UKC

100m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The route line in the printed book is incorrect. The route starts up the line marked 10 in the printed book. Line 8 is the slightly harder route Smeagul.

An excellent and well-protected crack climb up the parallel crack system a few metres to the left of Gandalf. Thought by some to be better than its classy neighbour, offering more consistent climbing and no thrutchy wide bits.
1) N5, 40m. From the tip of a block, jam up the fine crack - tricky - stepping left once, and continuing to a sloping stance.
2) N5-, 40m. Continue up the same crack-line, passing a trickier section where the crack splits. Continue up thin cracks in the steeper wall above, on good holds, to a good sloping stance (shared with Tromsø ekspressen).
3) N5-, 25m. Step right, then access the right-hand side of a prominent flake, but move right to easier cracks and the top. © Rockfax

A Meyer, S Nesheim 1985.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50 , Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Drdavid1970 13 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rock fax book and app show the start of this climb going from the base of a T shaped crack to just right off the T. This is wrong! The crack doesn't allow finger jams and is lay back and the T hold on the right is a shallow half crimp.... tough and not the description and on the following link you can see the T crack is not on the route. https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/111006332_large_1494337596_topo.jpg?cache=1492873567
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rock fax book and app show the start of this climb going from the base of a T shaped crack to just right off the T. This is wrong! The crack doesn't allow finger jams and is lay back and the T hold on the right is a shallow half crimp.... tough and not the description and on the following link you can see the T crack is not on the route. https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/111006332_large_1494337596_topo.jpg?cache=1492873567

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Voting
High n5+
Mid n5+
Low n5+
High n5
Mid n5
Low n5
High n5-
Mid n5-
Low n5-
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sea Breeze

Grade: n5 ***
(Reinesvaet)

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