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Mangler*** HVS 5b

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[Just before the final over hang HVS 5b ***, 3 kb]The beckoning crack-line gives a great route; pumpy but with good gear, and well worth calling in for. © ROCKFAX
The central crack. Hardest at the start. Well protected and with good rest points to place gear.

Photo: Just before the final over hang HVS 5b *** © andyhutch77
View all 19 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 206 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

chris smith - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/14

chris smith - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/14

RossCallender - 17/Mar/14

Adam.May - TR - 2014

watson.b - TR O/S - 03/Nov/13

SomeClimbingGuy - 2nd - Nov/13

peterhubbard - 2nd - 17/Oct/13 with Conrad

Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13 with S.O.C, Phillip Wadsworth

John Lavelle - TR rpt - 15/Aug/13 with Becky, Corey

David Cowley - 2nd rpt - 08/Aug/13 with Malcolm Watson

Hidden - TR rpt - 01/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/13

Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Kat

stouffer - TR - 17/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/13

kyaizawa - Lead rpt - 03/Jun/13 with Matthew Keeves

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/13

Pumpy but never too hard (5b where??). And not as sustained as expected - there are definitely at least two decent rests on the route. And it swallows gear.
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 17/May/13 with Luke Cullum

lcullum7 - 2nd O/S - 17/May/13 with Ky Aizawa

BassMad - TR dnf - 07/May/13 with Vicky Rowell

Try as I may i could not get past the crux at he start of the climb. My left hip prevents me gaining the hight on the foot placement.
Carl Ingham - TR dnf - 07/May/13 with David Winter

Dom Cordner - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13 with Sam Wimpenny

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/May/13

MajorBallzup - TR O/S - 05/May/13

MollyAnne - TR β - 04/May/13

Hidden - TR rpt - 02/May/13

Hidden - TR dnf - 02/May/13

Nice route, pumpy in a couple of places but holds generally good. Little dusty.
blackreaver - Lead O/S - 02/May/13 with Owen

andy_e - TR O/S - 06/Apr/13

SamWimpenny - Lead O/S - 2013

alexm198 - TR O/S - 14/Nov/12 with Ed Cromwell

tmawer - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/12 with Jaime Robertson

Hidden - TR O/S - 30/Sep/12

melmyo - TR - 23/Sep/12 with John E

Hidden - TR - 23/Sep/12

Gareth Marshall - TR β - 09/Sep/12 with Andrew Callcott

Hidden - Lead β - 09/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/12

kennyne9 - TR rpt - 08/Aug/12 with Gillian Newman

Chriswallis2 - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/12 with Anna

So happy with this one. Best climb yet! Heart beating a bit after final pull-up. Self belay.
Johny Stubbs - Solo - 10/Jul/12

relatively difficult entry section, gets easier as you go up. conditions were very wet!
tristan_kobayashi - TR O/S - 24/Jun/12

Hidden - TR - 14/Jun/12

s.scott - Lead dnf - 13/Jun/12 with michelle.sangan

Hidden - Solo - 13/Jun/12

smollett - TR - 24/May/12 with paul

kennyne9 - TR β - 22/May/12 with Gillian Newman

jamieconnolly - 2nd - 29/Apr/12

barni - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/12 with Proff

alanrsv - TR - 09/Apr/12 with Josh Hall

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - TR dnf - 20/Mar/12

ruffnek - TR O/S - 17/Mar/12 with Philip Howard

matthewrech - TR - 26/Feb/12 with Jonathan Rech

pauliegigawatts - TR rpt - 17/Feb/12

Drew(yes im magic) - TR - 22/Jan/12 with Brad Woodlands, Sam Oliver

s.scott - TR - 21/Jan/12

cballard - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Sep/11

Pumped out on last crux
jim6002 - TR dnf - 04/Sep/11

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - TR O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Stu Ferguson

samoliver01 - Lead β - 17/Aug/11

Alot of arm strength required for the first undergrab.
Drew(yes im magic) - 2nd - 15/Aug/11 with Sam Oliver

aleckirby - TR O/S - 28/Jul/11

pumpy , but what a nice climb, enjoyed it !
Julian Laidler - TR O/S - 24/Jul/11

ablackett - TR - 06/Jul/11 with Andy Wallace

lindsam - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Will C

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/11

Don't fall in the swamp!
RossKirtley - 2nd - 13/Jun/11

Dervey - Lead - 07/Jun/11

Simnel - TR - 30/May/11 with Tony S

Anthony1 - TR - 30/May/11 with Hannah L, John L

samoliver01 - TR O/S - 20/May/11

jonny taylor - TR rpt - 18/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 12/May/11

