Devon > Meadfoot Quarry >
 
Third Time Lucky* HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Nervous Laughter
 
Demeter >>
Good climbing up the first obvious line of weakness right of Mayday. A good route but with sparse and dubious protection. Start beneath an obvious white rock scar 5 metres right of Mayday. Climb to the scar and pass it on the left, move back right to avoid a bulge and follow steeper ground to a weakness above (peg in-situ 2011, but back it up). Climb this direct (crux) to gain easier ground and continue with care to the top. Tree stump belays.
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This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Jesus that's scary (but then I'm a HVD climber) Think we went a little off route and finished on nervous laughter. Barely any gear, all of it terrible. Pulled out a rock and fell with it.
ledifer - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/14 with Mike 2 Degrees

Bollocks gear. Nice route though... Sort of did Nervous Lucky or Third Time Laughter really. Got a bit lost and did 90% this and 10% the other...
NaCl - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Lee Eddy

Nick Biven - 2014

Marktrin - TR - 21/Aug/13 with Sean K

phil456 - TR O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Sean

A very good nut placement just below the first rusty peg, but a little thin above this!
Sean Kelly - Lead - 21/Aug/13 with Harry Pearce

Motown - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/13 with Mark

Utterly terrifying. 5 pieces of gear on the whole route [excluding the easy choss at the top], recon about 3 were good enough. Very grateful to see a reasonable condition peg although I couldnt fiddle a tiny wire in above it to back it up. I'm claiming this as an E1 for the terror value. Pulled off a few handfulls from underneath the bulge aswell when looking for gear...
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/12 with Ian M

Ian Miller - 2nd - 30/Nov/12 with Ben Darby

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/12 with Debbie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/12

Motown - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Richy

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/12 with Tori

wezzie - TR O/S - 27/Nov/11

On the shunt
charley - TR O/S - 22/Oct/10

Spence22 - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Simon

bold!
Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with floris, Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Ceridwen Hutchinson

run out, poor gear
Grabtheslab - Lead - 20/Jul/10 with Henry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/10

Wandered a bit at the top.
JonHarvey - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/10 with Jay Jackson

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/09

One move wonder
porridgefan - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Niall Francis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09

TheGuns - TR O/S - 2009

Very little protection, definatly E1. All you need is micro nuts and big balls! Nice moves though.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/08 with davenev

davenev - 2nd dog - 23/Nov/08 with luke

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/08 with Edith

Very poor protection. backed off just before peg as reaching the peg looked unjustifiable with the shit gear 4 metres below my feet. scuttled off onto easy ground. this route is E1 5a.
The Pylon King - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/08 with Toby Kluth

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/08

strayed over to nervous laughter, was a bit too nervous, went back to original line.getting back prooved tricksy. next time will bring some micronuts and bigger balls.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 13/Jul/08 with mr ric

AJH - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Jez

Hidden - Lead β - 11/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/08

Really enjoyed this climb! My first HVS
Kate Edhouse - 2nd - 23/Mar/08 with James Clapham

northnorthnorth - Lead RP - 2008

gfoster - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/07 with James Witlock

jw231 - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/07 with gfoster

good climbing .sparse protection.fun fun fun
misterb - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/07 with mark

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Jul/07

Justin T - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/07 with Wifey

Justin T - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/07 with Wifey, Clara

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/May/07

Justin T - Lead rpt - 28/May/07 with Wifey

Justin T - Lead rpt - 23/May/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 23/May/07

Justin T - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/07

climber sim - 2007

richardr - Jul/06

Okecroak - 2nd - 28/Aug/02

andy_pemberton - Lead - May/01 with Katharine Pemberton

First ascent
Steve Woollard - Lead - 31/May/81 with Andy Holborn

Voting
Total votes cast 44
hard E10 of 16
E10 of 16
easy E111 of 16
hard HVS1 of 16
HVS4 of 16
easy HVS0 of 16
hard VS0 of 16
VS0 of 16
easy VS0 of 16
hard 5b0 of 15
5b0 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
hard 5a0 of 15
5a14 of 15
easy 5a1 of 15
hard 4c0 of 15
4c0 of 15
easy 4c0 of 15
3 Stars0 of 13
2 Stars2 of 13
1 Star9 of 13
0 Stars2 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent

Lead31 of 55 (56.4%)
Followed16 of 55 (29.1%)
Toproped5 of 55 (9.1%)
Unknown3 of 55 (5.5%)

'Climbed'14 of 55 (25.5%)
clean O/S27 of 55 (49.1%)
clean β1 of 55 (1.8%)
clean rpt9 of 55 (16.4%)
clean RP1 of 55 (1.8%)
dogged2 of 55 (3.6%)
dnf1 of 55 (1.8%)