The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A useful option if Needle Arete is busy. The initial pitch can be avoided if wet by approaching the stance at the top of pitch one from the left. Begin left of Needle Arete's boot-width crack.
1) 12m. Move up the short wall and then continue up the mossy slab to a ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 25m. Starting left of the arete, climb the short left-facing corner and pass the overhang to gain easier ground. Head diagonally left up the slab, passing to the right of another overhang, and finish up cracks. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start left of Needle Arête, and left of the base of the short crack and slab.
1) 4b. Unprotected and mossy. Best left to a dry day. Pull over the short wall and climb carefully up the mossy slab, to reach a sloping ledge.
2) 4b. Climb the wall, left of Needle Arête, pass an overhang on the right; then climb diagonally left, up the slab, to finish up cracks.
Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , By May… , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
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Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)