Rockfax Description
This line has now cleaned up and provides a popular pitch that follows the steep groove to the right of Idiot Village. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
To the R of (and around the corner from) Idiot Village (and the trad route Wallcreeper) is a steep, loose groove, climb this carefully to a double maillon lower-off. (the clean crack/groove to the R is Fatty Crack VS) The grade is very provisional; take care with the holds.

Scott Titt 01/Aug/2006

Ticklists: Winspit Sport Climbs.

AJ007 18/Oct Lead O/S
JayAsh 18/Oct 2nd dog
with AJ
onlyfoddington 11/Oct Lead O/S

Pumpy little number

with Yin
mickd 12/Sep Lead
tonevert 23/Aug Lead O/S
with Amy
Hidden 15/Aug Lead dog
rumblesan 10/Aug Lead dnf

had to have a rest at the third bolt. Rain stopped play when I got to the top and found everything really slick. Ended up having to do some sketchy down climbing to retrieve draws.

samohtdoowde 09/Aug Lead O/S

caracking day

with Anna Ludmilova Pumpkin Alexandrova
dom94 09/Aug Lead O/S
with Eloise
Eloise_SW 09/Aug 2nd dnf
with Dom
Hidden 02/Aug Lead O/S
alijam42 02/Aug TR
Trace ?/Aug Lead G/U
andy jennings 27/Jul TR O/S
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 27/Jul Lead rpt
with Baby A
elliptic 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Sarah
climbhannahclimb 11/Jul Lead O/S
with Mark Barrett
Vizour 05/Jul Lead dog

Loads of loose rock. Done with one rest as it was the last climb of the day.

with Balasz
Hidden 28/Jun Lead dnf
robfir 27/Jun -
Hidden 23/Jun TR O/S
jungle 21/Jun Lead dog

Awkard moves

Hidden 14/Jun Lead
Giles Eperon 14/Jun Lead O/S
Charlie Eperon 14/Jun 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun Lead O/S
matt davies 13/Jun Lead
cmj 06/Jun Lead dog
with Georgia French
mickd ?/Jun Lead rpt
the ant hill mob 30/May Lead
with Mike Harper, Jessica Crump
Alex 74 16/May Lead O/S
with Dave m
clarendon 19/Apr Lead dog
with Nil
tom_lewis89 19/Apr Lead dog

Tired out!

with Maddy
edmundro 11/Apr Lead dog

Dogged a few times halfway up. Enjoyed the top. Loose and sketchy all the way.

Hidden 06/Apr Lead O/S
chris sm 05/Apr Lead

First climbing after 12 mths off through injury - sagged

with Damien ?
Sophie Nunn 31/Mar Lead rpt
with Alan, Brian
Monkey_Alan 31/Mar Lead rpt
How easy 14/Mar Lead
mdjb 08/Mar Lead
Mouse Matt ??/2015 Lead
Caveman_Dan ??/2015 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead β
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Half the blocks were marked with chalk crosses the other half were loose.

with Steph
Hidden 04/Nov/14 Lead rpt
armand_dude 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
clarendon 16/Sep/14 Lead
with Tris
Topsy Turvy 16/Sep/14 Lead
with Mike P
BoHeMlo 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really nice route but scary, especially the third bolt or so that is quite far from the lovely holders.

with Pete
NickSayers 13/Sep/14 Lead

fell once before completing

gary9t9 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dom
gary9t9 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
eroica64 31/Aug/14 TR dog
with Jim Neville
Ciderslider 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ciderspider 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
gary9t9 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dom
steve taylor 08/Aug/14 Lead
with Barry Clarke, marti hallett
drifterjoe ?/Aug/14 Lead rpt
shane4747 16/Jul/14 Lead dog
JUSTADUDE 16/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Shane
Hidden 25/Jun/14 Lead rpt
uncontrollable 24/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Enca
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/14 Lead dog
Trace 15/Jun/14 2nd dog
uncontrollable 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Trace
lazMo 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Murilo Lessa 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Hiannan
HaleAlex ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Joseph Bucknall
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead
Dave Page 31/May/14 Lead
with Lenaya Page
ConstaBern 31/May/14 Lead
Hidden 30/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead
jtree03 23/May/14 Lead
Hidden 11/May/14 2nd
How easy 11/May/14 Lead
Hidden 06/May/14 Lead
kieranbowen 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ruth
dee_mee_tree 04/May/14 Lead O/S
sbattams 04/May/14 Lead
stonemikey 19/Apr/14 Lead
Fatclimber 19/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Simon Horridge
SimonMarcYoung 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead rpt
cdpuk 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
drgrange 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Jenben 23/Mar/14 -
steve1234 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/14 Lead
jopayne1988 ??/2014 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
hlburns ??/2014 -
lukejb ??/2014 TR O/S
mickd 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Philoosh 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jasonpm 22/Sep/13 -
with Ian A
ewanjp 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Christian_S85 07/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/13 Lead
E30Adam 25/Aug/13 TR rpt
with Adam Cook, Simon Chadney
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead rpt
vic11092 14/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ben Padbury, Cara Borzych, Craig Conman
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Sam Moss ?/Aug/13 TR
with Misha, Jill Eccles
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Flippy 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Emma
jezb1 06/Jul/13 Lead

