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Traverse of the Petit Charmoz** V

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South-West Pillar >>
[Petits Charmoz Traverse, 4 kb]A highly reccomended little route which is extremely popular. The granite, though sound, is often very polished and the ascent to the Col de l'Etala provides a classic initiation into the delights of the typical 'Chamonix' chimney!
M Pasteur, J Wicks and C Wilson 05/Jul/1898

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Photo: Petits Charmoz Traverse © colinthrelfall
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 57 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

walked across from the midi, Dawn was feeling under the weather so we were slow and so turned back at the chimneys below the ridge.
Teappleby - AltLd dnf - 20/Jun/14 with Dawn Brinkman, Ben Kelsey, Jem Greenway

Dawn was recovering from Illness but wanted to do some snow. glorious day. got to the rocky step onto the ridge proper and realised she was suffering. abbed off and managed to get her down for last lift, just! Perfect active rest day after Eugster Diagonal and Frendo..!?
benkelsey - Lead dnf - 20/Jun/14 with Jem Greenway, Dawn_K_B, Teappleby

If I wasn't so haggard it would have been amazing! Thanks to Ben Jem and Tom for putting up with me/making sure I didn't collapse!
Dawn_K_B - 2nd dnf - 20/Jun/14 with Tom Appleby, Jem Greenway, Ben Kelsey

Went up a pitch (harder than expected) before the first corner pitch as it was wet. The route is more interesting if followed on the left of the ridge rather than the easier Right (in places)
chris687 - AltLd - 21/Jul/13 with James Gordon

freeheel47 - 2013

Tobias at Home - 2013

jcw - 2013

walts4 - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Sep/12

Great wee climb. The approach and the descent are also good.
John Workman - Lead - 01/Aug/12 with Andy M

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 22/Aug/11

Greg Boswell - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Ally Swinton

Superb.
Karl Wooffindin - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Ollie Hemstock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10

keith leonard - 2010

Bristoldave - Lead - Aug/09 with CarolineH

CarolineH - Aug/09 with Dave

Teappleby - AltLd - Aug/09 with mum, Sarah, dad

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/09

BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/09 with Neil Dowse, Sam Davies

sam820 - 2nd - 23/Jun/09 with Neil Dowse, Boris Korzh

Neil D - AltLd dog - Jun/09 with Boriz Korzh

Gibbo - AltLd - Jul/08 with Tom Gibbison

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/07

decs - 01/Aug/07 with Mike

A little harder than the guide suggested, and watch the description in the guide as it may not always be correct!
localboy - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/07 with Chris H, Simon F

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/07

Good route ,, views spectacular, great summit ,, horrid descent!
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/07 with Jay Jackson, Sharon Hooper

Great views, nice slab traverse near the end and a fantastic summit.
adamscottthomas - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/07 with Oliver Mentz

31770 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/07 with adamscottthomas

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/07

shazhooper - Jun/07 with Jon Harvey, Jay Jackson

tom.e - 12/Jul/06 with Charlie Everett

SteveM - AltLd - 21/Aug/04 with Tobs

clams - 2004 with AD

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/03

Mark Salter - AltLd - 11/Apr/02 with Chris Shorrock

net - Aug/01 with Jeb

From the Refuge du Plan. One point of aid was used on each of the 2 chimneys, and 2 points on the diere.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/01 with Diccon Proctor

rachm2004 - 2nd - 29/Jul/98 with Ian L

Rained all the way along it
Duncan I - Aug/94 with Sarah

craig h - AltLd - Aug/94 with Jim Mellor

Hidden - Solo - Jul/93

tjekel - 1993

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/90

auld al - AltLd O/S - Jul/90

Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - Jul/90 with Luc Percival

mark-abz - AltLd - Aug/88 with Andy W

gallonj - Jul/88

freeheel47 - Jul/87

Richard Weller - Aug/80 with Richard White

Nigel Bond - Lead - 24/Aug/79 with Martin Crosby

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 18/Jul/76 with Pete Coghill

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 29/Jul/75

Hidden - 17/Aug/73

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
benclimbing, dannyW, Hidden, Timothy Miller, Hidden, Hidden, tdudley, kleinej

Voting
Total votes cast 9
hard V+0 of 0
V+0 of 0
easy V+0 of 0
hard V0 of 0
V0 of 0
easy V0 of 0
hard V-0 of 0
V-0 of 0
easy V-0 of 0
3 Stars0 of 4
2 Stars2 of 4
1 Star2 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 57 (3.5%)
Lead5 of 57 (8.8%)
Followed4 of 57 (7.0%)
Alt Leads27 of 57 (47.4%)
Unknown19 of 57 (33.3%)

'Climbed'39 of 57 (68.4%)
clean O/S14 of 57 (24.6%)
dogged1 of 57 (1.8%)
dnf3 of 57 (5.3%)