UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

Rockfax Description
The lower wall to the midway ledge provides the crux via a couple of fingery pulls. The upper wall is easier but excellent. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson, Hazel Gibson 30/Apr/2006.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
rigbydan 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Kept failing on the third bolt. O made me repeat again and again. Got it in the end but was knackered.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Kept failing on the third bolt. O made me repeat again and again. Got it in the end but was knackered.
rigbydan 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Kept failing on the third bolt. O made me repeat again and again. Got it in the end but was knackered.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Kept failing on the third bolt. O made me repeat again and again. Got it in the end but was knackered.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Watchman

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)

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