Devon > Baggy Point >
 
Sleepy Toes VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
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Marion >>
[Sleepy Toes (VS 4c), Baggy Promontory, 2 kb]40m. The thin crack between Ben and Marion. (Interestingly, Brown and Wilcox had this graded HVS 5a in Pete O'Sullivan's Devon's New Climbs in 1980.)
M Brown & A Wilcox 1978

Photo: Sleepy Toes (VS 4c), Baggy Promontory © Lizard
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 95 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jul/14

went off route near the top and finished on Ben for last few meters .. very nice climbing .. hardest lead to date .. =D
gateaublaster - Lead dnf - 02/Jul/14

jon59 - 2014

Certainly a harder route than In Marion's Eyes the VS5a next door. Perhaps the grades should be swapped around!
Lumbering Oaf - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/13 with Matt george

Bugger, just too hard for me. When I seconded the route I felt I'd made the right decision backing off.
manbat - Lead dnf - 09/Jul/13 with Matthew Box

manbat - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Matthew Box

This needs a look at .. And slap some stars on cracking route
mike hooper - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with jobey martin

Definitely worth some stars and much harder than the grade suggests, some proper moves going on with very thin gear.
Joby - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Mike Hooper

Rassapotimus - 2nd - 24/Jun/13 with Lumbering Oaf

Nick Biven - 2013

Definately harder than VS4c. compare to Seamstress and seams the same (VS and E1). Both at the same sort of angle but this is much more technical with less good gear and a relatively unprotected crux as well as being more sustained. technical footwork needed so would be a good coaching route for smearing.
chris687 - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/12 with Jo Sumner

HVS 5a
The Pylon King - TR O/S - 22/Jun/12 with Mr Shunt

IMPs handy on this route. Good, interesting climbing.
Lumbering Oaf - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Verity Payne

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Mar/12

Mistee - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/12 with Phil

Callum Anderson - 2012

alan moore - 2012

alan moore - 2012

Bailed into Ben near the top. Thin for VS.
Jim Malo - Lead dnf - 28/Oct/11 with Putt

Rob84 - Lead rpt - 17/Oct/11 with Lou Knight

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11

Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Gary Lewin

gooberman-hill - 2nd - 20/Mar/11

chakrit - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/11

very thin for VS, delicate footwork/smear's on some small handholds. Not in rockfax guide, but should be ats a great climb, and conistently testing all the way up. Gear is poor low down, and not much better higher up.
twodada - Lead - 12/Sep/10 with Seb Fisher Green, Jim Robinson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10

cjohn62 - 2nd - 11/Sep/10 with martin

gareth r - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Keith

ranga - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10

Flippin scary, first route I ever used peenuts on and they were needed
Ben Sidsaph - Lead - 03/Jul/10 with ian timbrell

mad matt - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/10

timreynolds - Lead - 02/Jul/10 with Matt Reynolds

Had to set up a hanging belay as tide was wetting my belayer. Painful rockshoes then forced a finish up a severe off left
Richard Morgan - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/10 with Toby Kluth

nick hawkins - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with steve

Ybot Htulk - 2nd - Jun/10 with Richard

jamessandels - Lead - 03/May/10 with Tim stevens

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/10

MGrock - 2010

Joolz - Lead - 2010

TP - Lead - 2010

Ybot Htulk - Lead - Oct/09 with Sonya

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/09

RiPomc - Lead - 19/Sep/09 with Julie Cooke

JCookie - 2nd - 19/Sep/09 with Richard Plater

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/09

Master Chief - TR O/S - 14/May/09

jgclimb - TR - 14/May/09 with tom

Hidden - 2nd - Dec/08

erica - 2nd - 29/Sep/08 with John

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/08 with Erica

A very eliminate line, trying to stay between the easier ground of Ben and Marion. Quite thin but nice climbing.
Quiddity - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/08 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/08

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/08

SteveM - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Tobs

Hidden - Lead - May/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

andysroom - Lead O/S - Nov/07

buddha1369 - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/07 with James (The Mill)

kristofferalpsjo - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Toby Kluth

gareth r - 2nd - 08/Sep/07 with Hywel

Dave Searle - Lead - 21/Jul/07 with sim

Dan Shirley - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/07

upontop - Lead O/S - May/07 with Chris

climber sim - 2007

Managed to lead up to blank bit in the middle, then got lost. Finished on Ben. Desperately thin.
gareth r - Lead dnf - 09/Sep/06 with Martin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/06

Danhan - 2nd - 10/Sep/05 with Nick

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jul/05

Alaric - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/05 with Syd F

Isabel led
Alaric - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/04 with Rhys F, Isabel B

Worth HVS and *
Rog Wilko - Lead - Aug/03 with Debbie Wilkinson

AngelaC - 2nd - 30/Jun/03 with Dieter Cole

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/01

MKH - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - 18/Jun/00

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Mar/00

Mickdenali - Lead O/S - 1998

andy_pemberton - AltLd - 1997

craig h - Lead O/S - 29/May/96 with Janet Hannah

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 1996

sdht - 1993

Andy Say - Solo - 26/Apr/91

ChrisJD - Solo - 03/Mar/90

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1990 with Therry Cooper

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

kp64zl - Lead - Dec/89

Used to be HVS in the 80s, but felt soft for the grade.
davidalcock - 1988 with Philip Scorer

Ena - 1983

Mike C - Lead - 31/Oct/82 with John Fowler

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, SamanthaRoach12, Lumbering Oaf, Hidden, rob askew

Voting
Total votes cast 57
hard HVS0 of 21
HVS2 of 21
easy HVS6 of 21
hard VS9 of 21
VS3 of 21
easy VS1 of 21
hard HS0 of 21
HS0 of 21
easy HS0 of 21
hard 5a0 of 20
5a4 of 20
easy 5a12 of 20
hard 4c0 of 20
4c3 of 20
easy 4c1 of 20
hard 4b0 of 20
4b0 of 20
easy 4b0 of 20
3 Stars1 of 16
2 Stars10 of 16
1 Star5 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 95 (2.1%)
Lead50 of 95 (52.6%)
Followed28 of 95 (29.5%)
Toproped3 of 95 (3.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 95 (1.1%)
Unknown11 of 95 (11.6%)

'Climbed'49 of 95 (51.6%)
clean O/S38 of 95 (40.0%)
clean rpt3 of 95 (3.2%)
dnf5 of 95 (5.3%)