Rockfax Description
The long, low-angled slab on the left-hand side of the hanging basin provides the only easyish 'up' route of note at Anstey's Cove. The climbing is open, but also serious with minimal protection, and requires a steady leader. Start at the base of the slab.
1) 30m. Head up the middle of the slab to a belay on a metal quarry-spike where the upper wall rears up. The slab is straightforward but lacks any significant protection.
2) 4b, 23m. Traverse left for 4m to an arete and climb this to a ledge below the upper overhangs. Traverse rightwards to clear the overhangs and climb easy, but broken rock to the top and a fence post belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An easy but serious route.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 09/Oct Lead O/S
Edward Kwong 28/Aug Solo O/S

Soloed the first pitch, no gear at all. Started raining two thirds of the way to add some spice. Second pitch looked pretty loose at the top.

Tom Seccombe 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Ellie
G Weatherley 13/Jul Lead O/S
with Guy Freeman
Ellie Holland ?/Jul 2nd dnf

First pitch only

meanderthal 12/Jun AltLd
climbEdclimb 20/Mar AltLd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 20/Mar AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/15 Lead dnf
silviac 11/Jan/15 2nd O/S
benjaminloveday 14/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Sean Kelly 01/Oct/14 2nd

Loose at the top!! Not a climb to solo.

with Sam & Ed
Paul Robertson 30/Jan/14 Lead

pitch 1

Hidden 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
chudders1 05/Oct/13 AltLd

led P2- necky

with iantoday, Jo Taylor
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd dnf
Ed morris 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Colin
Jay Polyzoides 03/Apr/13 -

Roped Solo

R2B 17/Mar/13 Lead O/S

First pitch had hardly any gear at all. Nice slab climbing though. Second pitch has a better feel with a nice traverse to start, followed by lots of good gear and a fixed seized cam. Top out super loose rock, requires careful climbing.

crag_whitelamb 17/Mar/13 2nd

Cacked my pants

with R2B
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
kingholmesy ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Colin
derryclimbs 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

used the bolted anchor. someone got a cam stuck on the second pitch.

Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
pete87abs 04/Jun/12 Solo O/S
EcoClimber 23/May/12 AltLd

I lead top pitch. Very old friend jammed in crux. Enjoyable, but loose after final move.

with Mike Roberts
EcoClimber 13/May/12 Lead dnf

I lead 1st pitch, then we climbed sports traverse with a random Alex.

with Sarah Keight
Mitch0845 02/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd
KDhruev 05/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Very Loose second pitch. Lots of rock fall.

with Tom G
Tom Gale 05/Feb/12 2nd O/S

Loose and Dirty!

with Keiha
Mitch0845 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Tom D ??/2012 -
Marti999 03/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
minexplorer 10/Jul/11 AltLd

grant led 1st pitch but used the bolts & side stepped crux.i led top pitch,fairly run out at first

with grant newcombe
minexplorer 25/Jun/11 AltLd

led 1st pitch.theres good protection midway(drill holes,2 cam,5 hex)an also on the hard crux(2.5cam,thread)why has it been bolted?did use the 2 belay bolts tho, as following bolt line(better)takes u away from original belay spike.luke led 2nd pitch

with luke
Chaman 22/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch

with Alex H
Hidden 14/Jun/11 AltLd
steveprice.exmouth 14/Jun/11 AltLd
with Emgrant
solenostomus 11/Jun/11 2nd

First pitch is now bolted - it leads to a double bolt for safe belaying (rusty iron spike is still there but no longer needed). Second pitch is not easy to protect and still just as bold as it probably ever was. It's fun though!

with JennyVS, Ben Vieyra
JonHarvey 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Pleasant 1st pitch and nice exposed top pitch. Very worthwhile. Should NOT be bolted.

with Jayne-o
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Haytor_Haggis 30/Oct/10 AltLd

Led first pitch.

Woolly 30/Oct/10 AltLd
minexplorer 14/Oct/10 Solo

supposed to have no prot so went up for a little reccy in me trainers and ended doing the first pitch.yep no pro anywhere.not hard tho just be careful as theres no jugs to hold if a foot slips.decided to avoid correct finish.went carefully up to top over somewhere on right where plenty of jugs

Aaron Phillips 25/Sep/09 2nd dnf

didnt finish as dad couldnt get very good pro in.

henbot 17/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

first pitch run out, second pitch loose top out

with Keith Lackie
Hidden ??/2009 -
Dave Searle ?/Oct/08 Lead
mreynolds 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Serious, should be bolted (along with a load of protectionless lower-grade routes in TQ)

timreynolds 07/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Justin T 22/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Wifey
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
CraigMac1 ??/2000 Lead O/S
babymoac 28/Apr/96 Lead
with Jules, Liz
puddingstone 28/Apr/96 2nd
with Andy
colin milton 02/Oct/94 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden 14/Jan/90 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1988 -
Hidden ?/Mar/86 AltLd O/S
Chris Terrey ?/May/80 Solo
Woolly ??/1980 Lead
Mike C 25/Nov/79 AltLd
with John Fowler, David Blight
Mike C 14/Jan/78 AltLd
with Walter Phipps
Mike C 30/Oct/77 AltLd
with Nick Harman
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Voting
High VS
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High HS
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Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 18
High 4c
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Votes cast 2
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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DNF
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