250m, 11 pitches. IV+, Great granite crack climbing mostly 4c, last upper pitches are more like 3s. Hardest move 4c/5a. fantastic climb with spectacular views. Approx 11 pitches with descent by half a dozen abseils. Approach from either Torino or Cosmiques/Aig du Midi. Rock climb ascent should take 2-3 hours, rappel another 1-1.5hrs, then long slog walk back to Torino or Midi.
Then return iring slog to either

Croux, Grivel & Ottoz. 29/Jul/1940

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Hidden 10/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/15 2nd
onlyfoddington 05/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

A very pointy peak. Not too hard but good fun with the exception of some terrifying crevasses to navigate after finishing.

with Andy
davkeo 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Brilliant day in great situation. Climbing was just great start to finish. Lovely cracks on sound rock and never hard. Did a beauty of a direct crack on pitch 3 which was sublime.

cearbhalld 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 17/Jul/14 AltLd
MPSBunny 21/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Bivied on the glacier the night before near the Torino hut. I had an amazing nights sleep which sadly wasn't the case for Robby. Had a rather long walk in across the glacier to the foot of the route involving traversing under some small seracs and a gnarly step over onto the rock. Set off with some enthusiasm but swiftly ended off route up some hard jamming cracks which led to a quick debate followed by an abseil retreat.

Hidden 21/Aug/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 15/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/13 Lead
Jo sumner 14/Aug/13 2nd
garethsteel 14/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/13 Lead
Nigel Bond 13/Jul/13 AltLd
with Bern Hardman
MichaelGallimore 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Walked from aguille du midi early cable car, easy walk down across col du midi. Overtook one group on climb. Stayed in taccon hut after. We were last group down, and every other group got ropes jammed and were helped by following groups. Kept abseils short and were careful to avoid jams.

with Bern hardman, Nigel
Hidden ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
Hidden 26/Aug/12 AltLd dnf
Stuart Johnston 15/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Direct start beneath seracs which were quite threatening and there was a lot of debris where we geared up. Start from E Face was impossible due to deep rimaye. Rappel down the route is tricky due to shallow angle and most raps were kept to 0m to avoid rope jams. Great route but longer than expected. Slog back to the Midi is a complete ball buster.

with Misha Gopaul
Ewan Russell 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with steve(friend of james wilson), james wilson
Wils 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Merlin 21/Jun/12 2nd

Rope got stuck three times on the abseil down.

with Mark Patterson
mark88 21/Jun/12 Lead
with Merlin Andrew
Hidden 21/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Liam Ingram ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome climbing.

benclimbing ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Dave Latimer ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
HarryB 15/Jul/11 AltLd
with Will
Hidden 15/Jul/11 AltLd
catemuir 15/Jul/11 2nd dnf

Had to bail at the slabby pitches as climbing in big boots

Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead
Roberttaylor ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with emily
Hidden 28/Aug/09 AltLd
david0811 15/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Great climb. missed the last cable car and ended up sleeping in the station toilets.

with Mark Reid
Hidden 14/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
SWalls 16/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jul/09 2nd
barksmo ??/2009 -
riven 30/Jul/08 2nd dnf

Slabby pitches were too much in big boots. It also started to storm half way up.

with Tom
Hidden 12/May/08 AltLd O/S
tebs ?/Aug/07 AltLd
with Sci
Hidden 13/Jul/07 AltLd
Bristoldave ??/2007 AltLd
with douglas
alicia 23/Aug/06 2nd

We didn't do last pitch--full of snow

with Tobs
Tobias at Home ?/Aug/06 Lead dnf

missed last two slabby pitches cos of too much snow and not wanting to miss the last cable car....

with Alicia
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
andybuckley ?/Aug/06 AltLd

Great! A bit slow, so finished at dusk _just_ below the summit. Interesting long abseil descent to our tent at the bottom.

with Tom Whipple
Hidden 29/Jul/06 AltLd
gripped01 ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Dave Tait
Smelly Fox 09/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Sion Brocklehurst
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead
andyinglis ?/Jul/05 AltLd
with neil adams
AdamCB ?/Jul/05 -

With Tim and Rick

Neil Adams ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/99 Lead
stokesrees ??/1996 Lead
with Ryan Brown
Daniel Wrightson ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Kieran
Pete_Frost 07/Aug/91 AltLd

Found route easy and fast in ascent but got rope stuck twice on abseil descent. Gaston strikes again!

with Stuart Turnbull
Hidden 01/Aug/90 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/89 AltLd O/S
Rob Kennard ??/1986 -
with James Dunlop
John Marsland ??/1982 -
with Eduardo Martinez
Hidden ??/1981 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, kingjam, stanleynkk, Joe Barlow, Will Gordon, dan wisey, kurtc, Hidden, Timo Austino, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High D+
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Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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