The rocks are located in a block of privately owned woodland that are being actively managed. Due to ongoing forestry operations, access may not always be possible and could be different from that described in the guidebook.
Parking can be an issue. Do not park at the base of the track leading to the crag. Parking should in the village of Pandy and walking a bit further to avoid blocking gateways and narrow lanes.
The BMC has been attempting to get hold of the Land Owner, there has been no communication from them to confirm the access, we therefor ask any climbers to act respectfully if you are asked to leave.
Rockfax Description
Start as for Villeta.1) 25m. Move up to the small tree and head rightwards to join Schmutzig midway. Follow a line of good holds right to a belay on large perched block.2) 4a, 20m. Gain a horizontal finger-crack on the slab above the belay. Move right to the edge and swing down via a hidden hold into the corner of Emerald Point. Cross the slab and gain the groove of Banana Boat and finish over its final overhang. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A really enjoyable and escapable girdle across the main slab. Start at the base of the descent gully as for Villeta.
1) Move up to follow the obvious traverse crack rightwards to the grassy crack and further following excellent jugs to belay on the obvious block ledge 15ft below the top.
2) Step up onto the slab above the belay to reach a horizontal finger crack moving right along this to the arĂȘte. A steep swing down right into the grove will prove easier than it looks after finding the hidden hold! Continue right across the slab at the same height to the next arĂȘte which is rounded to finish up a roof crack. (Cicerone)
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