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|Hautes-Alpes > La Grave >|
|Mini Moulins|| WI4 |
<< L'Etoffe du droite
Les Moulins >>
|230m, 5 pitches. WI4+
Vallee de Malaval
P1: 30m. 75 degree wall then 60 degrees to small tree that is miraculously still there despite being in the line of fire of avalanches. Not equipped.
P2: 60m. Up snow then 60 degree ice then snow to bolt belay on right.
[Note: The avalanche cone can bank out almost the entire initial 75 degree wall on P1, in which case P1 is a 20m to the small tree or 60m up ice and snow then belay at the start of the 60 degree ice of the normal P2].
P3: 50m. Beautiful stepped ice flow, incl short 85 degree section. Bolt belay on left.
P4: 50m. Snow then 75 degree ice easing off to snow straight up to belay on the rock between the two final 90 degree ice sections. The belay is two rusty pegs connected by 2m of tat to a bolt. Can also belay slightly lower on right at tree (tat and maillon).
P5: 30m? Belay? 8m of 90 degree ice either side then easy ground. Often not well formed.
Descent: abseil from each belay stance.
This climb is in 11 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jan/13
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jan/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/11
creag - Jan/11 with Gary Tulloch
Hidden - 29/Jan/09
machars - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/09 with Eric Herring
ericinbristol - AltLd O/S - Jan/09 with Graeme Barr
FrankW - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/05 with Lou, Iain H
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/04
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/04
Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd O/S - 21/Dec/01 with Godfrey Perroux