350m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 350m. A staggeringly good route which is a dream for lovers of technical, slabby terrain. There is the odd steep section too, but overall this is more about slabs, cracks and friction climbing. Scramble up broken ledges to reach the first belay.
1) 5b. Climb up and left across a ledge system to belay below and left of a corner.
2) 6b+. Climb the thin slab diagonally up and left and then follow a thin crack to belay beneath another corner.
3) 6a+. Follow the corner and step left out of it.
4) 6c+. Traverse out right to the superb steep crack. Climb this past a small roof to easier ground leading to the belay.
5) 6b. Follow the superb hand-crack diagonally up and left and then stay with it as it bends back right.
6) 4b. A welcome break! Scramble across easy ledges.
7) 6b. Climb fantastic thin cracks up and left to belay in the middle of a huge slab.
8) 6a. Climb the corner above and right for 30m, then move right to a belay on a narrow ledge beneath a thin-looking slab.
9) 6c+. Looks are not deceptive on this occasion - the slab is incredibly thin and technical. There are some bolts but this is still a tough pitch that feels bold. It was originally graded 6b, which gives you some idea of Piola's slab climbing prowess.
10) 6c. Traverse up and right and then follow a crack to a hanging belay beneath a small roof.
11) 6c+. Traverse out right under the roof and then climb the sustained crack above.
12) 6a. Move right off the belay and follow a brilliant hand-crack to the Blaitière's mid-height ledge system.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
ED. 6c (obl 6b) Well eqipped with bolt belays, bolts and the odd chipped hold.

Michel Piola

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.


ClimberDateStyle
feilx 19/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead last 4 pitches, found the 2nd pitch the hardest, serious friction climbing with cold hands and feet. Lift up and down in a day. Did the alternative 6b+ last pitch which finishes left on the 6a pitch (short finger crack).

with Robin, Niko
Rob Pitt 08/Aug -

Led pitches 6,7,8,9

with Ben Tibbets, Tim
Paul Collins 03/Aug AltLd dnf
with Suzana
Hidden 02/Aug -
A Crook 13/Aug/13 AltLd dnf

Due to guide book being forgotten and only having a crappy topo, spent too long messing about finding the route. Abseiled off as we were taking too long and then went and did something else.

Dave Searle ??/2013 -
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 18/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Andy Cave
Hidden 09/Aug/93 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Aug/87 AltLd O/S
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Voting
High ED3
Mid ED3
Low ED3
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set