Devon > Meadfoot Quarry >
 
Third Time Lucky* HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
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Demeter >>
Good climbing up the first obvious line of weakness right of Mayday. A good route but with sparse and dubious protection. Start beneath an obvious white rock scar 5 metres right of Mayday. Climb to the scar and pass it on the left, move back right to avoid a bulge and follow steeper ground to a weakness above (peg in-situ 2011, but back it up). Climb this direct (crux) to gain easier ground and continue with care to the top. Tree stump belays.
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This climb is in 48 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Utterly terrifying. 5 pieces of gear on the whole route [excluding the easy choss at the top], recon about 3 were good enough. Very grateful to see a reasonable condition peg although I couldnt fiddle a tiny wire in above it to back it up. I'm claiming this as an E1 for the terror value. Pulled off a few handfulls from underneath the bulge aswell when looking for gear...
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/12 with Ian M

ianmiller999 - 2nd - 30/Nov/12 with Ben Darby

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/12 with Debbie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/12

Will Cat - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Richy

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/12 with Tori

henrynelson - TR O/S - 06/Dec/11

wezzie - TR O/S - 27/Nov/11

On the shunt
charley - TR O/S - 22/Oct/10

Spence22 - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Simon

bold!
Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with floris, Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Ceridwen Hutchinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/10

Wandered a bit at the top.
JonHarvey - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/10 with Jay Jackson

One move wonder
porridgefan - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Niall Francis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09

TheGuns - TR O/S - 2009

Very little protection, definatly E1. All you need is micro nuts and big balls! Nice moves though.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/08 with davenev

davenev - 2nd dog - 23/Nov/08 with luke

Steerpike - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/08 with Edith

Very poor protection. backed off just before peg as reaching the peg looked unjustifiable with the shit gear 4 metres below my feet. scuttled off onto easy ground. this route is E1 5a.
The Pylon King - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/08 with Toby Kluth

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/08

strayed over to nervous laughter, was a bit too nervous, went back to original line.getting back prooved tricksy. next time will bring some micronuts and bigger balls.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 13/Jul/08 with mr ric

AJH - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Jez

Poorly protected. Deserves E1 5a. Median is way safer.
Kafoozalem - Lead β - 11/May/08 with Andy Peasgood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/08

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Mar/08

northnorthnorth - Lead RP - 2008

gfoster - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/07 with James Witlock

jw231 - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/07 with gfoster

good climbing .sparse protection.fun fun fun
misterb - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/07 with mark

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Jul/07

quadmyre - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/07 with Wifey

quadmyre - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/07 with Wifey, Clara

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/May/07

quadmyre - Lead rpt - 28/May/07 with Wifey

quadmyre - Lead rpt - 23/May/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 23/May/07

quadmyre - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/07

climber sim - 2007

richardr - Jul/06

Okecroak - 2nd - 28/Aug/02

andy_pemberton - Lead - May/01 with Katharine Pemberton

phillhw - 24/Aug/89

First ascent
Steve Woollard - Lead - 31/May/81 with Andy Holborn

Voting
Total votes cast 37
hard E10 of 13
E10 of 13
easy E110 of 13
hard HVS0 of 13
HVS3 of 13
easy HVS0 of 13
hard VS0 of 13
VS0 of 13
easy VS0 of 13
hard 5b0 of 13
5b0 of 13
easy 5b0 of 13
hard 5a0 of 13
5a12 of 13
easy 5a1 of 13
hard 4c0 of 13
4c0 of 13
easy 4c0 of 13
3 Stars0 of 11
2 Stars1 of 11
1 Star8 of 11
0 Stars2 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead26 of 48 (54.2%)
Followed15 of 48 (31.2%)
Toproped4 of 48 (8.3%)
Unknown3 of 48 (6.2%)

'Climbed'11 of 48 (22.9%)
clean O/S25 of 48 (52.1%)
clean β1 of 48 (2.1%)
clean rpt8 of 48 (16.7%)
clean RP1 of 48 (2.1%)
dogged1 of 48 (2.1%)
dnf1 of 48 (2.1%)