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Fly Me To The Moon** VS 5a

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A Blank Abstract >>
[Going up., 3 kb]The obvious slabby buttress with a wide crack in its right side. Pass a single bolt to a roof and juggy headwall. For the record: A retro-bolt has been placed at 50ft by the 1 st ascentionist. His rationale is that since the first ascent the gear placements below the crux roof have deteriorated to such an extent that they are unlikely to hold a leader fall. If the gear failed, from this height, the fall is potentially fatal. If you don't agree, don't clip.
G Lewis, S Blackman 1982

Photo: Going up. © Jon&anne-marie
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 94 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

5 repeats, first leg of pyramid
spearing05 - TR O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Andrew

AJR - TR O/S - 05/Jul/14 with alan rosier

Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/14 with Ra

Giles Davis - Lead rpt - 26/May/14 with Graham Ellis

Clipped the bolt. I have no problems with the ethics of clipping bolts on hybrid routes :-) Also placed two No.2 Camelots in the drill holes above.
Giles Davis - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Rob & Sarah, Anita Davis

Hidden - 04/May/14

Dafydd Llywelyn - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Feb/14

Petar Samkov - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Dec/13

matjam - Lead rpt - 28/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13 with Debbie

gingernick - Lead rpt - Aug/13 with Darrell

spearing05 - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/13 with Andrew

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jun/13

mauricechetwyndwoods1 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Leo Grabowski

leo-z-g - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Maurice

didn't clip the bolt as that's just cheating :P
ollieboy - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with ronan murphy, chris bagworth

tweedcore - 2nd O/S - 04/Feb/13 with Tym

Dr Toph - Solo rpt - 11/Dec/12

Didnt clip the bolt, but that does render the headwall essentially a solo. Nice wee route!
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Emily

Velo Orange - 2nd - 11/Nov/12 with Toph

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Oct/12

i.fish2000 - Lead rpt - 12/Oct/12 with Caroline Mougenot

steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

matjam - Lead rpt - 13/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Sep/12

Lovely climb, great moves. Romped up at the end of the day. Have to come back and lead.
mattrm - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/12 with Becky Athay

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/12

spearing05 - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/12 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/12

matjam - Lead - 29/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12

scoot - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Aug/11

matjam - Lead - 20/Jul/11

matjam - 2nd - 20/Jul/11

gareth r - Lead β - 19/Jun/11 with Paul

huwmjames - Lead - 11/Jun/11

James_86 - 24/Apr/11 with Stu

Danny Bags - 2011

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/10

s.c.white - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/10

nutcracker - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Mark Barrett

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/10

muttley_109 - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/10 with Peter

dave657 - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/10 with Alys

muttley_109 - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/10 with Gary Lewis

adrianjenner - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10

TomBailey - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/10 with adrianjenner

Giles Davis - 2nd O/S - 27/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/10

Herron - TR O/S - 20/Mar/10 with Suzanne Richards, Shane Underwood

Cheated and clipped the bolt after a 5min ethical dilemma (OK, I was worried the bird was going to return to its massive nest on the ledge next to the bolt and knock me off).
RedFox - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/09 with Steve B

spbond - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/09 with Stef

Paul Bowen - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/09 with John Crane

dave657 - Lead O/S - 22/May/09 with rob s

chrisjones199 - Lead O/S - 20/May/09 with Eefu

Mark Batey - 2nd O/S - 20/May/09 with Hash Popat

hash - Lead rpt - 20/May/09 with Mark Batey

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/May/09

Christian Reynish - TR O/S - 02/May/09 with Russell

eagleopus - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/09 with Gareth

Trad second
thelittlejo - 2nd O/S - 18/May/08 with Rebecca Hayes

Hidden - Lead - 18/May/08

hash - TR rpt - 19/Mar/08 with christian reynish

DafSWMC - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/08 with Hash

hash - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/08 with DafSWMC

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Feb/08

Hidden - TR O/S - Feb/08

Hidden - 2008

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 2008 with various

I've done this route a few times now and it never had a bolt on it. Don't know why it has now - brings the grade right down in my opinion. Shame, as its a good climb but better with some adventure!
Mark Salter - Lead β - 23/Aug/07 with Ben Carter

Andy White - TR - 01/Aug/07 with Ian Goudge

Clucky - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/07 with Steven Sylvester

Hidden - 2007

mikeshewring - 2007

Stone Muppet - 2007

Bux - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Harry Honan

Hidden - TR RP - 28/May/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/02

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/00

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Jun/99

Brucifer - 2nd - 01/Jun/99 with alan rosier

Nigel R Lewis - Lead - 12/Jul/93

I can't believe this has been retrobolted!
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/91 with Rich Lawrence, Phil Bent

sablackman - 2nd O/S - 1982

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
maddy92, Ropeboy, The Pylon King

Voting
Total votes cast 58
hard HVS0 of 15
HVS0 of 15
easy HVS2 of 15
hard VS2 of 15
VS10 of 15
easy VS0 of 15
hard HS1 of 15
HS0 of 15
easy HS0 of 15
hard 5b0 of 23
5b0 of 23
easy 5b0 of 23
hard 5a0 of 23
5a4 of 23
easy 5a13 of 23
hard 4c6 of 23
4c0 of 23
easy 4c0 of 23
3 Stars0 of 20
2 Stars12 of 20
1 Star6 of 20
0 Stars1 of 20
Bag of .....1 of 20
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 94 (1.1%)
Lead58 of 94 (61.7%)
Followed20 of 94 (21.3%)
Toproped8 of 94 (8.5%)
Unknown7 of 94 (7.4%)

'Climbed'18 of 94 (19.1%)
clean O/S47 of 94 (50.0%)
clean β2 of 94 (2.1%)
clean rpt25 of 94 (26.6%)
clean RP2 of 94 (2.1%)