Quite steep and creaky

Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead
RioVista23 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Lee had lead the first two clips so I continued from there and finished the route. Lots of laybacks with one tricky crux.

leedjbutler 22/Jun/13 Lead
Jim-Roberts-1987 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S


with Hayley Gould
BenL 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 TR dnf
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
jayyaj 26/May/13 Lead
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead dog
Semtex 18/May/13 Lead rpt
with Matt
matt_read 12/May/13 Lead O/S
with Rick
el_monty 10/May/13 Lead rpt
with Zo
Boogs 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Scargs Caldwell
Semtex 04/May/13 Lead dnf
with Matt
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead
Mrabey ?/May/13 TR dog
ConstaBern ?/May/13 TR
rlellis1 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
ClemB 28/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead dog
gjh 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
martin one 06/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Sharon
ElBarto 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Good route, would say it's well graded though.

Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd dnf
adrianellis ?/Apr/13 TR dnf

Got pumped quickly after a long day, didn't finish.

with Rob Ellis
tomshanti 31/Mar/13 Lead rpt
with Andrew
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Mar/13 -
CallumSmith ?/Mar/13 Lead
JDG2428 ??/2013 Lead
homing-penguin ??/2013 2nd O/S

Lovely, sustained although the rock is suspect near the bottom

Jim Malo 30/Dec/12 Lead
with Putt
AgentStarling 18/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Took a fall above the third clip from the good holds, too pumped to think! Will get it next time.

with James Ellis
markfromstoke 21/Oct/12 -
with Norman
Monkey_Alan 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Norman_P_W 21/Oct/12 -
Jim Malo 29/Sep/12 Lead
with Putt
BenL 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
mike.rigby 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Hard for its grade. Very pumpy.

with Rob Edwards
Sophie Nunn 11/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Scott, Brian
brian watson 11/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/12 TR dog
tradguy 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Mark Hazell, philippa wiffen
Jordan17 03/Sep/12 Lead
jopayne1988 ?/Sep/12 -
Monkey_Alan 28/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with John Knight, Sophie Harbour
Graham Westbrook 17/Aug/12 Lead β
AndyCook 05/Aug/12 Lead
rustyfishhook 02/Aug/12 Lead dog

Strong upper body moves, holds are where you want them, nice!

martin one 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Lucy
Montecore 22/Jul/12 Lead dog

only 1 rest this time...

with Susan Kennedy
TiffTiff 01/Jul/12 Lead β
with Sophie
Nexonen 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Tiff, Sophie, Heather
Sophie Nunn 01/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Tiff
caroline256 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Tom B
sam_craddock 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
birthers 17/Jun/12 Lead β
RamblingRyan 17/Jun/12 TR
with Steve, Danny, Martin, Col
Sophie Nunn 16/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Scott
Albachoss 03/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Definitely fluttery at the top with skinny feet in a bunched position. Very nice moves.

Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead dog
gibsond 29/May/12 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 29/May/12 Lead rpt
jon_gill1 07/May/12 Lead O/S
MarkCunnington 07/May/12 Lead O/S
Montecore 21/Apr/12 Lead dog

Bastard steep.

BenLarby 21/Apr/12 2nd
Monkey_Alan 15/Apr/12 Lead dog

Got hands wrong, had to take a rest to sort them out.

tomshanti 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

awkward!tough for a warm up

Big Lee 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Felt pretty sketchy all the way up. Knocked a couple of small blocks off the route.

with Mick
chalk bunny ?/Apr/12 Lead dog
with ben l
E30Adam 31/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Simon Chadney, Ben Service
RamblingRyan 11/Mar/12 TR
with Gaelle, Steve, Sam, Nick, Col
98%monkey 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Sam Cartwright
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Feb/12 Lead rpt
mishtu 22/Jan/12 Lead
cathymiller 22/Jan/12 Lead dog
with krista
Bea 22/Jan/12 2nd
with Mishtu
Hidden ??/2012 TR dog
Nevil ??/2012 Lead
with Mike
Hidden ??/2012 2nd
Felix Ottey ??/2012 Lead O/S
RamblingRyan 27/Nov/11 TR
with Nick, Emma, Danny, Col
trevor macalonan 20/Nov/11 Lead dnf
with Richy
Montse Shelbourne 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Nathan
Gareth 10/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Mark
montymoo 10/Aug/11 Lead
with Gareth
pelvoux 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jon
tobydunford 27/Jul/11 Lead β
with Martyn Eales
brian watson 08/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with anne marie sheppard
Tony Adshead 01/May/11 TR O/S
Nathan Adshead 01/May/11 Lead RP
Elvis Nipples Ells 01/May/11 TR dnf

