|350m, 9 pitches. Western Buttress, a line up the centre. My latest recommended pitches (sept 2014)- 1. 40m to huge block belay, 2. 60m very easy to enter West central Gully(so get 2nds to start moving so you can reach on 50m ropes). 3. 25m up deep cleft to block belay below steep wall. 4. 40m Crux moves bridging up frequently damp rock then zigzag best line to reach continuation chimney rising leftward. 5. 35m Tr right to waterworn groove, ascend then fractured basalt blocks rightward (&ignore tempting clean slab) to easy left slanting slab & belay 5m up this. 6. 45m Up slab easily past blocks then take 1st basalt fault on R. I broke out right from this before it straigtens up to a good thread belay at top of a 3m grass tongue. 7 45m Regain basalt chimney & belay on wedged capping chock. 8. 50m Surmont chock then take cleanest rock just L of chimney to avoid choss. Break out R-ward to gain rib overlooking Western Gully. 9+ 80m Ascend fine rib moving together or 2 easy pitches.|
E W Steeple & H E Bowron 1909
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