Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Get established on a low ledge and then on a larger ledge 3m above. Go up left to gain ledges under a thin crack. Climb the crack to a corner and then finish on the right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Starts a little left of Temporary Truce at the foot of a fallen tree.
Climb up onto the good ledge just behind the tree. From here climb up and left bodly (or place gear out right in the crack of Temporary Truce if you prefer) until you reach the thin upper crack. Climb the upper crack with some difficuly but on good gear until you reach a muddy ledge and in situ rings behind.
Ticklists
Shorn Cliff Nose , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Red Rose Speedway
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Symonds Yat)