A classic!
alan1234 - Lead rpt - 05/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/11

ed.burton - Lead - May/11

Tactical assault; down climbed to rest and depump before second crux.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Drew

3 attempts to beat the crux. Pumped from then on.
Higher Primate - 2nd dog - 28/Apr/11 with Cam Stephen, Ian Sutcliffe

cmars89 - Lead - 24/Apr/11

samoliver01 - TR - 23/Apr/11

djromberg - 2011

jamieconnolly - Lead - 2011 with peter holder

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Pohil - 2011

hard start, took 3 attemts
trueuk1 - TR - 17/Oct/10

mikecollins - TR - 17/Oct/10 with Laura D

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/10

JohnTheMountainGoat - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/10 with Will Coombs

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/10

JohnTheMountainGoat - 2nd - 13/Sep/10 with Rory Woods

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Aug/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 18/Aug/10

ccraigg22 - 2nd - 17/Aug/10 with Paul Murdy

First HVS.
pmurdy - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/10 with Craig Towers

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/10

Hidden - Solo - 12/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/10

SiRees - TR O/S - 26/Jul/10 with Sally Chisolm, Matt Lambert, Mike Collins

Matt.L - TR RP - 26/Jul/10

Kane L. - TR O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Matt.L, SiRees

Kane L. - 2nd rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Matt.L, SiRees

Kane L. - 2nd rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Matt.L, SiRees

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/10

alan1234 - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 18/Jun/10

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Anna

maggie505 - 2nd - 18/May/10 with Ian Norman

Hidden - Solo rpt - 14/May/10

J1PEF - 13/May/10

shouter - Lead - 13/May/10

Nice route, jugs all the way up.
odox - Lead O/S - 12/May/10 with Rob Clark

Hidden - TR O/S - 10/May/10

tom.ireson - 2nd O/S - 08/May/10 with Henry Jenkins

my firs HVS Onsited!! love this route!!
gdsmnorm - Lead O/S - 05/May/10

A 'pumpy' but otherwise fairly easy climb.
alan1234 - TR O/S - 28/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10

David Bulley - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/10 with Andy Chisholm

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with cliff lowther

Best climb in the quarry IMO. Don't think it's 5b, book said 5a. Still worth a climb! Has good gear all the way and good rest positions.
David Bulley - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/10 with Andy Chisholm

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10

MarkDavies36 - 2010

ad82amr - TR - 2010 with Craig, Amy

Maddison_dan - Lead O/S - 2010

Aaronsim - TR dog - 2010 with tom bland

shouter - TR - 15/Nov/09

Peter White - Lead dog - 10/Oct/09 with Adrian Anderson

Hidden - Lead - Oct/09

Hidden - Solo - 17/Sep/09

andyhutch77 - Lead - 10/Sep/09 with Marc Tomlinson

Not sure there is a 5b move, but was pretty pumped at the top despite afew good rests.
markfairbank - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09 with Mick D

stoat - 2nd - 09/Sep/09 with markfairbank

Hidden - Solo - 21/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Aug/09

smollett - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with oliver

benj_d - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/09 with slapperv6

Pretty wet in places
jonny taylor - TR rpt - 30/Jun/09

andrew sandercock - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/09 with robert sandercock

mikecollins - TR RP - 30/May/09 with stg

mikecollins - 2nd O/S - 07/May/09 with stg

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/09

Didnt make it first time. The last overhang was tasty and bottled and came down. But got it second time
mikecollins - Lead RP - 30/Apr/09 with stg

cat22 - 2nd - 25/Apr/09 with Mike

Peter Holder - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Adam Rawlings

colin987 - 20/Apr/09 with Bruce Davies

Got it led at last
jonny taylor - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/09 with Paul