Tricky mid point section, keep and eye out for the left hand move next time.

rev01ver 01/May/11 TR dog
with Tony Adshead
el_monty 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Si
Ducks Rock 24/Apr/11 TR
with Gemma
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Shona H 28/Mar/11 Lead β
with Kirsty
AlexD 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Darren
Linc ??/2011 Lead O/S
nick jeans ??/2011 Lead
clipskipper 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Like the man says, mostly solid and a good route at the grade

with Sue Hazel
uncontrollable 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

lovely climb and the rock is way more solid than it looks!

with Des, Mark J
Indy Nile 09/Oct/10 TR dog
Vince 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with John Percy
tobydunford 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 26/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Aug/10 Lead dog
Monkey_Alan 19/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Darrell Gibson, Karensa Lawrie
gibsond 19/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Karensa Lawrie, Alan Blanchflower
Luky 24/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Dodgey stuff, 3rd bolt not easy placement, reckon there's another way around it.

Sami Mandeel 01/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Paul
Danh89 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
nath_casper ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Gerald
sdmi123 07/Mar/10 Lead
with Jonny Hurst, Barry Gilfillian
LeahJamie ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Mark Hathaway
LukeyG ??/2010 Lead
crispygts ??/2010 -
Ducks Rock ??/2010 Lead β
Ade7 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Liz
Hidden 15/Aug/09 Lead RP
marcduhig 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Did not flow

with Andrew
Giles Davis 03/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Indy Nile 05/Jul/09 Lead
DeclanMurphy 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S

I've come to love this route :) feels exposed and dangerous (it's not really - all the bolts are safe to make) This has become one of my favourite warm-up routes on the west quarry.

with Jo Tilley
chalk bunny ?/Jul/09 TR O/S
with Sarah Kaye
jamie ward 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jenny
Fatclimber 30/May/09 Lead

Stopped by the third bolt to have a good inspect of the rock. It is more sound than it seems.

with Kwan
DeclanMurphy 10/May/09 Lead O/S

One year later and I lead this one clean :) Not too difficult but still with plenty of opportunity to pull some nice moves.

with Francesco
KarlH 10/May/09 Lead O/S

Not as loose as it looks. Nice climb, defo a 5+.

with Phil, Matt L & Neil
MarkRyder 19/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Ashley
tavarua 05/Apr/09 Lead dnf
with Colin Cook
MontyH 21/Feb/09 TR
with Brian
Hidden 17/Feb/09 Lead dnf
Shona H 31/Jan/09 Lead

Bolts a bit dodgy at top.

with Charlie Moore
Hidden ??/2009 -
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
londondavid ??/2009 -
londondavid ??/2009 -
LukeyG ??/2009 Lead
DeclanMurphy 18/Jun/08 TR dnf

If this is the one I'm thinking of then I found it dodgy as fuck. Lots of potential cascading rocks. Got half-way up and thought "y'know, I don't really trust these rocks"

with Jamie
jamie ward 18/Jun/08 Lead RP

Had to stop a couple of times to inspect rock, More solid than it looks.

nick hawkins ?/Jun/08 2nd RP
with matt
timharrison 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Pete
tscoobydoo ?/Mar/08 Lead O/S

make sure balayer wears a helmet

Peter Swift ??/2008 TR dog
with tim
Peter Swift ??/2008 TR dog
with tim
trev_f 29/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Martin
tom_wim 27/Jul/07 Lead RP

Some loose bits of small rock but nothing major, will get better with more traffic, a nice climb.

Hidden 03/Jul/07 Lead O/S
aged_ape ?/May/07 Lead O/S
tobydunford 03/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/07 TR
Hidden 01/Jan/07 Lead O/S
jl 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Penny
pennyb 18/Nov/06 2nd
with Jon
Gareth 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Mark
montymoo 12/Nov/06 Lead
with Gareth
MontyH 14/Aug/06 Lead O/S

very loose in places,feels about 5 maybe 5+ but I found it pretty scary because of the loose rock.

with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
brian watson 01/Aug/06 Lead
with scott titt
Rob Kennard ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Rich153, Hidden
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
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Votes cast 34
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set