UKC

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Following a fatality, the BMC agreed the following conditions with the landowner - failure to comply with these requirements could result in a complete ban on climbing:

  • No large groups
  • No outdoor education or instructional groups
  • No dogs
  • All climbers must descend on foot - NO abseiling

The North East England Guide provides warning on the stability of the following routes: Pianissimo to Kestrel, Wings, BBC, Crackers and Gone. Many of the routes have steep grassy top outs.

Follow the crack leading out of the left of the shallow cave, starting on the wall to its left. A short detour left is necessary at some 'poised blocks' just over half way up, or take the small overhang direct (harder, VS 4c/5a?).
Would be almost worthy of a star if it weren't for the hideous exit, up a short chimney (entrance guarded by shrubbery) and 30 feet of near-vertical vegetation.

Ernie Shield, Bob Cornwell 08/Sep/1962.

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High HS
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Route of Interest
Dental Slab

Grade: S 4a ***
(Rylstone)

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