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East Ridge** D

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[Yup, still another 5 abs to go, 3 kb]250m, 11 pitches. IV+, Great granite crack climbing mostly 4c, last upper pitches are more like 3s. Hardest move 4c/5a. fantastic climb with spectacular views. Approx 11 pitches with descent by half a dozen abseils. Approach from either Torino or Cosmiques/Aig du Midi. Rock climb ascent should take 2-3 hours, rappel another 1-1.5hrs, then long slog walk back to Torino or Midi. Then return iring slog to either
Croux, Grivel & Ottoz. 29/Jul/1940

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Photo: Yup, still another 5 abs to go © IainMunro
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 60 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jul/14

Bivied on the glacier the night before near the Torino hut. I had an amazing nights sleep which sadly wasn't the case for Robby. Had a rather long walk in across the glacier to the foot of the route involving traversing under some small seracs and a gnarly step over onto the rock. Set off with some enthusiasm but swiftly ended off route up some hard jamming cracks which led to a quick debate followed by an abseil retreat.
MPSBunny - Lead dnf - 21/Aug/13 with Robby Pineda

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/13

To the top of the difficulties after going up the wrong route originally.
chris687 - Lead - 14/Aug/13 with Gareth Steel, Jo Sumner

Jo sumner - 2nd - 14/Aug/13 with Chris Andrews

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/13

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 13/Jul/13 with Bern Hardman

Walked from aguille du midi early cable car, easy walk down across col du midi. Overtook one group on climb. Stayed in taccon hut after. We were last group down, and every other group got ropes jammed and were helped by following groups. Kept abseils short and were careful to avoid jams.
MichaelGallimore - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Bern hardman, Nigel

Hidden - 2013

Tobias at Home - 2013

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 26/Aug/12

Direct start beneath seracs which were quite threatening and there was a lot of debris where we geared up. Start from E Face was impossible due to deep rimaye. Rappel down the route is tricky due to shallow angle and most raps were kept to 0m to avoid rope jams. Great route but longer than expected. Slog back to the Midi is a complete ball buster.
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Misha Gopaul

Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with steve(friend of james wilson), james wilson

Wils - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Steven Broadhurst, Ewan Russell

Rope got stuck three times on the abseil down.
Merlin - 2nd - 21/Jun/12 with Mark Patterson

mark88 - Lead - 21/Jun/12 with Merlin Andrew

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/11

Awesome climbing.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Robert Taylor

benclimbing - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Dave Latimer

HarryB - AltLd - 15/Jul/11 with Will

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jul/11

Had to bail at the slabby pitches as climbing in big boots
catemuir - 2nd dnf - 15/Jul/11 with Tom Mansfield

Hidden - Lead - Jun/11

Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 2011 with Liam Ingram

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/10

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10 with emily

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/09

Great climb. missed the last cable car and ended up sleeping in the station toilets.
david0811 - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Mark Reid

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/09

barksmo - 2009

Slabby pitches were too much in big boots. It also started to storm half way up.
riven - 2nd dnf - 30/Jul/08 with Tom

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/08

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/07

Bristoldave - AltLd - 2007 with douglas

We didn't do last pitch--full of snow
alicia - 2nd - 23/Aug/06 with Tobs

missed last two slabby pitches cos of too much snow and not wanting to miss the last cable car....
Tobias at Home - Lead dnf - Aug/06 with Alicia

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/06

Great! A bit slow, so finished at dusk _just_ below the summit. Interesting long abseil descent to our tent at the bottom.
andybuckley - AltLd - Aug/06 with Tom Whipple

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jul/06

gripped01 - AltLd - Jul/06 with Dave Tait

Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/05 with Sion Brocklehurst

Hidden - Lead - Aug/05

andyinglis - AltLd - Jul/05 with neil adams

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Andy Inglis

stokesrees - Lead - 1996 with Ryan Brown

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - Aug/95 with Kieran

Found route easy and fast in ascent but got rope stuck twice on abseil descent. Gaston strikes again!
Pete_Frost - AltLd - 07/Aug/91

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/90

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/89

Rob Kennard - 1986 with James Dunlop

John Marsland - 1982 with Eduardo Martinez

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
stanleynkk, Joe Barlow, Will Gordon, dannyW, kurtc, Hidden, Timo Austino, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 21
hard D+0 of 11
D+0 of 11
easy D+1 of 11
hard D2 of 11
D8 of 11
easy D0 of 11
hard D-0 of 11
D-0 of 11
easy D-0 of 11
3 Stars10 of 10
2 Stars0 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead10 of 60 (16.7%)
Followed7 of 60 (11.7%)
Alt Leads36 of 60 (60.0%)
Unknown7 of 60 (11.7%)

'Climbed'35 of 60 (58.3%)
clean O/S19 of 60 (31.7%)
dnf6 of 60 (10.0%)