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/09 with M.Green

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/08

andyhutch77 - Lead - 19/Jun/08 with Marc Tomlinson

mikekeswick - TR O/S - 01/Jun/08 with gill

made it half way
gilldando - 2nd - 31/May/08 with Mike

Lead on pre-place gear
Mithral999 - Lead - 11/May/08 with John Haxon

John84 - 2nd O/S - 11/May/08 with Ian Angus, Ana Collado

hawkins321 - Solo O/S - 05/May/08 with rosie atkinson

hawkins321 - Lead O/S - 05/May/08 with rosie atkinson

ablackett - Lead RP - 01/May/08 with Andy Wallace

Well this was an interesting evening. Old jackie boy set off to beat this route he started well! HE place what he thought was a good cam placement and proceeded to have a 4m run out at which point he fell, ripping out the friend and fall 30ft into a large muddy puddle, breaking his wrist in 3 places. what a WALLY LOL
john_boy_scottie1985 - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/08 with jak_005

barney800 - TR - Apr/08 with Jonny Taylor

jonny taylor - TR RP - Apr/08 with James B

jonny taylor - TR rpt - Apr/08 with Andy W, Andy B

tatosanti1984 - 2nd - 11/Mar/08 with Ian

Got it done after 3 attempts, now you do it JimmyO
ablackett - TR RP - 08/Mar/08 with Andy Wallace

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/08

Hidden - TR - 2008

rockjock - 2008

WILL TRAD THIS NEXT TIME, A NICE LITTLE CLIMB WITH A PUMPY ROOF SECTION
andrewtilney - TR O/S - 14/Oct/07 with julie the wife

Jimmy O - TR dnf - Oct/07 with Andy Blackett

Hidden - Solo rpt - 26/Sep/07

Em66 - TR O/S - 28/Aug/07 with Toby

A good belay by Chrissie, spot on.
dazbarker - TR O/S - 07/Aug/07 with Chrissie

Used shunt as its a bit high.Didnt load it.
dazbarker - Solo rpt - 05/Aug/07

ShaunN - TR O/S - 11/Jul/07

Heather Wallace - TR - Jul/07

dazbarker - TR dog - 27/Jun/07 with Al Davis

AlanDavis - TR dog - 27/Jun/07 with Jonah

freerangecat - TR - 06/Jun/07 with Kate

Brown - Solo O/S - 04/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/07

Hard start (campus followed by bum wedge)
kevinknights - 2nd dog - 06/Jul/06 with Ginger Tom

sasmojo - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/06 with Graeme Nicol

Superb! Start with knee jam
ramsay8202.freeserve.co.uk - TR O/S - 19/Jun/06

David Ballantyne - TR O/S - 2006

storky - TR - 13/Jul/05

melmyo - TR - Sep/04

Stone Muppet - 2004

didntcomelast - May/02

antclark6381 - Lead - 01/Jan/00

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/99

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/96

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jul/90

kato'sdad - Lead - 1990 with Jerry Mattinson

steve taylor - TR - Mar/86 with ken

In spite of the mucky rock this route is a local classic. The mud slope finish feels about E3!!
allmag - Solo - 15/Aug/85

Hidden - Lead - Apr/85

cornishmackem - Mar/82

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - Jun/80

Hidden - TR - 1979

beaumap - Lead - 1977

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 1972 with Ed Thompson

Lord of Starkness - 2nd - 1971 with Ed Thompson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matt Poole, speekingleesh, Hidden, samfayers, ccraigg22, beckywecky, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 70
hard E10 of 23
E10 of 23
easy E10 of 23
hard HVS1 of 23
HVS20 of 23
easy HVS2 of 23
hard VS0 of 23
VS0 of 23
easy VS0 of 23
hard 5c0 of 24
5c0 of 24
easy 5c0 of 24
hard 5b1 of 24
5b2 of 24
easy 5b10 of 24
hard 5a9 of 24
5a2 of 24
easy 5a0 of 24
3 Stars19 of 23
2 Stars2 of 23
1 Star2 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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Style of ascent

Soloed11 of 206 (5.3%)
Lead74 of 206 (35.9%)
Followed34 of 206 (16.5%)
Toproped75 of 206 (36.4%)
Unknown12 of 206 (5.8%)

'Climbed'78 of 206 (37.9%)
clean O/S72 of 206 (35.0%)
clean β7 of 206 (3.4%)
clean rpt24 of 206 (11.7%)
clean RP8 of 206 (3.9%)
dogged9 of 206 (4.4%)
dnf8 of 206 (3.9%)