onsited!! love this route!!

alan1234 28/Apr/10 TR O/S

A 'pumpy' but otherwise fairly easy climb.

Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
David Bulley 22/Apr/10 Lead rpt
mikecollins 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with cliff lowther
David Bulley 19/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Best climb in the quarry IMO. Don't think it's 5b, book said 5a. Still worth a climb! Has good gear all the way and good rest positions.

Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
MarkDavies36 ??/2010 -
ad82amr ??/2010 TR
with Craig, Amy
Maddison_dan ??/2010 Lead O/S
Aaronsim ??/2010 TR dog
shouter 15/Nov/09 TR
Peter White 10/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Adrian Anderson
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 17/Sep/09 Solo
andyhutch77 10/Sep/09 Lead
with Marc Tomlinson
markfairbank 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Not sure there is a 5b move, but was pretty pumped at the top despite afew good rests.

with Mick D
stoat 09/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Solo
Hidden 13/Aug/09 Lead RP
smollett ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with oliver
benj_d 10/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with slapperv6
jonny taylor 30/Jun/09 TR rpt

Pretty wet in places

andrew sandercock 19/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with robert sandercock
mikecollins 30/May/09 TR RP
with stg
mikecollins 07/May/09 2nd O/S
with stg
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
mikecollins 30/Apr/09 Lead RP

Didnt make it first time. The last overhang was tasty and bottled and came down. But got it second time

with stg
cat22 25/Apr/09 2nd
with Mike
Peter Holder 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Adam Rawlings
colin987 20/Apr/09 -
with Bruce Davies
jonny taylor 02/Apr/09 Lead rpt

Got it led at last

with Paul
Alex Winter 08/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with M.Green
Hidden 16/Aug/08 Lead
1918hasti 10/Aug/08 Lead
with Paul Bradwell
andyhutch77 19/Jun/08 Lead
with Marc Tomlinson
mikekeswick 01/Jun/08 TR O/S
with gill
gilldando 31/May/08 2nd

made it half way

with Mike
Mithral999 11/May/08 Lead

Lead on pre-place gear

John Haxon 11/May/08 2nd O/S
with Ian Angus, Ana Collado
hawkins321 05/May/08 Solo O/S
with rosie atkinson
hawkins321 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with rosie atkinson
ablackett 01/May/08 Lead RP
with Andy Wallace
john_boy_scottie1985 28/Apr/08 Lead dnf

Well this was an interesting evening. Old jackie boy set off to beat this route he started well! HE place what he thought was a good cam placement and proceeded to have a 4m run out at which point he fell, ripping out the friend and fall 30ft into a large muddy puddle, breaking his wrist in 3 places. what a WALLY LOL

with jak_005
barney800 ?/Apr/08 TR
jonny taylor ?/Apr/08 TR RP
with James B
jonny taylor ?/Apr/08 TR rpt
with Andy W, Andy B
tatosanti1984 11/Mar/08 2nd
with Ian
ablackett 08/Mar/08 TR RP

Got it done after 3 attempts, now you do it JimmyO

with Andy Wallace
Hidden ?/Jan/08 Lead O/S
phillipjohnson ??/2008 TR
PaulWillis1973 ??/2008 -
andrewtilney 14/Oct/07 TR O/S


with julie the wife
Jimmy O ?/Oct/07 TR dnf
Hidden 26/Sep/07 Solo rpt
Em66 28/Aug/07 TR O/S
with Toby
dazbarker 07/Aug/07 TR O/S

A good belay by Chrissie, spot on.

with Chrissie
dazbarker 05/Aug/07 Solo rpt

Used shunt as its a bit high.Didnt load it.

ShaunN 11/Jul/07 TR O/S
Heather Wallace ?/Jul/07 TR
dazbarker 27/Jun/07 TR dog
AlanDavis 27/Jun/07 TR dog
with Jonah
freerangecat 06/Jun/07 TR
with Kate
Brown 04/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
kevinknights 06/Jul/06 2nd dog

Hard start (campus followed by bum wedge)

with Ginger Tom
sasmojo 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Graeme Nicol 19/Jun/06 TR O/S

Superb! Start with knee jam

David Ballantyne ??/2006 TR O/S
storky 13/Jul/05 TR
melmyo ?/Sep/04 TR
Stone Muppet ??/2004 -
didntcomelast ?/May/02 -
antclark6381 01/Jan/00 Lead
Hidden 19/May/99 Lead
John Pickles 19/Apr/96 Lead O/S
Neil R 19/Jul/90 Lead
with Sharon
kato'sdad ??/1990 Lead
with Jerry Mattinson
steve taylor ?/Mar/86 TR
with ken
allmag 15/Aug/85 Solo

In spite of the mucky rock this route is a local classic. The mud slope finish feels about E3!!

Hidden ?/Apr/85 Lead
cornishmackem ?/Mar/82 -
Steve Crowe ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1980 -
telemark ??/1979 TR
beaumap ??/1977 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1972 -
with Ed Thompson
Lord of Starkness ??/1971 2nd
with Ed Thompson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matt Poole, speekingleesh, Hidden, samfayers, ccraigg22, beckywecky, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 30
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set