Rockfax Description
The long, low-angled slab on the left-hand side of the hanging basin provides the only easyish 'up' route of note at Anstey's Cove. The climbing is open, but also serious with minimal protection, and requires a steady leader. Start at the base of the slab.
1) 30m. Head up the middle of the slab to a belay on a metal quarry-spike where the upper wall rears up. The slab is straightforward but lacks any significant protection.
2) 4b, 23m. Traverse left for 4m to an arete and climb this to a ledge below the upper overhangs. Traverse rightwards to clear the overhangs and climb easy, but broken rock to the top and a fence post belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An easy but serious route.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Hidden 09/Oct Lead O/S
Edward Kwong 28/Aug Solo O/S

Soloed the first pitch, no gear at all. Started raining two thirds of the way to add some spice. Second pitch looked pretty loose at the top.

Tom Seccombe 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Ellie
G Weatherley 13/Jul Lead O/S
with Guy Freeman
Ellie Holland ?/Jul 2nd dnf

First pitch only

meanderthal 12/Jun AltLd
climbEdclimb 20/Mar AltLd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 20/Mar AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/15 Lead dnf
silviac 11/Jan/15 2nd O/S
benjaminloveday 14/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Sean Kelly 01/Oct/14 2nd

Loose at the top!! Not a climb to solo.

with Sam & Ed
Paul Robertson 30/Jan/14 Lead

pitch 1

Hidden 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd dnf
Ed morris 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Colin
Jay Polyzoides 03/Apr/13 -

Roped Solo

R2B 17/Mar/13 Lead O/S

First pitch had hardly any gear at all. Nice slab climbing though. Second pitch has a better feel with a nice traverse to start, followed by lots of good gear and a fixed seized cam. Top out super loose rock, requires careful climbing.

crag_whitelamb 17/Mar/13 2nd

Cacked my pants

with R2B
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
kingholmesy ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Colin
derryclimbs 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

used the bolted anchor. someone got a cam stuck on the second pitch.

Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
pete87abs 04/Jun/12 Solo O/S
EcoClimber 23/May/12 AltLd

I lead top pitch. Very old friend jammed in crux. Enjoyable, but loose after final move.

with Mike Roberts
EcoClimber 13/May/12 Lead dnf

I lead 1st pitch, then we climbed sports traverse with a random Alex.

with Sarah Keight
Mitch0845 02/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd
KDhruev 05/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Very Loose second pitch. Lots of rock fall.

with Tom G
Tom Gale 05/Feb/12 2nd O/S

Loose and Dirty!

with Keiha
Mitch0845 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Tom D ??/2012 -
Marti999 03/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
minexplorer 10/Jul/11 AltLd

grant led 1st pitch but used the bolts & side stepped crux.i led top pitch,fairly run out at first

with grant newcombe
minexplorer 25/Jun/11 AltLd

led 1st pitch.theres good protection midway(drill holes,2 cam,5 hex)an also on the hard crux(2.5cam,thread)why has it been bolted?did use the 2 belay bolts tho, as following bolt line(better)takes u away from original belay spike.luke led 2nd pitch

with luke
Chaman 22/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch

with Alex H
Hidden 14/Jun/11 AltLd
steveprice.exmouth 14/Jun/11 AltLd
with Emgrant
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd
JonHarvey 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Pleasant 1st pitch and nice exposed top pitch. Very worthwhile. Should NOT be bolted.

with Jayne-o
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Haytor_Haggis 30/Oct/10 AltLd

Led first pitch.

Steve Woollard 30/Oct/10 AltLd
minexplorer 14/Oct/10 Solo

supposed to have no prot so went up for a little reccy in me trainers and ended doing the first pitch.yep no pro anywhere.not hard tho just be careful as theres no jugs to hold if a foot slips.decided to avoid correct finish.went carefully up to top over somewhere on right where plenty of jugs

Aaron Phillips 25/Sep/09 2nd dnf

didnt finish as dad couldnt get very good pro in.

henbot 17/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

first pitch run out, second pitch loose top out

with Keith Lackie
Hidden ??/2009 -
Dave Searle ?/Oct/08 Lead
mreynolds 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Serious, should be bolted (along with a load of protectionless lower-grade routes in TQ)

timreynolds 07/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Justin T 22/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Wifey
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
CraigMac1 ??/2000 Lead O/S
babymoac 28/Apr/96 Lead
with Jules, Liz
puddingstone 28/Apr/96 2nd
with Andy
colin milton 02/Oct/94 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden 14/Jan/90 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1988 -
Chris Terrey ?/May/80 Solo
Steve Woollard ??/1980 Lead
Mike C 25/Nov/79 AltLd
with John Fowler, David Blight
Mike C 14/Jan/78 AltLd
with Walter Phipps
Mike C 30/Oct/77 AltLd
with Nick Harman
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