M Brown & A Wilcox 1978
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Adrian Daniels||18/Sep||Lead dnf||
Bailed right into Marion about half way up
|The Ivanator||22/Jul||Lead O/S|
|Gaz of Bath||05/Jun||Lead O/S|
Takes lots of rubbish micro gear but the occasional bomber nut placement. Easy angled slab but really thin for the grade, a few long reaches from high steps needed, very sustained on the feet without many rests! Fantastic route.
Lead today without knowledge of what it was, assuming it would be a casual baggy Server, turned into classic bold slab climbing. i considered at the top it was a Bold VS or a soft touch HVS... turns out i was bob on! Cracking route. used a micro nut at the second crux
went off route near the top and finished on Ben for last few meters .. very nice climbing .. hardest lead to date .. =D
|Lumbering Oaf||09/Jul/13||Lead rpt||
Certainly a harder route than In Marion's Eyes the VS5a next door. Perhaps the grades should be swapped around!
Bugger, just too hard for me. When I seconded the route I felt I'd made the right decision backing off.
|mike hooper||06/Jul/13||Lead O/S||
This needs a look at .. And slap some stars on cracking route
Definitely worth some stars and much harder than the grade suggests, some proper moves going on with very thin gear.
Definately harder than VS4c. compare to Seamstress and seams the same (VS and E1). Both at the same sort of angle but this is much more technical with less good gear and a relatively unprotected crux as well as being more sustained. technical footwork needed so would be a good coaching route for smearing.
|Lumbering Oaf||02/Jun/12||Lead O/S||
IMPs handy on this route. Good, interesting climbing.
|Jim Malo||28/Oct/11||Lead dnf||
Bailed into Ben near the top. Thin for VS.
|Ian JL||01/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
|Chris Sansum||10/Apr/11||2nd O/S||
very thin for VS, delicate footwork/smear's on some small handholds. Not in rockfax guide, but should be ats a great climb, and conistently testing all the way up. Gear is poor low down, and not much better higher up.
Seb Fisher Green, Jim Robinson
|gareth r||11/Sep/10||Lead O/S||
Flippin scary, first route I ever used peenuts on and they were needed
|Richard Morgan||30/Jun/10||Lead dnf||
Had to set up a hanging belay as tide was wetting my belayer. Painful rockshoes then forced a finish up a severe off left
|nick hawkins||12/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
|Master Chief||14/May/09||TR O/S|
|John Brayshaw||29/Sep/08||Lead O/S|
|Dan Shirley||21/Jun/07||Lead O/S|
|gareth r||09/Sep/06||Lead dnf||
Managed to lead up to blank bit in the middle, then got lost. Finished on Ben. Desperately thin.
Rhys F, Isabel B
Worth HVS and *
|craig h||29/May/96||Lead O/S||
Used to be HVS in the 80s, but felt soft for the grade.