Rockfax Description
II, 210m. A brilliant route, in the full glare of the sun all day and featuring some stiff climbing up the centre of the face.
1) 6a, 20m. Climb the slabby crack which leads to the foot of a right-leaning corner. This pitch only exists due to glacial retreat and was bolted in 2010 to make it acceptably well protected.
2) 6a+, 25m. Follow the corner to a belay underneath the imposing roof, passing a bolt halfway up.
3) 6b+, 15m. Traverse left under the roof (bolts) until almost out from underneath it, then climb through it going diagonally up and left. Once past the roof, move a metre to the right to reach the belay. A great little pitch but no pushover.
4) 6b, 35m. Climb the slab above by initially drifting up and left before coming back after 15m and traversing rightwards until back above the previous belay, on a ledge shared with the Rébuffat-Baquet.
5) 7a, 15m. Climb the crack above with some difficulty to a belay beneath a steep groove bypassing the overhang above it on the left. This pitch is slightly easier if you have thin fingers which can fit in the crack; those with fat digits might want to send their mate up on the lead!
6) 6c+, 20m. Follow the groove awkwardly until you find yourself at the top left end of the overhang. Continue up the corner on the right which steepens but is easier than it looks.
7) 5c, 20m. A comparative rest after the last two pitches! Climb the crack system, drifting slightly left until under a third overhang.
8) 6a, 15m. The steep crack above and left of the belay is, thankfully, easier than it appears from below. Climb it and traverse right once through the overhang to a spectacularly situated belay.
9) 6c/A0 (or 7b), 20m. Although it is possible to free the move straight off the belay, it is utterly desperate and virtually everyone pulls on the bolt, whether they admit it or not! The groove above is hard and requires the ability to jam well. It eases near the top and finishes on a good ledge.
10) 5c, 20m. Follow slightly more broken ground to the left of a small overhang and then leftwards to the foot of the final pitch of the Rébuffat-Baquet.
11) 6b+, 25m. The final pitch of the Rébuffat-Baquet. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Hard move into a burly E4 crack on the crux pitch. 6a obligatory.

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.


ClimberDateStyle
Sam Simpson 26/Jun AltLd

Pitches 1,2,3. Tired so we finished on the rebufett again

with Pat Browniie
Hidden 11/Sep/13 AltLd dog
soph 13/Jul/13 AltLd
with Misha Gopaul, Ben Tibbetts
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 20/Jul/06 AltLd β
with Andy Cave
Hidden 16/Sep/91 AltLd dog
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
PLM, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
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High TD+
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Low TD+
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Mid 7a+
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High 7a
Mid 7a
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High 6c+
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Low 6c+
Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set