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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rick Sewards | 22 Nov, 2023 |
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βeta: Not \"good straightforward climbing\" at HVS 5a as described in the current LWV guide, though if the brambles are pruned from the easy lower section it could be worthwhile if you\'re leading E1. The crux section isn\'t the loose-looking offwidth at the back of the bay - it\'s a shallow groove to the left of this with a thin crack for gear, which leads up to a resting ledge with a wider, easier crack above (which requires some care - I pulled a block off from inside the crack). The shallow groove is hard and very pumpy - I got good gear in at the start but then couldn\'t stop to place more (though it was early in the year so wouldn\'t have been in good trad shape) - E1 5b overall IMO. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not "good straightforward climbing" at HVS 5a as described in the current LWV guide, though if the brambles are pruned from the easy lower section it could be worthwhile if you're leading E1. The crux section isn't the loose-looking offwidth at the back of the bay - it's a shallow groove to the left of this with a thin crack for gear, which leads up to a resting ledge with a wider, easier crack above (which requires some care - I pulled a block off from inside the crack). The shallow groove is hard and very pumpy - I got good gear in at the start but then couldn't stop to place more (though it was early in the year so wouldn't have been in good trad shape) - E1 5b overall IMO. |
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Route of Interest
Sinew
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Wynd Cliff)