Superb rock ridge from Arben Bivouac hut.

Hoare, Hulton, von Bergen, Moser & Rubi 23/Aug/1874

caradoc 15/Aug AltLd O/S

In ascent. Quite slabby climbing, very sustained, (rock boots might be useful if you could be bothered to take them). We moved left at the Grande Gendarme and climbed quite easy broken rock, there was a hard move above this on the arete. The final pitches on the summit wall were straightforward and easier than the slabby stuff below. Video of the day:

with Matt H.
Suzana 03/Aug/15 AltLd

Descent via Wellenkupe-Traverse

with Karsten
monsteratt 09/Sep/11 AltLd

Wow - longest days climbing I've ever done. Fairly straight forward to the notch in the summit ridge, but ridge was snowy/icy, which made it harder. Fantastic views as cloud burnt off though!!

with Tom
demarcation86 09/Sep/11 AltLd

Mega-climb, we both did very well...

chrissloan84 ?/Aug/10 -
with paul
featuresforfeet 13/Sep/09 AltLd dnf
with Matt Quirk
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/08 -

DNF - Poor Conditions overnight

with Byron Buck
Si dH 17/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Kane and Paddy
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 16/Jul/06 AltLd

Turned round approx 30 mins from top above the Grand Gendarme

with Paul Stephenson
James W ?/Aug/04 AltLd dnf

2001 - long walk up to bivyhut, raining at 3am, long walk back 2004 - 1st attempt turned back in snowy conditions, next day was a a bit better - 7 parties started, 4 turned back at ridge, we turned back 50 metres from top after helping out a german party up a particularly icy pitch, felt hypothermic in blustery and icy scottish conditions. German party bivvied and I got severe food poisoning from water at hut. Fantastic route and number 1 on wish list to try again. 2009 - long walk up again with detour due to landslip, started up with one other party in so-so conditions. rocky ridge this time as opposed to verglas and zooming up ridge, fantastic climbing, just below gendarme started blizzarding and turned back for 4th time. Starting to get p1ssed off about this route

with john sanday
SteveB_NWUK_99 ??/2003 AltLd

Guideless ascent. Dangerous descent on N. sides due to ice thawing in the record breaking summer temperatures. There was a fair bit of rock & ice falling.

Captain Solo ?/Jul/01 AltLd dnf

Made it to the summit ridge but wind picked up and too late in the day.

with Mark, Michael
Mark Bannan ?/Jul/01 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??/1999 -
brianrunner ?/Aug/91 -

this is a fine route and the bivvy hut is great too

with John Thomson
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